Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums engine-mechanical-aa/The VG33E information thread
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88sinZ: (2009-07-20 21:46:10)
Maybe the time is right, i've seen quite a few vg33 threads popping up in the past few months. How about we get this going?
The official unofficial VG33E information.
This was created to solve the problem of little information and many myths regarding the SOHC VG33E. As many are still unaware of all the differences this motor has compared to other variations in the VG engine line up, this thread and following post will build on the growing knowledge of understanding differences and modifying the VG33E. The following is to my current knowledge, over time I hope the forum members and moderators can both add to, and help keep this in order while simple to read.
To start lets cover the models and years this engine was avaliable in. In some vehicles the 3.3L was an option.
In the USDM vehicles:
'96-'00 Nissan Pathfinder
'97-'00 infinity QX4
'99-'04 Nissan Frontier, '01-'04 supercharged avaliable
'99-'02 Nissan Quest & Mercury villager
'00-'04 Nissan Xterra, '01-'04 supercharged avaliable
Visually the VG33E besides a few components is idential to a VG30E. There are mostly minor location differences of components, routing of lines, and electronic components that visually set the VG33E apart, though these minor differences can be worked around by using parts from other VG's.
Basic information, intake manifold down to the heads:
Getting a little more in depth lets talk about the intake and fuel related pieces, the VG33E uses the upper intake manifold found on earlier pathfinders and quest that used the VG30E. The lower intake manifold is similar to the VG30E's as well being able to use most of the 3.0's upper intake manifolds, the coolant neck found on the 3.3's lower intake houses two sensors though it is similar to some of the 3.0's does not function as a filling location like some 3.0 designs, but it shares the same flange design and bolt pattern so it is able to use many variations. The fuel system is similar to the later +'87 3.0's using side feed injectors, though the seals are of larger diameter and different design. The injector design found on the 3.3's are junk and impossible to find high flow rate injectors for, you might as well junk them.' (NOTE: the VG33ER injectors are rated around 320cc, which is a little step up from the 260cc found on VG30ET making them useful, this requires use of the 3.3 lower intake manifold.) The locations to bolt the fuel injectors down is much lower on the 3.3's lower intake manifold, other differences are the 3.3's intake manifold lacks a coolant temp gauge sensor and coolant tube on the rear passenger side some of the 3.0's used, the rear coolant tube has different routing than most 3.0's, again the flange and bolt pattern is similar to the 3.0's so swapping tubes is simple. Port diameters (~36mm) are similar as well as head to manifold coolant passages, and will line up with any VG30 head casting. Worth noting is the thermostat housing is angled slightly differently, while using the same diameter thermostat as 3.0 housings.
The heads specific to the 3.3 are known by casting reference "OWO". Visually they are very similar to the 3.0's head using 13 head bolts, the main difference being the 10mm exhaust studs. The exhaust studs can easily be rearranged to suit your header choice using a TORX socket.
Internally they share parts with the 3.0 specifically the rockers, lifters, lifter guide, valve and valve spring locks, retainers, valve stem diameter, height, and ultimately - layout. The 3.3's valves can be identified by their casting "EF-3". The valve stem diameters, guide diameters, and seat angles are the same between the 3.3 and 3.0. Both the intake and exhaust ports have a much smoother casting than the 3.0's V52, 21V, and 85E heads. Head bolt locations, water passages, and oil galleys are similar though there are slight differences in the water passages they will not interfere with swapping 3.3/3.0 heads to ether block though I would advise against 85E or 21V heads onto a 3.3 block due to the water passage being close to the combustion chamber more so than the V52. A major difference is in the camshaft found in the 3.3, the 240/244 .354"/.354" cam is good for low end grunt but not that great for high RPM power. The 3.3's camshaft is commonly swapped out for 3.0's camshafts for better high RPM performance, aftermarket 3.0 cams will also work. Another difference that is very important to note is the camshaft sprockets, the 3.3's sprockets use a round tooth style compared to the 3.0's more squared tooth style, the matching crank gear must be used.
Basic information, bottom end and rotating assembly:
Lets start with the engine block. Again the 3.3's block can be identified by an "OWO" casting on the front driver side. Many of the locations to bolt up engine brackets, and accessory brackets are predrilled and tapped making the use of other 3.0 pieces an easy affair. The block to bell housing pattern is also the same as 3.0's making many transmissions available. What makes the 3.3 a 3.3 is the bore of 91.5mm, the stroke length is shared with the 3.0 at 83mm. The pistons are cast like other VG's having a compression ratio of 8.9 (non-SC) and 8.4 (SC):1 they also have the OWO imprint along with valve reliefs and a slight bowl to the center. The connecting rods, again stamped with "OWO" are similar to a 3.0's the difference being the notches at the bottom. The 3.3 rods are also similar to the later 3.0's floating wrist pins found in the "W" series engines.
The crankshaft is cast sharing the same main and connecting rod journal sizing system as the 3.0's. The crankshaft also shares the six bolt flywheel pattern found on 3.0's making many quality clutches available. The major difference between the 3.3's and 3.0's crankshaft is the snout, the 3.3's has a larger diameter and must be used with the matching 3.3 oil pump and pulley. The 3.3's oil pump also is the mounting location for the oil filter and oil pressure sensor, the pumps pickup is also closer to the center line and has a taller mounting location than 3.0's pick up location this may require modifying the oil pan per-application. A common discussion is drilling the block for an oil feed location when adding a turbo, the motor I picked up from a '96 Pathfinder did not require any drilling as it only has a plug. The oil filter location was rumored to not clear when mounted in a Z31, my set up with a 1" antiswaybar, z31parts.com poly engine mounts, and intact power steering lines clears with plenty of room for a larger filter.
Accessories:
The 3.3's crankshaft pulley is delicate, and prone to chipping/cracking use caution when removing and handling.
The 3.3's pulley is special, it has a 32mm center bore, and has variations in belt style and routing per-model. Early pulleys use a rib-rib-V, late pulleys use rib-rib-rib belt routing. The easiest way to over come this issue is to keep or aquire the associated brackets and accessories that come with the engine, though this may interfere with simple intake and intercooler pipe routing on those who choose to use turbochargers. There is also the option to swap in a 3.0 crank and use the 3.0 pulley and accessories this also involves using the 3.0 oil pump and using the Quest style 3.0's oil pump that side mounts the oil filter like the 3.3's, or simply using the 3.0's oil filter stud from other variations to relocate the filter. That's the most of my knowledge concerning this topic, personally I'm still unfamiliar with mix matching brackets and pulleys, as I've previously sourced a setup from a Frontier.
There is much more information and examples yet to be shared, the basic information posted is a start in the right direction to document the knowledge in an effort to centralize it. If you would like to add information your self please keep it organized and easy to read.
If you're planning to swap a VG33E in place of a VG30E the swap is pretty straight forward as long as you keep an eye on the subtle differences and an open mind to solve simple problems. There are many others out there that know much more about this engine than myself, I am looking forward to any additional information, corrections, or pictures.
I will be back to edit this I'm sure!
Texas_Ace: (2009-07-20 21:51:32)
I just got finished doing my own VG30et to VG33et swap. I went the rought of swapping in a VG30 crank with mine, IMO this is the best way to go by far. This makes everything totally bolt in and easy to do.
Otherwise everything else is pretty much what i found as well.
Careless: (2009-07-20 22:12:17)
I'll be posting pics come wednesday. That's when I'm assembling my bottom end.
I'm using the VG30 Water Pump and having a spacer made between the damper and the timing gear on the VG33 snout, then I'm having the center of the VG30 balancer bored out and the key-way heightened to accomodate the increased bore size.
The rotating assembly was balanced today, and I'll be putting it back together on my day off on Wednesday. Hopefully a couple of extra hands visit and help me out.
I'm going to have to locate my rat-tail files too for the piston ring gap.
gilzman: (2009-07-20 23:44:13)
You forgot the Paliden
The Nissan Paladin is a SUV manufactured by Zhengzhou Nissan Automobile Co., Ltd. and is sold in China only. It is active in the Paris Dakar Rally during these years. The Paladin uses the same chassis and running gear as the first generation Nissan Xterra sold in the United States.
nismo kid: (2009-07-20 23:56:10)
Sticky this!!!!!!!!!!! :!:
gilzman: (2009-07-21 00:09:06)
links too. FSM here
96 pathfinder
http://www.xenonz31.com/files/1996%20Pathfinder.zip
Some Villager FSM…
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/quest/
Xterra
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/
Texas_Ace: (2009-07-21 00:16:07)
I got a complete write up of my swap i am working on right now that shows how i did my swap with a VG30 crank, i have it posted on another board now but could post it here as well if ya'll want.
Sorry don't mean to thread jack, got an account here because someone on youtube recomended this place and i saw a car being parted out i could use some parts off of. Noticed this thread and said "cool i just did that too". lol
gilzman: (2009-07-21 00:32:23)
I would at least like to see a link..post!
bunches of pics
http://search.aol.com/aol/image?s_it=rb … -pic&flv=1
Good pics in this write up
http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showtopic=15422
timing belt replacement
http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a … 1010906731
roastin300: (2009-07-21 19:44:10)
Some success stories to provide inspiration for the swap would be great. It is a larger displacement but it would be cool to hear personally from those that have completed it how much more power they have acheived with the VG33 over the VG30. Im trying to convince myself that i want to do this swap.
Also are the stock VG33 pistons and rods capable of the same amount of power as the stock VG30? Are they as meaty?
Careless: (2009-07-21 21:06:14)
I think so, they are all W stamped.
gilzman: (2009-07-22 00:49:06)
I asked someone with a 98 QX4 to pop the hood and let me take a look. Interesting looking plenum and TB. I was looking at the vacuum diagram under the hoop and it shows a MAP sensor. Do other vg33e cars have that?
88sinZ: (2009-07-22 01:26:28)
some 3.3's used a MAP sensor along with a MAFS
gilzman: (2009-07-22 01:28:57)
Anyone ever use a QX4 ecu in a z application?
Texas_Ace: (2009-07-22 02:04:06)
For anyone that is interested here is my writeup to me swap:
http://z31performance.com/showthread…highlight=VG33
Warning, LOTS of pictures, NOT 56k friendly! lol
Allout: (2009-07-22 02:05:23)
Is there enough meat in the VG30 balancer to bore out and re-key?
Careless: (2009-07-22 03:26:45)
looks like it.
still deciding whether it's the right thing to do. I think I'm going to order another crank gear and use the old one as a spacer and have it milled down to proper size. easier than making a spacer from aluminum stock.
Careless: (2009-07-31 02:49:20)
New info.
Z31 Waterpump will work on VG33 with the Z31 pulley using the VG33 Crank Pulley. The Z31 uses a larger pulley by the looks of it, but I think it will be ok to use on the VG33.
The Z31 waterpump has a longer snout than the VG33. However, the VG33 waterpump pulley is a center-flange style, while the Z31 pulley is a frontal-flange style. What I mean is that the VG33 waterpump pulley has it's mounting surface smack dab in the middle of the inside diameter of the pulley. The Z31 has it's mounting flange on the outside edge of the inside diameter of the pulley. So no matter which pump you use, as long as you use the pulley that it came with, it will work.
