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roastin300: (2006-05-31 15:40:51)

The Holset Turbocharger FAQ

By: Roastin300

This FAQ is provided to help with the installation of a Holset turbocharger from the Dodge Cummins turbo diesel trucks. While each turbocharger can be fitted, this particular install is an HX35 model turbo from the 5 speed Cummins.

Why choose a Holset turbo you say? Well, there are many good reasons. Some include their very low cost used, comparable specs to the Garrett aftermarket high performance turbos (in fact, Holset started out making outright Garrett knock-offs), they are easy to come by online used and still in good working condition, most have T3-compatible turbine housing flanges, and some have internal wastegates.

First, lets take a look at some of the different models of Holset turbochargers that can be obtained, and their specs in comparison to a Garrett turbo:

HY35 – Came on the Automatic 5.9L Dodge Cummins. Turbine housing roughly has a .55 A/R and a T3 stage 3 turbine wheel. The compressor housing is about .60 A/R and the compressor wheel flow is .46 kg/s, which converts to 60.8 lbs/min.

HX35 – Came in the 5 speed 5.9L Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel. Very similar to the HY35, has the same turbine and compressor wheels but utilizes roughly a .80 A/R turbine housing and a .70 A/R Compressor housing. Also flows 60.8 lbs/min.

HX40 – Came in the 8.3L Dodge Turbo Diesel motors. Everything on this turbo is much larger, the turbine housing is a 1.00 A/R+ and the turbine wheel is approximately a P trim in garret specs. The compressor housing is approximately a .70 A/R and the compressor wheel flows .53 kg/s, which converts to 70.1 lbs/min.

HX50/55 – Enormous, never seen one in person but the compressor wheel flows .75 kg/s which converts to 99 lb/min.

H1C – Came on the much older Dodge Cummins. Very similar to the HX35 but flows slightly less and is said to spool a little slower due to older and less efficient technology.

H1E – Comparable to the HX40 specs, but the older version just like the H1C is to the HX35.

This information I have given is not exact, however, it is composed of good approximations from my research I have done along with a margin of error for unit conversion.

Choosing Your Holset:

Selecting the “right” model from these turbos to fit on a Z31 300ZX’s VG30ET engine is fairly simple.The HY35 will support about 400RWHP, will spool very fast, nearly as fast as a stock T3. I am currently running the HX35 and it will support roughly 450RWHP, and my spool time is around 3600-3800 full 18lbs boost. This is comparable to the spool you would expect from a Garrett “stage 3” turbine and a large T4 compressor, and the same performance, but at a fraction of the cost. I used to run a HX40 in the past, but I didn’t get full 18lbs of boost until around 4300RPM, making for a very short power-band. Because of its larger sized turbine and housing, the HX40 should support 550RWHP+.

I don’t recommend the H1C or H1E because they are outdated and harder to find anyway; the HX50/55 is just stupid-huge for our 3.0 Liter V6 and would be a very poor investment (unless you plan to spool it with gobs of nitrous).

Installation:

To fit a HX35 into a Z31 300ZX, a few relatively minor modifications must be done to the turbo and oil delivery system. Let’s look at the mechanical side of it:

The compressor housing needs modification. You need to grind down the V-band outlet on the 2.5” compressor outlet. This needs to be done so a normal 2.5” silicone coupling can be slid over it and clamped. This picture kind of shows it, you will fully understand what I mean when it comes time and you have the turbo in front of you.

Some Holset models have two studs and four holes for the turbine housing inlet flange, instead of the “usual” 4 holes with 4 studs on the manifold. You can simply drill the studs out of the turbine housing with a clearance hole large enough for the studs on your manifold to clear.

Next is the wastegate actuator. The stock Holset wastegate actuator should not be used as it is designed to run a lot more boost and will probably not fit well if at all with the turbocharger mounted. Almost any internal wastegate actuator from another car can be used because they all work in the same way. I chose to use a Ford 2.3 Liter turbo actuator diaphragm. I cut the rod and welded in an adjustable end to adjust my preload on the actuator’s internal spring. It will also need a new bracket to hold the actuator itself physically to the compressor housing. I was able to cut, bend and drill the stock Ford bracket to work. As you can see the actuator rod is pretty short and I bolted it to one of the threaded holes on the turbine housing that the original unit bolted to.

The next part is much harder and requires some real fabrication skills. You need to make either a downpipe adaptor to the stock downpipe or aftermarket exhaust made to fit the stock turbo exhaust elbow’s 3-bolt flange. Another solution is to make a completely new custom downpipe. I chose to make an adaptor; here are a few pictures of it. First I made the flange to fit the turbine outlet.

Then I used the 3” mandrel bent pipe I purchased online to mate up with my 3” downpipe. I bought a 3 bolt universal 3” flange and welded it at the bottom to bolt to the downpipe. You can also see that I took the extra time to weld in a smoother transition for the wastegate opening rather than going straight into the flange and intersecting with the turbine exhaust flow. In theory this should give slightly better flow and more precise boost control.

