Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums engine-management/Bee*R Rev Limiter Wire up.
Imported from Z31Performance.com Forums{{#if:Rahlude92| — original post by Rahlude92}}{{#if:2012-10-07 09:54:41|, posted 2012-10-07 09:54:41}}{{#if:21| · 21 post{{#ifeq:21|1||s}}}}{{#if:/Z31performance_archive/forum/z31-performance-upgrade-forums/engine-management/19487-bee-r-rev-limiter-wire-up.html|
Local archive: view archived thread on dev.z31library.com}}
Rahlude92: (2012-10-07 09:54:41)
Hey guys, I bought a Used Bee*R unit from a guy on ebay the other day, and through countless searches and attempts, I have finally figured out the configuration if anyone would like to know or correct me if im wrong!!
Bee*R wireset
Red = 12V (Accessory for stereo)
Black = Ground (Ground for ecu)
Yellow = Rpm signal - I used pin 17 (G/B) which is the 120 deg C.A.S.
Green = Ignition signal - I used pin 8 (G/Y) which is the 1 deg C.A.S.
White = 2 step switch (Ground signal) Can be wired to ebrake or regular switch that grounds out signal.
At first, I had the green wire to the 120 deg and the yellow to the 1 deg, but it would not start. This is the basic setup for our Nissans in general. But as the result of a lot of researching, I found that if it does not work with that setup up, usually it mean the green and yellow Bee*R wires are backwards, and BOOM works like a charm id say.
Another point!!! I believe that since our vehicles are single coil, we have to cut and insulate the Gray loop wire as if we were setting up the unit for a 4 cylinder. Normally for 6 cylinder engines, you would leave it intact. But this unit is mainly used for coil pack ignition systems. The brown loop wire needs to remain intact. If anyone has any more information on this or see's any flaws with my setup please let me know! Hope this helps out my Z fam out there!
G-E: (2012-10-07 10:25:39)
I have benedict's and he never cut the gray loop… I haven't decided if I'll put it in the vg or the rb car…
Mitchd03: (2012-10-07 15:41:57)
Holy shit I have one of these thats been sitting in my drawer for nearly 2 years.
Hehehehehehehehehe :nanan?re
Also, I'd wire the 12v to the ECU Power, since its pointless being on whenever the ECU isn't.
Rahlude92: (2012-10-07 16:24:04)
Well for me it really didnt matter for the 12V. As long as its on while the car is running. Its not that big of a draw at all. And it really only activates at your desired rpm =)
Rahlude92: (2012-10-07 16:25:56)
Did Benedict have a write up on his installation in a Z31? If so, can you send me the link or the steps he took?
Careless: (2012-10-07 16:27:41)
didnt butter mention something about being convinced these kill motors too, somehow?
Axel kain: (2012-10-07 23:22:03)
Ive only heard mention of them beating on turbos…
Careless: (2012-10-08 00:30:03)
and if a compressor wheel bounces around in the housing- where do the fins end up? lol
Rahlude92: (2012-10-08 06:10:36)
O i wont be bouncing it off the limiter like that. Traditional Ignition cut is safer that fuel cut so that's a bonus. Usually people that frag their motors by using this, sit on it all day and night. For kicks. Just look at the SR20 forums. They say these blow up motors…why? Wouldn't that mean any other aftermarket launch control would do the same?
Krolik: (2012-10-08 06:37:53)
also interested in any more info on wiring this bad boy up. my z is dying for me to install mine
really tired of coming across so many threads on these things asking how to wire them up and they ALL end up on the topic of blowing the motor up.
Mitchd03: (2012-10-08 10:01:49)
Friend of mine smashed a few of the rockers on an SR20 with a Bee*R limiter, blamed the limiter.
Put new rockers in, removed the limiter and sold it, put in an Apexi ECU with adjustable limiter, smashed some more rockers later on.
The only reason a Bee*R will break your engine is because you will want to sit on limiter for hours.
Rahlude92: (2012-10-08 11:44:10)
Well what i did to hook up my setup is uptop. Im going to wire in the 2 step switch later on this week and let you guys know how that goes.
Krolik: (2012-10-28 04:57:40)
it's been working fine with how you wired it up? did you cut the gray loop?
300ZX_John: (2013-11-13 04:33:50)
I'm bumping this thread because my Bee*R limiter has been giving me hella problems. When I hook it up as per this write-up, my car won't start, and if I swap them, well, watch the video. The limiter is set to 2500rpm and you can see my 200SX does whatever the fuck it wants instead.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201968546929574
Butter: (2013-11-13 14:15:55)
I've warned people away from these countless times, but in the end, people will buy what they want to buy. So many dudes out there with popped motors because they want to make backfiring sounds. I have a Crane HI6R on one of my cars, and it makes cool gunshot sounds while gently maintaining a rev limit. Oh, but wait, that's one of those 'Murican parts. No JDM HJ's there.
300ZX_John: (2013-11-13 23:22:35)
Yeah because the Bee*R unit is nuking motors, not the user. >_> Also a quick search shows that the Crane HI6R system (CDI box and coil) is between $250-360 (on eBay) whereas the Bee*R unit can be had from $180-250. Something that not all of us need. All I want is a nice ignition cut, not some super upgraded ignition when mine is completely fine as it sits.
Butter: (2013-11-14 13:47:06)
You don't need the coil. You just need the box and 6000-8910 to run the tach. Any of the HI6 family with adj rev limit that work with optical trigger will do. You can find these used all over the place for under $80. They almost never break.
michaelp: (2013-11-14 22:58:14)
I've been looking at different options for spark cut rev limiters as I prefer spark cut over fuel. Bee*R was never even considered because I've heard of too many causing broken engines. I've looked into entry level MSD boxes as well as Crane etc.
jaqattack02: (2013-11-15 15:44:37)
Wait, just so we're clear here… The risk of blowing up your motor is worth around $100 to you? Why not spend the extra $100 just to avoid the possibility that it is the Bee*R that's causing all the problems?
Rahlude92: (2013-11-16 23:17:19)
If they both do the same thing…spark cut instead of fuel cut....wouldnt it be user error instead? And yes it works fine for me, I dont bang off of it all the time at all, rarely actually. I mainly got it because I was not able to get nistune so I could tune the stock fuel cut rev limiter recovery to be quicker. I use the bee*r as my rev limiter, so if im going sideways and the hx35 is at peak boost, and tires roast, the rev limiter wont bog my rpms down and cause me to hook and spin out. I dont do it for the bang bang lol, I actually have it at a pretty low setting. So it takes a good little bit for it to bang bang
G-E: (2013-12-03 21:32:34)
Soo can anyone tell me why my post was deleted?