Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums engine-mechanical-aa/Precision Billet Turbo discussion
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roastin300: (2010-09-20 20:40:51)
I have decided to upgrade from my holset to a Precision Billet. I am thinking a 6262. I am wondering how well this will spool and if it is too small for my goals. I want around 400-450whp with under 18psi. I am probably sticking with stock heads and cams for now. Might do some serious head work over the winter.
For an extra $200 I can go 6765 but I'm afraid of loosing too much spool up.
Now anyone who has experience with the Precision series, chime in. Doesn't have to be on a VG.
NIVO: (2010-09-20 20:45:56)
That is nasty turbo on its own.
can be pushed beyond rated easily and you can see past 680whp
jn1cz: (2010-09-20 22:09:17)
No experience w/ Precision turbos but you can sell me your old setup when you buy the new one :-)
260DET: (2010-09-20 22:19:17)
No experience either but depending on the application a 6262 would seem to be heaps big enough, 5857 should give great response and still deliver the power you want. Let us know, interested in the outcome.
Racinjitter: (2010-09-20 22:39:00)
With my 5857 billet .82 ar turbine I was seeing 23psi at 3800 rpm through the 3" dump. Based on the cars I raced, I was making ~450 whp and 500+ wtq on pump gas. Oh and on 100% stock internals. Boost comes on hard, brake boosting in second would result in instant wheelspin upon release of the brakes.
260DET: (2010-09-21 00:26:13)
23psi at 3800rpm :lol: thats with an open exhaust by the sound of it. What revs would it pull hard too?
DeleriousZ: (2010-09-21 00:28:41)
No experience with precision turbos either, but I do have a billet compressor wheel sitting on my desk at work…
Racinjitter: (2010-09-21 00:29:41)
It would pull hard till about 5800. The stock cams hold it back after that. I would normally shift between 5500 and 6200.
260DET: (2010-09-21 00:41:19)
I'm thinking of a set of 'SATAN spec' 280/280 .50" lift Isky cams, VG33, sound good? Hope I'm not taking this thread off topic, looks like the 5857 may be a viable alternative to the 6262 though.
FlawleZ: (2010-09-21 03:33:34)
I have that exact turbo on my VG currently. Its fantastic. Bump up your gain on your EBC and you'll literally watch the boost rocket to 20lbs in 1 second. My tune is still very conservative and my weak clutch and the car is around 425 RWHP @ 20 lbs. A good friend of mine locally just tuned an SR20 with a 6262 to 475 rwhp and 365 rwtq @ 20 lbs. He also tuned an Evo on the same turbo to 702 AWHP @ 40 lbs.
At 18 lbs, with proper head work and the right cams, I'm confident you could make 450 RWHP. This is a 500 RWHP capable turbo on pump gas. 700+ on race gas.
SATAN: (2010-09-21 03:55:21)
[quote]260DET wrote:
It would pull hard till about 5800. The stock cams hold it back after that. I would normally shift between 5500 and 6200.
I'm thinking of a set of 'SATAN spec' 280/280 .50" lift Isky cams, VG33, sound good? Hope I'm not taking this thread off topic, looks like the 5857 may be a viable alternative to the 6262 though.
To anyone else thinking of running cams that big… don't do it. It is not needed and it is too much of a pain to get them to work right. You can get great results with smaller cams. And its 288/288 and .545" lift. TOO BIG… NOT NEEDED. That and it puts my power band higher than the vg wants to rev anyways.
roastin300: (2010-09-21 16:14:43)
5857 seems kind of small to me. I would rather have turbo for over 600hp but just put down 450whp. Currently my holset gets FULL 17lbs of boost before 4000rpms. I would like to keep it that way however pick up some more power on the same boost level. Im thinking a precision 6262 with a .82 A/R turbine and a V-band flange outlet will be a good choice. 6765 is just too big Im sure.
I AM selling my ENTIRE setup. Check the for sale section. Everything bolt on for a 400rwhp holset setup. On 17lbs the other day, my car was 12 second material at the track. The holset is a good turbo dont get me wrong. Im just looking to push the hell out of the stock internals with a bigger turbo and E85. Im looking for 450rwhp+ on a stock rebuilt bottom end, using E85 and under 20lbs of boost.
Rick88ss: (2010-09-21 16:57:33)
If you want a big turbo and quick spool up,get a Turbonetics twin scroll turbine housing and a QSV.
300zxt: (2010-09-21 21:34:43)
Any photos of the setup? Mounted in stock location?
Racinjitter: (2010-09-21 22:53:47)
I hear what you are saying, but in all reality the pt5857 is larger than the gt35r.
35r on the left.
300zxt, the precision turbos use the same housings from pt5557 all the way up to the pt6765. The main difference being the inner portion where the compressor is. Here is a pt5857 in the stock location.
300zxt: (2010-09-21 23:47:08)
Wow that looks wicked, fitment looks real good too. I was looking at some pricing, and they're like $900! I thought, wow what a score! Then I ticked the ball bearing option, $599 more! hehe Still a good price though at $1500…
DeleriousZ: (2010-09-22 00:41:30)
So it turns out that at work we manufacture the center sections for precision turbo's and assemble them in house.... hmmmmm
roastin300: (2010-09-22 00:48:57)
Wow I didnt realize how big the 5857 was. My buddy runs a 6765 on his BUILT 240sx and the turbo seriously does not physically look large at all. Spool on that 2.4 liter is still not horrible, around 4000-4500 rpms full 15psi. I figure a smaller 6262 on a 3 liter should see a full 15psi by 4000rpm (I would only hope).
These are the turbine options for the 6262 from one distributer online:
T3 4 Bolt .63
T3 4 Bolt .82
T3 5 Bolt .63
T3 V Band .63
T3 V Band .82
T4 TAN V Band .58
T4 TAN V Band .68
V Band Inlet/Outlet .82
Does the "TAN V Band" options imply a divided turbine housing like on the holsets? Meaning a quick spool valve will work on it? If so I will probably go with the T4 TAN V Band .68 and a quick spool valve. I was under the impression that none of the Precisions had an option for a divided turbine scroll?
Keep it going....
DeleriousZ: (2010-09-22 00:55:34)
tan might mean 'tangential'. i haven't actually seen the turbine housings for the precisions, but sometimes turbine housings have on center inlets, and some have tangential inlets… see link below:
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:9EnA … Kw.jpg&t=1
I can't imagine the rest of them have on center style housings though… :-?
Racinjitter: (2010-09-22 01:20:35)
Yes, "tan" does mean tangential. Precision does not make any divorced housings, but there are numerous companies that do make them for the precision turbo line. There is a company out of Chicago that makes them, but I am not certain that they make them in a t3 flange. I can't remember the companies name, but they are big into supras.
Careless: (2010-09-22 02:09:24)
came across the forced performance line of turbos with the wastegate flanges casted into the turbine housing.
wayyyyyyyyyyyyy expensive
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merc … e=Turbo-FP
If anyone knows where to get one of these housings, that would rock. make for a real compact turbo with a nice precision chra and compressor.
Rick88ss: (2010-09-22 02:22:51)
Like I said earlier.....I forgot to include the Precision turbo though.
roastin300: (2010-09-22 04:46:31)
I would love a 6262 with a divorced turbine housing and a quick spool valve. That would be fantastic. I need to do some research on who makes a divorced turbine housing to bolt onto the precision turbo intself....
SATAN: (2010-09-22 14:42:17)
What do you mean by a divorced turbine housing? Do you mean divided maybe?
Just a note on quick spool valves…
We had set up the two step on my car to retard timing and cut spark. This would cause the typical loud "bangs" that you hear on the import drag cars. Because of this, I had to put vice grips on my quick spool valve while at the track to hold it open. If I did not, the "bangs" have so much force, they would have probably blown that valve into the turbine housing. It wouldn't have made it far, but still… ANYWAYS… Using this method, we could only get 10psi on the line for some reason.
We then switched it to just timing retard and never cut spark. This allowed us to build 15psi, but it still took a few seconds to get there. Not good when you are trying to stage at the tree. The whole point of this story though… Since we did not use the coil cut off, there was no more loud "bangs" in the manifolds. This means that I could leave the quick spool valve to operate normally. With the quick spool valve operating like normal, I could build that same 15psi in less than half the time on the line as with it "wired" open! This worked out great as I ended up needing that quicker spool up on the line the very next day.
Quick spool valves… They work great!
FCvg30et: (2010-09-22 15:23:14)
I was seeing 14-15psi by 3300-3400 in 4th gear with my 6262 on the 3.0L. I am getting it up and running on the VG33ER and will post numbers and driving impressions soon.
I do not think that there are divided housings available from precision as of now. I went with the .68a/r T4 and it is great. You will not be dissapointed. Just spend the $$ on the ball bearing option. I think you will like going up to a T4. It helps the V6 breath better IMHO.
Rick88ss: (2010-09-22 15:27:59)
I think Turbonetics sells the twin scroll turbine housing.
If I had to do my setup again , I would definately hook up a QSV
1SickZ: (2010-09-22 17:35:44)
6765
roastin300: (2010-09-22 20:23:13)
Not surprised you said that :twisted:
Rick88ss: (2010-09-22 21:36:54)
Some QSV info:
http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html
Look at the bottom of the page. There is an option for a 1.00 AR and 1.15 AR divided exhaust housing for the 6765 turbo and not the 6262.
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/Pre … _6765/3677
roastin300: (2010-09-23 02:18:09)
Dam I wish I could find the same thing for a 6262, and maybe a little bit smaller A/R on the exhaust. A divided T3 housing at around .80-.90 would be a sealed deal for me if I found it, throw a quick spool valve on and boo ya.
Rick88ss: (2010-09-23 04:58:15)
Actually a 1.00 AR isn't bad because with one side closed off with a QSV it acts like a much smaller AR. Then when the QSV opens up you get full top end potential.
Call them up and see if they make it for the 62 turbine wheel.
On another note....did some street tuning tonight with my 6765 and I was making abot 6 psi by 3500 rpm and climbing fast. That's as high as I went in boost since I'm still breaking in the engine and clutch.
