Forums/Z31P/z31-basics reference/Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability information
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Jason84NA2T: (2006-07-18 17:59:20)
I figured this was needed because of the shear number of driveshaft and driveline part related questions I answer for people. All of my knowledge comes from working on Z31's so if I have something wrong, please feel free to correct me and we will make revisions over time!
These are the dimensions of an early 2 seater manual turbo (T5) driveshaft:
All manual transmissions are the same length, so hence all manual driveshafts for two seat cars are also the same length.
Transmissions each have their own unique slip-yoke on the driveshaft, and length for their application:
~Automatic
~NA manual
~Turbo manual (T5)
~87+ turbo manual (90A)
~Automatic, 2+2
~NA Manual, 2+2
In addition, the joints are not the same size in the N/A and turbo (at least manual) shafts; turbos are bigger so you cannot simply swap yokes or diff flanges on the shaft. On a side note I have only seen replacement-type joints listed for the turbo driveshaft's joint sizes, not the NA. It's easy to see from this information that if you want to put a turbo manual transmission in a 2+2 car, you will need to have a standard turbo driveshaft lengthened (re-tubed) or a custom unit made
There are two diff flanges:
Early (rectangle)
Late all 87+ (round/square bolt pattern)
You can swap the differential companion flange on the diff relatively easily with a steering wheel puller. Be sure to re-torque the pinion nut after swapping the flange!
All Z31 differentials will interchange and spline to all Z31 halfshafts; the only notable exception being the SS viscous LSD and half-shafts which are unique.
The half-shafts themselves are only different between turbo and non-turbo models. Aside for having a different type of joint, Nissan also chose to change the style of flange on the outboard flange that the half-shaft bolts on to. This flange is known as the axle stub companion flange because it splines directly onto the axle stub. NA cars have 6 bolts, while turbo have 4:
If you are swapping turbo halfshafts into an NA car, you will need to obtain the correct companion flanges for not only the correct model (turbo/NA) but also the correct year group, as they were changed for the 87-89 cars.
The axle stubs appear to be the weakest link in the otherwise very strong rear end. http://www.modern-motorsports.com makes upgraded units, but they are rather expensive.
G-E: (2006-07-18 20:55:14)
I can measure the 30a 2-seat and 71c 2+2 for you at some point....
MikeZ: (2006-07-19 02:41:34)
Good info, thanks.
Dan-TSS: (2006-07-20 19:14:10)
Axle Stubs and Companion Flanges have always haunted me as I have nevewr had the luxury of changing them on the z31's untill today. I read that the book time for the changing of the bearings was 2.8hrs and Based on everyones responses, complaints, etc..over there at z31.com, I thought I was in for a real PITA.
- With the proper tools, these things pop right apart, "piece-a-cake". [archived image: biggrin.png] (I love how the FSM goes through the complete steps..hahah, yeah, right!)
Here was my method that worked real well:
The biggest thing is popping the companion flange off first in the direction of the differential after impacting the stub axle nut off with a 30mm socket. I used a decent slide hammer to do this then pulled the axle stub out the opposing way with the same type of tool.
It actually only took a couple hours to do, start to finish.
- The inner wheel bearing and grease seal came out and went back in with the same slide hammer method. Quick and Easy.
The next issue is the outer bearing…getting it off the axle stub and then back on.
- This requires a large bearing seperator and a press**
^^Half the battle is having the proper tools and the proper instruction^^
>>>>I hope everyone else has as good of luck doing these as I did
G-E: (2006-09-05 21:47:58)
ShamWow: (2007-05-26 03:19:23)
Companion flanges are different between 84-86 and 87-89? Are you talking about 4/87+ (W series) cars? Wow, I was planning on swapping my 84T flanges into my early (non-W) 87 NA for my home-made halfshafts. So according to this, they won't fit? Whats different between them? I have never heard this before…
G-E: (2007-05-26 18:43:55)
excellent… so distilled this means
84-86 - rectangular flange
87-89 - square flange
2 seater - 34" length
2+2 - 42" length
71c yolk - 1.38" diameter
30a yolk - 1.655" diameter
90a (t5) yolk - 1.5" diameter
Jason84NA2T: (2007-05-27 05:59:52)
I will add all of this information to the first post. Thanks guys!
