Forums/Z31P/z31-basics how-to-guides-basic/How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternator
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amreboot: (2011-11-30 01:37:07)
So we all know that we can do a bolt-on upgrade to the 90amp Maxima alternator, which is a great bump up from the stock 70amp alternator.
But if you have done some upgrades such as dual radiator e-fans, aftermarket sound system, etc.. you might need more than just the 90amp.
Mind you that the 90amp rating is generally at its peak RPM, which is around 5000 rpms. The common drive range is 2-4000.
There are a few other choices for alternators as well;
SATAN and a few others have ran the 2003 Nissan 350Z 110amp alternator (almost a direct bolt in)
I have ran the 1999 Nissan Maxima 125 alternator (requires some modification)
I am sure there are other ones as well.
And a GM 160 amp (mind you, not Nissan)
Well, my 99 Maxima alternator was going out and I knew I had a life time warranty on it with Napa.
So I decided to research other alternatives.
I found that the 2005 Nissan Titan alternator has the highest output of 150amp and requires very little modifications to install it.
Its kinda spendy though, but its well worth it. Especially if you get one that has a life time warranty on it.
The total was around $285.
The alternator as it sits. Its pretty beefy.
The documentation that it came with. Notice that amps by RPM specs. Looks good!!
Stock z31 plug. You may need to put a bigger i-crimp on it.
I made this harness for the ground for the alternator to be a quick unplug.
Notice the pulley has more ribs. Thats okay. You don't need to get a wider belt. The belt I am using is the stock z31 alternator belt.
This is the only modification you need to do (unless you get a different alternator bracket).
This bracket I made is simply an extension for the adjuster. The alternator bracket is the stock z31 one.
All bolted in. It bolts up tight and works great!
edicer2: (2011-11-30 02:05:36)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
what if that extension you made rattles loose collapses or is there a way to secure it good? Great find though i will probably do this to my 86na when i convert it to the passenger side.
shromy: (2011-11-30 02:21:45)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
Why would that happen? Bolts have lock washers and the spades fit tightly together. Other than the spade its nearly a stock setup.
NissanEgg: (2011-11-30 02:34:24)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
I think he meant the extension for the adjustment bracet. I think as long as the alternator end of the extension is tight up against the alt casing it shouldn't move or collapse.
edicer2: (2011-11-30 04:51:26)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
yeah i was referring to what nissanegg said.
Careless: (2011-11-30 05:39:54)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
so if you're making the adjustment bracket leave a bit of metal on both sides so you can heat and bend so that it braces the sides of the adjustment ear, like so:
[archived image: VfKCK.jpg]
they dont have to even be that long. just little tabs like you see on banjo bolts for brake caliper lines.
Careless: (2011-11-30 05:40:43)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
nice find on the alternator too :-)
Rat1314: (2011-11-30 06:56:04)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
Good find, when mine dies I'll look at doing this
87zxturbo: (2011-11-30 11:58:54)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
+1[archived image: smile.png]
amreboot: (2011-11-30 15:23:59)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
So far so good! No problems.
The extension bracket I made is just a strip of 1/8" steel with two holes for the bolts.
I used locking washers.
If done right, I guarantee that it will not come loose.
tnokes9: (2011-12-07 13:29:55)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
For the 86 n/a, you will need to change the pulley to the "V" belt type.
edicer2: (2011-12-07 16:01:07)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
[quote]tnokes9 wrote:
what if that extension you made rattles loose collapses or is there a way to secure it good? Great find though i will probably do this to my 86na when i convert it to the passenger side.
For the 86 n/a, you will need to change the pulley to the "V" belt type.
can i swap a pulley that has 1 ribbed and 2 v? I also want to swap it to the passenger side so when i want to turbo it. I think i still have my brackets i bought from someone.
amreboot: (2011-12-07 16:24:42)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
[quote]edicer2 wrote: [quote=tnokes9]
what if that extension you made rattles loose collapses or is there a way to secure it good? Great find though i will probably do this to my 86na when i convert it to the passenger side.