FlawleZ: (2010-09-23 05:16:30)
I personally feel my 6262 is the perfect street turbo. Its an easy 475 rwhp turbo on pump gas and has very snappy spool. I'll try to get a video up sometime this weekend showing RPM vs Boost as I go through 2nd & 3rd gear.
300zxt: (2010-09-23 07:59:33)
What specs did you go with?
http://www.powertune.com.au/6262.html
340ZXTTAZ: (2010-09-24 04:35:40)
[quote]SATAN wrote: [quote=260DET]
It would pull hard till about 5800. The stock cams hold it back after that. I would normally shift between 5500 and 6200.
I'm thinking of a set of 'SATAN spec' 280/280 .50" lift Isky cams, VG33, sound good? Hope I'm not taking this thread off topic, looks like the 5857 may be a viable alternative to the 6262 though.
To anyone else thinking of running cams that big… don't do it. It is not needed and it is too much of a pain to get them to work right. You can get great results with smaller cams. And its 288/288 and .545" lift. TOO BIG… NOT NEEDED. That and it puts my power band higher than the vg wants to rev anyways.
So what is the power band? I bet that motor sounds so awesome in person.
DeleriousZ: (2010-09-24 17:35:28)
6765, divided turbine housing, quick spool valve.
money.
-Strike-: (2010-09-24 18:10:41)
That's what I plan on running when the time comes. It's not that bad of a price, I think around $2000 is about the lowest I've seen for the 6765 Ball Bearing Billet with the divided T4 housing.
I've also been keeping my eyes on Turbonetics with their forged billet wheels, They've released the 64mm, then went back up to the monsterous 122mm and working their way down in size for the new billet wheels. I'm wondering if more will be available by the time I'm ready to buy.
roastin300: (2010-09-24 19:20:33)
On pump gas huh? I feel like it will be difficult to make a reliable 450rwhp on pump. This is why I will be going purely e85 once I install this turbo. I should be able to make 450rwhp on less boost(more timing) and be more reliable....
Im sure I will end up with a 6262 without a quick spool. In this case I might as well stay with a stock manifold....
Im also considering a HX52 Holset with a Quick Spool Valve… 700whp capable
Hitman Z: (2010-09-24 19:42:10)
Well my friends I got in my Z a PT6765 and works real nice.
Chrisw_2003: (2010-09-24 20:11:31)
[quote]roastin300 wrote:
I personally feel my 6262 is the perfect street turbo. Its an easy 475 rwhp turbo on pump gas and has very snappy spool. I'll try to get a video up sometime this weekend showing RPM vs Boost as I go through 2nd & 3rd gear.
On pump gas huh? I feel like it will be difficult to make a reliable 450rwhp on pump. This is why I will be going purely e85 once I install this turbo. I should be able to make 450rwhp on less boost(more timing) and be more reliable....
Im sure I will end up with a 6262 without a quick spool. In this case I might as well stay with a stock manifold....
Im also considering a HX52 Holset with a Quick Spool Valve… 700whp capable
why do you think its hard to make that much power on pump gas? vettes do that easily and all day long, hell even the zr1 puts down a nice chunk of it and they run on pump too. its like what 5xx on 93 oct? a lot more on a little bit more boost. Hennessey made something like 700 on pump with just a pulley change.
Racinjitter: (2010-09-24 21:59:13)
Chris,
When running more than 20psi of boost the intake temps are very high. That coupled with low resistance to knock from 93 octane fuel, you are playing with fire. When is the last time you saw a car running high boost (25+psi) and not run e-85 or race fuel? There is a reason for higher octane ratiings when you add more boost.
roastin300: (2010-09-25 06:46:36)
Exactly. When I made 398rwhp on 18-20psi, I had to pull out a TON of timing. I probably could have made that more safely had I run e85 on 15-16psi with 6-8 degrees more timing under boost.
And you cant compare a henessey or a vette. They make big numbers to begin with and have a much larger displacement. Im sure they are making those numbers on boost levels under 15psi. Its more the amount of boost you are running, hence the compression ratio. I can run 85 octane all day long as long as boost is under 10psi. Once I get to about 15psi on 91 octane, I have to pull a crapload of timing out. I threw a few gallons of e85 in, about a 1/5 mixture of e85 with 91 octane and you wouldnt believe the difference if I told you. By the way the highest octane pump gas here in Colorado is 91, not 93....
Everyone is rollin e85 these days. Its amazing how much abuse you can throw at the motor and not have to worry about detonation, you can keep crankin the boost and timing and it loves it.
300zxt: (2010-09-25 09:42:30)
They recently re-tuned all of the V8 Supercars Championships here in Australia to run E85.
I've just discovered that they're rolling this out here. They're calling it Bio E-Flex, and all the tree huggers are are jerking themselves over it as the future of fuels. There's only about 5 stations in the whole state that sell it currently though.
-Strike-: (2010-09-25 11:52:34)
I'd like to run E85, but I think the nearest station to me is about a 3 hour drive away.
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-09-25 14:29:48)
The bigger the turbo, the more power you can make on a lower octane.
cjr198car: (2010-09-25 14:31:03)
Buy a 5857 with .82 ar. I get full spool around 4000ish rpm (about 20 psi) with a few pre turbo exhaust leaks. The turbo is rated at 605hp and I believe it to be underrated. I purchased the turbo for $799 brand new from modern automotive performance.
The turbo looks physically larger than the 5857 sizing would suggest…
[archived image: 4863972344_ce7765a502_b.jpg]
-Colton
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-09-25 15:24:54)
Nice, any more pics?
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-09-25 15:33:29)
Heres my brothers(FlawleZ) precision billet 6262 in the stock location:
roastin300: (2010-09-25 17:25:02)
Such a beautiful turbo. I hate to hide it down below on the stock manifold. But there is really no reason to build a new manifold if it fits in the stock location.....Does the stock oil return pipe line up correctly to the stock oil pan like many other T3/T4 turbos and the holset does?
SATAN: (2010-09-25 18:21:23)
[quote]Chrisw_2003 wrote: [quote=roastin300]
I personally feel my 6262 is the perfect street turbo. Its an easy 475 rwhp turbo on pump gas and has very snappy spool. I'll try to get a video up sometime this weekend showing RPM vs Boost as I go through 2nd & 3rd gear.
On pump gas huh? I feel like it will be difficult to make a reliable 450rwhp on pump. This is why I will be going purely e85 once I install this turbo. I should be able to make 450rwhp on less boost(more timing) and be more reliable....
Im sure I will end up with a 6262 without a quick spool. In this case I might as well stay with a stock manifold....
Im also considering a HX52 Holset with a Quick Spool Valve… 700whp capable
why do you think its hard to make that much power on pump gas? vettes do that easily and all day long, hell even the zr1 puts down a nice chunk of it and they run on pump too. its like what 5xx on 93 oct? a lot more on a little bit more boost. Hennessey made something like 700 on pump with just a pulley change.
Jack ass… :lol:
Racinjitter: (2010-09-25 18:34:21)
Yes, the stock oil feed and return can be used. I use the stock feed and return lines. I am pretty certain that the stock coolant lines could be used also.
300zxt: (2010-09-26 00:27:59)
[quote]300zxt wrote:
I personally feel my 6262 is the perfect street turbo. Its an easy 475 rwhp turbo on pump gas and has very snappy spool. I'll try to get a video up sometime this weekend showing RPM vs Boost as I go through 2nd & 3rd gear.
What specs did you go with?
Any feedback on the specs? Typically if I were looking at a GT35R it would be with the .82 housing, but would it be more ideal to run the .63 with this turbo for the street? Thoughts?
FlawleZ: (2010-09-26 02:51:07)
[quote]300zxt wrote: [quote=300zxt]
I personally feel my 6262 is the perfect street turbo. Its an easy 475 rwhp turbo on pump gas and has very snappy spool. I'll try to get a video up sometime this weekend showing RPM vs Boost as I go through 2nd & 3rd gear.
What specs did you go with?
http://www.powertune.com.au/6262.html
Any feedback on the specs? Typically if I were looking at a GT35R it would be with the .82 housing, but would it be more ideal to run the .63 with this turbo for the street? Thoughts?
Sorry I haven't been on much lately. It's a 6262 with a .63 A/R hotside T3 V band flange and E compressor housing. When you order it from Precision you can specify exactly how you want the turbo built. I wanted the .68 originally as I assumed it would be the best blend of spool and overall efficiency. However, the .68 was out of stock so I went with the .63. I figured worst case scenario IF I can prove the .63 IS a limitation on my setup, then its as easy as swapping hotsides on the turbo.
I personally don't feel the .63 A/R will limit me reaching my power goals. My power goals are ~450ish on pump and 600ish on race gas. This exact turbo has been proving its potential time and time again here locally. A good friend of mine just tuned an S13 SR20 car with a 6262 to 450 whp on pump gas @ 20 lbs. The same tuner also tuned an Evo IX to 702 AWHP on a 6262.
Careless: (2010-09-26 06:22:49)
that's a fairly wide range considering both are 4 cylinder 2 litres of similar nature. seems like a good all around power producer for a multitude of levels.
good choice!
roastin300: (2010-09-30 17:47:29)
Question about Compressor housing. There are a few options:
TO4E
TO4S
Ported TO4S
I understand the TO4E is a 3" in, 2" out, and the TO4S is a 4" in, 2.5" out.
Is the ported the one with the fancy holes on the inlet? So if I dont choose ported I will just get a normal compressor housing without the "antisurge" holes (I believe thats what they are for)?
FCvg30et: (2010-09-30 18:33:22)
That is correct. I got the ported TO4S for the extra bling factor haha
Racinjitter: (2010-09-30 22:23:44)
It is called anti surge housing. Or in their nomenclature SP (S housing Ported). It depends on your application, a smaller AR on the compressor housing is better for high boost applications, where a large AR on the compressor housing is better for low boost. I recommend the SP housing. I get a bit of surge with my setup.
