Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums driveline-aa/New performance clutch (pedal adjustment)
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z863: (2013-09-01 23:10:42)
I installed a 6 puck unsprung clutch in my 87' turbo and it slipped pretty bad. After realizing I forgot to adjust the clutch pedal, I did so and found that both the rod that goes into the master cylinder AND the larger adjustable shank/nut were adjusted as much as possible (the clutch safety switch has been bypassed and adjusted all the way out) with still no free play in the pedal. With that said, the clutch is obviously not fully disengaged as it is still slipping. How can I get this clutch to reach full dis-engagement? Would getting a longer rod that goes into master cylinder work? I'm pretty stumped… Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.
G-E: (2013-09-01 23:20:15)
That should never need to be done, something was installed incorrectly… check the fork and tob assembly, make sure everything is fully bolted down, re-bleed the cylinder and slave
jaqattack02: (2013-09-02 00:57:32)
Don't most clutches need a break in period before they start grabbing correctly?
z863: (2013-09-02 01:54:13)
I've read up on the fork actually flexing slightly and causing a hard shift. Especially into first and reverse(like I'm experiencing)… I'm thinking this may be causing the slipping condition and or the lack of slack in my clutch pedal. Thoughts?
G-E: (2013-09-02 02:12:08)
Flexing maybe but not to the point where you reach the end of the adjusters and need more rod… the flex you'd be talking about is a few mm at best
Axel kain: (2013-09-02 06:00:45)
how many miles have you driven on this clutch, in stop and go traffic, for proper break in?
you have re-bled the system since installing the new clutch? I have had cases where the slave piston will actually stay out further than normal, for some strange reason. crack bleeder/bleed system, and it operates perfectly.
300zxturboftw: (2013-09-02 15:55:20)
Our master/slave has more than enough travel for most aftermarket clutches. Should never have to switch out rod.
I would say bleed and if that doesnt work take it apart and reinstall it even If it looks visually fine. Should catch at very top of the pedal after proper break in
z863: (2013-09-02 18:48:37)
There's somewhere between 15 and 25 miles on the clutch. I have bled the system twice as well. I feel as if it's something besides lack of break in though. The fact that there is NO play in the pedal alone gives me reason to believe so. Everything was assembled correctly too. After I bled the system after the install it slipped terribly. Then I re bled it… Slipped just as bad. Then I adjusted the pedal and it holds halfway decent in first gear but second and up slip pretty significantly still.
300zxturboftw: (2013-09-02 23:12:39)
When the pedal is all the way up is there any free play when you push it down…as in little resistance?
jaqattack02: (2013-09-03 02:00:39)
When you say it's slipping in first and second, is that under normal driving, or are you abusing it? Any new clutch will slip if you are abusing it before it's broken in. Hopefully you haven't glazed the surface at this point.
THEBEAST: (2013-09-03 02:30:46)
maybe you installed the disk backwards. that will cause the pp to not clamp against the fly.
300zxturboftw: (2013-09-03 03:32:41)
Back out the clutch pedal stopper (could be a switch) all the way. See if there is freeplay in the pedal then. If not then just take apart the transmission, because you are just going to ruin the disk.
z863: (2013-09-03 15:29:36)
When under a load in first the clutch barely slips if hardly at all. Second gear grabs a little but after building a couple pounds of boost it starts slipping. Third and up slip terribly even at the hint of boost. Also, there is absolutely NO FREE PLAY ON THE PEDAL. And the stopper or the switch was FULLY ADJUSTED OUT before I even started the build so that was never holding anything up. And if I installed the disk backwards would the clutch hold up (not slip) under a load in first gear at 5+ psi on an hx35?
G-E: (2013-09-03 17:09:14)
It might…? You'd effectively be talking about only the pressure plate touching the disc, so not much clamp load
You have to get under there and recheck everything, assume it's mechanical, fork operation, slave cylinder operation, disc installation, bad pressure plate, etc…
300zxturboftw: (2013-09-03 18:20:33)
Sometimes the disk will have 0 free play for the first 50 miles and it will get better as it breaks in depending on the product…Your first mistake is giving the car boost after 15-25 miles of driving when knowing the clutch isn't engaging fully. Wouldn't be surprised if the disk is ruined already. Sounds like a bad pressure plate though with the forks not returning clamp load fully on the disk.
As G-E said a clutch is basic and mechanical. If one part is wrong (broken/wrongfully installed) it will not function correctly.
THEBEAST: (2013-09-03 18:30:48)
I'm betting its backward
THEBEAST: (2013-09-03 18:32:47)
Also, there are different lengths of the pivot stud, but if you are using all the same parts, just new clutch kit..that shouldn't matter