For the 86 n/a, you will need to change the pulley to the "V" belt type.
can i swap a pulley that has 1 ribbed and 2 v? I also want to swap it to the passenger side so when i want to turbo it. I think i still have my brackets i bought from someone.
With the V belt type pulleys you will need to change something for it to work.
You can take off the stock z31 pulley from the alternator, bore it out and you should be good.
It might be easier to just swap to the turbo crank pulley that has the 1 ribbed and 2 v's and grab the waterpump ribbed pulley as well.
88sinZ: (2012-01-21 09:27:27)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
holy macaroni 150A!
phx87t: (2012-02-05 22:44:47)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
[attachment=1:2szn19xb]IMAG0234-1-1.jpg[/attachment:2szn19xb]
[attachment=0:2szn19xb]IMAG0233-1.jpg[/attachment:2szn19xb]
I used the pully off my old maxima 90 amp small spacer used behind the pully. Install was a breeze
manrossdamn: (2012-02-08 19:44:43)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
Sweet stuff!
Maybe if I need to I can do this and save alot of headaches in the future!
Good find 8)
maxpower91: (2012-04-01 06:51:00)
Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato
Just incase any of this info helps anyone…
The alternator is HITACHI Part # LR1130701BAM
It can be found on the following cars
Infiniti QX56 2004-2007
Nissan Armada 2005-2007
Nissan Pathfinder 2004
Nissan Titan 2004-2007
DeleriousZ: (2013-05-08 15:11:37)
The Titan alt I just picked up has the tensioner hole in a slightly different position, I'll get pics of it later on.
turbofedz: (2013-05-09 00:56:56)
Ok keep us posted I'm interested in this mod.90amp max is on is way out.
boosted300: (2013-05-09 01:28:50)
I did this upgrade…absolutely killer plenty of juice and no issues so far
NissanSportMag: (2013-08-20 02:26:35)
I realize this is an old post, but you have to realize something.... The alternator spins a LOT faster than the motor because of the pulley size differences.
If the drive pulley (on the car) is twice as big as the driven pulley, then the alternator spins twice as fast as the motor.
So..... Your 1,000 RPM idle is spinning the alternator at 2,000rpms. I don't know what the actual numbers are for the ratio, but it's very simple to calculate.
Diameter of the crank pulley divided by the diameter of the alternator pulley is the number of times faster the alternator is spinning than the indicated engine RPM. Just a guess, but I'm thinking the crank pulley is at least twice as big as the alt pulley here. So it will be over 90amps any time the motor is idling.
gorekill: (2014-02-22 20:40:29)
The Titan alt I just picked up has the tensioner hole in a slightly different position, I'll get pics of it later on.
I just got home after finishing this upgrade. My alternator looks much larger than yours does in the pictures. I will take photos of the bracket I made and the aftermath of such install. I can do a more thorough install guide as well to get added to this How To Guide.
les_joey_paul: (2014-09-03 02:20:21)
Did anybody who has completed this upgrade need to run a heavier gauge wire for anything?
Or is the stock wiring still enough?
amreboot: (2014-09-03 03:12:41)
Did anybody who has completed this upgrade need to run a heavier gauge wire for anything?
Or is the stock wiring still enough?
I used stock wiring… no issues.
Kimbro Slice: (2014-09-03 04:30:58)
The only reason you'd need to run a lower gauge would be if the alternator was pumping out more volts.
Being amperage the factory stuff handles it just fine.
Axel kain: (2014-09-03 12:22:49)
This makes no sense, it's the amperage that determines wire gauge/diameter. why is the starter feed cable huge from the battery? - Amps!
anyway, staying on topic, I made a 1/4" spacer and used this: the 3.75" version
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stalla…FVFp7AodxmcAbg
les_joey_paul: (2014-09-03 17:55:50)
The only reason you'd need to run a lower gauge would be if the alternator was pumping out more volts.