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-09-30 22:32:12)
Me and my brother(Flawlez) went out yesterday evening and took a couple quick vids of his car doing a 2nd gear pull so you guys can see how his billet 6262 spools. Keep in mind this is 2nd gear, 3rd and 4th gear would provide more load and a little quicker spool. This is on pump gas and about 20PSI of boost, bone stock short block, schneider cams, he could also add a lot more timing in the mid range.
[http://[video=youtube_share;1J1Q2JAcP1c http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1J1Q2JAcP1c[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
[http://[video=youtube_share;P2l9gjVYqf4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2l9gjVYqf4[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
ShamWow: (2010-09-30 22:57:46)
Looks like full pressure occurs at 4400rpm? Am I reading that right? What compression Engine?
I think that would be too laggy for my application. Looks fast though!
Careless: (2010-09-30 23:01:31)
sounds like the tune is a limiting factor. seems to be bogging before hitting any sort of boost.
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-09-30 23:01:44)
Full boost is achieved around 4400RPMs, this is on a 7.8:1 engine. Keep in mind this is 2nd gear, and the gain on the boost controller could still be turned up. In 3rd or 4th gear and if he turned the gain up on the boost controller full bost would probably be achieved by 3900-4000RPMs.
z31t: (2010-09-30 23:51:21)
That turbo spools identical to mine, its as laggy as I would go on a street setup. I'm looking forward to seeing the power you can get out of that 62 62. We have put a few on some 240s around here and they are really imrpessive at 20+psi. Car looks and sounds great flawlez.
shromy: (2010-09-30 23:55:45)
[quote]RedBeauty84ZX wrote:
Looks like full pressure occurs at 4400rpm? Am I reading that right? What compression Engine?
I think that would be too laggy for my application. Looks fast though!
Full boost is achieved around 4400RPMs, this is on a 7.8:1 engine. Keep in mind this is 2nd gear, and the gain on the boost controller could still be turned up. In 3rd or 4th gear and if he turned the gain up on the boost controller full bost would probably be achieved by 3900-4000RPMs.
Could not do it. 3900 ftl unless it turns 8-9k. Well roll racing NM.
FlawleZ: (2010-10-01 04:54:33)
For those of you seeing the powerband as laggy. The tune on my car is NOT even close to done. Its merely a safe driveable tune. I have a bad TPS which is causing a very rich condition under WOT and it completely floods out if I try to maintain acceleration into the next gear as it keeps dumping fuel between shifts. The timing maps are nowhere near optimized especially in the midrange as again, I simply haven't had the time or conditions to properly tune the car. I don't even have a clutch that can hold the power I'm making currently which really isn't much. Maybe 400 RWHP. The other factors to consider are:
7.8:1 motor
2.5" piping + huge ass intercooler
274 Schneider cams
not optimized timing map
not optimized fuel map
gain has lots of headroom on EBC
And pulls were done in 2nd gear
I'll shoot more video later on as I slowly work through and fix the things I need to to get the car where it needs to be.
Rick88ss: (2010-10-01 12:19:31)
What ecu are you running?
300zxt: (2010-10-01 12:27:55)
Nice clips, I dont think the lag is all that bad everything considered.
Stock heads/internals? If you can push the usable powerband over 7,000rpm, getting full boost by 4,000rpm is still real nice!
FlawleZ: (2010-10-01 15:24:04)
I agree.
Heads have mild port. Schneider 274 cams, 110 lb springs. Stock bottom end. Once this thing is all ironed out and I finalize the tune, I'm confident I'll see boost 200-300 RPM's sooner and my powerband will reach as far as 6800 RPM's. This should net to nearly a 3000 RPM range of power which is quite good.
Careless: (2010-10-01 18:39:02)
any reason why this is a particular factor?
wouldn't the large intercooler just get heat soaked less and the small diameter piping require less of a volume to be pressurized?
I'll be running much the same soon and I was just wondering…
FlawleZ: (2010-10-01 19:20:45)
[quote]Careless wrote:
2.5" piping + huge ass intercooler
any reason why this is a particular factor?
wouldn't the large intercooler just get heat soaked less and the small diameter piping require less of a volume to be pressurized?
I'll be running much the same soon and I was just wondering…
The larger intercooler has more total air volume and surface area to be pressurized. Therefore the turbo must work that much harder to overcome the increase in total atmospheric volume which in turn requires that much more air flow from the engine to further spool the turbo. This isn't a huge contributing factor, but it is worth mentioning as every little change adds up.
A lot of people here may look at the spool as being quite laggy in comparison to say a stock or bolt on turbo Z31. The reality is, when you add any intercooler setup to the stock configuration you're going to dramatically increase lag as it was non existent before. Comparing a non intercooled car with the same car intercooled is comparing apples and oranges.
z-flash: (2010-10-01 19:31:33)
This must be the case, because I don't think it's very laggy at all, I like the way it responds in the video.
ShamWow: (2010-10-01 19:54:35)
I think my comment may have come off wrong and I apologize. Just trying to get an idea of if I was reading the gage right.
This powerband looks great for what you use the car for, excellent choice. The boost rise (from threshold to full) is extremely fast; that looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for posting the videos, very helpful.
300zxt: (2010-10-01 19:56:14)
Especially when the factory charge pipe is crazy short to begin with…
260DET: (2010-10-01 23:17:50)
[quote]roastin300 wrote:
Chris,
When running more than 20psi of boost the intake temps are very high. That coupled with low resistance to knock from 93 octane fuel, you are playing with fire. When is the last time you saw a car running high boost (25+psi) and not run e-85 or race fuel? There is a reason for higher octane ratiings when you add more boost.
Exactly. When I made 398rwhp on 18-20psi, I had to pull out a TON of timing. I probably could have made that more safely had I run e85 on 15-16psi with 6-8 degrees more timing under boost.
..................................
Sounds like your static compression ratio is too high if the ignition has to be retarded that much. In which case of course a higher octane fuel will improve the situation.
Careless: (2010-10-01 23:29:18)
I understand that, It's a no brainer. What I'm wondering mostly is how did the intercooler setup differ from your last turbo and did it make that much of a noticeable difference to make mention of it as a strong contributing factor?
For a second, it sounded like you mentioned 2.5 inch piping as though to say you should be running something smaller, as well as a smaller intercooler and you regret this setup's induced lag.
What is your guestimated total piping length anyway, and which IC?
roastin300: (2010-10-02 20:49:59)
Its a little laggy for my taste. I am now considering a HX40 with a 16cm housing and a quick spool valve. I thought it would spool much faster than that. I am sticking with stock cams and heads for now so I need a faster spooling turbo because the stock heads dont flow much over 6500rpm's.
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-10-02 22:47:34)
[quote]Careless wrote:
The larger intercooler has more total air volume and surface area to be pressurized. Therefore the turbo must work that much harder to overcome the increase in total atmospheric volume which in turn requires that much more air flow from the engine to further spool the turbo. This isn't a huge contributing factor, but it is worth mentioning as every little change adds up.
What I'm wondering mostly is how did the intercooler setup differ from your last turbo and did it make that much of a noticeable difference to make mention of it as a strong contributing factor?
FlawleZs old intercooler setup which was I believe was two and a 1/4 inch piping, and a MKIV intercooler. This intercooler setup worked ok, but got heat soaked easy. He made 360WHP/480WTQ with this intercooler setup and his old T3/T4.
His new intercooler setup, two and a 1/2 inch piping, much bigger intercooler:
My brothers last turbo was a T3/T4, 50 Trim compressor with Clipped T3 Turbine Wheel and .63 A/R , his new Precision Turbo Billet 6262 is a noticably larger turbo capable of significantly more power. To put it into perspective his billet 6262 spools just as quick as his T3/T4. His old setup was on bone stock heads and a smaller intercooler/piping setup. With his schneider cams, bigger intercooler and bigger piping he has shifted his powerband roughly 1000RPMs higher in the RPM range then it was before, if he had kept his old setup but just added the 6262 it would have spooled QUICKER then the smaller 50 trim 6262.
With his new setup the pull is much better, the power band has improved and the power dosnt fall off in the high RPMs like it did with the stock heads and T3/T4.
Also were planning on getting a couple more vids this time of pulls in 3rd gear, should show the turbo reaching full boost a little lower in the RPM range.
Hope that puts it into perspective.
roastin300: (2010-10-02 23:24:27)
Nice post. Thanks. Im still worried It will spool too slow for my taste. Especially since I have less RPM's of usable power since my stock heads and cams are done by 6500rpm. If I did headwork and cams and could pull to 7000+ efficiently then I would not be as turned away. Im still lost as to exactly what I want to run. Currently on the top of my list is a HX40 with a 16cm^2 divided housing and a quick spool valve. Measurements of HX40 wheels below, its like a 6064 pretty much lol.
Compressor:
Inducer - 59.84mm
Exducer - 81.76mm
Turbine:
Inducer - 76mm
Exducer - 64.14mm
Note this is the 8 blade compressor wheel. There is a 6, 7, and 8 Blade compressor wheel in the HX40 platforms. The 6 blade flows the most, then 7 blade, then 8 blade flowing the least.
Not trying to stray away from the precision discussion but a little comparitive info on whats out there. Hopefull I can run one of these and get some vids up to see how it spools with a quick spool valve. This turbo is capable of over 500whp and should spool as fast or faster than my hx35, given I run a quick spool valve.
Grr: (2010-10-03 20:14:27)
do you realize that a HX40 is going to spool at least 3-400rpm later than a 6262? Not to mention the shafts breaking in them all the time. A HX35 with a small housing would have similar spoolup to the 6262, this is one of the most efficient turbos out there as far as the blend of spool, efficiency and amount of HP capability.
roastin300: (2010-10-03 21:47:04)
I have a HX35 on my car now and I can tell you it spools quite a bit faster than that 6262 in the video. I get a FULL 17lbs of boost, even in 1st gear before 4000rpm's!!!! An Hx40 will spool a few hundred rpm's slower than that. Put a quick spool valve on it and It should spool as fast or faster than the HX35 I have now does. SATAN threw on a quick spool and picked up 800-900rpm's of spool....