1SickZ: (2007-08-30 22:34:27)
Am i reading correctly that 87 halfshafts do not swap into 86na car, even with the proper 87 flanges?
G-E: (2007-08-30 23:51:36)
the front end is tranny specific, the rear end is year specific, combine
SpeedyZ: (2007-09-21 03:58:42)
so to clarify something for myself, if I'm going to swap an 71C into an 88 Turbo auto, I need the differential flange and drive shaft and thats all?
G-E: (2007-09-21 06:25:33)
read the chart again.... you may not need the flange
ShamWow: (2007-10-01 01:22:19)
As long as were talking driveline compatibility:
If swapping a BW T5 into your 87-89, or if swapping a 30A into your 84-86, The transmission mount will need to be modified. The holes need to be slotted in the mount and/or the transmission to allow alignment with the tunnels mounting points.
SATAN: (2008-02-20 22:18:54)
Like Mike said, "as long as were talking driveline compatibility:"
You cannot hybrid z31 half shafts with 90-96 q45 half shafts simply by pulling the two apart and mixing and matching pieces. If you could it would enable you to run the beefier Q45 diff in the z31. But you cant. You also cant just drop in the Q45 diff and half shafts. The shafts are different lengths. It is not impossible but requires fabrication. I am going to see if the carriers will swap over. If they do without a problem, then all that is required is cutting half shafts, shortening, sleeving them and welding them back together.
EDIT:
The carriers do swap over just fine, so like I said all you have to do is shorten the half shafts and splice the z31 and the Q45 half shafts together and weld. Or you can have a custom axle made that allows the Q45 CV on one side and the z31 CV on the other side. Each one of those axles cost's approximately $200 a piece to have made. Yes you need two of them.
Ski300zx: (2008-11-26 00:54:08)
Is there a difference between the left and right side axles on an 86na. im trying to buy new axles, autozone sent me one correct one, the other one they sent me was for some type of front wheel drive car. so they say it was boxed wrong and they send me another, which of course is the same wrong one they sent me in the first place. I know there are different part numbers, but maybe ::crosses fingers:: they are the same so i can tell these idiots to just send me another one of the axles i got that was actually right.
Caster: (2010-01-13 20:40:18)
I would just like to double check since I'm a little new to the Z31 world. According to the information in this thread an 88 drive shaft from a 5spd Turbo 2 seater coupe WILL fit my 87 5spd Turbo 2 seater coupe. Am I correct in understanding this information? I just found a driveshaft from an 88 and I'm ready to place my order, but I just want to make sure I'm getting the right part.
SATAN: (2010-02-03 03:09:35)
Assuming your tranny is the R30A like it is supposed to be for an 87 turbo.
theredsnowflake: (2010-03-08 05:47:19)
"All manual transmissions are the same length, so hence all manual driveshafts for two seat cars are also the same length.
Transmissions each have their own unique slip-yoke on the driveshaft, and length for their application:
~Automatic
~NA manual
~Turbo manual (T5)
~87+ turbo manual (30A)
~Automatic, 2+2
~NA Manual, 2+2
There are two diff flanges:
Early (rectangle)
Late all 87+ (round/square bolt pattern)"
The tranny in my 87 NA 5 spd went kaput.
I have a simple question… will a transmission from a 84-86 NA 5spd pop right in to my 87 NA 5 spd? Can I keep the existing drive shaft that's in my 87? I've been scouring the web for this answer and have yet to receive a straight one. Thanks for your help
hoov100: (2010-03-08 05:51:54)
Anyone have the length of a couple driveshaft with an auto trans?
Careless: (2010-04-19 07:31:38)
This needs to be added:
"non-serviceable" U-joints can be replaced by grinding the tabs out of the stock U-joint ears to push out the old U-Joints, and then using part number 430-11A (common to many manufacturers, as it is a design template number), and the c-clips will be inserted from the inside using expander-ring pliers.
servicing instructions included here:
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked … ctions.htm
edsz31: (2010-05-20 04:50:15)
I'm running a 4/87 t Transmission, rear subframe assy, LSD and drive shaft in my 86T, after installing rear poly subframe bushing and poly rear diff mount my drive shaft has no free-play. I believe my drive shaft is to long??. my drive shaft would not fit back in with a solid rear Diff mount. I hope to get it out next week and have it shortened .5 inches.
