Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums engine-mechanical-aa/Z31 Electric Fans
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cesar: (2010-02-21 08:16:49)
Just wanted to know if any of our members have used this new electric fan kit for our z31's that I came accross on ebay. It is made by FF Dynamics and the seller is spikedcollardogs, here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-3 … 19b7cfc80d if it is of any help to any of you. The price is a little on the highside but what caught my attention was the lifetime warranty.
Thanks,
Cesar
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/spikedcollardogs/
maverickxeo: (2010-02-21 09:55:14)
They claim it draws 10 amps… does that sound low?
BLOZ UP: (2010-02-21 15:19:42)
I have two 12" flex a lite, 9 amps each: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-112/
They let the car get hot during emissions testing. I need to build a shroud. They only flow 1,100 CFM each.
I should have gotten two of these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19122/?rtype=10
Same price.
NissanEgg: (2010-02-21 18:32:42)
Interesting....
Somebody want to buy one and report back?
BLOZ UP: (2010-02-21 19:26:15)
Curved blades aren't going to flow that much.
Steve88t: (2010-02-21 19:39:51)
CFM has less effect on cooling than coverage. 10A does seem a bit low but it all depends on how the motor is wound. It may turn slower due to higher resistance and thus pull less current.
tcfs: (2010-02-22 16:33:12)
I got my electric fan from Summit. Its a 16" Proform with 2100 or 2300 cfm I believe. Draws about 8-9 amps, and cost about $90. Does its job just fine.
khyronzx: (2010-02-22 21:14:10)
Rather expensive considering the other options out there.
reddzx: (2010-02-22 22:09:03)
Nice looking unit though.
300zxturboftw: (2010-05-12 03:59:40)
Maxima fan conversion? I doubt you will have to replace it more than 2 or 3 times in the life of your car and at $15-20 a piece at a junk yard you can't beat that price.
862sik: (2010-05-12 05:33:13)
I paid jsut as much for my flex-a-lite dual fan setup. Rather have my setup. It may draw a bit more amps, but it cools better and it isnt on 24-7 and my alternator is a maxima one so im not worried about current draw.
Mine are lower profile than those and have a shroud built on thats rubber
I also got a module that will turn it on only at 60 percent of power but if the temp increases 10 degrees from that point it goes 100 percent.
Its very similar to this one
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt … s%3Disch:1
but its cheaper than that.
zzzlow: (2010-05-12 15:32:56)
taurus fan, $8 at the junk yard. Works like a champ
edicer2: (2010-05-12 15:41:02)
what year do you use for a tarus fan?
reddzx: (2010-05-12 19:23:56)
3.8L 86 - 95 Taurus/ Sable, 86 - 94 Lincoln Continental or 94-97 Thunderbirds
Z_Karma: (2013-09-25 07:03:00)
Resurrected this thread for this:
1999 Mercury Cougar E-fan. Close to perfect fit between the end tanks, would only requires some simple L brackets to mount to stock locations.
This one has a chip missing on the bottom where i dropped it. I haven't tested it yet.
862sik: (2013-09-25 07:10:26)
Nice find.
I got rid of my flexalite fans and went with a tarus fan. But on my NA the car wouldn't idle due ti the forced air into my intake. So I went with a Concorde fan. Great fit.
reddzx: (2013-09-25 20:05:19)
Please followup with this fan mod when you get it working
flatfoot: (2013-09-26 11:50:54)
I've got a whole story on Efans.
I ran a maxima fan for a couple years on a stock radiator. Fit great, just couldn't keep up when it broke 90 degrees outside in 5 O'clock traffic. Never overheated, just broke the 175 mark when HI is set to come on at 160. This being measured with the sender in the lower radiator hose or output side.
So this summer I upgraded to the MSA 3 core radiator. Problem is that now the maxi fan wouldn't clear the frame horn and required some serious butchering which eventually broke one the blades and severely weakened the shroud which eventually died.