Grr: (2010-10-03 22:37:57)
6262 outspools a HX40 on every application i have seen, which isnt that many as HX40s are garbage. 6262DBB outspools hx35 on all 3 of the peoples cars that I know who have done the swap, and made 30-40hp more at the same boost. That video is crap, gives no indication of its true ability. In fact all the buick v6 guys use the 6265 as it spools within 200rpm of the 6262 and makes even more power. Most people that swap the 6265DBB on have replaced the TE44, which is a 60 trim compressor (58mm) stage 3 turbine (the 5857 replaced this turbo) journal bearing units and noted faster spool times as well.
IMHO if you are spending money on a turbo upgrade for fast spool and big power and you dont buy a GT35, 6262 or 6265 in dual ball bearing you should maybe educate yourself more. Those 3 along with the turbonetics DBB TC line, and the Comp Turbo triple ball bearing Ct3b series are the only turbos out that shine
RedBeauty84ZX: (2010-10-03 22:45:45)
2nd.
Theres no comparison between a billet 6262 and an HX40. billet 6262 > HX40 with quick spool valve.
Matt89: (2010-10-04 00:23:22)
BB turbo's sometimes have issues with shaft wobble at high boost levels due to their full floating bearing design.
But…z31 owners never run high boost so this probably doesnt apply to most on here.
ShamWow: (2010-10-04 03:18:43)
Can someone point me to PTE compressor maps? I specifically searched for the 5557, 5857, and 6262. Maybe I am an idiot?
DeleriousZ: (2010-10-04 04:12:26)
I can ask tomorrow at work if we have them saved, no guarantees i'll remember though.
Racinjitter: (2010-10-04 04:28:23)
Mike, They aren't out there for the public. I will see what I can dig up for you at work. For 5557 look at ~3427 maps, for 5857 look at ~4476 and 6262 look at ~6152. But the 70% efficiency land will extend much further in pressure ratio and lb/min but start at about the same spots.
Oh, I wanted to add that the 5857 with a .82 turbine housing full boost (23psi) in 2nd is 3800, I am was never looking down when in third or fourth, but I imagine that it was within 100rpm of 3800. When these PTxxxx billet turbos come on, it is like getting shot out of a cannon. If I were to switch to a .63 housing full boost would be about 400 rpm sooner.
[http://[video=youtube_share;7gNJQxG0BbA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gNJQxG0BbA[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
and the boost/dyno mapping in 4th gear through STOCK axle back exhaust. Light blue line is boost pressure.
Exhaust open…
[http://[video=youtube_share;iqwg44C1wYU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqwg44C1wYU[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
Dyno plot open Vs. closed.
Careless: (2010-10-04 04:32:25)
define: "high boost levels"
FlawleZ: (2010-10-04 05:40:33)
I don't have time right now to address much of what was said and in question, but I would like to reiterate the 3 main things on my car that greatly affect the spool of this turbo.
1. 274 Schneider Cams
2. LOW timing in the mid range
3. 7.8:1 motor
I really can't stress enough I simply did this video to show what I had currently have and experience. Take this with a grain of salt considering my car is not even close to 100%.
Careless: (2010-10-04 06:08:03)
all things considered, where do you see it starting to hit full boost by when everything is said and done and it's tuned to your liking?
4400 rpm is a little lazy, but its no question the turbo has much more left in it after the engine's been wrung out to the highest you'll take it.
FlawleZ: (2010-10-04 13:39:42)
[quote]Careless wrote:
I don't have time right now to address much of what was said and in question, but I would like to reiterate the 3 main things on my car that greatly affect the spool of this turbo.
1. 274 Schneider Cams
2. LOW timing in the mid range
3. 7.8:1 motor
I really can't stress enough I simply did this video to show what I had currently have and experience. Take this with a grain of salt considering my car is not even close to 100%.
all things considered, where do you see it starting to hit full boost by when everything is said and done and it's tuned to your liking?
4400 rpm is a little lazy, but its no question the turbo has much more left in it after the engine's been wrung out to the highest you'll take it.
With this 7.8:1 motor, like I said on page 4, I'm confident I can see full boost by ~4000 rpm. Boost comes on even quicker in 3rd and 4th of course but my clutch slips so its pointless.
Also, you guys are aware that my 6262 is a journal bearing 6262, right?
Careless: (2010-10-04 15:19:20)
did not even know they were available with a journal bearing.
any reason besides cost? rebuild-ability is cheaper/easier?
roastin300: (2010-10-04 17:21:52)
Not buying a BB turbo. Cannot afford it. It will be a JOURNAL bearing turbo. So compare to that if you want to compare. And this is what is in the video in this thread, a journal bearing 6262.
Grr: (2010-10-04 17:43:02)
journal bearing 6262 will still FAR outspool a hx40, they spool almost exactly the same initially as a hx35, but have a faster overall pressure rise after the threshold
roastin300: (2010-10-04 19:37:59)
How about a HX40 with a quick spool? Do you understand that a quick spool does what its intended for? As I said SATAN picked up 900 rpm of spool.
Grr: (2010-10-04 20:38:05)
I have a quick spool on a triple ball bearing 67mm q trim 2jz, i know how they work. I did a quick spool project on my turbo LS1 buck GN 5 years ago. I would still take a journal 6262 over any type of hx40, spool valve or not, period
How much you looking to spend? I can get Comp Turbo triple ball bearing billet 6262 for around $1000 if you want one, most advanced turbo on the market, fastest spool hands down
300zxt: (2010-10-04 20:39:27)
Oh sweet, I wasn't! lol This turbo is real wicked then!
.63 A/R, E Housing, ball bearing 6262 = full boost at 3,800rpms @ 25lbs! :P
ShamWow: (2010-10-04 22:55:34)
Not to delineate from the 6262 goodness.... but I wanted to get some information on the smaller precisions. No-one will likely care, but these two are probably better sized for road race/drift/auto-x. The goal for these applications is always response and spool. Power is nice too, but 53-60lb/min with a powerband from 3200-7k sounds like enough for me.
So far we have RacinJitter's dyno chart, showing 23psi at 3800rpms. Keep in mind that his 5857 is a .82AR housing, journal bearing turbo. I have searched the interwebs, here is what I have found. Questions outlined below:
PTE5857:
Compressor Inducer 58mm billet wheel
Compressor Exducer 74.9mm
.70 a/r Compressor Cover
Turbine Inducer 65mm
Turbine Exducer 57mm
~60.5 lb/min flow
PTE5557:
Compressor Inducer 55mm billet wheel
Compressor Exducer 74.9mm
.70 a/r Compressor Cover (?)
Turbine Inducer 65mm
Turbine Exducer 57mm
~54 lb/min flow
Questions:
1.) Why is PTE's website so retarded? There is little to no information. No compressor maps, nothing. No wonder these are just now becoming popular.
2.) Why would anyone buy a 5557 over a 5857.
-After doing some research, the turbine is the same, only a smaller compressor on the 5557.
-Can't see anything saying it will spool faster… Just that it flows less (54lb/min vs. 60.5lb/min)
3.) Why don't they offer twin scroll housings? Seems really lame when one can be had for every other competitor (HTA 3076R, BW S200, etc). The VG manifolds are setup for this right from the factory… I would want to take advantage of it.
Racinjitter: (2010-10-04 23:20:59)
PTE's website has not been updated in years. They don't have a lot of their own current products even listed. Here is a list of more billet wheel turbo's from PTE. They finally made some "drifter" turbos.
Turbine diameter is on the right column.
OK85ZX: (2010-10-04 23:24:12)
The lack of a twin scroll housing option is very strange indeed. If anyone has a reliable/cheapish source for these, would you mind posting them here? Just for future reference of the thread. (If it has been posted already feel free to kick me in the shins).
roastin300: (2010-10-05 02:13:48)
WOW. Consider it sold if you can get it for me for that price! Can I PM you so we can move forward with this? Thanks man. I believe the BB would spool much better but never considered it since its out of my budget. And I have not heard of a triple BB turbo, only dual BB. And searching I have never seen a triple BB 6262 for sale?
Racinjitter: (2010-10-05 02:17:11)
The triple was still in development AFAIK… But I do know that the oil cooled BB turbos are out finally.
roastin300: (2010-10-05 02:19:51)
Also for those wondering (including me), Is there anything special to watch out for when running a BB turbo? As far as not wanting to run an oil restrictor or wanting to run an oil restrictor on the oil feed? Is it ok to run it without a water jacket like I always have on my past journal bearing turbos? Also should you be more careful to let it warm up and cool down before and after hitting boost?
Grr: (2010-10-05 02:56:13)
Comp Turbo makes the triple bearing turbos. They are far superior to the garrett or precision offerings as they use 3 angular bearings and no standard thrust like the standard round rollers the others use. The main load and drag component of a turbo in boost is the thrust surface, this friction is also what induces shaft wobble.
The other thing is they use a machined billet aluminum cartridge rather than cast iron, making them about 1/3 the weight without the turbine housing. AND, they use a bearing cartridge assembly that is easily removed by taking out 1 snap ring, and replacing the assembly by just sliding a new one in. They even have a oil-less turbo that will be out in the spring, testing is just about done on that one. It uses a high temp grease and water cooling so no oil lines need to be run.
Finally all their casting and machining is done in house, they arent just an assembly line for garrett parts like most companies. On the turbine side, they use smaller diameter wheels that have no trim, they are just one size. These wheels flow more than a stepped wheel, and the lighter weight makes them spool just as fast. For instance their 67mm Q-trim will make around 40whp more than a garrett 67mm Q-trim and have a lower backpressure ratio. This along with the ball bearing center allows you to go up a minumum of one size, often two and retain the spoolup but an obvious large increase in power and lower temps. new site just got put up and alot of the links are wrong yet, but if you want more info on the company go here
roastin300: (2010-10-05 03:12:06)
Weird. These turbos have ALOT of different approaches than ANY other manufacturer I have ever seen! So you run one of these on your 2jz? I have never heard about this company from anyone except you. Also their sizing is slightly confusing. And they also call it a BB turbo but they dont actually use ball bearings they say… And not having a stepped turbine wheel? That is just odd. What about the compressor wheel? Is it stepped?