FlawleZ: (2010-06-12 20:30:24)
I just noticed this. I would highly recommend against it as I've had this done twice in the past. What you will find is that the driveshafts are almost always out of balance afterward. It could be a temporary solution but not recommended.
Careless: (2010-06-21 14:01:55)
[quote]FlawleZ wrote:
This needs to be added:
"non-serviceable" U-joints can be replaced by grinding the tabs out of the stock U-joint ears to push out the old U-Joints, and then using part number 430-11A (common to many manufacturers, as it is a design template number), and the c-clips will be inserted from the inside using expander-ring pliers.
servicing instructions included here:
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked … ctions.htm
I just noticed this. I would highly recommend against it as I've had this done twice in the past. What you will find is that the driveshafts are almost always out of balance afterward. It could be a temporary solution but not recommended.
the website I found the number on stated to have it balanced afterward, so i didn't think to post here.
DavidA: (2010-10-01 13:45:29)
Since this is a "Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability information" sticky.
There has been one thing bugging me for a while.
I have a EURO z31 87+ turbo. That doesn't really matter but If I ever wanted to buy a new LSD (epicness). I would have a lot of trouble looking for one. I stumbled on this by accident when I was searching for some info about other stuff that there is a Kaaz (maybe other) unit that is pretty much bolt-on. Its from an s13/s14 for an OPEN diff car. Part number: SAN2655. I'm guessing this is for a 2-way. If I am not mistaken they can do 1.5 way also. Price: a little over a grand. Well if this fits then I'm guessing any LSD unit for the s13/14 will work also (Open diff)
Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks
reddzx: (2010-10-01 13:56:49)
Yes, it will work. Also Quaife has one for $1069.75
DavidA: (2010-10-01 14:14:57)
Awesome- info like this should be stickied or something. Same thing with short throw shifters, interchangeable parts and so on. In the driveline section alone, half of the posts are pretty much the same. Will this shifter fit and so on. Just a suggestion. It'll be easier for noobs to find info fast without all the flaming :nanan?re
I am not keen on making websites but I would like to see a site with pretty much ALL the info about the Z31 because searching for a stupid part number or a little piece of info takes a while and sometimes gets frustrating. I love this site and all you guys (not in a gay way or anything) :lol: but making the ULTIMATE site would be a dream come true.
628sx: (2011-02-25 10:32:22)
Ok.... so to swap a 5 speed into my 84 2+2 turbo. what driveshaft am i looking for? Are the tranny mount/crossmember all the same? Also while im in there, would a lighter weight flywheel be of any advantage?
pabloqc: (2011-04-29 01:50:43)
Hello, iam new on this forum i i dont write alot its because iam french.
- EDIT**v2.0 :-D
i have found answer to all my question and put them into this image
- the only real question is how hard is making a hybrid u-joint NA-Turbo?
Thanks David
Benedict: (2011-05-11 18:12:58)
Here's another option.
[archived image: 069b09f6.jpg]
midian: (2011-07-04 20:39:09)
If you own EUDM and want to put 30A, you need to swap front part of driveshaft.
EUDM MT (na/t) has support bearing, 2 parts , and 3 u-joints, so simply swap front part.
(you can find Bruce's (Finland) webpage, through z31clubdotcom, he done this in 2004)
pabloqc: (2011-07-08 23:48:34)
mind is canadien but i will check for that iam tring to find all part i need to put my auto to manual
Thanks david
edit: bruce ride http://www.z31club.com/z31club/z31club-237.htm
Iam coming back to home this week i will check that
628sx: (2011-07-18 02:19:07)
cross member worked, got a stock flywheel, but apparently when i said "i needed the drive shaft for an 84 2+2" i actually said "no please give me the 2+0 drive shaft because i love mid tranny swap stress"
midian: (2011-09-07 19:35:47)
Hi all.
So, may be answer for this question will upgrade base of knowledge about z driveshafts:
if anyone want to put 30A into 2+2 this dimension, according to calculations, based on data about other Z shafts (see previous post) should be 958mm (or 37.71 in)
and slip yoke splines dimensions are:
1.284" diameter, 28 based on 30 spline.