Time to upgrade. I ended up with a pair of fans off a 98 Vette. These required a custom aluminum shroud approximately 1/2" deep to mount them and an additional set of relays to make them work with HI and Low like a stock Vette.
So far this combination works like a champ. I drive an hour to work, maybe longer depending on traffic. Last night on the way home it was 65 degrees out and again the only time it got warm, 140+ degrees, was in rush hour traffic. Once I got out of town the temps dropped to the point the sender wouldn't pick register within 20 miles on the highway.
Definitely not the cheapest way to go, but so far the most effective I've found.
Parker: (2013-09-26 13:29:54)
The Flex-a-Lite 410 has worked like a champ for me so far. Dual 12" with its own controller. When it got to 38°C (100°F) this summer it was having trouble keeping up, but I discovered the space between the A/C condenser and radiator had filled up with those floaty pollen things (my garage was full of them last year and I guess the fan sucked em up while Zoey was idling.) Once I got that crap cleared out (seriously, in the area covered by the fan blades the stuff was so thick it actually came out in a big sheet like fibreglass insulation or something. Anyhoo, once I got that cleaned out I went out of my way to find the hottest environment to run Zoey with the A/C on full blast to see if the fans could keep up. I idled her in a buddy's garage with the sun beating down on the roof, it was 43°C (109.4°F) according to the ambient temp sensor, and I couldn't get the water temperature to go more than one notch above normal on the digital display. It seems dumb, but the first thing to check when you're having overheating problems is to make sure there isn't anything physically blocking the passage of air through the radiator. Durr, right?
If you're looking for an aftermarket complete package e-fan setup with a shroud that fits the Z31 radiator almost perfectly and you don't mind spending a few bucks, I feel this kit is pretty hard to beat.
michaelp: (2013-09-26 16:05:57)
I like it. Any idea what they flow? I'm rocking the good old taurus fan on high and the car still runs warm after a bit of drifting. I'll be going to the 3-row aluminum radiator before next season, but I'd look into other fan possibilities too.
Z_Karma: (2013-09-26 17:37:23)
I've not tested it, it's probably going into SS#820 but it will be awhile before that's running.
I'm going to power it up with a battery and measure the current draw. I can borrow a anemometer
from work to sample the air flow and compare that to the shrouded GM 3800 fan i have in my 84T.
The 3800 fan has worked great for ~9 years of almost daily driving.
[archived image: cz1Hv.jpg]
[archived image: MlpR7.jpg]
reddzx: (2013-09-26 18:07:17)
What GM car is this out of?
flatfoot: (2013-09-27 06:38:58)
Edit:
Forgot to add that I've pretty much blocked off the whole radiator with an intercooler.
I was in the process of getting together pipes and stuff to install a blow through maf and a pathfinder intake when I figured out it was getting warm.
Having blown my budget on a radiator upgrade and fans hopefully at Xmas I'll get it all together.
turbofedz: (2013-10-02 01:06:58)
Maxima duals no problem for years here in new York city.
Z_Karma: (2013-11-06 23:50:50)
More info in the fan i found. Evidently it's a fan upgrade for mustang guys as well.
I measured the current draw on it last night and was surprised when it surged over 100A on startup.
Today i learned what "inrush current" is.
Here is some specs on the fan from a place that sells control modules for this fan:
http://www.dccontrol.com/33212info.htm
I have a 40A solid state relay that i was going to wire in but the whole inrush current discussion (there is a lot of it on the mustang boards)
needs some more research before i just slap it in.
Edit:
Some more research here in regards to this fan and variable controllers:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cool…r-reviews.html
If the DCC controller will work with the sentra sensor setup i just made, 
i'll probably get the FK-55 kit http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te…ontrollers.htm
It's more than i wanted to spend but, at this point i want to get the car done.
Edit#2
Purchased a 50A PWM DC motor controller from Amazon:
http://www.canakit.com/50a-dc-pwm-mo…ontroller.html
If it handles the inrush current it should be fine. I can also ask some of the EE's here at work how i could modify it to possibly handle more.
I will measure and post the inrush and operating current tomorrow for the fans.