Careless: (2010-10-05 03:15:26)
It's hard to classify the bearing type because it's not a journal bearing, it's not a ball bearing, and it's not a needle bearing… so easiest is just to use the ball bearing nomenclature to let people know that's the class it falls in.
Grr explained in his post it's an angle bearing.
Grr: (2010-10-05 04:07:14)
They use a tapered bearing, like a wheel bearing. I dont personally run this on my car, i bought the 3582r that was on the 2jz when i did the upgrade for him. It is a 67mm q-trim with a 1.0ar divided housing and a spool valve. Its crazy, on the logs if you floor it at 4000rpm it goes from 5inHG to 25psi in .4 seconds. rolling into it in 5th it goes to 25psi by 2800rpm
We did a build with a forged 7m this spring and a 74mm MX-trim, which is HUGE for a street 3.0L. That setup was a .81 open housing and it did 26psi at 4400, from the testing we were doing it was around 650whp at 26psi with stock cams.
If you want to go that route, they build to order so it takes a little longer, but I recommend the 6262 TBB with a .82 housing. I will get you a price on that this week.
Careless: (2010-10-05 04:33:12)
and in the case where mike is looking for a road race type turbo that's a little more responsive?
i'm looking for something similar. Ideally around 400whp… maybe a touch less.. but i want it to be there almost all the time.
roastin300: (2010-10-05 06:10:18)
Dam, from reading and hearing your reviews I am becoming inclined towards these turbos. I am thinking a 6262 billet TBB with a divided T4 housing and a quick spool valve. Probably the .71 A/R turbine. Im building a drivers side manifold, so I can fit it all....
260DET: (2010-10-05 06:21:06)
If you can do a billet BB turbo for $1000 Grr you may have a few customers, me included for my road course VG33. Power to 7000rpm with the emphasis on the mid range above 3000rpm, internal gate. Corner exit acceleration is everything.
Grr: (2010-10-05 16:02:22)
will have a price for you sometime today for a basic 6262 TBB, the 58-70mm turbos are within about $150 of each other
Crusherbait: (2010-10-06 02:05:59)
Hey guys-
I hate to intrude, but I have one small/easy question I hope.
John-
Some how I missed why you want to move away from the HX35. Can you tell me why? It seems like it has some more potential with a higher pressure ratio according to some maps Iâve looked at. Care to explain what I'm missing?
Thanks,
John
roastin300: (2010-10-06 04:33:01)
I feel the HX35 12cm^2 turbine housing is limiting my capabilities over 18psi. With a standalone, bigger injectors, I could make a solid 400whp, however, I want a little more power than this and also just want to upgrade for the sake of building something new on my car. I want to try something new. I have been running the HX35 for 4 years. Its a killer turbo, but Im ready for something different, just for fun.
roastin300: (2010-10-06 17:47:43)
Contacted them personally. After discussing it with them, we are working on a deal where I run the turbo, and post up my thoughts on it on the forums and also my local car meets and drag racing events. I would do this anyways, but I am getting a good deal on one. I have settled....This is what I am getting folks:
Billet 6262 Turbo
polished compressor housing w/ 4" inlet and surge ports
Billet aluminum Triple Ball Bearing center section
Watercooled? Not sure yet
0.71 A/R DIVIDED T4 Turbine housing with a Quick Spool Valve!
3" V-Band Outlet
SATAN: (2010-10-06 19:14:53)
Unless there is something I don't know about Precision turbo's, it has to be water cooled if it is a ball bearing turbo. BB turbo's run oil restrictors in them. For this reason, there is not enough oil flowing through the turbo to actually cool it, just lube it is all. This is why they have to be water cooled.
Grr: (2010-10-06 19:55:15)
post up your price you are paying, i sell for just over my cost so im curious. or PM it to me
They are water cooled, in the spring they are releasing the new oil-less center section that only has water cooling and NO OIL LINES!! Thats gonna be a massive step forward for packaging and location.
You are gonna love that thing. I put a new ATI balancer on the 2jz last night cause the stock one exploded last month, and took it out for a drive. Its sick, like driving a big block car there really isnt any lag at all. We made 560whp at 22-23psi first time on the dyno, and the power was going straight up with ever pound of boost!
roastin300: (2010-10-06 20:26:33)
Bad ass. So they are all watercooled? That's fine if you guys recommend it. I will have to ask him what he recommends as far as watercooling and the oil restricoer.
I will PM you the price. Not sure if he wants me to advertise my discount for the advertisement and sponsorship he is giving me.
Grr: (2010-10-06 20:36:28)
they are all water cooled, have to be. They also come with the appropriate oil restrictor. These turbos only use a couple drops of oil per second. So you will need to get a block fitting and run a -3 AN line to it.
260DET: (2010-10-06 21:36:27)
So we are talking Comp Turbo's now? Start a new thread? Because I'm interested in an internally gated Comp CT4-5862 billet which supports up to 690hp. Alternativly go with a non billet 6262 and external gate too which I assume has a bigger (62) compressor than the 5862.
roastin300: (2010-10-06 23:32:55)
Were talking similarly sized Billet turbos that all these manufacturers are jumping on the bandwagon with.
87TurboZ: (2010-10-15 17:05:08)
I havent heard anything on the precision 6265 anyone have any input on this? Im looking at selling my gt30 and going bigger… Theres a billet 6265 on craigslist in my area for a good price
roastin300: (2010-10-15 18:19:12)
Well, its going to spool a little slower than the 6262. But its capable of more power. If your shooting for big numbers this is a better option than the 6262
Rick88ss: (2010-10-15 18:32:00)
I'm going to the dyno tonight and see how much power my Precision billet 6765 makes at 18-20psi of boost and 93 octane.
87TurboZ: (2010-10-15 18:35:35)
Well this one will go on a built 3.0 ported heads schneider cams satan exhaust mani. Im shooting for the 600hp range but dont wanna have a laggy setup
Rick88ss: (2010-10-16 04:27:30)
It made 447 rwhp/ 451 rwtq at about 21 psi.
It made 415 rwhp at 15psi.
Not bad but I thought it was gonna be at least 475 rwhp.
I was using the stock radiator and after each run the water temp was up to 212 F so I need a better radiator.
Frank from WWR said I could make more power if I had 274 cams instead of the JWT S2 264 cams.
Overall I'm happy with the power it made. On the street when the boost kicks in the Nitto drag radials break loose a bit before they grab.
I wonder what it'll make on E85 and 28psi? :twisted:
roastin300: (2010-10-16 04:54:46)
NICE man! That's alot of power on 15psi. Is this a VG33? Fully built with headwork, valve grind and cams? Also is this corrected or uncorrected? Good numbers. I hope my 6262 will do close to 500whp corrected on 25psi on stock heads and cams with e85 and a bunch of timing.
Careless: (2010-10-16 05:03:17)
nice hp figure but I thought the tq would be a heck of a lot higher.
racingzx: (2010-10-16 16:02:24)
Congrats Rick. Those are good numbers for pumpgas and those small cams. Did you use meth injection? Enjoy the new found power, change cams and go back for high boost :twisted:
B.t.w., can you post the dynograph in the dyno section?
Rick88ss: (2010-10-16 17:21:37)
just pump gas. No meth injection.
Next is install my 1200cc injectors and fill with E85 and up the boost.
I still have to sort out a few issues before I do that.
As far as the cams go....if I have to tear into the engine I'll change them,but for now the S2 cams are fine.
When I got home I realized that they didn't print out the highest run on the dyno.I gotta call them up or go by there and get a print out of the highest dyno run. :-D
How's your Z coming along?
ZFast88Z: (2010-10-16 20:39:45)
30 horsepower on a 6psi increase?
Seems very light for a 6765.
roastin300: (2010-10-17 03:07:34)
1200cc injectors? Those are huge, how much power are you shooting for? Thats good for 800hp+ on e85 on a V6
Rick88ss: (2010-10-17 19:16:09)
dyno videos
This video shows the Z on the dyno and the computer screen at the end that shows a few dyno runs with the hp and tq numbers
[http://[video=youtube_share;fIukzqLQafQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIukzqLQafQ[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
this video shows the boost gauge,oil pressure, and wideband during a 21-22 psi run. Too bad the tach isn't shown but full boost was about 4000-4200 rpm.
[http://[video=youtube_share;YaMELSe_Tqw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaMELSe_Tqw[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
Rick88ss: (2010-10-17 19:19:52)
Hopefully 550hp. Maybe I over did it with the fuel pump. It's a Magnafuel 4303
roastin300: (2010-10-17 19:56:05)
Im running 660cc injectors on e85 and hoping for close to 500whp. I can bump base fuel up if needed to get more out of them. 1200cc injectors are HUGE, overkill. But they will be there if you ever wanna make big big power.
300zxt: (2010-10-18 09:23:13)
Picture of my new PT6262!
Specifications:
Precision Turbo 6262
E Housing (3.0" Intake / 2.0" Outlet) - Not ported but slightly quicker spool than SP housing according to Precision Turbo
T3 V-BAND 0.63A/R
Dual Ceramic Ball-Bearing
It also came with a bit of paper with the following on it.
Looks sweet as! [archived image: smile.png]
300zxturboftw: (2010-10-18 15:44:32)
Sweet! Can't wait for my turbo to arrive in a few weeks!
260DET: (2010-10-19 03:13:58)
Nice looking turbo, are we going to see a dyno sheet including engine RPM in due course?
300zxt: (2010-10-19 05:28:44)
Yup!
There's still quite a bit of machine work to do on the motor as yet, but it's all coming together…
FlawleZ: (2010-10-21 20:36:59)
[quote]Rick88ss wrote:
30 horsepower on a 6psi increase?
Seems very light for a 6765.
That's what I'm thinking. :-?
Sounds like the tune. Maybe pulling a lot of timing as the load increased beyond 15 lbs.