Being amperage the factory stuff handles it just fine.
Not to be a dick, but amps are probably the most important thing to consider when deciding an appropriate gauge wire to handle a load.
les_joey_paul: (2014-09-03 17:58:00)
Pics? What is the spacer for?
The rod you linked to can be used in place of the custom metal bracket extension part that was in the OP? shaped similar to a T ?
Axel kain: (2014-09-03 19:54:54)
I need to get it back out of the box, I mocked it up on my spare engine, then boxed it till I can put it on. the spacer is to get the heim away from the alt, as it was binding against the front of the alt. the rod rids you of the need for the adjuster bracket and T part etc. run the rod from the mounting point on the engine, to the lower mount on the alt!
les_joey_paul: (2014-09-03 21:25:15)
Fantastic. I'll try it this way. Still have to compile a turbo crank and water pump pulley, as well as the belt and alternator itself.
I'll end up chopping the middle of that harness and extending it so it fits comfortably. Btw do you know the gauge of all the wires in the harness? I'm guessing it's 14 gauge for the thick white wire? I'll probably just use 11 gauge for the smaller wires and 10 for the thick one ( for like 6 inches of extension )
G-E: (2014-09-03 22:36:21)
I would prefer the bracket being on the block if the endlink can't clear the curved body…
turbofedz: (2014-09-04 03:37:02)
I need to do this upgrade ASAP thanks for the info.
Axel kain: (2014-09-04 12:33:53)
it's not about clearing the curved body, its the outside of the heim at the alt hitting the underside of the alt body, just from being too close is all. I'll see if I can do a picture later this week…
jaqattack02: (2014-09-04 15:05:21)
Did anybody who has completed this upgrade need to run a heavier gauge wire for anything?
Or is the stock wiring still enough?
Unless you've added a lot of electrical accessories the load on the alternator isn't any different, so I don't see any reason why heavier wire would be needed.
DeleriousZ: (2014-09-04 15:57:35)
Unless you've added a lot of electrical accessories the load on the alternator isn't any different, so I don't see any reason why heavier wire would be needed.
Unless you've added a lot of electrical accessories, what is the point of adding a larger alternator in the first place? lol.
G-E: (2014-09-04 16:10:40)
The quest alternator harness is twice the thickness of the z31 and it's only 125A, interpolate what you will
Kimbro Slice: (2014-09-04 16:45:19)
Well I'm guess I'm just retarded lol
Axel kain: (2014-09-11 17:22:09)
FYI - as far as using the speedway link, I will be back with a belt length/part # to go with that, as it sets the alt just out of reach of the stock belt.
floridaZ: (2014-10-05 03:26:16)
Axel Kain… 42.5" or 43" depending on how good you are at fucking with the bolts. However I would NOT recommend going with a 3.75" length since a smaller unit would likely work better and possibly could use the stock belt.
IMG_20141004_181404_414.jpg
You'd probably need the 1/4" spacer with either heim, though it might work without it if the tensioner was short enough. I dislike the amount of play in the bolt holes in the heims, though on a tensioner it's a functionality non-issue. Smaller bolt holes in the heims would make it a little more professional looking, anyways. Either way you will need to replace the stock tensioner bolt with a longer unit (I used m8 - 1.25 x 80mm) for the oil pump. A shorter overall length would give you more comfortable clearance between the radiator hose, the alt pulley and belt, and the PS belt. Bolted into the stock location it interfered, I had to move it up and towards the rear of the car by 1/8".
Instead of having a bolt on each side of the alt, I wanted to run one long bolt through like the PS pump did. This allowed me to use the spacer that came attached to my Titan alt. It required drilling a 7/16" hole through each side of the mount, and grinding out the low spot with a Dremel. I don't remember the dimensions of the bolt I used.