Z_Karma: (2013-11-08 17:53:45)
Some more testing data:
Measurement of current draw at startup and normal operation, on and off the radiator.
Measurement of current draw using the fans stock drop resistor (low speed)
Single Fan, Off Radiator Inrush Current (A) Operating Current (A)
Drop resistor 30 8.4
No Resistor 83 11
Single Fan, On Radiator Inrush Current (A) Operating Current (A)
Drop resistor 30 8.4
No Resistor 89 12.8
Both Fans, Off Radiator Inrush Current (A) Operating Current (A)
Drop resistor 37 14.5
No Resistor 145 22.5
Both Fans, On Radiator Inrush Current (A) Operating Current (A)
Drop resistor 37 14.5
No Resistor 158 24.7
Notes:
The added restriction of the radiator in the airstream intake slightly impedes the fans from spinning up as fast, hence the increased current draw when mounted to the radiator.
Using the drop resistor (low speed) for both fans may be questionable as it got very hot. I'm uncertain if it is used to control one or both fans on the OEM install.
Current clamp meter and car battery (with charger attached)
Painted and patched, mounted with ghetto-fabbed aluminum brackets.
Note: Drop Resistor in upper right corner.
ccm797: (2013-11-12 02:01:39)
MSA 3 core radiator with Flex a lite 412 dual lo-pro puller fans rated for 2500cfm
[img] br /[archived image: JN0MdqI.jpg]
I had to slightly notch the hood release bar to give better fitment for the radiator hose. The flex a lite 412 setup was also the only one lo pro enough to clear and also fits the radiator almost perfectly
[/img]
Z_Karma: (2013-11-14 08:25:59)
^^I like the addition of the rubber molding around the edges to protect the radiator webbing.
Received the DC motor controller and collected more test data:
Canakit 50A PWM DC motor controller (100% Duty Cycle) Fans mounted to radiator. Inrush Current (A) Operating Current (A)
Single Fan 52.5 12.2
Both Fans 91.7 23.8
Compared to without:
Fans mounted to radiator. Inrush Current (A) Operating Current (A)
Single Fan 89 12.8
Both Fans 158 24.7
Operating current is mostly unchanged but the peak inrush current is reduced substantially.
This should really help keep the engine from stuttering/stalling at lower RPMS with the stock alt.
The soft start function of the controller makes the fans gradually ramp up (~1 second)
These particular bosch motors seem unhappy at lower speed levels less than 90% (estimated)
They grumble at lower voltages/speeds. This behavior does give them have a slight rumble upon startup due to the soft start .
Playing around with the PWM setting made the fan motors whine at various pitches as the pot
was adjusted in conjunction with adjusting the duty cycle pot. I asked one of the electrical techs at work about this
and he said it may be related to the particular motor not being designed for PWM control. I dunno, It's outside of my experience.
Only long term testing will tell if it lasts.
Next testing will be a on/off testing over the weekend with a borrowed timer from work.
Something like 10 seconds on, 30 seconds off to stress test the soft start and to see
if the FET heatsink on the board absolutely needs the fan or can even be fitted with a
smaller heatsink to allow it to fit in a smaller project box.
I have various finned heatsinks (and fans) out the wazoo at work that i could fit to work.
G-E: (2013-11-16 00:37:02)
I agree, they are not going to be pwm, they'll be straight voltage modulated… remember it's a car, cheap and simple
Rick88ss: (2015-04-27 02:37:18)
old thread I know but any more info about this dual fan? How did you plan on running it? 1 fan on at 180 F and the 2nd one kicks in at 190 F or when the A/C compressor is on?
Are both fans the same or is one bigger than the other?
I might change my single 2-speed Taurus/Lincoln fan to this one since it covers the whole radiator core.
Axel kain: (2015-04-27 13:46:38)
Personally I prefer the cheap and easy dual (04 era) chevy malibu fans. Both together you're only looking at ~25A. can be had new for less than $100 with harness connectors. trim about 1/4" off each side of the shroud, and it fits excellently! If you prefer, using a dual fan controller, can be wired to be operated independently. I have them on a couple cars, one with stock turbo rad, other with a champion aluminum, and have had no issues with either. quiet, simple, easy, and flow an excellent amount of air!