Careless: (2010-10-22 05:23:26)
what kind of power can i see with a vg33 with ported heads, 9:1 comp, and a PT5557.
not looking for any astronomical number. just a rough XXXwhp @ XX psi, if anyone has a way of calculating.
only thing- it's a .70 & .48 A/R
260DET: (2010-10-22 06:55:22)
Might be an idea to wait for the real figures eh C.
roastin300: (2010-10-22 14:43:37)
.48? Thats the size of the turbine housing? I wouldnt waste your time with that turbo if thats the case
Careless: (2010-10-22 16:50:21)
it was on ebay for 500 bucks. the turbine housing can be replaced for 200 bucks. so it would be 3 or 400 bux less than retail.
whatever, not doing it now anyways- concentrating on front mount.
ShamWow: (2010-10-23 02:23:32)
roastin300: (2010-10-23 02:53:01)
Well....Comp Turbo is no longer wanting to give me a good deal on a turbo. I must have misunderstood him or he just changed his mind. But the pricing is WAY above my budget. I really want to run a quick spool or it would be pointless for me to build a manifold, go top mount turbo and re plumb all that crap with a turbo blanket and heat wrap. If it has a T3 flange and is undivided I might as well install it in the stock location. So precision 6262(not divided) is out of the question as well as the compturbo 6262(Too expensive). I am probably going with a HX40 or HX52 with a divided housing and a quick spool. I need to keep the turbo price way under $1000.
300zxturboftw: (2010-10-23 04:55:09)
If you are talking turbo price alone under $1000 there are SO many options. All journal bearing turbo's are ~ $800 for what you are looking for about up to ~ 70mm or maybe even ~ 66mm for that price. Most of the housings are divided as well.
If you are looking for a set-up for under $1000, then hahahahahah…good luck with that lol. The top mount and turbo I just picked up was over that alone, not to mention I probably have to have another 600-1000 thrown into fuel then 500 into Nistune. After I'm making ~ 500rwhp I won't even be able to use it until I get wider tires and suspension too lol.
If you are on a budget, just do it like everyone else. T3/T4/ Holset w/ stock manifold, nistune and fuel. Will put you to probably 400 + hp on a budget no problem.
DavidA: (2010-10-23 11:55:11)
YES!!! Go holset. You have been talking about the HX52 for a while now. You know you want to :twisted:
hypcodiiihop: (2010-10-23 12:54:13)
Don't know how soon you're looking to buy, but my HX40 will be for sale in the near future. probably 2 months max.
I'm switching a few things up after I see how the holset runs, I'm just keeping it on there for now to satisfy my curiosity. Its getting ditched for sure though.
It'll only have 4-500 miles on it and pump gas boost. :lol:
Bernardd: (2010-10-23 22:52:13)
If roastin doesn't want it I'd be interested. Can you post up or pm me the specs on it?
hypcodiiihop: (2010-10-24 12:22:50)
7 blade, 60mm inducer, 2.5" outlet , 4 inch v-band exh. outlet, 19cm^ hotside. T4.
[archived image: RAWR234.jpg]
Careless: (2010-10-24 15:12:38)
1.37 A/R hotside?! :-?
Bernardd: (2010-10-24 15:58:29)
2
Crusherbait: (2010-10-24 20:11:16)
In your case, a hx40 would be my choice. Quick spool or not, IMHO the hx52 wouldn't score very well in the street fun factor aspect due to it's size and your current displacement.
Maybe take a look at this:
http://diesel-plus.com/dd_turbo.cfm?npid=10220
Then wait for SEMA. My guess would be that BW/Airwerks are going to introduce some new products.
hypcodiiihop: (2010-10-24 23:39:51)
depends on your definition of full boost, it'll make 15 by 3700 on my car, but once I get everything lined out it'll be running 24-25psi on pump gas, close to 30 on VP.
I'll have videos, numbers, and details when I get some things done with it, I've just stopped updating anything I do with my car until I get things finished up. I'll let you know.
And yes careless, thats what it comes out to. 1.37 A/R
I'm rather sure once I get done tuning for pump gas and get more timing in it I'll have 20psi by 4200.
roastin300: (2010-10-24 23:46:10)
Ya I would consider the HX40 you have. I really want a 16cm housing though instead of a 19 but can always try it out or swap for a 16cm later. Also Im pretty sure the compressor does not have a 60mm inducer. I think its 56mm. And there are 3 different HX40 compressors: 6 blade, 7 blade and 8 blade. The 6 blade flows the most, then 7 blade, then 8 blade. Let me know what you want for the turbo and also how it performs as far as spool and power.
hypcodiiihop: (2010-10-25 00:31:14)
I was hoping you'd post in here roastin, you're the only other dude I know besides me that has went threw a few HX40 ideas/had them in our hands and Z's.
my turbo is the 8 blade, which is why for such a large T4 hot side it spools decently quick.
I'm with you, if I was gonna keep it I'd switch to the 16cm hot side, it'll still flow enough for well over 500 on moderate boost and spool much better.
I feel like I do remember measuring my compressor though, and I know there ARE 60mm 8 blade compressors, they are just rare. Its been so long since I was brushed up on the laundry list of holset variations I'll have to measure which I'll gladly do when I pull it off to put on the replacement BB turbo I'm using.
And for the record holset V-bands aren't true 4 inch for anyone else reading, they use a holset specific flange with a different lip thats slightly smaller than 4".
I actually use a 3" downpipe and rolled it out on the end to meet the diameter of the slightly less than 4" exhaust outlet of the HX40.
The V bands lip is 4", the outlet itself is 3.7ish.
Regardless, there isn't an HX40 combo that won't make 400 easily on low boost levels well under there efficiencies, and like roastin said, the 6, 7, and 8 blade are your choices for compressor. 6 being highest flowing, 7 being the in between, and 8 being the best for spool but will choke slightly up top for big HP depending on your definition of such.
this thread just got hijacked all to shit, my bad.
roastin300: (2010-10-25 19:14:16)
For how big the turbine wheels and housings on the HX40 are, I really wish the compressors were slightly larger. I am now considering a Journal bearing Garret brand T67 with 0.70 A/R T4 turbine divided with V-band outlet and a quick spool valve. I am stock on a T4 divided turbine with a home made quick spool valve. Just have to decide what brand and size compressor I want to go with it.
roastin300: (2010-10-26 15:48:12)
The Hx40 on ebay for sale remanufactured says it has a 56mm Compressor and a 65mm turbine. This is less than ideal in my book.
Another source on a DSM forum was saying that the HX40 has either a 58 or a 60mm compressor. I wish someone could just take measurements and setlle this uncerntainty.
hypcodiiihop: (2010-10-26 18:39:14)
I'll do it this weekend bruh, I moved 2 weeks ago so I'm only back home where my car is on the weekends right now finishing it up.
PM me and remind me, PM's show up on my email so my phone will let me know. lol
300zxt: (2010-10-28 02:24:03)
Getting back on track (and away from el' cheapo truck turbos) lol jokes!
Here is the Powertune Australia's S15 with SR20 running the PT6765.
[http://[video=youtube_share;ysw2A572EvY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysw2A572EvY[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]
Pretty wild ride for only 4 fires… These turbos are only just creeping onto the tuning scene here, as we've only just recently got an Australian dealer for Precision. There's a few S15's and now some GTRs kicking around with Precision Turbos with good results.
300zxt: (2010-10-28 23:20:49)
I got sent this from Precision Turbo after seeking some more information regarding the deletion of watercooling from their new BB turbos…
Advantages of Precision Turbo Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbochargers
Uses dual ceramic ball bearings, as opposed to steel bearings (ceramic is a more heat tolerant material, so there is no need for water-cooling provisions)
Just some points to consider: Ceramic Hybrid bearings have much harder balls and races attributing to itâs lower rolling resistance, higher heat tolerance, and longer life. Ceramic ballsâ deviation from true circularity is much less than steel balls, which results in greatly reduced vibration in the bearing.]
- Do not need to run water lines
- Ease of installation (will drop into any existing kit built around a T-series platform)
- Units come standard with a built-in oil feed restrictor fitting
- Units are fully rebuildable with component parts. This allows for less costly rebuilds in the event of an incident.
- We are providing a better product at no additional charge
FAQ
Are these units more vulnerable to heat soak without the water cooling option? Do we have to worry about oil coking?
Assuming that you are using clean, filtered oil that is changed every 3,000 miles, there should not be any issues. Water cooling was introduced only at the request of OEs to meet demands of longer oil change intervals. A properly designed air cooling approach combined with the best bearing materials available allows us to do away with all of the cluttered water cooling lines.
Do they spool any better than the water cooled, T-series CHRAâs (IE less bearing drag)?
Although a Hybrid ceramic ball bearing has much less rolling resistance than a steel ball bearing, a difference in transient response will rarely be noticed by âseat of the pants.â
How is the durability versus the water-cooled T-series CHRA?
Hybrid ceramic bearings last up to 5 times longer than steel ball bearings in the same environment.
Are these full ceramic ball bearings or coated bearings?
Hybrid ceramic. Steel races with silicon nitride balls.
Is there a weight difference between our CHRA and the T-series?
There is probably a minimal difference in CHRA weight, but when you remove all the water lines and fittings, there will be a significant overall weight savings.
The reason that we donât need a restrictor fitting is becauseâ¦?
The bearing housing has built in âoil passages.â We can say that in 2 years of rigorous testing, we have not had one fail or leak oil.
So it's all about having hard balls! lol
roastin300: (2010-10-29 16:41:55)
Well....my search is over. I sacked up and dropped the big bucks and went with a Comp Turbo 6262 Triple Ball Bearing, Billet aluminum center section, ceramic compressor wheel instead of billet compressor wheel(cheaper by $200), Anit-surge housing, 0.70 A/R Divided T4 turbine housing with V-band outlet, and I'm building a drivers side manifold and building my own quick spool valve(after SATAN helps me on the design :twisted: ). I will be posting up a review with spool times, power, hopefully some video and lots of pictures, dyno #'s and track times by next spring. Stay tuned.
Rick88ss: (2010-10-31 02:38:40)
sounds like a sweet turbo.
Who has the best price on a Precision billet 6262?
Anybody?
Racinjitter: (2010-10-31 04:16:34)
I bought mine for 725 shipped with v bands.