IMG_20141004_163141_364.jpg
Another point worth noting is that with a 3.75" length turnbuckle, this setup may not work on the turbo autos/people running the stock oil cooler setup. I don't exactly have a stock setup, but it's close enough that I believe that there would be problems running this setup (alternator, oil lines, lower coolant hose, PS hose, and one of the AC lines try to take up some of the same space). With a shorter turnbuckle tensioner this should be a non-issue. I can't vouch for using the stock tensioner and an extension.
IMG_20141004_164314_889.jpg
Now for my QUESTION. My stock plug attaches, and I'm assuming that the two grounds pictured go to the smaller wire harness side. Does the larger (I believe white) wire go to the stud on the side of the alternator?
G-E: (2014-10-05 06:33:18)
Alternator has a voltage out (big stud), exciter/sense in (2 prong plug), and grounds…
Axel kain: (2014-10-06 12:37:16)
here's what I did. stock belt is too short with the 3.75" with it bolted up like stock. so I made this little extension bracket, shaped to jamb up against the alt, to prevent any rotation in the undesired direction. working decently so far. nice thing is, with this I can use the stock belt. Had to open up the main power wire terminal a little, and bolted the ground to one of the through bolts of the case.Titan Alt.jpg
floridaZ: (2014-10-06 21:46:37)
Yea, just figured I'd make sure before I hooked the battery back up that I had it right. And the more I look at it, the more I think a link half the size I used would be perfect.
les_joey_paul: (2014-10-19 17:39:55)
I remember seeing on the fb group that there was a way to mount the alternator with utilizing the factory bracket and using the adjuster bolt differently.
Can anybody elaborate on this?
Maybe some pics for clarification and if the oem ribbed belt will work that way.
Axel kain: (2014-10-20 15:02:25)
with my setup Im using a stock belt.
les_joey_paul: (2014-10-20 20:52:24)
Can I use the smaller heim joint and mount from the oem bracket mount? I'm not really in a position to make a little metal extension. Unless you can make an extra one to send me lol.
I'm getting ready to compile my parts for the upgrade.
amreboot: (2014-10-20 21:14:25)
Can I use the smaller heim joint and mount from the oem bracket mount? I'm not really in a position to make a little metal extension. Unless you can make an extra one to send me lol.
I'm getting ready to compile my parts for the upgrade.
I have a very sketchy pic that I drew up in MS Paint on how to use stock bracket without the metal extension....
Don't criticize me for my awesome drawing…
floridaZ: (2014-10-20 21:15:31)
Get a heim setup like… 1"-1.5" shorter than what I used. You should be able to get one with a smaller ID, which might bring the entire thing's size down where you don't need to space it out from the alternator body. If it runs from the oil pump bolt to the alt it requires no bracket/extension.
les_joey_paul: (2014-10-21 00:38:09)
I have a very sketchy pic that I drew up in MS Paint on how to use stock bracket without the metal extension....
Don't criticize me for my awesome drawing…
This is exactly.
So the adjuster bolt just screws into the alt that way without issue?
amreboot: (2014-10-21 14:33:21)
Yuppers!
les_joey_paul: (2014-10-21 15:00:47)
Sweetness. And I need to extend the wiring harness too. The white wire that leads back to the battery positive, that looks like 10 gauge to me. Is that accurate? I was planning to add an extra foot of wire to the harness that runs across the width of the engine. I want to solder 10 gauge to the white, and I guess 14 for the rest.
Axel kain: (2014-10-21 16:18:56)
I'd run a beffier wire from the alt ring to battery, def not 10 ga.
les_joey_paul: (2014-10-21 16:49:43)
I'm only adding a foot or so. Although. .. does that wire go straight from the alt to the battery? I could probably make my own like 4 gauge short wire instead of extending the already long harness
Axel kain: (2014-10-21 17:43:34)
pretty sure it's from alt through the fuse link box, then to the battery, although I'd rather run a larger gauge, and lug wire directly to the battery, with a more appropriate size - real- fuse. I plan to do this on whatever street car I wind up installing another alt on. as the current install on the race car, it only has lights, and fans to power…
floridaZ: (2014-10-21 20:51:11)
The stock length will work, but the extra foot would be really nice. Although, for me the big obstacle for the install was wiggling it past the radiator.
les_joey_paul: (2014-10-21 21:07:02)
It's already a super tight fit with just the swapping alternator to the other side from na2t.