Butter: (2015-04-27 15:17:31)
I just snagged a "Ramcharger" fan off a dead 2000 Intrepid. They have the relays already mounted on the unit. Basically the same size as the maxima fans. Any idiot should be able to find one. The cool thing about this fan is it's "slow" speed is barely a quiet idle to move air. They are plenty powerful on high.
[archived image: 1.JPG]
I also got this slim single off a 94 Volvo. These are also super easy to find. They also have a neat two-speed relay module attached that is easy to install.
Flow is crazy with this thing, probably the same or more than the Maxima ones it replaced, and I gained a ton of room.
[archived image: ly6swap575.JPG]
jaqattack02: (2015-04-28 02:18:42)
Pretty sure that dual fan setup is the same thing I have. Trimmed those tabs off the sides and it dropped right onto the radiator. Running it with a Derale fan controller.
Rick88ss: (2015-04-28 03:01:04)
I read somewhere that the Volvo fan is very similar and maybe the same as the Taurus fan .
I need something that will cover the whole radiator core and be slimmer than the thick Taurus fan. I already have the relays to run the fans. The Mercury Cougar fans look like the best fit for what I need.
The guy from dccontrol.com says that the Cougar fans are low impedence and require a diode or resistor or something to work correctly with the PWM fan controller the he sells. Might be needed for other PWM fan controllers.
ShamWow: (2015-04-28 12:49:36)
Remember when you had a standalone ecm with fan controls?
…ohh wellll
Butter: (2015-04-28 12:56:31)
Dying....
Rick88ss: (2015-04-28 13:41:38)
All the Microtech has is a single wire to ground a relay at an adjustable temperature for fan control.So does Nistune with the Z32 ecu. I'm still running the Microtech ecu though. I'm still getting a few things ready for the ecu swap. Also slowing me down a little is the 90+ heat and 100% humidity here in Miami. LOL
Rick88ss: (2015-04-29 23:34:13)
Here's some specs on the cougar/mystique/contour dual fans
Dimensions of the dual fan
[archived image: 3480rgn_zpshd937mr2.gif]
Taurus single 2-speed fan dimensions
[archived image: nx4dbt_zpszgnmy66s.gif]
Mercury Cougar dual fan factory wiring diagram
[archived image: 2rcbf2f_zpshpjajqxp.gif]
dual fan wiring diagram showing a 2 speed fan controller
[archived image: attachment-1_zps4ftlfadf.jpeg]
Looks like the both fans work on low speed with power going through the low speed resistor and both fans work on high speed bypassing the resistor.
Rick88ss: (2015-05-02 21:48:21)
I just went ahead and ordered a new fan (part#TYC 620750) from rockauto.com for $98 shipped. It comes with a lifetime warranty and includes the low speed resistor. I ordered 3 connectors from NAPA ECH EC267 for $6.99 each. One for each fan and one for the low speed resistor.
[archived image: 20150502_172706_zpsrqzpxb16.jpg]
boosted300: (2015-05-03 15:43:41)
Bro…we live in Miami…what the h#$% do you need low speed for?? [archived image: biggrin.png]
boosted300: (2015-05-03 15:46:10)
How many CFM do those fans flow?
Rick88ss: (2015-05-03 16:13:23)
I don't know how much CFM they put out but I'm gonna try to get them installed today. They look better than what I have now and will cover the whole radiator core. I'm gonna hook it up as a 2 speed since I already have the relays setup . Also it's better to start them on low then switch to high when needed to reduce the amp spike.
HarvesterUT: (2015-05-12 23:58:07)
What's the benefit of these electric fan setups over the stock solution? I would think a large shrouded fan running off the engine would be better and more reliable.
Rick88ss: (2015-05-13 01:25:20)
The whole engine compartment has been modified so the stock setup won't fit.