The VG33 Balancer is a 32mm centre bore. A Z31 pulley is a 28mm centre bore (I think, haven't measured but it looks around there). The belt styles are different in that the 84-87 Z's came with a Vbelt style pulley end for the power steering setup. The 88 and 89 came with a ribbed pulley, I believe (Correct me if I'm wrong).
Using the 88-89 ribbed power steering pulley should allow the use of the VG33 balancer with the appropriate belt.
Another alternative that I will be looking into once a friend gets back to me is using the KA24E Pulley. It is a 30mm centre bore, and that is large enough to have it bored out 2 mm and have it re-re-keyed 2mm deeper along the inside of the key-way. I would do this with the Z31 pulley, but it does not have enough meat to do so… well it does, but the pulley extension (or snout, whatever you wanna call that elongated portion of the pulley) will have the keyway cut so close that it will be too thin. It WILL crack there, and you will wobble your crankshaft to death and spin your front bearing easy.
It looks like the belt positioning is the same for the KA and the VG33 pulleys too, and the rib numbers are the same too. I had my rotating assembly balanced without the balancer or the flywheel so that in the future if I can find a better pulley to use, I can swap them as long as they are 0 balanced.
As soon as I find someone with a spare performance KA pulley that I can look at locally, I'll give it a test mount if the price is right to have it rebored and keyed.
Quest VG33
OBX KA24DE
[archived image: 10477-1-4.jpg]
[archived image: 10477-1-3.jpg]
Not sure if I would go with OBX. It might be ok as long as I have it balanced.
88sinZ: (2009-07-31 03:12:51)
I should have snapped a picture when i swapped to a 3.3 water pump, but from what i remember it was the 3.3's WP that was longer. I couldn't back up the above comment, but will be interested how it works once you're up and running. My w-series WP and crank pulley had 4 ribs while the 3.3 WP and crank pulley has 5 ribs.
About the PS pulley, the bracket, pump design, and shaft diameter are all different than the 3.0 style.. So that part i'm still going to have to figure out. Note: my PS pulley came off a 4x4 frontier so it may be a little beefier/
I have to remember we are comparing two different pulley designs though, which is a good thing!
Careless: (2009-07-31 03:28:51)
[quote]88sinZ wrote:
New info.
Z31 Waterpump will work on VG33 with the Z31 pulley using the VG33 Crank Pulley. The Z31 uses a larger pulley by the looks of it, but I think it will be ok to use on the VG33.
The Z31 waterpump has a longer snout than the VG33. However, the VG33 waterpump pulley is a center-flange style, while the Z31 pulley is a frontal-flange style. What I mean is that the VG33 waterpump pulley has it's mounting surface smack dab in the middle of the inside diameter of the pulley. The Z31 has it's mounting flange on the outside edge of the inside diameter of the pulley. So no matter which pump you use, as long as you use the pulley that it came with, it will work.
Using the 88-89 ribbed power steering pulley should allow the use of the VG33 balancer with the appropriate belt..
I should have snapped a picture when i swapped to a 3.3 water pump, but from what i remember it was the 3.3's WP that was longer. I couldn't back up the above comment, but will be interested how it works once you're up and running. My w-series WP and crank pulley had 4 ribs while the 3.3 WP and crank pulley has 5 ribs.
About the PS pulley, the bracket, pump design, and shaft diameter are all different than the 3.0 style.. So that part i'm still going to have to figure out. Note: my PS pulley came off a 4x4 frontier so it may be a little beefier/
I have to remember we are comparing two different pulley designs though, which is a good thing!
Hmmm, I may just run the car without power steering to get it to my parents house then. Not a far drive. only 20miles or so. I still have the 3.3 water pump and the old 3.0 water pump that i replaced with a new one (which i took off the 3.0 and then put on the 3.3 today). And the 3.3 one is definitely the shorter snout. I will snap pics. I don't mind running thinner ribbed belts on the pulley with more belt ribs. Seems ok, seeing as my alternator has 5 ribs and my 3 rib belt spun that fine.
Maybe you should post pics of your oil sump tube and pan modification. I've got MAPP gas that I think I'm going to use to do that this weekend.
88sinZ: (2009-07-31 16:26:10)
pictures would be great to document
here's a link to the sump tube/pan modification
http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?4800
i used oxy/acet so i didn't have to wait so long, but MAPP should heat it up enough
Careless: (2009-08-01 01:22:55)
I think I'm going to fasten my old vg33 pump to my vg30 block to keep any metal shards or heat away from my new rotating assembly. I'll be doing that tomorrow, I hope. Then I'm pushing the vg30 engine aside to make room for more useful stuff
Raff
Careless: (2009-08-01 02:44:36)
More info.
Not sure if the VG33 Pathfinder oil pumps are the same oil-pump drive diameter as the Quests 32mm crank snout, or whether it will work on any VG33, but the area where the passenger side alterntaor bracket would mount on the VG30 is the same as the pathfinder oil pump. it sticks passed the pan rail.
The quest vg33 does not stick passed the pan rail, and has to be shimmed up. Not sure how to do that at this point but I'll figure something out. Perhaps just a spacer dowel that I can easily drill into the oil pump hole to slide this dowel in, and then put some washers behind it. not sure if it will be strong enough to torque an alternator bracket to.
I'll come up with something.
Raff
260DET: (2010-01-20 23:21:22)
Seeing this informative thread already exists I'll see if it revives although my interest is in swapping VG30DE/TT parts into a VG33 to build a bullet proof circuit turbo motor. Not a dyno queen, 450 WHP will do, but with a very strong performance from 3500 RPM up.
First thing, the block and how far it can be safely and conservatively bored out to. So I'm thinking maybe out to 3.4, 3.5 max? Will get the block checked to see how thick the cylinder wall are but thick walls add to the rigidity of the block, I don't want to compramise that too much.
So, who is a good source for forged pistons and who knows VG's and can do a set of pistons with the basic info of bore size and compression ratio required? Head gaskets, will OE ones be OK? They are for VG30DETT's but here there is an overbore to take into account. I'm concerned about the extra exposure the inside ring of the gasket will get with a significant overbore.
That will do for the moment, see how we go with the above.
ZFast88Z: (2010-01-21 01:48:57)
Wait, what? You want to use VG30DETT parts on a VG33? Thats not going to happen. LOL
If the block we used is an accurate representation of all VG33 blocks, 99MM is do-able for bore size. If your building a drag race engine, and fill the block with something like hardblok you could make serious horsepower out of the 99mm bore. If you want a street engine, I would recommend not going past 98mm.
Any piston manufacturer can do pistons for the VG as long as you have all the proper specifications they need.
Custom headgaskets have to be made to accommodate the larger firing ring necessary for the large overbore. We are using an MLS headgasket that was custom made for this application.
260DET: (2010-01-21 05:43:28)
Do you sell such gaskets?
zmainiac: (2010-02-06 02:28:10)
I sent a piston to weiseco to have forged pistons made for my 3.3l pathy motor. I can dig up the info if you need it. I ended up shelling out 900 though.
Careless: (2010-03-01 05:33:40)
They should be closer to 760 now. Unless aluminum prices went up a whole lot. I purchased pistons from someone who purchased them for 725 for two sets of RB30DET pistons.
260DET: (2010-03-01 10:12:57)
I'd appreciate any info that would help in ordering new pistons, going for a mild overbore now. No hurry.
Rick88ss: (2010-03-01 16:16:26)
I bought a set of BRC pistons for my VG33 about 3 years ago. They're 8.0:1 compression and the wrist pin fits TT Eagle rods. I think they were one size oversize.
If you need any info PM me.
cjr198car: (2010-03-01 16:58:47)
Can you use a 3.3 camshaft with 3.0 camshaft sprocket?
Im asking this question since I have a spare 3.3 engine and I would like to regrind the 3.3 cams and put them into my 3.0. Would it be counterproductive regrinding the 3.3 cams or does the original duration and lift not play into the outcome of regrinded camshaft?
Thanks for the responses!
-Colton
Texas_Ace: (2010-03-01 18:54:46)
Yes, you can use the either camshaft hears with either camshaft.
The gears have to match the crank you are using.
As for regrinding them, why start with 3.3 cams? unless you are building an NA motor?
gardner86zx: (2010-03-01 19:06:06)
you can get the round tooth crank gear for the vg30 crank.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19915
cjr198car: (2010-03-01 19:08:10)
Thats my question. Is there any disadvantages of regrinding a 3.3 camshaft? Are you implying that starting with lets say a vg30et camshaft will result in more lift or duration potential? Im building an NA engine with moderate nitrous use. If you can regrind the 3.3 camshafts to the same regrind offerings as the 3.0 camshafts then I would prefer to use the 3.3 cams since I have them out of the engine and I can send them to Isky whenever I want. I can also keep my car on the road this summer instead of dismantling my current engine and waiting for the regrinds to show up.
-Colton
Texas_Ace: (2010-03-01 19:19:21)
Frankly, i have never had cam's reground and am not totally up on what is possible with it so i am not the best one to ask.
cjr198car: (2010-03-01 19:27:31)
No biggie. Can anyone shed some light on my question with regards to camshaft regrinds?
Careless: (2010-03-01 19:45:32)
Yes, people turn them in for cores. you can buy the cams you want, send your cams back as cores.
_gh0st_: (2010-03-27 05:27:19)
I got a quick question, dunno if its already been answered elsewhere, i only looked around on the site for about 15 mins. I bought a z31 from a master technician at nissan. He said he swapped in the VG33, but im not entirely sure this is the case. How can I tell if its an actual VG33 or just an NA VG30? This would help save alot of time, as i have a VG30ET and was thinking about swapping all the turbo stuff to the VG33 (if it is one) and putting that in the car. Please lemme know, any help would be freaking awesome!
Mitchd03: (2010-03-27 10:23:54)
_gh0st_: (2010-03-27 15:30:19)
thank you! You have just saved me countless hours.
Careless: (2010-03-27 16:12:39)
right between the two cylinder banks, the VG33 has a "33' debossed (sticks out) casting on the last hump, where the transmission mates to, right,
right under the lower intake manifold, there is a knock sensor on the VG33's. you can use a mirror and a flash light to inspect to see if it's there. later vg30's may have that too. im not sure… it could have also been plugged.
the VG33 also has a block heater on the driver side, right over the rear transmission bracket hump at the back of the block. IM NOT SURE if vg30's have that because mine didn't.
the VG33 also has VG33 carved into the small machined surface at the edge of the bracket hump.
You can check all these instead of just one incase you can't really see the small carving.
_gh0st_: (2010-03-28 03:08:19)
i had to take steel wool and clear the gunk, but i found the little serial number carving. I was right, not a vg33. sadness.. oh well - was only $1200.