ZpassionZ: (2012-08-13 23:46:02)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
i have a similar problem it appears that my u joint is severely damaged to the point of almost breaking, i found one at the junkyard in great shape same year and model, so i picked it up(86naCoupe) the bearing on my old busted one are still good and so is the yolk. was thinking of swapping the yolk/Diff side too and bearing from my busted one to the junkyard driveshaft that has a good u joint. im horrible at explaining thinkgs but ill show some picks in a bit.
spent 30$ so far help me save money so i can keep buying tires :twisted:
shromy: (2012-08-14 00:06:32)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
So if it is the same drive shaft why swap anything? Or am I just confused in what you are saying?
ZpassionZ: (2012-08-22 00:46:19)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
yeah i was looking at the driveshaft from the junkyard and it makes no sense to swap the yolk since their both in similar condition.
heres some picks of both, i was mad because i took them to a driveline shop and they told me i had to buy a new one because they couldnt work around the seal. are these driveshaft' completely unworkable? all i really need is new bearings on the junkyard one and i should be good to go.
ZpassionZ: (2012-08-22 00:48:30)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
heres the other was thinking of painting it.
NissanEgg: (2012-08-22 01:43:30)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
Those are OEM staked-in u-joints. It requires machine work to put aftermarket joints in there, and most drive-line shops don't like doing that. They'd rather build you new yokes than machine what's there. Or you can buy aftermarket shafts with serviceable joints.
G-E: (2012-08-22 02:22:46)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
I don't understand the point of using serviceable joints, the non-serv's are stronger, and frankly who is actually going to change them out 10-15yrs from now when those wear out?
shromy: (2012-08-22 20:32:10)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
Obviously some of us.
ZpassionZ: (2012-09-05 23:34:20)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
so it turns out ilm going to go with what nissan egg said and put serviceable joints. but i was looking around and wouldnt it be better to just buy a new one. i pretty much drift the car here and their and im looking for something that wont break faster than oem, i was quoted 200$ to put in serviceable joint, it felt like too much.
shromy: (2012-09-05 23:54:52)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
That price is pretty much on point. Especially with balancing included if so.
G-E: (2012-09-05 23:57:30)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
Skip the serviceable crap and just get a 600hp rated driveshaft [archived image: smile.png]
ZpassionZ: (2012-09-06 06:43:49)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
[quote]G-E wrote:
so it turns out ilm going to go with what nissan egg said and put serviceable joints. but i was looking around and wouldnt it be better to just buy a new one. i pretty much drift the car here and their and im looking for something that wont break faster than oem, i was quoted 200$ to put in serviceable joint, it felt like too much.Skip the serviceable crap and just get a 600hp rated driveshaft [archived image: smile.png]
yeah might as well it was kind of going to be my drift project anyways. i might go with aluminum. didnt want to spend this much right now but its within my budget. anything you guys recommend from personal experiance? how many around here have upgraded their driveshaft. i have a welded diff but was planning to get an ok lsd for it too, looking to uprade a few mounts as well.
Careless: (2012-09-06 07:04:03)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
dave @ shaftmasters made my driveshaft and RedDemon's driveshaft.
very nice unit, serviceable joints, and pretty damn light!
G-E: (2012-09-07 03:14:19)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
Hahaha using an aluminum shaft guarantees you'll never have to rebuild your u-joints [archived image: smile.png]
Careless: (2012-09-07 03:16:27)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
not sure how you came to that conclusion considering the amount of cars that have aluminum shafts that are serviced- but you'd definitely have to rebuild them less. especially if they're oversized for the application.
The spicer 1310's or whatever that are on the new shaft are definitely nice pieces- but I'm pretty sure the ones on mine are non-greasable. Opt for greasable joints if you can. Depending on how much power you put down and what kind of launch you subject the drivetrain to, you can twist an aluminum driveshaft into a pretzel off the line with good traction if your u-joint has the slightest amount of resistance in its rotation.
ZpassionZ: (2012-09-09 22:56:42)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
[quote]Careless wrote:
Hahaha using an aluminum shaft guarantees you'll never have to rebuild your u-joints [archived image: smile.png]
not sure how you came to that conclusion considering the amount of cars that have aluminum shafts that are serviced- but you'd definitely have to rebuild them less. especially if they're oversized for the application.
