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1987 - 1989 Z31 Instrument Cluster Upgrade (Lighting and Needles)

The reason I did this to my Instrument cluster was to update it a bit, give myself a more visible red needles at night and more brightness.

I started this project was because my Instrument cluster was dim and with LED's being the craze and my job being based on LED's (Fiber Optic Lasers) I figured oh, Why not.

Comparison

stockneedles.png

Stock

redneedlesdone.png

Red Needles

final.png

Final Product

Items Needed

- 3x Mini SMT LED bulbs for the #158(Amber) - 1x 2722 T1.5(Amber) - 6x T1.5/Neo Wedge/12mm Base bulbs(Red) - Testors Model Master Paint Flat White - FS37875

  • Testors Model Master Paint Fluorescent Red - FS28915
  • Testors Model Master Paint Insignia Red - FS31136
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • Ratchet
  • Assorted sockets

Bulb Chart

| Nissan Part Number | Common Part Number | Volts / Watts | Description | Quantity | |---|---|---|---|---| | (24855C) - 24860-21P01 | 158 | 12V/3.4W | T3-1/4 | 3 | | (24855C) - 24860-21P02 | 2722 | 12V/2.0W | T1.5 | 1 | | (24855B) - 24860-21P00 | 39320 | 12V/2.0W | T1.5/Neo Wedge/12mm Base | 6 | Notes: #158 bulbs can be replaced with #194 types. #2722 bulbs can be replaced with #74 types. |

The Process

  • Remove the lower steering column plastic trim. Use a Phillips screwdriver for the 3 screws.
  • Remove the trim around the steering wheel (plastic casing just behind the wheel). There are 4 screws, 2 per side. Take off the top portion.

- Remove switch pods on each side of the instrument cluster. See: Switchpod bulb replacement

  • Drop the steering column by loosening the 2 golden bolts underneath (but don’t remove them). This helps you get the cluster out without removing the steering wheel.

- Remove the 2 Phillips screws from the instrument cluster bezel.

  • Carefully remove the bezel from the instrument cluster area.

- Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the left and right of the cluster to free the unit.

  • Slowly pull the cluster forward to access the rear.
  • Press the top and bottom tabs on each connector to unplug from the cluster.
  • Carefully sneak the cluster out between the steering wheel and dash.
  • Now, we’ll upgrade to LED bulbs. Some modifications are needed.

- Remove the Gauge Face Lighting bar on top of the cluster (3 small Phillips screws on the bar, plus 2 auxiliary bulbs).

- Carefully remove the 3 PCBs (lighting bar and auxiliary bulbs).

- Remove the front gauge lighting bar to reveal the white lighting diffusers.

- About diffusers: Keep them for incandescent or LED bulbs. Remove only if using UV bulbs in the 365-390nm range (most LEDs are not true UV).

  • Remove the acrylic plastic cover (4 screws front, 5 rear). Gently undo 4 rear and 2 front tabs.

- Carefully separate and lift the cover.

  • LED Directionality: LEDs are directional, unlike incandescent bulbs, so add reflectors for better luminance.
  • Red LED note: Red LEDs are focused and near infrared—consider reflectors or paint for better needle illumination.

- Mix premium white enamel paint well for reflectors (Testors Model Master recommended).

- Paint the underside of the front lighting bar flat white, as well as the PCB spots for temp/fuel bulbs.

- Paint the inside of the trough where bulbs rest; stir well and apply several coats. This boosts needle lighting with red LEDs.

  • Review: Additional pictures of the cluster and bulbs.

- This cluster uses an acrylic diffuser for even illumination.

- The gauge faceplate is lexan, with two squares for temp/fuel gauges.

  • The faceplate is orange lexan, screen printed and dotted with white paint on back for even light.

- Factory odometer/trip bulb: 2722 bulb, can be replaced with #74. Note acrylic diffuser.

- Center bulb/diffuser: can use #194 bulb.

- Bulb behind temp gauge: can use #194 bulb.

- Bulb behind fuel gauge: can use #194 bulb.

- Comparison: 11 Mini SMT LEDs vs factory #158 bulb. These are the tallest that fit.

  • Z31 needles: poly with a weight. Painted fluorescent red for effect.

- Fluorescent red = orange/red, glows under blacklight. Blend with insignia red for deeper color.

- Result: Paint matches tachometer, looks more red.

  • This method is great for stock, LED, or black light bulbs—needles look red day/night and glow under UV.

- Needles now glow red, even under black light.

- Red needles under black light.

  • Reinstall needles, clean acrylic cover, button up screws.
  • Test the cluster and gauges in car. If all works, tighten all remaining screws.
  • View: With regular light and UV (no backlighting yet).

- Goal: Red needles achieved!

  • Slide the cluster in, plug in illumination connector (behind tach). Turn on parking lights, check LED polarity (+/–). LEDs won’t work if reversed!
  • Photos show: stock white needles, red colored needles, and finished cluster.

- Key point: All needles glow red; fuel/temp gauges have red effect.

  • Optionally use UV light for fluorescent glow!
  • Result: Cooler-running, longer-lasting LEDs, and red illumination for needles and gauges.

Sources Used

1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual

  • Writeup by: Nivo88T
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