88sinZ: (2010-03-30 05:22:42)
i encourage you to read before posting questions that are answered in the first post
Geoffs89Pathy: (2010-04-18 06:48:22)
first post on this forum, bring back an older thread sorry… i have an 89 pathfinder with the VG30i (throttle body intake) TBI and i am building a VG33 to put in it.
i was planning on using my TBI intake on top to build a VG33i as it has been done before, that way i avoid any major wiring problems for the first time around.
i am now considering building the block to use the VH45 pistons (93mm) which would put it at a 3.4 liter. i would have to use VG30DE or VG30DETT rods for the bigger wrist pin diameter=same as VH45 wrist pin… and i would have to have the piston machined for clearance for the valves. the compression ratio would get bumped up to about 10:1 with these pistons.
my question is will the TBI be able to handle the job of the extra compression, and the extra 100mL of displacement…? like i said VG33i 's have been built and work well.
my other option/idea is to do the 98mm bore that was mentioned in the first page, and i would make use of the Titan's 98mm pistons. no VG rods match the wrist pin diameter so honing the DE/DETT wrist pins out slightly as well as machining the Titan pistons for valve clearance would be in order.
Same question. can/will the TBI be able to handle the .5 liter upgrade in displacement as well as the unknown CR ratio??? im guessing it to be about 10:1. .
thankyou for the help. 8)
information to help answer my questions:
my pathfinder is built for daily driving/4wheeling/rock crawling.
i staying NA no matter what.
im just looking for the best torque options that are capable for this build.
what type of fuel do i have to use for the 10:1 CR?
i also have some questions and coments on the cam shaft topic as well but i will let this be it for now.
Grr: (2010-07-19 04:27:10)
Update and some good info for everyone
I purchased a cheap ass Z32 underdrive aluminum pulley off ebay
this fit the vg33 perfectly, and has the same belt setup as a w-series pulley. This will work with all stock accesories no changes.
problems that need to be adressed, i have no PS so i cut the PS pulley off of it on the lathe, then machined the pulley flat on the front.
DONT FORGET TO DRILL AND TAP SOME HOLES IN THIS THING FOR A PULLER. I did and it took me almost 2 hours to get the god damn thing pried off of threre!
there were no timing marks, i used a protractor and ground them in with the edge of a file
the VG33 has a much longer snout than a z32. I wound up having to put spacers behind the bolt to get the pulley tightened down. I cut the snout off the stock vg33 pulley on the lathe. THen i also put a large washer on there as well.
The pulley will hit the collar on the lower cover of a VG33. I cut the collar off flush. It will also hit the lower most bolt on the cover. this must be removed
Stock alt/WP belt JUST fits, at full tight it is just perfect
Thanks to careless for posting the 32mm crank dimentions and the info for this!!
Grr: (2010-07-19 04:44:31)
Also, aside from the pulley thing posted above, the only thing i did to this motor to put it in the car was move the oil filter. I switched allt he external stuff, t-stat housing, manifolds, etc.
To put the oil filter in the stock spot, i installed the stud, and put a 1/2" galley plug in the bypass hole with some loctite. Then, in the stock filter location, there needed to be a bypass made to get the oil in the block. My oil pump had a solid pad for teh filter adapter. I was able to remove the oil pump, dissasemble, and port a trench between the two holes. This makes a nice bypass channel, and i was able to make a plate out of 3/8" aluminum to bolt on in place of the filter adapter.
Allout: (2010-07-20 06:37:25)
Are you sure on the Z32 pulley on the VG33? When I compared, there were depth differences between the placement of the belts. Not all 3 belts lined up IIRC. Here's the Z32 pulley that I was using which when laid up against a W series pulley was different.
[archived image: Pulley1.jpg]
Careless: (2010-07-20 07:51:01)
even if it requires modification or spacers, it's an easy way to get a lightweight crank pulley for this motor, which is scarce for W series motors as far as I've seen on here.
It may not be spot on, and Grr might be lucky because of his accessories he chooses to run, but it can be made to work with some creativity.
and yes we're sure its a z32 pulley. we bought them at the same time. his is a cheapo-ebay one that he didnt mind cutting up, and mine is an AMS race unit that I will be putting on.
even if it requires new belts and some mods- it was well worth the price to have on the shelf for when I get around to it. I can't see quest pulleys lasting long when being beaten on.
ShamWow: (2010-11-21 00:55:59)
Some Additional VG33 threads for your reading pleasure… Much of the same information is repeated/discussed in multiple threads.
Careless Build: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17666&hilit=vg33
Cuong (re)build: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21229&hilit=VG33
XenonZ31 VG33 swap/write-up (Texas Ace): http://www.xenonz31.com/vg33eswap.html
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17251&p=278604&hilit=+VG33#p27 8604
MotoIQ VG34 Build (Pathfinder):
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18598&p=197928&hilit=+VG33+cra nk+pulley#p197928
Pathfinder vs. Villager VG33:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13436&hilit=+VG33+crank+pulley
Pistons PN#/Info: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25142&hilit=VG33
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=22557&p=276896&hilit=+VG33#p27 6896
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20500&p=221885&hilit=+VG33#p22 1885
VG33 Heads (OWO Casting): viewtopic.php?f=1&t=22630&hilit=+VG33
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24546&p=276645&hilit=+VG33#p27 6645
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20633&p=257143&hilit=+VG33#p25 7143
General Questions/Info: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24879&hilit=+VG33
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25004&hilit=+VG33
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23776&hilit=+VG33
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21461&p=235569&hilit=+VG33#p23 5569
VG33 Oil Pump:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18966&hilit=VG33&start=36
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24175&hilit=+VG33
Turbo Oil Feed:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21590&p=235541&hilit=+VG33#p23 5541
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20779&p=225491&hilit=+VG33#p22 5491
VG33 Power Steering:
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18927&p=280376&hilit=VG33+cra nk+pulley#p280376
Round Tooth Timing Belt::
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19915&p=215599&hilit=+VG33#p21 5599
VG33 Crank pulley (using Z32 pulley?):
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7397&p=132362&hilit=+VG33+cran k+pulley#p132362
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18635&hilit=VG33
Jason84NA2T: (2010-11-21 20:44:21)
Stickied.
88sinZ: (2010-11-23 20:45:07)
this would be good to reference in this thread
How to:
VG33E with Quest 125A alternator
Z31T Oil Pan Modification for 3.3 oil pump
ShamWow: (2010-12-18 21:55:25)
What is the difference between Xterra and Pathfinder head gaskets for the VG33? Courtesy lists two different part numbers, and the cost differs by about $30.
If no one knows I will order both and report back.
Careless: (2010-12-19 02:17:17)
could it be that xterra's being supercharged have MLS gaskets? if so… booooooonus!
shromy: (2010-12-19 17:34:02)
The last ones I bought where for an 03 xterra, they are the same as any other stock vg head gasket. No clue on the pathy.
EDIT:
Figured this wouldnt be a bad thing to add. Courtesy's PN's
Pathy- 11044-r50001 $46.38
Xterra- 11044-WD22002, lists SC option. $23.23
Quest- 11044-V41001 $23.23
Frontier- 11044-D22U002, Does not list SC option though some are. $23.23
Careless: (2010-12-19 18:56:57)
probably just making money off the one that is sold the most :P
I bought a Quest one. Seemed legit. Looks exactly like a Z31 one only 93mm bores.
ShamWow: (2010-12-30 18:07:49)
VG33 Oil pumps:
Quest: 15010-V41001 $73.39
Frontier: 15010-D22U002 $79.18
Xterra: 15010-WD22002 $79.18
Pathfinder: 15010-R50001 $211.35
Does anyone know of any differences in the pumps? Cuong posted some pictures but they are currently down/broken links.
I have a hunch that the pumps may be different based on vehicles equipped with engine oil coolers. From what I can tell, the Quest does not use an engine oil cooler. The rest I am unsure of.
EDIT: Some additional Information here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18966&p=275008&hilit=+VG33+Oil +Pump#p275008
Grr used the Pathfinder pump and suggest it to be larger than the Z31 turbo automatic pump. Careless used the Quest pump, and has comparison pictures:
Frontier apparently is gear design. I'm guessing Pathfinder/Xterra/Frontier are all same:
[archived image: oil_pump.JPG]
Careless: (2010-12-30 23:57:30)
the pump you pictured there really is larger than the quest pump I have installed.
the quest pump maintains excellent oil pressure even with 5w30 oil, but flow numbers I can't predict.
I would go with whatever that one is- but be aware of the gear cracking like 1sickZ posted at one point.
It might pay to buy a oem pump, chamber the holes here and there, and then have the gears cryo treated or nitrided or both.
Gritt: (2011-01-16 16:28:37)
ok, so who has the resources to get the different pumps flow tested? wondering if you can make an inexpensive tester and bench test them at home…?
also. we know the 3.3 can be made into a 3.4. when doing this, can you still use the 3.3 head gaskets or do you need to go to custom gaskets at that point? i`m assuming at much more than stock bore you can`t use stock gaskets anymore but there seems to be a little room to play with.
ShamWow: (2011-01-16 17:26:28)
Gritt,
I will be testing the following pumps. Still awaiting the frontier pump from the dealership, ETA 2 weeks.
-Z31T Auto
-Frontier VG33
-Quest VG33
I have all the appropriate equipment and resources available at work. Stay tuned. I will make a new post when the results are ready.
Also, VG33 HG with VG34 conversion.
88sinZ: (2011-01-16 18:47:33)
[archived image: redface.png]uais! good stuff, keep it up mike
Gritt: (2011-01-16 19:55:28)
thanks for the info mike! i didn`t remember reading that about the head gaskets anywhere.
Gritt: (2011-04-22 14:54:05)
how is the flow testing going?
ShamWow: (2011-04-22 15:00:33)
Got tied up with conversion kit.. still planning on it, just got pushed back.
Will update when I learn anything new.
Gritt: (2011-04-26 00:53:08)
yeah, figured that when I kept looking around the other threads. nm. take your time
85NA2T: (2011-05-01 17:44:56)
Is anyone here with the vg33 using v52 heads with it?I read in the first post that it would be advised not to use the 21v or 85e heads but not v52's?
Careless: (2011-05-01 17:54:04)
v52's have the same steam holes as the OWO's don't they?
85NA2T: (2011-05-01 18:05:11)
That would be awesome because then I could just bolt mine on and not have to mess with the liters (hybrids).
michaelp: (2011-05-01 18:47:38)
I'd suggest using OWO heads, but you would probably be fine with the V52s.
85NA2T: (2011-05-01 19:15:14)
i just would prefer to use them as they are already built with my cams,lifters and springs.And i have ls1 locking exhaust manifold bolts.
aceman: (2011-05-01 20:07:41)
i have v52's on my 3.3, they work fine
85NA2T: (2011-05-01 20:10:26)
Thank you sir
85NA2T: (2011-06-22 03:37:22)
Further info,if using a 33 out of something with a front sump (quest), the dipstick must be moved.the hole towards the front of the block is used for front sump.there is just a plug in the hole that needs to be used further back that can be punched out.no drilling required.this may have been already covered but I had to take my oil pan back off because I did not realize this until I went to install the dipstick tube.
cuong nguyen: (2011-06-23 07:19:48)
Here's my photo album of the VG33 from an 03 Xterra motor with some comparison photos of my VG 3.0 from my 93 Pathfinder.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/cuongnutz/VG33/
Also, Here's NissanNut's website:
https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/nissannut.com/
https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/nissannut.com/ … index.html
Careless: (2011-06-23 07:26:14)
did you ever complete that thing?
cuong nguyen: (2011-06-23 17:38:16)
Not yet, still working on it.