T3 .63 or .82 A/R V-Band (4-bolt or 5-bolt available, please specify upon ordering)
OR
T4 .58 or .68 A/R 3" V-Band
Compressor Wheel: Inducer 2.285" (58mm) Exducer 3" (76.19mm)
Turbine Wheel: Inducer 2.555" (64.89mm) Exducer 2.227" (57mm)
85NA2T: (2010-11-03 23:03:55)
Ill be purchasing a 6262 journal bearing in next few weeks.The last turbo i had was a .82a/r hot side with 5 bolt outlet but they dont offer the .82a/r in the 5 bolt out,only.63.My question is when does the .63 become a restriction?Will the .63 be able to keep building power up to that rpm? Im kinda forced to get the .63 or else make a little adapter for the v-band.Plan on spinning the engine to 7200rpm.Im using Isky mega hydraulic grind with .485 lift and 280/270 duration.P&P heads and lower intake.Gutted stock plenum.Stock manifolds with SATAN relocation pipe.
roastin300: (2010-11-04 02:22:47)
I wouldnt use a .63 with heads that flow that good. I went 0.70 T4 platform. A similar sized T4 turbine outflows a T3 platform. I think 0.82 is a good choice. Im sure there are plenty of companies out there with a 0.82 6262 in stock. I think thats going to start to become a restriction after 400whp. You can squeeze more out, but you will make the 500hp your after much easier with the 0.82 AR Turbine.
Rick88ss: (2010-11-04 02:34:14)
But don't they only offer the .63 and .68 T4 exhaust housing for the 6262?
85NA2T: (2010-11-04 02:50:41)
Does anyone make a .82 housing with 5 bolt out?
300zxt: (2010-12-01 10:32:55)
Only a dummy fit but clearance looks good! [archived image: smile.png]
Careless: (2010-12-01 16:34:13)
oooo purdy [archived image: redface.png]
DeleriousZ: (2010-12-01 16:41:56)
I love how they just milled down a turbine housing meant for a 4 bolt flange and made a v-band out of it.
Careless: (2010-12-01 16:47:52)
it's most likely casted with extra metal that needs machining whether it's a 4 bolt or a v-band.
effective production costs savings = smart people behind the product.
roastin300: (2010-12-01 19:57:04)
300zxt: What size turbo is that? 6262?
300zxt: (2010-12-01 21:05:48)
Yup sure is!
Spy the big mofo Turbosmart Wastegate too…
roastin300: (2010-12-02 05:19:26)
Didnt know you could get them with a 3" inlet compressor housing with no anti-surge....hmmm, should make intake plumbing easier if you plan on a pull through setup. Nice nice man. Power goals?
300zxt: (2010-12-02 08:46:18)
Yeah it's the "E Housing" option and I think matches to my setup pretty much perfectly and as you say will be easier to do the plumbing for.
My power goals are fairly modest to start at around 350rwkw/470rwhp as a solid street weapon, any more will be a bonus at this stage but no doubt I will want to hit 400rwkw plus eventually! [archived image: smile.png]
Rick88ss: (2010-12-02 14:26:01)
At how much boost do you think you'll make that much power (470 whp)?
I'm guessing about 22psi.
roastin300: (2010-12-02 15:54:21)
With built heads and a good shortblock I am going to guess it will take 23-24psi on a VG30 and 20-21 on a VG33. Also depends largely on what type of dyno (Dynojet, Dyno Dynamics, Mustang dyno, etc) as well as corrected or uncorrected numbers. For sake of saying a dynojet and corrected numbers, I feel it will take as much boost as I stated to achieve those numbers…
300zxt: (2010-12-02 20:47:00)
Yeah I was picking about early to mid 20lbs… Heads are fully built and I've gone a bit overboard on everything else so lets see! lol
FlawleZ: (2010-12-03 06:20:38)
Awesome! Looks identical to mine. You have a PM.
300zxt: (2010-12-05 03:13:58)
Yeah the fitment is great huh? There is a good amount of room either side, I was quite impressed. Looks like it was made for it almost!
Rick88ss: (2011-02-09 17:41:57)
So has anybody put their 6262 on the dyno? How much power @ what boost?
roastin300: (2011-02-10 06:29:29)
I will be on E85 on March 26th. Planning on an 18psi and a 24psi pull. Hoping for over 400whp on low boost and over 450whp on high boost
Rick88ss: (2011-02-10 13:25:41)
hopefully. Good luck. Keep us posted.
FCvg30et: (2011-02-10 15:48:26)
VG33ER (8.5:1) with BB 6262 full T4 made 325hp and 377ft/lbs at 12-13psi. This was with a misfire 4500rpm and up, so hp suffered.
I'm ditching the Megasquirt 2 with Ford wasted spark for Megasquirt 3 and will be running full sequential fuel and ignition with LS2 truck coils. Hope to have some new numbers soon to share.
Rick88ss: (2011-02-10 18:28:05)
[quote]FCvg30et wrote:
So has anybody put their 6262 on the dyno? How much power @ what boost?
VG33ER (8.5:1) with BB 6262 full T4 made 325hp and 377ft/lbs at 12-13psi. This was with a misfire 4500rpm and up, so hp suffered.
I'm ditching the Megasquirt 2 with Ford wasted spark for Megasquirt 3 and will be running full sequential fuel and ignition with LS2 truck coils. Hope to have some new numbers soon to share.
Not bad.
So what was causing the misfire? What are you using for crank position....the stock CAS, toothed trigger wheel, or magnets on the main pulley?
260DET: (2011-02-11 07:05:19)
[quote]FCvg30et wrote:
So has anybody put their 6262 on the dyno? How much power @ what boost?
VG33ER (8.5:1) with BB 6262 full T4 made 325hp and 377ft/lbs at 12-13psi. This was with a misfire 4500rpm and up, so hp suffered.
I'm ditching the Megasquirt 2 with Ford wasted spark for Megasquirt 3 and will be running full sequential fuel and ignition with LS2 truck coils. Hope to have some new numbers soon to share.
Dyno chart showing RPM's please and pics of the trigger/sensor setups. Mine are about done, SYNC is set up on the left cam gear.
FCvg30et: (2011-02-11 14:53:17)
I replaced the older Magnecor wires I had with some newer ones and that helped out, but it still has this hiccup/miss at lower rpm/transition to boost. Hopefully going to the MS3 with individual coils will solve my issues. Not so sure there isn't a problem with the current megasquirt ecu I have.
I'm currently using a Ford 36-1 tooth wheel and crank sensor. That sends a signal to the factory Ford ignition module and the megasquirt feeds it the timing numbers. With the new setup the vr sensor will feed right into the ms3. LS2 coils have built in modules.
FCvg30et: (2011-02-11 15:08:13)
[quote]260DET wrote: [quote=FCvg30et]
So has anybody put their 6262 on the dyno? How much power @ what boost?
VG33ER (8.5:1) with BB 6262 full T4 made 325hp and 377ft/lbs at 12-13psi. This was with a misfire 4500rpm and up, so hp suffered.
I'm ditching the Megasquirt 2 with Ford wasted spark for Megasquirt 3 and will be running full sequential fuel and ignition with LS2 truck coils. Hope to have some new numbers soon to share.
Dyno chart showing RPM's please and pics of the trigger/sensor setups. Mine are about done, SYNC is set up on the left cam gear.
You can see the definite miss at 3200 and then up in boost where the lines are all jagged. It's probably making more than this now, but I need to get some new numbers up soon.
This is what I plan on using as an optical cam input in addition to the 36-1 tooth wheel on the crank I already have. As you can see there, I trimmed some thin metal to cover up the other 5 holes as the ms3 only needs to see one.
Curious as to what you are using for a cam sensor and what ecu you will be running?
FlawleZ: (2011-02-11 21:41:31)
Well seeing you post your dyno graph and getting a look at another VG3x + billet 62 is quite interesting. Although we're running quite different setups, the power threshold is very similar looking but where yours tapers off @ 5500 RPMs mine seems to hold through 6300 or so.
What are the specs on your 62?
Mine:
6262
.63 AR
T3 Flange
3" Vband outlet
E Compressor Cover
260DET: (2011-02-11 22:32:49)
Thats a nice power curve as far as it goes, be interesting to see to what rpm it still makes power when its fully sorted. I'm hoping mine will make power to 7000. My ecu is a MoTec M600, it was running sequential on the VG30DET motor using the OE Nissan CAS. Now, for the 33, its being setup with a missing tooth trigger wheel mounted at the front of the crank pulley with the SYNC trigger at the back of the left cam gear, I just hate the distributor being there, no other reason. Both sensors are magnetic, Hyundai part # 39180 23000.
Its not all finished, when it is pics will be added to my signature project thread.
Racinjitter: (2011-02-14 16:59:09)
z-flash: (2011-02-14 17:20:00)
http://www.precisionturbo.net/
Wow!! They are finally updating the website after oh so many years of NOT updating it!!
roastin300: (2011-02-15 03:51:44)
Nice numbers. So you are running a BONE STOCK VG33ER longblock? Meaning stock heads and cams? I am still a stock longblock, bored .050 over with new OEM Nissan cast pistons, stock heads, cams, springs. This 6262 T4 turbo wants to pull hard past 6500rpm but I set the rev limiter to 6700rpm due to stock valve springs. Based on those numbers, I am worried I will not acheive 450+rwhp on 24psi. I need headwork bad at this point. At least something other than a stock maxima intake manifold.
z31t: (2011-02-15 18:55:20)
Roastin do not worry your power levels are within reach for sure. I have a vg30et built with the dett 8.5/1 comp pistons with a similar sized turbo my compressor being slightly smaller than yours. I put down 420whp/450lbft on 22 psi and our dyno is load based so it reads a little lower. My same setup trapped 93mph in the eighth at 18psi. Stock heads and cams are definitely choking me as well. I will be doing cams within the month and putting in on the dyno back to back with stock cams and with regrinds to give those on the site a comparison of what just cams can do for this motor.
FlawleZ: (2011-02-15 21:47:47)
Yeah I think you'd be hard pressed to do so without opening up the intake system. At least a better intake manifold and some throw some cams and springs in there.
z31t: (2011-02-15 22:06:34)
I'm hoping to upgrade my intake soon after I do the cams and follow the same process on the dyno to show the before and after but I do know its possible to hit those numbers with a stock intake.