Electric fans usually free up horsepower and eliminating the stock shrouds and fan clutch makes room for intercooler pipes and other stuff.
hds84t: (2015-05-20 02:07:12)
I just went ahead and ordered a new fan (part#TYC 620750) from rockauto.com for $98 shipped. It comes with a lifetime warranty and includes the low speed resistor. I ordered 3 connectors from NAPA ECH EC267 for $6.99 each. One for each fan and one for the low speed resistor.
[archived image: 20150502_172706_zpsrqzpxb16.jpg]
I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread. Looks like I'll be ordering this kit as well.
How do you like it so far Rick?
Rick88ss: (2015-05-20 03:31:48)
Finally got it wired up and running yesterday. I didn't even have to remove the front bumper cover. I only had to remove the upper radiator hose.
Seems to blow alot of air. It's a perfect fit on the radiator core and a little slimmer than the Taurus fan that I had previously. I used some silicone vacuum hose split lengthwise to go around the edge of the fan housing where it touches the radiator.
Now I need to take it on a test drive after I reinstall the air filter heat shield after a few modifications that I had to do to it.
Urstin: (2015-07-16 14:52:26)
Rick has inspired me to grab the Cougar fan from RockAuto. I'm pretty new to electrical diagrams, and wiring things in. I've been looking at different forums/threads for a safe but affordable way to wire in two fans. I'd like to just run 1 speed fans, once the coolant hits 170 degrees. I've found this diagram
In my case, the car is already setup with a manual cabin toggle switch, and I think it's a good idea to keep that available just in case! This setup uses two realays in-line with eachother to prevent too much hitting a single relay and burning it up. My car has a single relay, running TWO FANS lol, but again, I don't want to burn anything up, so for the few dollars extra, I think the redundancy is worth it.
I read MikeG's write-up on Xenon as well. Are you guys using any type of alternative to the hayden fan switch? I don't want to go the thermo-probe method, I'd like to have the sensor touching coolant directly, like at the LIM or something.
les_joey_paul: (2015-07-16 15:10:03)
Derale has pretty robust units from what I see. They also have kits with thread in probes that with a adaptor can be made to thread into the LIM.
300zxturboftw: (2015-07-16 15:19:12)
I'm running a hayden fan switch with thermo probe. While I agree at times there's concerns where the fan won't turn on and it starts to overheat that something a sensor touching the coolant would be best, but it doesn't happen often enough for me to worry about it. I have a manually switch in cabin too just in case. I would just cut one of the radiator hoses and put a connecting piece with temperature sensor in it. Believe you would cut the top one vs. bottom, correct?
Edit: like the derale products as mentioned above vs. my idea after looking into it. Cheap and easy. Might do that now myself.
Urstin: (2015-07-16 15:23:39)
Top. NissanEgg put a probe at the bottom of his radiator and the fans never turned on while the car was overheating, I'm assuming the same result would occur if the sensor was in the lower rad hose. I'm going to try to run the 1.6L Sentra thermoswitch, in the LIM, with two relays. This will kick the fans on at 180 degrees (after thermostat has opened), and keep me from using a fan controller.
les_joey_paul: (2015-07-17 04:49:15)
You def want the fans to come on about 10 degrees after the thermostat has completely open. (200 degrees if you have a 180 thermostat ) to prevent premature wear of the thermostat
Crazy: (2015-07-17 18:11:41)
Here is the information that is missing from most posts!
Location the car is mostly driven?
Radiator? N/a, turbo or aftermarket?
Condenser on or off the car?
A/C running or off?
Aftermarket front mount engine oil cooler. Yes or no?
Front mount intercooler. Yes or no?
Urstin: (2015-07-17 18:31:06)
Michigan. Lots of winter, but always road construction during the summer. Also, the roads here mid-evil.
3-Row Champion aluminum rad
Condensor is on still, I was hoping to retain that as it's something to catch rocks/cats/debris from hitting the expensive rad
A/C is removed (except the condensor)
No oil cooler
No intercooler. Yet.