Black 89Turbo: (2011-06-29 15:06:37)
Them links are beast! Props.
need4speed069: (2012-05-15 05:36:18)
I have a line on an 03 Exterra motor can someone tell me if my fidanza flywheel off of the 87turbo motor will fit on the 3.3 exterra motor?
Careless: (2012-05-15 06:05:01)
yes it will.
you might need to remove the spacer inside the crankshaft register (which is the part the flywheel slips over).
it doesn't come in contact with the flywheel at all- in fact it's on the inside of the part where the flywheel touches (where the pilot bushing goes), it's simply a spacer for flex-plate equipped automatic cars and it's blocking most of the hole for the pilot bushing.
PulseCode: (2012-12-25 03:14:56)
I wanted to share my experience with the VG33E swap. Very smooth process (Thanks to Z31P).
Particularly, I obtained a low mileage (22K) '02 Mercury Villager motor. My only minor issues were-
1). No turbo oil feed line drilled out in the stock location. I had a braided cable made and T-fitting.
Careless: (2012-12-25 03:23:21)
oil line looks great.
for your lower timing cover, put tape around the painted area where the large rim that goes behind the pull is, and start grinding down the large rim/backing plate until you get close to the first "step" in the rim. When you get to about that point, the z32 pulley will fit over it with about 1/8 clearance (depending on how accurately nissan spot welded the thing onto the rest of the cover).
If you don't do that, you wouldn't be able to run the z32 pulley as it will hit that round plate.
Other people should take note of this oil line modification! It will work on any SOHC VG motor with the right block adapter.
I don't think you'll be using that oil pressure sensor for the Z31. it uses a different sensor. You can take the plug out of the passenger side of the block, and put it where that sensor is for now. And then put the Z31 sensor back into the original location.
The T adapter is a good idea if you decide you want to use a mechanical gauge at some point to test oil pressure anyways.
PulseCode: (2012-12-25 03:27:56)
2). The alternator required some thick washers (three I think) for spacers. No pics shown.
3). The power steering pump required being moved forward about 1/2" - 5/8" for the belt
to line up with crank pulley properly. I carefully notched out 1/2" from the P/S body with the
thinnest cutting wheel I had on my angle grinder shown in background. Then I reused the
notched out metal piece as a spacer behind the P/S pump and the belt lined up right.
PulseCode: (2012-12-25 03:40:20)
The only other issue I ran into was not being able to bolt up the stock clutch radiator fan. I ran different scenarios in my head
about what kind of adapter might be made but, I don't think it's worth the hassle when I have a Nissan electric fan and shroud
given to me for free. This swap was just what I needed to help me cement the basics of engine operations in my mind. Other
than the NA2T swap about two years ago I have had ZERO experience in this area. I want to thank all who helped me with
this project on my daily driver. Specifically- Careless, Michael P, Shromy and 88sinZ. Thank You very much for your contribution!
PulseCode: (2012-12-25 03:43:58)
Yes, Thank You, Raff (Careless). the lower timing cover had to be ground down to remove
the circular rim that sticks up. Other than these minor issues everything went very smoothly.
Careless: (2012-12-25 03:46:11)
I did the same for my power steering pump, but I used a nylon 3/8 spacer on the back because I ground down the pump rather than cut the piece out.
Also, you will need to acquire a 4 rib belt, and cut one rib off with a very sharp exacto knife. I've done it plenty of times, and you can't even tell the difference (unless you used the villager pulley? I never bolted it up, i think it has 4 ribs).
PulseCode: (2012-12-25 03:49:17)
Yes, the small details I did not mention but, important. Installed pic.
Careless: (2012-12-25 09:09:41)
niceee
glad to see it finally done.
88sinZ: (2012-12-26 18:56:49)
Congrats, pulsecode
Augustus Maximus: (2013-02-10 00:10:47)
What was this ever done?
MADMIKE: (2013-03-12 21:11:51)
Careless- concerning your usage of the z32 crank pulley, what Alternator did you use with that? Standard z31 alt bracket I imagine.
88sinZ: (2013-03-24 04:40:58)
that info was in some deep threads, maybe PM him
Can anyone come up with the pic of a 3.3's connecting rod? JW
Careless: (2013-03-24 04:57:48)
350z alternator, modified kouki bracket. any alternator with multi-rib- 3, 4 or 5 rib, will work. you just have to space the alt keenly :-)
88sinZ: (2013-03-24 20:17:44)
I remember there being physical differences
Careless: (2013-03-24 21:31:37)
not between a W Rod, I dont think.
PulseCode: (2013-04-24 02:46:46)
My VG33E engine swap was done several months ago. BUT, the stock clutch fan would not bolt up to the water pump. So, I amalgamated the stock clutch fan hood with a Nissan single fan (from something) and a sheet of textured ABS plastic to finish out the project. It is wired in with a switch presently but, I'd like to hook it up properly with the themostat switch. Is this what I need for my particular install? Thanks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-Fan-S…ht_1490wt_1161
millsaps: (2013-04-24 03:01:27)
find out what temp the thermostat opens and hold a temp then go to summit they sell inline ones for cheap. get it about 10degrees colder than operating temp.
PulseCode: (2013-04-24 03:02:48)
Colder or hotter? Shouldn't the fan operate 10 degrees above operating temp? The link in the last post has variable temperature control. Thanks.
Careless: (2013-04-24 03:29:54)
the hayden fan switch will work.
do you have the a/c condensor fan still in front of your radiator?
PulseCode: (2013-04-24 10:41:13)
Yes, Thanks.
Careless: (2013-04-24 11:10:19)
i was going to say that you could remove the condensor fan switch from the rad and put a sentra fan switch so it turns on at 189 degrees instead of 192, and use that as the circuit to drive your fan (which also is fused to 20amps inside the car), but i think you'll have to get a hose adapter instead.
THEBEAST: (2013-08-18 22:00:26)
vg33e from a 96 pathy, is it considered interference or not? the pistons are notched for the valves. the compression is 8.9:1. a guy broke the timing belt on his 2000 frontier, I realigned the timing, put a belt on and it was good to go. this might have been mentioned in the thread already, but im too lazy to read thru 7 pages.
turbomike: (2014-01-18 21:16:05)
What type of mounts were those? Did you buy or make them?
amreboot: (2014-04-14 05:38:27)
Thread has been re-stickied
amreboot: (2014-04-14 05:46:32)
I am going to add my build information to this thread…
I swapped the VG33 from a totaled 2004 Frontier.
Here is what the motor is using:
VG33 OWO Built Heads (13-15% increased Nissan springs, Schneider 270h Turbo Cams, 1mm+ Valves, De-Burred Ports)
VG33 Custom Forged Pistons by ROSS Racing
VG33 Stock Forged Rods
VG33 Crank
VG33 Crank Pulley
VG33 Timing Belt Setup (Round Tooth)
VG33 Auto Oil Pump (more volume output than VG30ET auto pump)
VG30-Z31 Lower Intake Manifold
VG30-Maxima Custom Gutted Upper Manifold
VG30-Z31 Turbo Exhaust Manifolds
VG30-Z31 Turbo Oil Pan (modified)
VG30-Z31 Oil Pick-up Tube
VG30-Z31 Water Pump (with VG33 Water-Pump Pulley)
VG30-Z31 Thermostat housing assembly (including hard waterlines for it and radiator cap setup)
VG30-Z31 Power Steering (bolt-on)
VG30-Z31 A/C Compressor (bolt-on but had to position the A/C compressor 1.25 inches forward)
VG30-Z31 Turbo Alternator Bracket w/ 2005 Nissan Titan Alternator (150AMPS)
VG30-Z31 Motor Mounts
VG30-Z31 Stater
VG30-Z31 Turbo Detonation Sensor
VG30-Z31 Oil Pressure Sender (take the bolt plug out and move it to the factory location of VG33 on Pump)
VG30-Z31 Auto Turbo + VG33 Oil Filters (Dual Oil Filters w/ Turbo Auto Oil Cooler)
88sinZ: (2014-04-23 05:06:38)
the hayden fan switch will work.
do you have the a/c condensor fan still in front of your radiator?
Bro, no Sentra temp switch recommendation?
It's a simple install with a X thread to X thread (sorry over my head ATM) and closes circuit at ~189ish
Works great with my dual Maxi setup + 170 thermostat
88sinZ: (2014-04-23 05:10:16)
I am going to add my build information to this thread…
VG30-Z31 Turbo Alternator Bracket w/ 2005 Nissan Titan Alternator (150AMPS)
VG30-Z31 Auto Turbo + VG33 Oil Filters (Dual Oil Filters w/ Turbo Auto Oil Cooler)
My frontiers Alt is starting to shrug on heavier loads - might have to look into that Titan Alt
I would be interested to see if the dual filter setup provides much benefit besides piece of mind - the 3.3 "side mount" filters immediately after the pump
Augustus Maximus: (2014-06-30 11:15:58)
What do you guys do when you're stuck with the long oil filter bracket that comes with VG33's from the Quest or Xterra. Apart from sourcing the desired Pathy (short) version by shelling out big bucks at the dealer or JY diving (and I'm sure a lot of them won't will let you dismember the motor), what can be done. I'm going to try this if I'm unable to find one.
a spin on filter bypass with the lines going to my oil cooler. The oil filter will go back to the Z31 stock location. Thus converting the VG33 oil filter location into an oil cooler send/ return port.
amreboot: (2014-06-30 13:28:02)
You can't use the Xterra type VG33 oil bracket. You will not be able to install/remove the oil filter without always dropping your stabilizer bar.
Been there, tried it.
You need the pathy filter bracket.
michaelp: (2014-06-30 16:38:19)
You can't use the Xterra type VG33 oil bracket. You will not be able to install/remove the oil filter without always dropping your stabilizer bar.
Been there, tried it.
You need the pathy filter bracket.
Pretty sure Alex Via is running the Quest one, which is longer than the Xterra....
amreboot: (2014-06-30 16:42:40)
Pretty sure Alex Via is running the Quest one, which is longer than the Xterra....
Okay?
Well again, I tried with the one from my 04 Frontier vg33, I could not get the oil filter on/off without removing stabilizer.
BLOZ UP: (2014-06-30 23:16:57)
What's the difference on the VG33 vs VG30 water pump pulley?
amreboot: (2014-07-01 01:30:59)
What's the difference on the VG33 vs VG30 water pump pulley?
The VG33 pulley is smaller in diameter and has a different offset that is more forward than the VG30.
VG30
VG33
Rustspecs13: (2014-07-01 11:28:07)
Okay?
Well again, I tried with the one from my 04 Frontier vg33, I could not get the oil filter on/off without removing stabilizer.
Ive used quest engines exclusively and had no problems with a variety of oil filters.