The spicer 1310's or whatever that are on the new shaft are definitely nice pieces- but I'm pretty sure the ones on mine are non-greasable. Opt for greasable joints if you can. Depending on how much power you put down and what kind of launch you subject the drivetrain to, you can twist an aluminum driveshaft into a pretzel off the line with good traction if your u-joint has the slightest amount of resistance in its rotation.
i forgot to ask, if i go the custom route and get aluminum would i have to do anything to the differential flange? or to any part of the differential after i swap diff's? i was going to upgrade to an lsd and wasnt sure but ill do that a bit down the road waiting for my welded diff on my 86 to die before i swap diff's.
G-E: (2012-09-09 23:38:49)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
If you plan to use a clutch lsd I'd really recommend using a steel shaft… the aluminum one will egg out the u-joint holes with the constant impact stress of locking, and if you were to overload the whole shaft, it wouldn't bend or twist a little, it will either snap or crumple
And as careless said, greaseable reduces strength so careful which route you go down
ZpassionZ: (2012-09-10 10:58:32)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
hmm i heard these are good driveshafts, would it really just be better to go oem? are they capable of handling about 350hp?
i really dont plan on going higher. i was also thinking of swapping the r200 diff frm the later z31, that why i was asking if any further mods need to be done.
Careless: (2012-09-10 12:10:01)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
lolwut? i didnt say that. any resistance from a worn out or poorly maintained joint will cause bind.
greaseble joints will allow you to make sure that doesn't happen for a car that sees a lot of use. the itty bitty fraction of a percent that the grease fitting takes away from the strength of the unit is negligible. the strongest u-joints are the solid spicer XL ones, but I'd rather have grease fittings for this climate we live in.
also, there are plenty of cars running alu driveshafts without issues. If it's built beefy enough and engineered properly- there will be no egging of the holes. if anything would egg the holes or break it into pieces, it's launching a 600-700 whp car from a stand-still on some grippy tires. most aftermarket aluminum driveshaft companies will guarantee their 3.5 inch driveshafts to at least 600whp.
as for flanges- speak to whomever is building your driveshaft. you need to find the bolt circle diameter (NOT the shape of the flange body itself). for the later models where the 4 bolts measured from center to centre make up the shape of a square- you will find that it's something like 2.25" inches. For the earlier models where the bolt pattern is rectangular, I have no idea. It's something like 2.25" x 1.95" but you should just measure whatever your current driveshaft or current differential companion flange has. Or better yet just cut it off your current driveshaft and send it to them if you dont need it.
ZpassionZ: (2012-09-15 22:23:54)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
[quote]Careless wrote:
And as careless said, greaseable reduces strength so careful which route you go down
lolwut? i didnt say that. any resistance from a worn out or poorly maintained joint will cause bind.
greaseble joints will allow you to make sure that doesn't happen for a car that sees a lot of use. the itty bitty fraction of a percent that the grease fitting takes away from the strength of the unit is negligible. the strongest u-joints are the solid spicer XL ones, but I'd rather have grease fittings for this climate we live in.
also, there are plenty of cars running alu driveshafts without issues. If it's built beefy enough and engineered properly- there will be no egging of the holes. if anything would egg the holes or break it into pieces, it's launching a 600-700 whp car from a stand-still on some grippy tires. most aftermarket aluminum driveshaft companies will guarantee their 3.5 inch driveshafts to at least 600whp.
as for flanges- speak to whomever is building your driveshaft. you need to find the bolt circle diameter (NOT the shape of the flange body itself). for the later models where the 4 bolts measured from center to centre make up the shape of a square- you will find that it's something like 2.25" inches. For the earlier models where the bolt pattern is rectangular, I have no idea. It's something like 2.25" x 1.95" but you should just measure whatever your current driveshaft or current differential companion flange has. Or better yet just cut it off your current driveshaft and send it to them if you dont need it.
great advice thx, right now unexpected expenses happened and can only afford oem. i read somewere that the oem driveshaft cant be rebalanced is that true?
G-E: (2012-09-16 00:45:58)
Re: Z31 driveshaft and other driveline compatability informa
Can't be rebuilt technically, but that didn't stop everyone… you should only need to rebalance if you change stuff, and just like a clutch, anyone can do it
Augustus Maximus: (2015-06-07 16:25:04)
In addition, the joints are not the same size in the N/A and turbo (at least manual) shafts; turbos are bigger so you cannot simply swap yokes or diff flanges on the shaft. On a side note I have only seen replacement-type joints listed for the turbo driveshaft's joint sizes, not the NA.