NissanEgg: (2014-10-22 00:05:18)
I ran a secondary power wire from the battery positive to the alternator post when I did my 350Z/G35 125A alternator upgrade. I didn't trust the factory wire to support that kind of load, so a second wire parallel to the factory splits the load and should never have any issues.
Allout: (2014-10-22 18:55:52)
Dimensionally, how much larger is the Titan alternator vs. Stock - roughly?
amreboot: (2014-10-22 20:16:29)
Dimensionally, how much larger is the Titan alternator vs. Stock - roughly?
I would say about ~20% larger
cavalier0: (2015-04-30 11:59:10)
hey, so quick question on this, i have a mechanic friend of mine doing this swap and he said that i need a voltage regulator connector for the titan or something like that in order to hook it up all the way
anyone have any idea where i can pick one of those up?
NissanEgg: (2015-04-30 15:19:38)
Not needed. It's a pure electrical plug and play using Z31 harness. The voltage regulator is inside the alternator.
amreboot: (2015-04-30 15:20:39)
Your mechanic friend doesn't sound so mechanic-y....
To be clear, both the z31 and the titan (and most Nissans) have the voltage regulator built into the alternator.
The 2005 Titan alternator has the same plug as the z31.
The voltage regulator plug type changes in 2008.
Thats why I suggested being safe and choosing the 2005 model.
cavalier0: (2015-04-30 22:30:40)
Neat, thanks for the advice, thanks
cavalier0: (2015-05-01 01:32:20)
okay, sorry for the doublepost, he wasn't super clear on what connector he was talking about
he meant the connector from the voltage regulator to the ECU
NissanEgg: (2015-05-01 02:50:48)
okay, sorry for the doublepost, he wasn't super clear on what connector he was talking about
he meant the connector from the voltage regulator to the ECU
ECU doesn't regulate the voltage like the newest cars do. It's all self-contained inside the alternator.
Axel kain: (2015-05-01 15:08:41)
you need to find a new, more knowledgeable (post 70's) mechanic friend.
cavalier0: (2015-05-01 17:20:22)
alright, again, many thanks for the help
been throwing a lot of money into my car
Mr.510: (2015-08-03 02:25:50)
I see some posts in this thread that scare me as I really don't like it when cars catch fire, especially at speed! You need a charge wire from the alternator to the battery that can handle continuous 100% output from the alternator. Regardless of what sort of loads you can apply with added electrical accessories if your battery voltage is low after starting the alternator will charge at it's maximum capacity and the stock charge wire is NOT big enough to safely handle a 150+ amp load. Hook jumper cables from your car to one with a dead battery and the alternator will also charge at it's maximum capacity.
The stock alternator was 70 amps and used a 10 gauge charge wire. This is large enough to safely carry the maximum charge load from a 90 amp Maxima alternator. If you run a 110 amp Quest alternator you should either replace the charge wire with one that's 8 gauge or run a second charge wire of at least 16 gauge in parallel directly from the charge post to the positive battery terminal. For a 150 amp alternator you should replace the charge wire with one that's 6 gauge, or add a parallel wire of at least 12 gauge.
Anytime I install an alternator over 90amps I add a parallel 12 gauge charging wire as I prefer to not modify stock wiring as a general practice. There's no such thing as too large of a charge wire and many of these ~30 year old car's wiring harnesses are not in the best shape. Age and heat break down the insulation and corrosion increases the resistance in every connection. Vibration and rough handling breaks individual strands in the wires reducing capacity.
Food for thought: Over the years I've replaced the stock charge wire because it was fried in at least a dozen Nissans, and not a single one had a larger than stock alternator.