Josh hensley (quicksilver s/n) has a quest engine as well with no issues and his MSA swaybars.
Sounds like there are 4 different oil filter housings and 2 or 3 of them work.
Also with the water pump differences, the 3.3L's have a smaller ID so you can't put a 3.3 pulley on a 3.0 water pump if I remember right. Not 100% on that but you can't exactly mix and match them. One way they don't fit and the other way the pulley is sloppy and doesn't run centered/true.
~Alex
Augustus Maximus: (2014-07-01 12:19:16)
The VG30 water pump and it's pulley will line up…the VG33 water pump and it's pulley will line…they cannot be mixed and matched. They have different offsets that when paired with the pulley that is specifically designed for each pump, the belt lines up. I did the test with both pumps and pulleys.
michaelp: (2014-07-01 14:33:57)
The Quest 33 WP pulley has smaller bolt spacing too.
stufferton: (2014-07-01 14:57:03)
I don't remember seeing the reasoning for it, but why not just run the 3.3 WP? Is there a particular reason you guys aren't just sticking with the pump it came with?
BLOZ UP: (2014-07-01 16:38:59)
I'm using a 3.3L water pump with the 3.0 pulley, seems to line up fine with my Z32 crank pulley. God this is a mutt of an engine. I just need to get the alternator/alt. pulley out by an inch or so to match. Where's the alternator go on the Pathfinder/Frontier/Quest?
Black 89Turbo: (2014-07-01 23:12:41)
…
Attached Files
0620141040.jpg (99.0 KB)
88sinZ: (2014-07-02 06:41:19)
i tried pointing out the differences in water pump design a while back, discussed it a little with Careless. Yes the waterpump is different, and pump+pulley compatibility is an issue - the combination should be retained.
As far as the oil filter location, I'm running 1" ST swaybars, Z31P engine mounts, and a pathfinder oil filter mount with standard filters and their is no interference issues with changing the filter or torsion/deflection.
88sinZ: (2014-07-02 06:44:59)
I'm using a 3.3L water pump with the 3.0 pulley, seems to line up fine with my Z32 crank pulley. God this is a mutt of an engine. I just need to get the alternator/alt. pulley out by an inch or so to match. Where's the alternator go on the Pathfinder/Frontier/Quest?
Some run them on what would be the Z31's driver side, but most quest/etc alternators will mount up with some mounting/tension bracket mix up and modification into the stock location (passenger side).
True, they turn into mutts.. but they work!
Augustus Maximus: (2014-07-02 20:18:49)
I'm using a 3.3L water pump with the 3.0 pulley, seems to line up fine with my Z32 crank pulley. God this is a mutt of an engine. I just need to get the alternator/alt. pulley out by an inch or so to match. Where's the alternator go on the Pathfinder/Frontier/Quest?
If the crank pulley and water pump line up, the alt should also line up since they are all in the same line. Get rid of the 3.0 pulley and use the correct 3.3 version.
I just mounted all my belt driven accessories…PS pump needed 3/8 to 1/2" forward, alt tension bracket took a few washers…done! This is with a Quest pulley BTW.
BLOZ UP: (2014-07-02 22:29:07)
If the crank pulley and water pump line up, the alt should also line up since they are all in the same line. Get rid of the 3.0 pulley and use the correct 3.3 version.
I just mounted all my belt driven accessories…PS pump needed 3/8 to 1/2" forward, alt tension bracket took a few washers…done! This is with a Quest pulley BTW.
So, the 3.3 pump works fine with the 3.0 WP pulley, as far as I can tell. I haven't pushed the crank pulley (aftermarket Z32) all the way back but I measured the difference between the innermost (closest to the timing gear) pulley (the one that lines up currently) and the middle pulley and compared it with how much further the entire crank pulley needs to go and they're both 22.4 within 0.5mm or so. I'm afraid if I push it all the way on I'll never get it off. It's a cheap aluminum eBay pulley with no real puller mounts.
Anyway, the alternator is still 22.4 mm back. If the crank is bolted on all the way, the alternator belt will fit on the innermost crank pulley (pulley race?). The water pump will be on the the middle pulley. Since I have no way to tension a water pump only belt, I'm moving the alternator forward that 22.4mm to use the middle pulley.
michaelp: (2014-07-03 02:10:35)
So, the 3.3 pump works fine with the 3.0 WP pulley, as far as I can tell. I haven't pushed the crank pulley (aftermarket Z32) all the way back but I measured the difference between the innermost (closest to the timing gear) pulley (the one that lines up currently) and the middle pulley and compared it with how much further the entire crank pulley needs to go and they're both 22.4 within 0.5mm or so. I'm afraid if I push it all the way on I'll never get it off. It's a cheap aluminum eBay pulley with no real puller mounts.
Anyway, the alternator is still 22.4 mm back. If the crank is bolted on all the way, the alternator belt will fit on the innermost crank pulley (pulley race?). The water pump will be on the the middle pulley. Since I have no way to tension a water pump only belt, I'm moving the alternator forward that 22.4mm to use the middle pulley.
Not always true. Quest 3.3 water pumps aren't compatible with any pulley except the Quest 3.3 pulley.
sprtcrazy17: (2014-07-03 11:49:34)
So, the 3.3 pump works fine with the 3.0 WP pulley, as far as I can tell. I haven't pushed the crank pulley (aftermarket Z32) all the way back but I measured the difference between the innermost (closest to the timing gear) pulley (the one that lines up currently) and the middle pulley and compared it with how much further the entire crank pulley needs to go and they're both 22.4 within 0.5mm or so. I'm afraid if I push it all the way on I'll never get it off. It's a cheap aluminum eBay pulley with no real puller mounts.
Anyway, the alternator is still 22.4 mm back. If the crank is bolted on all the way, the alternator belt will fit on the innermost crank pulley (pulley race?). The water pump will be on the the middle pulley. Since I have no way to tension a water pump only belt, I'm moving the alternator forward that 22.4mm to use the middle pulley.
This is what I did for pathfinder 3.3, also to note my 3.0 pulley wouldn't fit onto the 3.3 WP I have
I took the Z31 alt bracket, cut and weld one of the back ear to move it in, made a spacer+longer bolt and tossed it on. Also did away with the tensioner bracket as it was causing issues.
BLOZ UP: (2014-07-03 18:32:29)
This is what I did for pathfinder 3.3, also to note my 3.0 pulley wouldn't fit onto the 3.3 WP I have
I took the Z31 alt bracket, cut and weld one of the back ear to move it in, made a spacer+longer bolt and tossed it on. Also did away with the tensioner bracket as it was causing issues.
I tried cutting the alternator bracket but my HF cutoff motor wasn't having it. That would have been the easiest. Now I'm jury rigging one of the spacers for the Frontier idler pulley brackets as a new alternator mount that I'll weld to my engine mount.
Augustus Maximus: (2014-07-16 18:28:11)
Here's my take on it… taken from 1999 Quest
[archived image: DSCF5099_zps93055abd.jpg]
Closer look
[archived image: DSCF5101_zpsfad84059.jpg]
As you can see, Quest water pump and pulley. The alternator with it's wider pulley allowed the belt to line up without the need to modify the mount.
88sinZ: (2014-09-24 04:29:09)
Please, for the sake of simplicity and to keep misinformation down
RUN MATCHING ACCESSORY SET UPS
Allout: (2014-10-07 05:36:38)
Please, for the sake of simplicity and to keep misinformation down
RUN MATCHING ACCESSORY SET UPS
I agree with this statement and this has been a struggling point for me in this conversion. I really don't want to build a mutt that requires you to keep a specific build list whenever you need to replace a part.
My project has been put on hold and I was just jumping back into it after a few years. As I read through this thread, there are a lot of creative people that have done fabrication work arounds. I think there are two issues to keep in mind when dealing with the crank pulley/accessories on the VG33 conversion. 1) what is your skill/fabrication level and 2) What is your current accessory setup. I'm trying to avoid the fabrication route.
As far as a starting point, I was just looking at the Z31 wiki on Harmonic Balancers. The table really breaks us down into 3 configurations that I can distinguish.84-86 NA - Running accessories using all V-Belts 84-86 Turbo - Running accessories on 2 V-Belts and 1 Micro-V for the Fan/Alternator 87-89 NA and Turbo - Running all Micro-V belts
http://z31.com/wiki/doku.php?id=reso…monic_balancer
[archived image: Z31-Harmonic-Balancers.jpg]
When I broke it down this way, I found that there are easy solutions for two of the three configurations that are bolt on and don't require a lot of fabrication skills.
For configuration 1, the 84-86 NA - Running accessories using all V-Belts, I found that the Pathfinder guys have figured out a clean fix. I found this build thread which also has some great info:
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/for…pathy/?hl=vg34
The Harmonic Dampener in the 90-95? Pathfinders uses a bolt on pulley assembly on a hub that bolts onto the crank. I pulled this off of a 90 Pathfinder at Pick-A-Part this weekend.
[archived image: IMG_1936.JPG]
[archived image: IMG_1935.JPG]
So I contacted Mr.510 and found that he's produced a crank pulley adapter for the Pathfinder guys that bolts directly onto the VG33 crank snout. This seems to be my best option for a clean and easy bolt on conversion to minimize the "mutt" factor. This combination works for all of us starting with 84-86 NA's which includes anyone that did an 84-86 NA to Turbo conversion. With this adapter hub along with the bolt on pulley I found this weekend, one conversion issue is now gone.
[archived image: 2012-06-15_00-18-19_569.jpg]
He also sent me a picture of a prototype crank pulley that would take care of guys with configuration 3 - 87-89 NA and Turbo - Running all Micro-V belts. He said this fits the multi-rib belts of the Z31, S12, and Infiniti M30 and that this pulley is currently on his friend's "M33". I was considering going this route since I like this single piece conversion crank pulley. It's a nice piece of work and I believe he has a batch that heâll be fabricating soon.
[archived image: IMG_20131020_203328_454_zpsefa4c7a3.jpg]
I was pretty excited after trading a few emails with Dave - Mr.510 and thought I would share what I've learned over the past week. Between these two items that he has available, it removes some of the anxiety figuring out the crank issue on the conversion if you're like me and want to maintain some level of the original car's integrity.
Allout: (2014-10-18 06:36:45)
Well I ordered one of the VG33 adapter hubs from Mr.510. This piece is very well made! I just mounted the stamped pulley to the adapter hub and compared to a stock pulley.
[archived image: IMG_1944.JPG]
A shot of the back:
[archived image: IMG_1946.JPG]
Hereâs a shot of this setup next to a A/B Turbo pulley:
[archived image: IMG_1954.JPG]
[archived image: IMG_1951.JPG]
Note that the pulley diameters are the same so no worries about under/over driving the accessories.