300zxturboftw: (2015-07-24 05:29:46)
Side topic. Are you able to use the front fan thermostat in bottom left of radiator and replace it with a 180 delrin sensor or will that cause issues with cooling due to location.
Axel kain: (2015-07-24 12:22:46)
That's not a good spot for a fan trigger sensor, needs to be closer to the top hose, and more centered to be effective.
flatfoot: (2015-07-25 04:37:43)
I"ll play the devil's advocate.
I agree the location isn't the best, but it might work if you realize that as a rule of thumb your radiator should drop 20 degrees from the inlet at the top to the outlet at the bottom.
This means that you need to lower your temp sender by 20 degrees from what you want it to come on at. If you want it to come on at 180 degrees you need a 160 degree switch.
Again I've never used this setup.
I have a 3 row radiator fully blocked off be an intercooler and a 160 degree t-stat.
Mine has the sender spliced into the lower radiator hose triggering at:
150 low on
140 low off
160 hi on
145 hi off
This setup seems to be working on a daily driver that makes a 80+ mile round trip to work here in Western Oregon .
This ran about 155 on the lower radiator hose today on the ride home in 85 degree weather.
300zxturboftw: (2015-08-09 14:32:08)
So back to the thread in probes from derale. Could someone confirm what the temp probe is for on the passage side of LIM with the male connector on it and also the larger sensor on the front drivers side does. Want to see which one I can remove to thread in a fan switch sensor. I use to know what these were for, but seems I've forgotten and can't find any info via part diagrams (if they are 100% needed or not)
300zxturboftw: (2015-08-09 14:52:46)
Talking about this sensor on drivers side. Anyone know what it's used for and what thread it is?
[archived image: 1346694451710.jpg]
300zxturboftw: (2015-08-09 15:15:03)
Just realized this is the water temp sensor for the gauge, correct? What is the other one on the passenger side then?
300zxturboftw: (2015-08-09 15:37:48)
Sorry, can't edit posts via mobile…or is this the coolant gauge sensor?
Urstin: (2015-08-09 15:41:07)
My temp gauge sensor is on the passenger side with a male spade connector sticking out. Maybe it's different for 85+. Here's my setup. I ordered this fan controller:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de…fan+controller
And just like NissanEGG, purchased this coupler:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40MM-WATER-T…390318&vxp=mtr
Then, I cut my ASCO silicone hose (I'm sure it killed a kitten somewhere), put it in the hose between the top radiator neck, and the body neck, and that thermostatic switch threads in perfect. No adapters, and all the wires hide pretty will in that corner of the engine bay.
300zxturboftw: (2015-08-09 17:15:58)
So I found in the fsm the passage side with male spade is for instrument cluster. The drivers side is the water switch for the extra fan in front of the radiator that switches on at 212 degrees. So what is the switch at the bottom of the radiator? Also what threading size is the water switch in the LIM. 3/8 npt? Making sure I can remove this with no I'll effects since my condenser fan has been long gone. Want to do this without cutting the radiator hoses.
Axel kain: (2015-08-10 12:25:27)
it is 3/8NPT the one on the drivers side is for the injector fan, the one in the rad is for the backup elec. fan on the front of the condenser, especially considering it's run (I believe) in series with that fan, if you notice it's large gauge wiring!
300zxturboftw: (2015-08-10 15:46:24)
Ah, thanks Axel! I remember removing this useless blower device now. Question remains, does this sit in coolant or is it a blind hole? I'm assuming if blind it has to be drilled thru to hit coolant?
Axel kain: (2015-08-10 15:48:40)
it sits in coolant. the later model VG's ran their CHTS in this spot, and is a sealed unit with a copper crush washer, to prevent leakage! * sits directly in the lower intake manifold's coolant chamber in the bottom of it.
hds84t: (2015-08-10 22:31:01)
Do you have any pictures of this setup? Also, what fan are you using?
