Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums driveline-aa/Na2t new clutch slip…
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zmyz?: (2012-06-19 03:41:14)
I know it would have been a good idea to get my hands on a stronger clutch but I just did not have the cash. But I did have a new na oem replacement exedy that I had bought a few years ago to put in. I just finished the na2t on my 88 at the 55k original mile mark, while I was at it I replaced the front and rear mains, cam seals, new timing and water pump, along with the new clutch. I was hoping it would work out for stock boost with a t3 considering the 84 to 86 used the same clutch, but it slips at less than 1/2 throttle when boost starts kicking in. Usually around two to four pounds… I am being easy on it until broken in, but geez is this normal? I'm really hoping that once I do 500 to 1k miles it will stop but I'm worried. I adjusted the clutch throw to make sure the new slave wasn't partially engaged, the clutch master is not leaking, and the flywheel was fine. Do yall think I have a bad pressures plate, or the clutch just needs time? I'm outta ideas and so is the shop owner/best friend that kindly helped…
michaelp: (2012-06-19 04:01:52)
Drive it for a while and stay out of boost, DO NOT slip it. Take off from a stop with as little slipping as possible. Report back in ~500-1000 miles, it should be better.
zmyz?: (2012-06-19 04:06:47)
^ makes me feel a little better… Will do, and im trying to stay around 20lbs of vaccum for mpg… When I replaced the clutch in my supra turbo it never slipped… Is this a common occurance?
NissanEgg: (2012-06-19 04:09:41)
You didn't get one of those cheap made in China clutches did you? If so, that clutch is garbage and will fail.
zmyz?: (2012-06-19 04:17:37)
Exedy… Don't know where it's made but I put one in my supra with 15lbs of boost, and a friend has one in his conquest. Neither have/had problems. If any one of my other vehicles goes I still plan on exedy because of the track record Ive seen so far. Has anyone heard of problems with exedy?
michaelp: (2012-06-19 04:25:48)
Exedy is fine…lol
Had this issue with someones DXD clutch, just drove it and eventually it held.
zmyz?: (2012-06-19 04:48:23)
Oh and don't know if it's relevant but when slipping it doesn't smell at all… Kinda strange when I got my ram new the clutch smelled like shit for weeks… And it was not slipping… So the dealer said?
Dave@SBC: (2012-06-26 14:45:30)
FYI, Exedy has posted a 'warning' in their boxes to beware of knockoffs. People on Ebay are putting Chinese parts in Exedy boxes and selling them as such. Read the bottom of their site http://www.exedyusa.com/.
There is a break-in, 300-700 miles on a stock clutch. Break-in is progressive and gets better with time. You also may be overpowering the clutch. You should have bought a stock 240mm turbo clutch kit. Fits the same as the non-turbo kit, but has more clamping force. We don't actually sell the non-turbo kit, every 240mm clutch that goes out our doors is the turbo kit. Even if someone orders the stock replacement. Cost isn't much different and it's a better part.
zmyz?: (2012-07-11 22:02:49)
Well I got the kit from a forum member a while back… And before my na2t plans… I'm around the 400 mark and I can feel it getting better, for instance I pulled out in front of someone today and they were going waaayyy faster than I thought. Well I got a bit of a wheel and stayed a little past half throttle through 3rd… Seemed less prone to slip…
zmyz?: (2013-03-21 02:55:15)
Well it's been several months since I last posted about this. She's still slipping, I even pulled some timing so there would be less power and it still slips! I'm well over the 1k mark and I'm fed up… I'm not sure what I'm going with in the next round but I have been researching. I think where I went wrong was not having the flywheel resurfaced? I just cleaned it up and degreased it.
Ive been looking into new clutches and I'm thinking ill pick up a 350z kit from exedy. I've seen kits for around 200-250
http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-NSK1000-…z+exedy+clutch
ive also been tempted to pick up an f1 6 puck and give it a try? But that's the cheap bastard route 150+
http://www.amazon.com/Non-Turbo-F1-R…00zx+f1+clutch
then there are a few others such as, 225
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/html/300zx.html
Axel kain: (2013-03-21 03:51:36)
just to see, bleed the slave cyl a bit, as in, use one hand, or channel locks to squeeze the slave cly/fork compressed, and open the bleeder a bit. I had to do this to my 85 when I put the new clutch/trans in, as I noticed the pedal didnt feel right, and it was slipping.
but I found this cured my issue…
NissanXRMA: (2013-03-21 04:06:05)
Did your pressure plate look like it had a lot of hot spots? Did you check it straight edge for flatness? Might as well resurface it the next time to be safe.
zmyz?: (2013-03-24 21:16:54)
I had to replace the slave when I did all the work, bled it and all but it couldn't hurt to look into more bleeding? Also the PP clutch disk, bearing and slave were new… And no I did not take a straight edge to the fly or PP. probably should have.
Careless: (2013-03-24 23:16:19)
even a china knock off clutch would be able to take 1/2 throttle under normal driving conditions.
Axel kain: (2013-03-25 03:42:19)
I mentioned the bleeding, as it didnt feel right - more so as it also didnt operate right. I cant remember if it was slipping, or not easy to shift. but I remember suspecting the slave of "jamming up" is the best way to put it.
Shuman47: (2013-03-29 21:54:05)
Make sure your pedal is adjust properly, and not partially engaging. If the pedal feels really good and solid, it's probably too solid. I set mine to have slight travel before it starts engaging because I had that issue after I replaced the master cylinder because it was slipping.
That being said, my original clutch slipping problem was caused by a gummed up master cylinder no allowing the clutch to fully engage. it would barely even cycle fluid because it was full of this grey gunk. Replaced master cylinder, flushed the entire system thoroughly, bled system, set pedal adjustment, and have enjoyed happy times at full boost ever since.
Careless: (2013-03-29 22:08:21)
the pedal adjustment specs are in the FSM if I recall. something like 20mm of play on initial foot-in.
G-E: (2013-04-07 20:16:48)
I had this grey gunk you speak of too....
millsaps: (2013-04-08 00:33:32)
pedal might not be adjusted properly. make sure there is some slack in the pedal it could not be releasing all the way
Careless: (2013-04-08 11:04:44)
that's what happens when someone leaves the cap unsealed for an extended period of time in the spring, when it's nice and rainy/moist (or mixes it with other oiley fluids). lol. best thing to do is actually blow the line out with compressed air to get it all out.
zmyz?: (2013-04-13 04:58:35)
Adjustment to the pedal throw was one of the 1st things I did after the new slave… All the way both ways and then back to where the clutch starts to engage after a bit (maybe an inch or two?). Slipped all the way through the process.
just to make sure everyone is on the same page,
new clutch & pp
new slave cyl
new clutch master cyl
adjusted pedal throw
and bled the system
I think I screwed up when I did not resurface the flywheel? And the set up I have dyno'd 212 hp on the car I pulled the parts off of… So unless I gotta knock off exedy or a fluke in production I should have been ok with hp/tq on the stock stuff?
G-E: (2013-04-14 00:13:55)
Did you scuff the flywheel at least? You can get away without resurfacing keeping in mind that break-in will take months then but still happens eventually
862sik: (2013-04-14 07:51:12)
Did you even clean your flyweel and not have oil on it? The slip can be contamination.
Hell with it, get a DXD and call it a day. It still uses a excedy disc, but is much stronger. I dont even race or track my car. I just got tired of crappy clutches, shelled out the last of my unemployment and purchased this clutch and never looked back.