Also, thereâs a significant weight difference between the two:
- Stock Crank Pulley = 7.1lbs
- Adapter Hub with Stamped Pulley - 3.3lbs
A 3.8lbs reduction = 53.5%
88sinZ: (2014-10-26 03:35:02)
that's pretty dope
ozzyrulez: (2015-02-15 22:05:08)
So I thought I would share my pulley/belt configuration on my VG33. My VG33 is from a Frontier. I stuck with the VG33 crank and crank pulley. I also used the VG33 water pump and pulley. When I bolted up the power steering pump I found if I put on the Frontier power steering pulley on the Z31 pump it lined up perfectly with the water pump and middle crank pulley. So that left me with the alternator. I pulled one of the tensioners from the Frontier, honestly I'm not completely sure which it is since they were removed months ago. However with a little grinding and bending I was able to get it to mount up to the block and 350Z alternator perfectly. The 350Z alternator pulley lined up perfectly with the rear pulley on crank.
Now the fun part was finding belts. The power steering/water pump belt was pretty easy. I used a 460K5. It is a bit tight to get onto the pulleys but works great. The alternator belt was a bastard. Took 4 trips to various part stores to get one that worked. Honestly I would like it to be about 1/4" shorter but it does work and tensions nice and tight, it is 335k5.
I've heard that you can't use VG30 accessories with the VG33 crank. Seemed to work A-ok for me.
Axel kain: (2015-02-16 04:46:10)
Excellently done!! lots of great info!
ZEricMZ: (2015-02-17 21:58:05)
So just a quick question, started to get flustered while I was searching through multiple threads on what to order. Using a 96-2000 Pathy VG33, would I use the Engine Coolant Temp sensor for the VG30 with the single tab that comes off the top of the sensor or would I use the VG33 temp sensor?
amreboot: (2015-02-17 22:10:47)
Use any and all sensors that come with the vg30/z31.
ZEricMZ: (2015-02-17 22:25:26)
Alright, thanks Alex. My shopping cart is correct then =p
ozzyrulez: (2015-03-11 19:52:20)
Just wanted to update that I have a little over 150 miles on my pulley and belt setup and no issues have arisen at all.
BLOZ UP: (2015-03-12 15:37:32)
Heh. Matching accessories.
Frontier VG33
Z32 hitty eBay crank pulley, with custom made 11mm crank spacer.
VG33 Water Pump
Z31 Alternator with fabricated tensioner and mount.
Brought out the belt so it's not hitting my shitty water inlet pipe anymore. Which means I can replace that stupid thing at some point.
ozzyrulez: (2015-03-12 16:34:14)
One belt to rule them all! I'm kind of jealous of the one belt thing lol.
ZEricMZ: (2015-03-22 20:32:03)
Alright, got confused from reading multiple threads again so I have two main questions I need help with. Heres the situation.
1) I'm in the middle of VG33 build and I ordered a Gates Timing belt (Square tooth) and I am using VG30 cams with square tooth gears. As I understand, the crank snout size differences from VG30 to VG33 are 28>32mm meaning I can't use a square tooth timing gear from Z31. I couldn't find any information from online sources other than all VG33's from 96-02(I think?) were round tooth style. Will I be forced to have the Z31 Sq. tooth timing gear on the crank "bored out" for lack of a better term to 32mm to run my Gates Sq. tooth T belt or are there 32mm crank timing gears that are square tooth out there off of other VG33 vehicles that I have overlooked?
2) After the crank timing gear issue is resolved, I have the problem of lining up the timing gear marks in line with the VG33 oil pump as the VG33 pumps don't have the timing dot on them to align with. For those running VG33 oil pumps, did you guesstimate as close as you could with the VG30 oil pump mark and then mark it on your VG33 pump?
amreboot: (2015-03-22 23:41:38)
Alright, got confused from reading multiple threads again so I have two main questions I need help with. Heres the situation.
1) I'm in the middle of VG33 build and I ordered a Gates Timing belt (Square tooth) and I am using VG30 cams with square tooth gears. As I understand, the crank snout size differences from VG30 to VG33 are 28>32mm meaning I can't use a square tooth timing gear from Z31. I couldn't find any information from online sources other than all VG33's from 96-02(I think?) were round tooth style. Will I be forced to have the Z31 Sq. tooth timing gear on the crank "bored out" for lack of a better term to 32mm to run my Gates Sq. tooth T belt or are there 32mm crank timing gears that are square tooth out there off of other VG33 vehicles that I have overlooked?
2) After the crank timing gear issue is resolved, I have the problem of lining up the timing gear marks in line with the VG33 oil pump as the VG33 pumps don't have the timing dot on them to align with. For those running VG33 oil pumps, did you guesstimate as close as you could with the VG30 oil pump mark and then mark it on your VG33 pump?
1) - If you want to use the square tooth crank gear, you either swap to the vg30 crank or bore out the gear like you mentioned. ALL VG33s have round tooth.
I personally run the round tooth because its a design improvement over the square. The timing belt replacement intervals for the VG33 is 100k where the VG30 is 60k.
If I was you, return or sell the Gates belt and go Nissan OEM for the round tooth belt.
2) - No truck VG30 or VG33 have the timing dot on the oil pumps. What I did on mine was guestimate placement, then counted the belt teeth 3 times to be 110% sure.
After it was installed, I took a center punch and then placed my own timing dot for future timing belt replacements.
BLOZ UP: (2015-03-24 15:44:53)
After the crank timing gear issue is resolved, I have the problem of lining up the timing gear marks in line with the VG33 oil pump as the VG33 pumps don't have the timing dot on them to align with. For those running VG33 oil pumps, did you guesstimate as close as you could with the VG30 oil pump mark and then mark it on your VG33 pump?
Pretty much.
No truck VG30 or VG33 have the timing dot on the oil pumps. What I did on mine was guestimate placement, then counted the belt teeth 3 times to be 110% sure.
After it was installed, I took a center punch and then placed my own timing dot for future timing belt replacements.
Yup. I counted teeth. I should have used a punch, but I marked it with a sharpie.
88sinZ: (2015-03-24 23:38:02)
I should have used a punch, but I marked it with a sharpie.
They work the same, until you try and hammer the sharpie
ZEricMZ: (2015-03-25 04:19:08)
Thanks for the quick responses guys. Took your advice Alex, cleaned up my round tooth gears and have them on, timing belt from Nissan should be here Thursday and I can wrap up that situation on it. As far as the mark goes, I believe once I have it set I will use a punch to be safe =p
hds84t: (2015-05-12 22:32:34)
Hey guys, so I am currently sourcing all the parts necessary for my vg33et swap for my SS #562. I just want to make sure I have everything I need and all my bases covered so I don't hit any bumps while doing my swap as I intend to get it done over a weekend before the end of this month. I already have about 90% of the parts needed. Please look at my list and feel free to give me feedback or suggestions that I may benefit from.
Thanks in advanced.
-VG33e out of a 2003 X-terra
-VG33e crank/pulley/oil pump with MR.510 modified oil pick up tube
-VG30et oil pan
-VG33e Gates Timing Belt Kit with VG33e water pump; round tooth timing belt, etc. (I'm a click away from ordering but wondering if I'm better off with VG30e water pump)
-VG33e round tooth cam gears
-VG33e OWO Heads w/ Schneider S2 cams and Schneider Valve Springs (VG33e victor reinz HG set)
-VG30e lower intake manifold w/ welded satan racing plenum
-VG30et passenger side manifold, crossover pipe, satan log turbo manifold
Questions:
1) I'm trying to keep my VG30 accessories (alternator, power steering), will using a vg33e waterpump and the 33 wp pulley affect/prevent me from running the vg30 alternator and power steering. I see Alex (amrebot) is using a vg30 waterpump with the 3.3 pulley… is this ideal to keep vg30 accessories? What is YOUR setup using the VG33 crank and what would you do differently next time (for simplicity).
2) I see there is some debate whether or not a Pathy oil filter bracket is necessary, or not. Has this been cleared up? Will I need the Pathy bracket or will my Xterra oil bracket work just fine.
Thanks again for the feedback
MY1PATH: (2015-05-13 01:16:16)
1) Use the 3.0 water pump with the stock 3.0 pump pulley because the offset on the 3.3 water pump is not correct alignment for the stock Z accessory pulleys. you will have to notch the water pump to clear the 3.3 oil pump.
1.1) See if MR510 can make you a 3.0->3.3 pulley? I think he's developing them right now? Because I don't know if 3.3 crank pulley has the correct arrangement for running stock accessories.
1.2) Alternatively, MR510 does have Crank Pulley Hub adapters for 3.0 Pathfinder pulleys (All 3 V pulleys unbolt from the hub/balancer on pathfinders) I think You can run that will all 3.0 pathfinder V pulleys for your accessories.
1.3) OR run all 3.3 accessories with 3.3 water pump and crank pulley.
2) I think either filter housing works ? The X housing is angled and the pathfinder housing is nearly straight down (smaller spills when changing filters, you can fill the new filter all the way to the top before installing)
ozzyrulez: (2015-05-13 02:08:00)
See my post about what pulleys I'm running. The xterra should be the same as the frontier. The frontier. I even posted belt information.
MY1PATH: (2015-05-13 02:11:00)
I stand corrected. This is from PAGE 1 of THIS THREAD
Re: The VG33E information thread
New info.
Z31 Waterpump will work on VG33 with the Z31 pulley using the VG33 Crank Pulley. The Z31 uses a larger pulley by the looks of it, but I think it will be ok to use on the VG33.
The Z31 waterpump has a longer snout than the VG33. However, the VG33 waterpump pulley is a center-flange style, while the Z31 pulley is a frontal-flange style. What I mean is that the VG33 waterpump pulley has it's mounting surface smack dab in the middle of the inside diameter of the pulley. The Z31 has it's mounting flange on the outside edge of the inside diameter of the pulley. So no matter which pump you use, as long as you use the pulley that it came with, it will work.
The VG33 Balancer is a 32mm centre bore. A Z31 pulley is a 28mm centre bore (I think, haven't measured but it looks around there). The belt styles are different in that the 84-87 Z's came with a Vbelt style pulley end for the power steering setup. The 88 and 89 came with a ribbed pulley, I believe (Correct me if I'm wrong).
Using the 88-89 ribbed power steering pulley should allow the use of the VG33 balancer with the appropriate belt....
amreboot: (2015-05-13 03:10:24)
1) There has obviously been different combinations that people have been using.
IMO - follow my setup because it works with all accessories and uses stock z31 belts
So VG30 Z31 Water Pump w/ VG33 Water Pump Pulley
2) If you are using the VG33 crank, you will need the pathy or quest oil filter bracket.
If you use the bracket from your xterra, you will not be able to change the filter because the front stabilizer bar will be in the way.
Again, I recommend following my setup for 2 reasons
1) It works
2) I am biased towards it
MY1PATH: (2015-05-13 05:12:06)
yep! go with MR510's hub and all V pulleys. I have one as well and i'm very happy with it.
88sinZ: (2015-05-13 10:35:12)
Men under stress are fools, and fool themselves
-Michel de Montaigne
You can literally buy an entire engine with accessory set-up and so many of you choose to run haggard ass combos
ozzyrulez: (2015-05-13 14:37:29)
I'd hardly call mine a haggard ass combo. The only thing changed on mine is the power steering pulley. Hardest part of my setup was determining belt sizes which I've provided. One belt is from a early 90's Quad4 the other is a 3.3 Quest alternator belt neither are rare. The added benefit is you get wider belts over the stock Z31 belts as well.