Urstin: (2015-08-11 17:23:59)
I can take some tonight. I just wired it up last night. I need to improve the shroud. I'm running a Champ radiator. And I basically used NissanEgg's idea to run the coolant adapter in the hose for the thermostatic switch.
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-25 07:48:58)
hey guys, hope you dont mind me creeping on your thread, but this is a very important factor in my build because
1 i live in phoenix, (extreme hot summers)
2, i am shooting for a na2t swap that mimicks the original turbo setup, except on a built vg34.
i was originally going to go original clutch fan and fan shroud, since thats how it came from the factory.. i have a perfect shroud i found ive been holding onto for just this.. as they like to break where the support piece bolts on..
but after reading this complete thread i think i better look into upgrading. i have a custom aluminum radiator with a Taurus fan mounted to it, i dunno if the inlet/outlet pipes are in the right spots or if it would fit. but my real question is what would be the best "kit" for a radiator, fan, and whatever else is necessary for my setup and situation.
Also, i do have a turbo oil cooler i plan on running ( i need new hoses for, cause they were cut,)
i also found this engine fan of sorts that blows air through a shroud that points to the intake, does anyone know what this is and if i can use it with my setup? i need to take pics of what im describing and post them. first i need to clean them up lol. time for a brake cleaner party!
Meanwhile, if i am upgrading the cooling system, is there a standard upgrade to add an intercooler to the stock turbo system?
sorry for all the questions but they all seem to relate to the same situation
Z_Karma: (2016-01-26 01:35:16)
Champion 3 core aluminum radiator is recommended
It's likely an injector cooling fan, some toss it, some keep it. It's used to cool the injector rail and prevent vapor lock.
No standard, everything (besides the rare unicorn HKS kit and this overpriced kit) is homebrew. Look here for what others have done: http://www.redz31.net/turbofaq/intercoolers.html
No problem, there is lots of info out there, most of it can be found with Google.
FrozenZ: (2016-01-26 23:14:24)
I have never heard of anyone having overheating problems with the stock cooling setup *if* it was in good repair. Buuuuut… speaking from experience, getting rid of the shroud and clutch fan setup just makes the engine bay a much happier place to work.
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-27 01:42:30)
thanks, has anyone spent the money or read any reviews on that CXracing kit,? it comes with a new radiator as well, which, if performs as well as the champion, then i may seriously be thinking about it. the shitty part would be no more ac…here in phoenix that could almost make it a deal breaker, since it is going to be for daily driving, i would like to be able to stay comfortable, but at the same time want the best setup for my engine. edit. looks like some guys made custom setups keeping the ac.. this will be my best option.
kaur: (2016-01-27 08:51:35)
thanks, has anyone spent the money or read any reviews on that CXracing kit,? it comes with a new radiator as well, which, if performs as well as the champion, then i may seriously be thinking about it. the shitty part would be no more ac…here in phoenix that could almost make it a deal breaker, since it is going to be for daily driving, i would like to be able to stay comfortable, but at the same time want the best setup for my engine. edit. looks like some guys made custom setups keeping the ac.. this will be my best option.
Make a quick search in the forums and if you take others' opinions for anything then the kit does not appear to be recommendable. There was at least one entire thread about the kit.
edit: like this for example http://z31performance.com/showthread…light=cxracing
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-27 18:09:56)
thanks. not worth using. question answered.
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-27 18:22:22)
why is the injector cooling fan considered worthless? id expect any kind of cooling system would only help here in phoenix with the summers getting as hot as they do. i was planning on cleaning the one i have up from all the dirt and grease on it and installing it with my build. if this is pointless please advise.
secondly, where can i find stock replacement oil cooler lines? cause mine came cut in half in the middle. is there a way to repair that? i do know that there where at least two different size fittings/ hoses.. thanks in advance, sorry for all the noobness
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-27 23:51:36)
just bought the champ rad and the in line 40mm adapter. gunna wait to decide on fan and fan controller once i understand how its gunna fit and be wired up at together to the car. like i said i have a taurus fan im not using, but there might be a better one that fits with a warranty, like the cougar one, i just want to see and know how to wire it all up before i buy it. i want to make sure the two work together/match. i know the hayden temp sensor goes with the adapter, but i dont know for sure how to wire it to which fan.. please advise. sorry if i didnt see this i looked over this post many times..