FCvg30et: (2011-02-15 22:29:38)
Yeah it is bone stock. I have a sheetmetal plenum I made like the one StreetFighter had posted awhile back. I should have done cams while I had it out though. Seems like the 33 cams really die off past 5500.
260DET, do you have any pics of your cam sensor setup?
Crusherbait: (2011-02-16 02:18:07)
Hey John,
Any chance you could post up a compressor map of your new turbo? what kind of dyno are you going to run on? are we going to be talking about corrected or uncorrected numbers? I might have a guess if you're interested… Thanks Man :-D
John
FlawleZ: (2011-02-16 14:03:57)
[quote]FCvg30et wrote:
Nice numbers. So you are running a BONE STOCK VG33ER longblock? Meaning stock heads and cams? I am still a stock longblock, bored .050 over with new OEM Nissan cast pistons, stock heads, cams, springs. This 6262 T4 turbo wants to pull hard past 6500rpm but I set the rev limiter to 6700rpm due to stock valve springs. Based on those numbers, I am worried I will not acheive 450+rwhp on 24psi. I need headwork bad at this point. At least something other than a stock maxima intake manifold.
Yeah it is bone stock. I have a sheetmetal plenum I made like the one StreetFighter had posted awhile back. I should have done cams while I had it out though. Seems like the 33 cams really die off past 5500.
260DET, do you have any pics of your cam sensor setup?
The VG30 and VG33 cams die off after 5500 rpms. The 33's are a little worse up top.
zmainiac: (2011-02-24 02:09:14)
So what is the best place to buy a billet wheel precision turbo. I was thinking of a t67 or t72
roastin300: (2011-02-24 07:43:26)
I dont have a compressor map for my comp turbo 62mm, but I imagine its close to similar 62mm turbos. With this T4 turbine housing, I pull real hard to 6000rpm on stock cams, and it still pulls very well up to 6500rpm, at least better than my HX35 did. This is most likely because of the larger T4 turbine housing and wheel versus the HX35 turbine setup.
I will be running on a DynoJet 248 Model Inertia Dyno. I am just shooting for corrected numbers since most people on this forum ALWAYS post up corrected numbers, except for SATAN. I want 450rwhp+ corrected.
I am wondering what a set of aftermarket cams and springs on stock heads will give me??? Is there only a minimal gain due to not porting and polishing? I would like to do JUST cams, leave stock springs in, quick and simple. My springs are very low mileage, around 25-30K miles OEM new from nissan. Think they will float? Who has actually heard of someone on this forum floating valves from running stock springs with aftermarket cams and actually causing valve and/or piston damage?
Z31t: So your going to do aftermarket cams on stock head castings and stock valve springs? This is what I want to do. Are you worried about valve float? Ever plan on porting the heads?
Crusherbait: (2011-02-27 15:02:07)
If it's pulling hard up to 6500, how much higher do you want go?
During the middle of the 09 season I did a little test on my 4g63. At that time I was running 2.5" IC piping, stock TB, stock IM, unported head with HKS 272's and BC Ti springs and retainers. The turbo was a mitsu bolt-on BEP A/R .55 S259 with a 2.5" exit. Up until the test the best pass I had was a 11.10 at 133. The test basically consisted of checking the exhaust manifold pressure and comparing to the intake pressure. Last year I switched over to a A/R .70 T-3 manifold with the same turbo and a 3" exit, that's all I changed besides adding a little more fuel up top. I ended up running a 10.75 at 140 last year. I know I'm talking exhaust and not cams, but the way I look at it, it's all kind of the same thing-sort of. Get to your target RPM and boost level, then check your back pressure on the exhaust manifold and then determine if larger IC piping, IM, port & polish head or cams would benefit you or not.
roastin300: (2011-02-27 20:37:38)
What device did you use to check exhaust manifold pressure? Never seen a pressure gauage that can handle that type of heat....although I have never really looked either
Crusherbait: (2011-02-27 21:31:19)
IIRC, a brass 1/8" NPT fitting with a barbed end and about 18" of soft copper waterline into some hose that was hooked up to a spare boost gauge. I've got most of the pieces in the garage or basement somewhere… I'm sure you know that I didn't leave it on for very long either. I also came up with the fittings and a gauge to check the oil pressure at the turbo just to be sure on that one too.
KamaKaZee: (2011-12-20 19:28:46)
Now that this thread has had a chance to sit and ferment a bit while more people got on the Precision band wagon....
Has anyone had a chance to try out the billet Precision BB turbos in comparison to the journal bearing ones?
Is the difference really worth the $500 or so difference?
shromy: (2011-12-20 19:33:02)
Yes, if you are willing to pay it.
z31t: (2011-12-20 19:47:32)
The journal bearing ones don't like 35psi for too long…ask me how I know.
KamaKaZee: (2011-12-20 20:37:36)
Sounds like the voice of experience.
35psi is quite a load on the turbine side I would think. Do you know if that side failed first?
Good point. I plan to run 20psi fairly often. Not near what you run, but over the long haul a factor.
I'm old school so I'm still a bit uncomfortable with air cooled center section. I wish Precision offered a WC center section for those left behind in the 80's like me.
z31t: (2011-12-20 21:50:31)
It didnt completely fail yet but I have questionable back and forth shaft play. When I called precision they told me about how much stronger the ball bearing was when it comes to thrust load (I forget the actual number). If your going to run lower boost Id say 22psi and below Journal bearing will be fine, I mean mines going back on as is but I hopefully won't have to be as aggressive on boost with this next setup.
KamaKaZee: (2011-12-20 22:01:47)
did you change platforms? LSX ? I get confused who's doing what.
Just for comparison, I can tell you that I have a OEM Garrett T3 that was rebuilt about 50-60K miles ago.
It currently has ZERO hand detectable lateral or longitudinal free play. Of course, it has and never will see the stresses you put on yours 8)
Racinjitter: (2011-12-20 22:25:42)
I ran 23psi on my pt5857 journal for 800 miles and it is tighter than a factory BB unit. We'll see what it can do this summer hopefully.
z31t: (2011-12-21 00:51:39)
My ebay turbo was run on my car at 30psi and now its on the 1jcar with almost no shaft play. The precision has no movement side to side but its pretty noticeable front to back. It saw heavy heavy abuse though at 30psi for around 4the months and then I cranked it to 35.
NissanXRMA: (2011-12-22 04:56:01)
What "brand" ebay turbo have you been using?
KamaKaZee: (2011-12-22 05:18:46)
And…did you send it out for professional balancing and shaft inspection / magnafluxing before using it?
z31t: (2011-12-22 12:24:49)
There was no specific brand, just super t70 written on a plate attached to the compressor housing. It sat on the wall of our shop for four years before I used it. I never sent it off for any work.
KamaKaZee: (2011-12-23 03:32:21)
ok
z31t: (2011-12-23 03:42:18)
I've had good luck with them, if you do your own work there isn't much to lose. Right now im deciding to buy a t4 exhaust housing to put on my 67/65 or buy an ebay for about 100 dollars more. Love my precision but the thrust play is pretty bad. Pretty amazing itt made all that powet t3.
KamaKaZee: (2011-12-23 04:14:40)
How much with the t3 hot side?
Sounds like you trust the ebay turbos. Frankly, other than mostly gossip, there's a LOT of people buying them and mostly good results. Another good one for Myth Busters…"ebay turbos".
I guess at the boos levels you run, you're gonna go through turbos quicker? Can't you get your 67/65 redone for less?
z31t: (2011-12-23 04:27:24)
Im looking at a rebuild plus a housing, it would be cheaper to go ebay but I know the 67 will push the power im wanting to push on the new setup.
amreboot: (2011-12-26 03:40:29)
I am running a pte 6765 Dual BB.
I currently pushing 25psi on it (forged internals) on my vg33.
Its a load of fun. I haven't had any other experience on other BB turbos but my previous was a t3/t04e journal setup.
Obviously, given that the 6765 is a bit bigger than a t04e there is some lag but overall the spool time is quick!
I am sold on PTE and will never go any other route.
Rick88ss: (2011-12-26 04:16:19)
How much power are you making at 25psi?
amreboot: (2011-12-26 05:18:35)
[quote]Rick88ss wrote:
I am running a pte 6765 Dual BB.
I currently pushing 25psi on it (forged internals) on my vg33.
Its a load of fun. I haven't had any other experience on other BB turbos but my previous was a t3/t04e journal setup.
Obviously, given that the 6765 is a bit bigger than a t04e there is some lag but overall the spool time is quick!
I am sold on PTE and will never go any other route.
How much power are you making at 25psi?
I honestly don't know.
Last time my Z was on a dyno was when it was getting professionally tuned for E85.
I have since then added Schneider 274-70h cams and upped the boost to 25psi.
It was tuned at 15psi which was at 396rwhp (Denver altitude, ~5500 ft).
z31t: (2011-12-26 15:16:36)
Similar boost with my setup put down in the 525-550whp range
Rick88ss: (2011-12-30 05:01:53)
Took my Z to the dyno tonight.
This 6262 is KICK ASS!
Lots more power than I expected.
Stock block and heads
Isky cams 264/.450
Precision Billet 6262 turbo
15 psi
[archived image: dyno15psi6262.jpg]
20 psi
[archived image: dyno20psi62621.jpg]
20psi
[archived image: dyno20psi62622.jpg]
DeleriousZ: (2011-12-30 15:39:45)
Wow rick those are great numbers!!
amreboot: (2011-12-30 15:46:34)
Very nice Rick!
Thats probably where I am sitting with my build, except I am running 25psi on the 6262 Billet (vg33 forged).
z31t: (2011-12-30 16:21:41)
Was boost going up towards the end of the runs, that bump in the torque at the end is substantial but its not in the 15psi graph at all? Great numbers rick, beautiful car too.
TooSlow: (2012-09-04 08:18:08)
Hello. What do you think about precision turbo 3231E on VG30ET. Powergoal is 300 - 350 hp.