Haggard ass he says.
NissanEgg: (2015-05-13 22:35:31)
v-belts are teh suck!
hds84t: (2015-05-27 01:06:21)
If only these links worked =\
88sinZ: (2015-05-27 14:20:56)
Blame the forum switch over.
hds84t: (2015-05-27 19:28:44)
Yeah, I was hoping to get some info on what people used for the turbo oil feed. I know there used to be detailed pictures but it seems like 80% of the pictures are gone.
So if anyone would be kind enough to share their pictures of what they did for the turbo oil feed line that'd be great. I'm using the VG33 crank and vg33 oil pump.
Thanks in advanced.
ozzyrulez: (2015-05-28 00:20:30)
I drilled my block and used the factory hard-line. You can use the vg33 oil filter housing as a feed. You just have to tap it to the line you plan on using.
hds84t: (2015-05-28 00:44:43)
I drilled my block and used the factory hard-line. You can use the vg33 oil filter housing as a feed. You just have to tap it to the line you plan on using.
This! I'm trying to find pictures of this but all the ones that were posted on this thread a while back are all gone.
ZEricMZ: (2015-05-28 03:26:56)
You can either use the oil filter housing as a feed (take out the oil pressure switch on the housing, run feed line and use the VG30's factory oil pressure sensor location for sensor) OR you can take out one of the plugs on the block and use an -AN fitting in that to run your line. The latter is the route I chose to go.
88sinZ: (2015-06-02 01:46:07)
Building on that, if you feed from the oil galley plug use a 18" to 21" line for the stock turbo location
oopziboozted: (2015-08-26 15:11:34)
good reads…cant wait to start my swap!
soysauce300zx: (2016-01-24 03:19:56)
So im doing a swap and i was wondering what you guys did for distributors? I would just use the vg33 dist but i have no idea have to wire that up to my z31 ECU or harness. Is it possible to just swap my vg30e distributor into the vg33 and that's that? or am i being to hopeful haha.
I would check my self but im in the middle of a timing belt change so im focusing on that plus if i can use my z31 distrubtor i was going to order a new rotor and cap asap so my last batch of parts arrive on the same time frame for finishing time. Thanks
amreboot: (2016-01-24 16:43:29)
Z31 distributor. Change the mount plate from vg33 to vg30
soysauce300zx: (2016-01-25 03:39:08)
k sweet little tired but should i just match up the vg30e dist housing and rotor/input shaft location to the existing vg33 distributor. Or should i just start over and find top dead center with the new distributor? Also im about positive i know what you mean by top plate but maybe for someone elses use, i circled the part in the image below in this link below. https://www.google.com/search?q=vg33…UYlSwPFHcwM%3A
maxresdefault1.jpg
Attached Files
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amreboot: (2016-01-25 03:43:04)
Yes. That mounting plate.
Throw away the entire vg33 distributor. Use everything from the vg30.
The timing alignment is exactly the same.
soysauce300zx: (2016-01-26 07:16:59)
Alright thankyou amreboot your the man that makes things easy enough. Im just gonna give my distributor a little overhaul while i have it out. Ive been looking all night for a Cylinder head temp sensor on this 1996 vg33 and cant find one anywhere. Ive tried looking looking online for a location on a 1996 pathfinder vg33 and im not sure it even has one. If my vg33 doesn't have a CHTS im wondering if i should just leave the connector going to my Z31 ECU disconnected? All i know is my old vg30 has a bad CHTS and it made it run pretty crappy sometimes unitill i changed it, so im hoping this wont be to big of an issue on the vg33.
I'm loving this vg33 swap more and more. Plus i got a good early pathy engine, a 1996 that has a pre drilled turbo oil feed hole. Oh and before i forget this pathy engines crank pulley has a v belt nearest to the engine like in the pic below. I have yet to see a pulley like that until i picked this engine up haha. I'm hoping it might make life easy if i can just use my z31 alternator. Ill find out in a few days when i go to do my final mock up for the belts and accessories. Either way i have a Nissan Exterra alternator with the ribbed belt pulley that if all else fails i can figure something to do with that. I'm just not sure if the Exterra alternator is much better then the z31. I know the Maxima's alternators are worth swapping just not the Exterra.
rsz_20160123_001157.jpgrsz_20160123_001202.jpg
amreboot: (2016-01-26 16:29:43)
dude… you're kind of overthinking this whole thing.
The VG33 CHTS was on the waterneck.
Use the z31 VG30 CHTS in the factory location. The threaded port is there.
You match the accessories to whatever crank and crank pulley you're running.
If you swapped to the VG30 stuff, then use all VG30 stuff.
You need to literally throw away all VG33 stuff except for block and heads.
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-28 00:50:44)
questions here that relate without thread jacking
http://z31performance.com/showthread…937#post375937
togofaster1126: (2016-04-26 02:44:04)
So im stuck on the power steering pump on my vg33 swap. i have the vg33 with a quest crank pulley and have already figured out the alternator and water pump belt setup now im struggling on the power steering pump. Problem is my z31 power steering pump is a v belt pulley and i need a ribbed pulley. I have local junk yards i can pick from but does anyone know what ribbed power steering pump pulley will fit a z31 power steering pump? Ive already tried an xterra, maxima and sentra with no luck the spline on them is to large. I cant just use the xterra pump because the center is to wide and wont allow the z31 brackets to be used on the pump. I was wondering what you guys did when coming across this issue. Thanks
Jp84vg: (2016-10-20 04:51:51)
Im new, and this may be silly, but i have a 84 na want to swap a vg33e, not shure why everyone swaps out the oilpan? is the oilpan to wide? You couldn't fab custom mounts? To raise it just wondering. Thanks
88sinZ: (2016-10-20 05:31:52)
the oil pump pick up tube flange is in a different location. the VG33 uses a different tube and pan, making our chassis require the VG30 pan and modified pickup tube/pan
The pan and pickup is both swapped and modified
User Mr.510 did a modified pickup tube, i don't have his info but i do believe he runs an online shop per-order. His tube requires no cutting of the baffles. original Z31P page has 404'd and it's been years since i've seen him post up.
shromy: (2016-10-20 13:44:30)
or you swap cranks and oil pump and everything bolts right in.
88sinZ: (2016-10-21 02:54:43)
^ fact
and much easier if you do not desire the 33 pump, and wish to retain original accessories
Augustus Maximus: (2016-11-22 09:58:12)
the oil pump pick up tube flange is in a different location. the VG33 uses a different tube and pan, making our chassis require the VG30 pan and modified pickup tube/pan
The pan and pickup is both swapped and modified
User Mr.510 did a modified pickup tube, i don't have his info but i do believe he runs an online shop per-order. His tube requires no cutting of the baffles. original Z31P page has 404'd and it's been years since i've seen him post up.
You sure the pan needs no modification. I made a similar pickup tube and the pan did need the babble shaved. He's on Facebook so I can verify this
88sinZ: (2016-11-23 01:18:40)
for Mr.510's or my claim? I'm stating the pan and tube needs some good work.
i posted up about modifying the tube and pan waaaay back when. seem my history doesn't reach back. The center baffels need to be persuaded ( cut and hammered down) along with reforming the pickup tube and cutting the center bracket. it cleared by about 1/4~7/16"
jp2code: (2016-11-23 02:56:59)
I am doing a VG33 swap on a 1994 D21 Hardbody truck. It is a JDM engine, and best I can tell it is from something in the 1997 to 2000 era because I have the 2 multi-rib and 1 v-belt on the Harmonic Balancer.
How do you guys get pictures to upload here? Every time I try, I am told, "Image upload failed because the extension of this file did not match the content." I don't know what that means. I uploaded the image to my Imgur.com host, but that means it may not be available for years.
Anyway, I am putting in Schneider Racing H256 cams, but I can't seem to get the stock cams out. The bolt is out of the back. The Right Hand Side (RHS) cam slides forward a little, but then it sounds/feels like one of the lobes is bumping. The LHS does not want to move at all. I can't send the cams to Schneider for regrinding if I can't get them out of the head.
88sinZ: (2016-11-24 00:24:15)
you have to feather the cams out by supporting them through the bearing surface bore, it's a tight fit
DO NOT HAMMER THEM, try some lube
jp2code: (2016-11-24 00:39:19)
Looks like it was the camshaft seals that were holding the cams in place. I didn't hammer them …exactly. I used a rubber mallet and tapped on the back side of the camshaft with a big drift pin.
I hope I didn't screw anything up. I didn't tap very hard because I was aware that those surfaces were tight tolerance areas.
How do most people get those camshaft seals out?
Once they were out, the camshafs came out pretty easy.
88sinZ: (2016-11-26 03:06:03)
seal puller tool
Xtigga: (2018-01-12 08:12:12)
Sorry to revive a dead thread like this. I don't even own a Z. But I do have a 2001 Xterra 3.3 5 spd.
I'm doing some work to it that will require tuning, but the VG33E seems to have garbage for tuning options. I guess there's no aftermarket for tuning trucks :P
Over on XterraNation (http://xterranation.org/index.php?th…fo-by-fo.8275/) I've been told that a VG30 ECU will run my VG33 and has far more tuning capabilities, but no one can give me much more information than that.
I was hoping someone on this forum would have more info regarding this computer swap, since you all seem to swap these engines around all the time. Do the plugs from my harness match the VG30 ECU? Will I need to rewire any sensors? Will I need to add sensors? Will I run into emissions problems?
kaur: (2018-01-12 09:21:06)
You could ask Nistune just in case if they have a board that fits an Xterra VG33 ECU.
jp2code: (2018-01-12 12:26:06)
Sorry to revive a dead thread like this. I don't even own a Z. But I do have a 2001 Xterra 3.3 5 spd.
I'm doing some work to it that will require tuning, but the VG33E seems to have garbage for tuning options. I guess there's no aftermarket for tuning trucks :P
Over on XterraNation (http://xterranation.org/index.php?th…fo-by-fo.8275/) I've been told that a VG30 ECU will run my VG33 and has far more tuning capabilities, but no one can give me much more information than that.
I was hoping someone on this forum would have more info regarding this computer swap, since you all seem to swap these engines around all the time. Do the plugs from my harness match the VG30 ECU? Will I need to rewire any sensors? Will I need to add sensors? Will I run into emissions problems?
The ECU has to be flashed with a new program. Some places like Jim Wolf Technology offer this service for around $600.
Once you put an older ECU on it, you will loose a lot. The VG30 ECU is not OBDII, so all of the gauges on your truck will need to be swapped over to the old gauges. You will also not be able to monitor all of the extra sensors that the VG33 has on it (nowhere to plug them up on the VG30 wiring harness). Did I mention you are going to have to rewire the Xterra with an older Hardbody wiring harness?
Dunkine: (2018-01-14 06:20:24)
Will I run into emissions problems?
I would check with your DMV and tell them you are deleting the OBDII system and putting and older system in. They may not pass you for going backwards on emissions.