Urstin: (2016-01-28 17:53:14)
I was pretty confused too before I picked up the Hayden controller, but once you have instructions and the controller in front of you, it's very straightforward. I also made the mistake of mixing up + and - on my fans, so they were pushing air into the radiator rather than pulling (reverse polarity yo), so look out for that [archived image: biggrin.png] I'd suggest the Cougar fans. They look great, and aren't very loud. Also have warranty!
Geoffs86zx: (2016-01-30 17:06:18)
i think that is what im going to do. only 98 bucks. that 73 dollar switch tho, yikes. lol oh well i guess once i pick it up and read the instructions i will have a better understanding. then i can leave my tarus fan on the rad i have for upgrading my pathfinder. thanks. if you do have any pics that show detailed wiring that might help me. i noticed the rats nest but didnt help me much to understand lol.
88sinZ: (2016-01-31 03:05:15)
you can run an E-fan for under $100 with a proper setup
CAG8OR: (2016-09-14 17:40:40)
I read somewhere that the Volvo fan is very similar and maybe the same as the Taurus fan .
I need something that will cover the whole radiator core and be slimmer than the thick Taurus fan. I already have the relays to run the fans. The Mercury Cougar fans look like the best fit for what I need.
The guy from dccontrol.com says that the Cougar fans are low impedence and require a diode or resistor or something to work correctly with the PWM fan controller the he sells. Might be needed for other PWM fan controllers.
Rick:
Good to see you are still here on the board. Can you let me know which controller from DCControls you are using? Do you have a write up on your exact system? I just ordered your fans and the connectors.
Thanks,
Eric
Rick88ss: (2016-09-14 20:45:33)
This is the fan controller I'm using. I forgot if I also bought the temp sensors there too. I use my Microtech ecu to switch on the low speed and a temp sensor for the high speed. When I turn on my a/c it goes to high speed regardless of temp.
https://www.hollisterroad.com/prodde…prod=TM8BA2000
CAG8OR: (2016-09-15 17:52:50)
Oh, you did not use the DC Controls system? Their product looks very nice! Are you happy with the one you are using? I don't think there are configurable digital outputs using my Nistune. I see that you talked with the DC Controls guy, is there are reason you did not chose them? I see the line about the diodes, but that should be easy to sort out, the factory Maxima uses diodes as well.
CAG8OR: (2016-09-15 21:35:38)
After talking with a few guys on the phone, I finally decided on the 125A PCM controller from The AutoCoolGuy. I will keep you posted as to the results.
88sinZ: (2016-09-16 03:56:17)
I'm just here to say WUSSUP RICKSTAXXX?
you fancy cats and your A/C…
CAG8OR: (2016-10-15 12:32:55)
Rick:
Did you fill in all the round open holes in the factory Ford fan housing? Thanks
CAG8OR: (2016-12-02 18:16:22)
I finally have this installed and it looks nice. I did seal up the holes with a suggestion from somebody on here, thanks for the tip. Fuel rail is leaking now so I can't road test.
NewJerseyZ: (2016-12-08 19:08:46)
I kept my original shrouds (upper and lower) and mounted a 16 inch fan radially. It's merely triggered to turn on/off at set temperatures, but also comes on after running to aid in cooldown. There's a clutch on the motor which allows it to freewheel when not powered. So far, no issues with cooling.
CIMG5398.jpg
JSM: (2018-01-13 23:54:59)
I kept my original shrouds (upper and lower) and mounted a 16 inch fan radially. It's merely triggered to turn on/off at set temperatures, but also comes on after running to aid in cooldown. There's a clutch on the motor which allows it to freewheel when not powered. So far, no issues with cooling.
CIMG5398.jpg
Old thread yes but how is this working out for you. This is the exact same idea I had wanted to do.