Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums driveline-aa/Issue with turbo axle not staying in the diff?
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turblown: (2013-03-29 15:15:14)
I'm replacing the passenger side cv axle on my 85 turbo. I picked up a remanned unit and got to installing it today. It bolts up fine but seems short. What I mean by that is, the diff side of the shaft wants to pull out of the diff by 1/2-1". I can pull the shaft over (from tire to diff) and it snugs into the differential just fine, but then wants to pull out. I checked with the parts house and I have the correct side axle.
So, I look at the FSM (page RA-12) and see that there should be a "circular clip A" on the diff side stub. My OEM one did not have a clip on it, neither does this remanned one. I know the axle has play left to right to account for suspension travel, but here's my question: is the axle too short, or it is supposed to snug into the diff and then "circular clip A" holds it in? If it's the latter, does anyone know where I could pick up a clip the right size?
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datsunzcar84: (2013-03-29 17:32:53)
did you match it up with the old one? because i know the one side is shorter than the other … Maybe it got boxed wrong?
turblown: (2013-03-29 18:13:27)
Yea, they're the same, I just got a better look at the issue now. There IS a c-clip, but the old one is stuck in the diff and keeping the new shaft from locking in. I'll get that c-clip out of the diff and put it onto the axle and it should work.
datsunzcar84: (2013-03-29 19:16:22)
there ya go! at least it was an easy fix!
Careless: (2013-03-29 19:23:04)
if you're going to remove the diff carrier itself to get the clip out, be prepared for a fight with the ring gear bolts.
ONLY because the ring gear bolts are tough to remove most of the time (although I'm sure someone is going to say 'never was a problem for me' like it makes a difference), I would say just use a rubber mallet on your axle boot and try and seat it into the diff. with the suspension loaded. I managed to drop the car onto 2 blocks of wood and get under the rear and hammer it in. you can hear it click in.
if that doesn't work, then pull the diff out.
frostvectron: (2013-03-29 19:43:36)
Yeah the ring gear bolts were a pain for me. A little bit of heat to soften the loctite worked for me.
When I pulled my axles there was also no c-clip on the stubs. I assumed they were supposed to stay inside the diff…
Careless: (2013-03-29 19:54:29)
I'm not sure where the c-clip is supposed to say. some say it comes out with the axle, but then fighting it to go in is a chore. some say that it's supposed to stay in the diff. I think it's supposed to stay in the diff.
That gives me an idea. Maybe I should go pull apart the CLSD in the garage today since I have time. I just hope I can actually take that fucking ring gear open. I kinda don't want to heat it up because gear oil is the smelliest smell that ever smelled in all of smellsville.
frostvectron: (2013-03-29 20:00:57)
Yeah it is a pretty awful smell. I took mine apart in a laboratory, so I just put an exhaust vent right on top of it. Just 2-5 seconds with a propane torch and they came off like butter though.
Still smelled like I was going to get cancer.
amreboot: (2013-03-29 20:01:30)
I have never seen the C clip come out with the axles.
The passenger side axle is longer than the driver side.
Chances are you got the wrong axle.
I would not even think about taken apart the diff to remove the C clip. Leave it in there.
Get the right axle and use a rubber mallet to tap the new axle in place.
Careless: (2013-03-29 20:05:11)
I've had one C-clip come out of the datsun I used to own (R180 diff). to put it back in, I squeezed it into the hole and used the nose of the axle shaft to slowly push it in until I heard it expand/click. then i pulled the axel back and gave it a nice quick jab and it clicked in.
also, it took multiple tries. not as easy as it sounds. at least not for me.
turblown: (2013-03-29 22:29:49)
I tried today to jab it in and it refused to go in. I tried tapping it in as well without much success. It's so hard to get a good tap on it without messing up the boot, any tips for that? I agree it is harder than it seems. I thought I could just bump it in. I even tried a pry bar on the wheel side to push the shaft into the diff (no success though).
Thank you both for the help. Of course with my Z, a simple repair is becoming a mystery multi-day repair…lol.
Augustus Maximus: (2013-03-30 00:44:08)
Try lowering the sub frame with the diff. Have a extra pair of hands keeping axle straight and beat that bitch like you caught your wife cheating.
turblown: (2013-03-30 01:10:24)
LOL! Seriously though, I wasn't sure if I could put a lot of force on the wheel-end of the shaft. I was afraid I would hurt the joint assembly or something. So, it's OK to beat on it?
Careless: (2013-03-30 01:16:25)
it could be that your c-clip is hanging down inside the diff and it's broken.
take the axle out completely and look inside.
and no, don't beat the shit out of the axles if you don't know if the c-clip is the problem yet. you might make it a problem if you're not careful, and pulling the differential out when you don't have to isn't my idea of a calm sunday afternoon when it doesn't have to be.
turblown: (2013-03-30 02:17:54)
No, the clip isn't broken. I can see into the diff, and it's just sitting in the recess where it should. From trying to get it out today with a screwdriver, I can affirm it's not broken or bent, looks pretty much normal. I have a clip I found in the broken axle (I think clip "B" from the FSM). The one in the diff looks just the same. So, I don't think it's broken or bent. It's probably more that this Z hates me, lol. Yea, pulling the diff is something I'd rather not do. I already had it down to do bushings, not fun, lol.
frostvectron: (2013-03-30 02:23:44)
To get mine to plug in, I pulled out the coil spring and put the jack under the control arm so I could make the axle pretty level with the diff.
I then got a hammer and a long metal bar. I put the bar on the "shoulder" of the axle (near the inner cv boot). Then got the hammer and smacked the bar. It popped in on the first hit, but I hit in a few spots around the shoulder just for good measure.
The long bar was so I could swing the hammer from not under the car.
Augustus Maximus: (2013-03-30 05:50:30)
That's the general idea…smack the biatch.
Careless: (2013-03-30 09:11:34)
well dropping the entire subframe takes exactly 60 minutes for me… it's not that bad. (the last time I did it, I was on a timer!)
but it doesn't seem like it has to be done in this case. do you have a spare axle with a stub end you can take off and use as a test fit piece?
the reason I said hit the axle when the car is on the floor is because I couldn't get it to go in when the suspension was unloaded either… it was going in at too much of an angle.
turblown: (2013-03-30 14:06:53)
Yea, I still have the old stub I can test fit with. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'll update you later today after I go beat on it some.
turblown: (2013-03-30 16:40:47)
10 points for Careless. Measure the axle again and it is, in fact, the same length as the driver's side. So it got boxed wrong at the factory somehow. I'll be heading back to the parts house and reordering it again (sigh).
On another note, the old stub clicked right into the diff, so the clip is working and everything. Again, I'll update again once I get another axle shipped here in a few days.