88sinZ: (2018-02-21 08:46:19)
XTigga, you can go to a VG30 computer, and run NisTune.
it will require significant EFI/Wiring, re-pinning of the ECU plugs, and some hard component swaps - it is possible, but it is a lot of work
albionwanderer86: (2018-03-18 14:33:58)
Just a quick question for anyone who has done a VG33 swap into their Z31. I have recently purchased one from a '98 Pathfinder, and I've been trying to rig up a way to do a compression test on the engine before I tear it down and do a rebuild for boost. The issue I am having is with a Z31 starter lining up with the flywheel. I am using a stock VG30E flywheel, bolted to a stock VG33E block, mounted on the starter bracket that bolts to the side of the engine block. I can't seem to get it to line up, though. It seems just a hair off. Has anyone else had this issue? When I get back home, I'll take a picture to show what I'm talking about.
jp2code: (2018-03-18 16:42:55)
Just a quick question for anyone who has done a VG33 swap into their Z31. I have recently purchased one from a '98 Pathfinder, and I've been trying to rig up a way to do a compression test on the engine before I tear it down and do a rebuild for boost. The issue I am having is with a Z31 starter lining up with the flywheel. I am using a stock VG30E flywheel, bolted to a stock VG33E block, mounted on the starter bracket that bolts to the side of the engine block. I can't seem to get it to line up, though. It seems just a hair off. Has anyone else had this issue? When I get back home, I'll take a picture to show what I'm talking about.
All of the accessories and mounting brackets on a Pathfinder are on the opposite side from what you need.
If you are going to try to find a way to reuse your Z31 accessories by machining the crank, it doesn't matter. Otherwise you are about to find yourself spending a few months buying lots of cheap brackets and accessory parts and paying a load for shipping. I paid as much for my parts and shipping as I did for my JDM engine.
albionwanderer86: (2018-03-19 12:18:43)
I am going to swap in a VG30E crankshaft and camshafts, so accessories aren't an issue. I will be using a VG30 water pump, alternator, p.s. pump, etc. It has been done without any complications, just read Texas_Ace's post. My question pertains specifically to the starter. I believe either my starter bracket is slightly bent, or just needs a spacer or something to put it in the correct position.
jp2code: (2018-03-19 13:12:37)
I used my VG30e starter and flywheel on my VG33e Pathfinder engine. It just bolted on there.
albionwanderer86: (2018-03-19 22:49:20)
I'm thinking the issue is with the mounting bracket itself. The second bolt hole is currently empty, as the threads in that hole on the block are a bit buggered. I think once I clean them out with a tap, I should be able to mount up everything properly.
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albionwanderer86: (2018-04-17 00:11:10)
So… quick question. Has anyone installed an oil bypass valve on the VG33? I ordered one from Nissan, and tried to install it in mine… it did not go according to plan. I damaged the part, and then had to obliterate it trying to work it back out. Does anyone know the proper "installation" technique for this? Fortunately, the part was only like $6 at the dealership.
88sinZ: (2018-04-19 05:18:03)
legit bro, you been breaking shit left and right.
this might not be for you
yo u got questions PM me, ill drop my # if you want to text questions
Billygoatninja: (2018-12-05 10:08:33)
Alright, first off, I read till my brain seems to want to jump out of my head so trust me I have read before this. I hope my questions aren't stupid or obvious.
I have been reading conflicting information
1. Cranks: it seems the only reason to choose a 30 or 33 crank is ONLY based off the accessories one wants to use. This would mean the 30 and 33 cranks are exactly the same except the snout which means you have to pick one or the other and it's not exactly the best option to machine the crank to work with crank pulley configurations. So here comes the the conflicting part came across a post (of course the pictures aren't there anymore) but the snout broke off, I bet it was a lemon, of a 33 crank and people chiming in the 33 cranks are inferior. Oh it gets better, I have also read that the 33 cranks are superior to 30 cranks in the way of balancing and construction. Supposedly E cranks are nitrided at factory and you have to get them re nitrided if reground.
Side note: the VG30DE has forged crank and rods but are shot peened at the factory and are said to be 100% stronger than if it weren't shot peened. I found this to be a bit odd because that suggests that DE cranks are superior the E cranks but many claim they are only a half step better than an E crank so why bother trying to make it work. I know for a fact (as many know but had to at least see half of the story myself) that E cranks are nodular iron and DE cranks are indeed forged.
2. Oil pumps: so is there a difference between a 30 and 33 pump? If so could someone show pictures of the differences beyond oil filter location? I have yet to see the inside of both. I know what the 30 pumps looks like because I found out mine has a broken gear and surprised my engine that I'm currently rebuilding didn't Granade because of it. Is the ONLY reason to go with a 30 over a 33 solely based on the crank one decides to use? Again there is conflicting information saying that the 33 oil pump is a different style than and thus inferior to the 30 and DE pumps but there is information suggesting that the 33 pumps are superior to 30. As far as E engines go the auto turbo ported oil pumps are superior (supposedly) so why aren't they the norm? Why don't you see or at least I don't "Oh I'm running the ported auto turbo pump" over and over on build threads?
Another side note: supposedly the DE oil pumps are superior to both and physically bigger and there is talk of attempts at adapting a DE pump to ether a 30 or 33 insomuch that there are even cam gear spacers to move the came gears out available on z31online but I haven't found a single instance of someone actually doing it. Why would someone make these spacers if it wasn't profitable? I would think I would have found at least one person adapting a DE oil pump to an E. Or is it a enthusiast thing like Mr.510 crank pulley adapters that are impossible to get because he (Mr.510) can't keep up with demand.
I apologize for the rambling just so vary puzzling.
I am planning on going with a 33 (for obvious reasons) in my 92 pathfinder and want to place the accessories like a 99 pathfinder ware they are basically opposite and lower than they are now. If there is an overwhelming reason not to to use the 33 crank like for instance the (dispite what seems common knowledge) oil pump of the 33 being inferior? But is it inferior? I don't know because I don't know who to take their word. I've asked around but the posts I keep finding are ancient and have yet to receive ananswer.There must be a reason why people are willing to run a 30 oil pump (using the 33 block and heads and pistons and using everything else from the 30 seems to be the overwhelmingly the popular choice) or do they run what they can to keep their accessories the same and will sacrifice having a "inferior" oil pump.
mwolvinm: (2018-12-06 17:46:32)
I think most people opt for the vg30 crank and oil pump in order to keep the stock accessories in a z31. If you're running a pathfinder, this is moot. As for the oil pumps themselves, there is difference in flow, but unless you're running a high performance build, I doubt the flow differences would be measurable in terms of reliability. From the pictures I've seen, the design of the VG30 and VG33 pumps are the same, with the differences being the depth of the cavities (VG30 turbo auto's being the largest/deepest, hence more flow) and (of course) the size of the hole for the crank snout.
Dunkine: (2018-12-07 02:48:09)
1. Cranks: This would mean the 30 and 33 cranks are exactly the same
Yes, same except snout. There is an early and late vg30 too (like in the later Quests).
2. Oil pumps: so is there a difference between a 30 and 33 pump?
Large and small snout. Oil pickup tube locations.
Check out Nissan Nut's page: https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/nissannut.com/
He has a comparison for the 33 vs 30. https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/nissannut.com/
And has picture of some of the oil pumps.
https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/nissannut.com/
Billygoatninja: (2018-12-08 03:23:32)
Eventually I'm going to turbo it so I guess high performance (not going to get into it now) so I would prefer a better pump. I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine at the moment (I wish I could do a 33 but in a bind and don't want to just toss a engine at it in, probably, unknown condition since it has to last for an unknown amount of time). I'm asking because since I plan on turbo I would like to know if the if the 33 pump would suffice and that way I could just get a 33 build it and bingo bango. If not I'll get a 30 crank and auto turbo pump.
I read that article. Doesn't answer my questions.
FrozenZ: (2018-12-11 01:03:08)
The VG33 stock pump, installed with factory tolerances, will sometimes give you shockingly low pressure (like 12PSI) at warm or hot idle. This is just a VG33 "thing" AFAIK, you see pathy guys complaining about it but it's within spec and driving pressures are fine. Personal opinion - the VG3x with a Z31 oil pan does not really have enough oil capacity for a turbo car without an oil cooler, maybe plan on doing one.
Billygoatninja: (2018-12-11 02:26:25)
Edit: please bare with me I'm on my phone and isn't super user friendly.
In case anyone is curious what a broken oil pump looks like. This my have been the culprit of my "rodknock" I thought I had. This is the exact reason the N1 BNR32/33 skylines had upgraded oil pump gears.
They are indeed cast (iron? probably steel it's not aluminum). Any other type of metal forging doesn't brake like that. The N1 upgraded ones are probably machined from some type of billet. This is what happens when you put a fragile cast rotating thing in an aluminum case. I have my speculations why nissan would do that and I'll leave that up to your intrupritation, seems silly and all the over engineered /built nature that is nissan I would think they wouldn't overlook something like this. Remember there are TEAMS of engineers for stuff like this and not one thought of that? Hmmmmm....
Anywho there there you have it. I bet this happens more often than what is documented on the internet. Someday I'll have a at home machine shop and I can make stronger gears.
I know this doesn't have much to do with the 33 specifically but it seems most performance nissan engines (which is practically all of them) have this exact problem and all VGs are no different at least up until the VQ came out.
FrozenZ: (2019-05-04 12:42:22)
I had this in a comment above but according to the '96 Pathy service manual, page LC-4, minimum idle oil pressure is 9PSI. Z31 is 11. That's with 10w30. Just an FYI.
Billygoatninja: (2019-05-04 20:53:22)
I had this in a comment above but according to the '96 Pathy service manual, page LC-4, minimum idle oil pressure is 9PSI. Z31 is 11. That's with 10w30. Just an FYI.
I'm just gonna run rotella T4. If the oil is changed religiously at 5k (at least that's what I'm gonna do after this rebuild) the extra zinc shouldn't hurt the cat and if it does I have a welder......
88sinZ: (2019-05-06 02:37:06)
FrozenZ the only reason i run 20W-50 is because it's high zinc oil (VR-1) its becoming harder to find, so it's looking like 10W-30 pennzo dino juice is going to be the fall . back. If you want to pick hairs, the FSM calls for 7-9psi min, i read too. Besides, you must consider volume and weight - oil and viscosity is tricky like that.
For billy, i'm still not convinced, these are truck motors, these are sedan motors, these and minivan motors. unless you really beat the piss out of em they *shouldnt* fail
88sinZ: (2019-09-13 08:45:00)
FrozenZ
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88sinZ, if you need 20w50 to hold upper 20s on a new oil pump it stands to reason that if you use the recommended 10w30 you're gonna be seeing substantially lower pressures. The FSM for the '96 Pathy (page LC-4) specifies 9PSI as the low end for idle oil pressure (!)
you are correct to a point, my vehicle sits for moths at a time. Each run up has an extensive run up check per-fire. the high weight and zinc content is preference for higher temps with journal bearing turbos (poor life build)
even with quality builds the bearing surfaces still contain zinc, so i'll do what i will