The turbo and NA uses the same u joint. I rebuilt a driveshaft from a 88 2+2 which took the turbo u joint. It's currently running perfectly.
1artworkz: (2015-06-10 19:24:00)
The turbo and NA uses the same u joint. I rebuilt a driveshaft from a 88 2+2 which took the turbo u joint. It's currently running perfectly.
Did you press out the old U-joints or grind them out? BTW: what does grinding them out mean?
Augustus Maximus: (2015-06-11 14:38:33)
I used a 12 ton press to disassemble and assemble, it made the process extremely easy.
amreboot: (2015-06-11 14:44:34)
Did you press out the old U-joints or grind them out? BTW: what does grinding them out mean?
Gary,
I have a 20ton press at home. I will try to press out the one I have now and let you know.
Z_Karma: (2015-06-11 16:40:56)
Grinding is taking a dremel cut-off wheel and removing the stakes that hold the bearing cups. http://z31performance.com/showthread…ford-Driveline
I believe Augustus Maximus used a shop press to press his out.
1artworkz: (2015-06-11 19:08:40)
That was informative. Thanks.
Grinding is taking a dremel cut-off wheel and removing the stakes that hold the bearing cups. http://z31performance.com/showthread…ford-Driveline
I believe Augustus Maximus used a shop press to press his out.
Augustus Maximus: (2015-06-12 07:40:30)
Yes I pushed them out. Took minutes to get it apart.
xBlastFemurx: (2015-10-10 04:06:53)
I just totalled my 86 NA 5 speed and want to swap the motor and tranny into my 87 turbo (keeping the turbo obviously) is this possible provided I keep the engine and driveline together? (And do I need the diffy as well?) My 86 was my baby and I'd like to keep as much of it as possible. Got my mechanic ready to rock with me on this any help will be greatly appreciated. [archived image: smile.png]
Augustus Maximus: (2015-10-14 17:10:54)
It can swap over and no you don't need the diffy, but you will need the driveshaft.
HoserRacing: (2016-11-26 00:56:29)
Ok, if I'm reading this correctly, I can put an a turbo clutch LSD diff into my '87, re-use the CV axles from my '87 (I just put new ones in last year), and even though the diff has a round flange, I can bolt up my square flange driveshaft since it's the same bolt pattern? Thanks for the help and clarification!
frostvectron: (2016-12-09 01:15:30)
No, the square flange and the round flange don't bolt up together. You will need to either swap the flange on the differential side or swap driveshafts (but pay attention to driveshaft compatibility with your trans… not sure what trans you are running). The LSD/axles you mentioned should be fine.
HoserRacing: (2016-12-09 02:06:57)
Thanks Justin! Swapped the companion flange on the diff to the rectangle version & bolted it all up.
dave5442: (2017-05-09 11:45:27)
Sorry to revive an old topic here but I need some help. I've bolted a borg warner t5 from an 86 2 door to my 87 2 door and I know I have to modify my Trans mount and use the diff flange, but the drives haft doesn't seem to be long enough?? What am I doing wrong? What drives haft should I be using?
HoserRacing: (2017-05-09 12:10:04)
Ok, not quite enough information to help you Dave. Is your '86 an NA or Turbo? How about your '87? Are you using the drive shaft from your 86 that mated to the t5 on the '87? Is the '87 a 2+2? How about the '86? If the '87 is a 2+2 and the '86 isn't, there's your problem.
HoserRacing: (2017-05-10 14:19:23)
How much too short is it? That's curious, the 2 seaters should both be the same length driveshaft.
dave5442: (2017-05-10 15:00:16)
Sorry, I feel like an idiot now. I didn't realize that some of the slip yoke should hang out of the tail of the trans to compensate for suspension travel. It seems to be fine now but i wish I knew ahead of time that you have to modify the trans mount if putting a t5 in a 87
HoserRacing: (2017-05-10 18:08:03)
As least you don't have a driveshaft problem [archived image: smile.png] Yep, different mounts, all of them are a pain. We ended up cutting the ears off of the ones in the race cars just to make it easier to work around.
dave5442: (2017-05-10 18:20:31)
Yeah I think I'm just gonna weld some flat bar to the 4 corners to reach the holes. Don't know what else I can do