Here are the pictures with the turbo installed:

Now as far as the oil system, the stock oil return works perfectly on the HX35. Mine is different because I have a N/A oil pan with a fitting welded on it. But I know it will work for a fact because I had this setup with a stock turbo, and when I swapped my HX35 in the oil return lined up and sealed perfectly.

The oil feed line must be swapped as the oil inlet on the Holset turbos are threaded and need a fitting. I purchased a stainless steel –4 AN line with an adaptor fitting to go from the block to the line, and bought a fitting that screwed into the holset turbo inlet and had the –4 AN fitting on the other end, presto, a great oil feed setup! The fitting size for the holset's oil inlet is 12mmx1.5, the oil feed hole from the vg30 block is 12mmx1.25

For the intake before the compressor you can go many routes from a pipe motor mount setup, a new motor mount to route big 4” piping to it, the sky is the limit. If you have a MAP sensor with a speed-density system like myself, I run a little butterfly filter right on the compressor inlet with no extra piping to deal with!

You will need to rotate the center section and compressor housing as needed to fit right in the vehicle to line up the compressor outlet, oil feed and oil return. This is called “clocking” the turbo and is fairly easy to do with it test-fitted in place.

That’s it; happy hunting for a used Holset!


JoCkeWe: (2006-06-02 23:57:21)

I have a H1E sitting in my garage for no use, what do you think about that on a VG? I'm currently running a T70, But doesn't like to have a ebay-turbo in my car… Should I go with the H1E?

Current spec is forged internals, ported heads and cams, pathy intake and FMIC + some other fun stuff. Goal for this summer is 15-20 PSI boost… T70 or H1E? [archived image: smile.png]


roastin300: (2006-06-03 01:35:53)

Well its hard to say, i am not very familiar with the H1E. As i said in my FAQ, the H1E has very similar specs to a HX40 but is a little older technology. The main thing is what size turbine housing it uses. The HX40 uses a 16cm turbine housing which is about a 1.10 A/R, which is pretty damn big. Alot of those H1C and H1E turbos use even larger turbine housings. The compressor on the H1E will flow almost as much as the T70 but the turbine housing is probably too big and will have even more lag than the T70. Look on the turbine housing and look for a 16cm or 18cm or 20cm or 22cm marking. It might just even be a number casted in there sitting by itself without "cm" following it. Thats how my HX40 is. I have an HX40 im selling you know that i already modified to make it fit and work in a Z31, i even have a downpipe flange to start with that i fabricated because the stock holset v-band hit the steering rack. At my high altitude on a stock low compression motor i got full 18lbs of boost around 4300RPM. The HX40 on 20 pounds on a VG would do close to 500RWHP.


MachZ: (2006-06-19 21:57:30)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I've actually heard that the HY35 has a slightly smaller/different compressor wheel than the HX35 (maybe depending on the year perhaps?). I know there's a guy selling Holsets on Ebay that modified an HY35 to accept the HX35 compressor wheel. Maybe he meant the housing itself though… I'll try finding it again to verify.

Its also probably worth mentioning that the HY35 has a single scroll turbine housing while the HX35 has a twin scroll turbine housing.


roastin300: (2006-06-21 10:58:19)

good call. the HY35 has a normal single entry turbine housing like the stock Z31 housing and the HX35 has a divided housing. Im just going off of the info i gathered online searching, the HY35 and HX35 flows the same amount from the compressor. The way i know the compressor housing is physically larger on the HX35 is that my friend has a HY35 and we put my HX35 next to his and the compressor housing seems to have a larger A/R because my HX35 is bigger, physically.


MachZ: (2006-06-21 17:11:52)

Interesting… I wish Holset, now apparently Cummins Turbo Technologies, would post some maps. I'd like to see the difference the housing makes if the two wheels are the same.


cheezmonta: (2006-07-12 12:01:20)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ***

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I've been seeing more and more H1C and H1E's poping up on Ebay latly and for way cheaper than the HY/HX. Has anyone actually tried running one of these to see just how much slower spoolup might be?

I mean if they only spool a little slower than thier newer counterparts then it might be worth saving the cash at a cost of what? 200-500rpm slower spoolup?

I could live with HX spool up but HY power if it means saving a good $300+.


MachZ: (2006-07-12 18:42:10)

I missed out on an incredible deal for an HY35… brand new they only wanted 400 for it. I was… quite mad when I saw it sold. :lol:

You can definitely tell a huge size difference between the H1 turbine housing and the HX and HY turbine housing. They're quite large. The H1C's came with two different turbines from the Dodge Cummins, a 21 cm/2 exhaust housing and an 18 cm/2 while the HY is a 9 and most HX's are 12. Some modified HX's are 14. I would think the spooling difference would be pretty drastic but have no proof to back that up.

If the HY is the equivalent of a .55 a/r then I would assume that the H1 would theoretically be over a 1.00… somewhere in the area of 1.28 since the 21 housing is 2.33 times larger than the HY's 9. 21 is 1.75 times the HX's 12 cm housing which comes out to 1.4 on the H1… so maybe its somewhere between there?

If its the 18, being 2 times the HY, I would think it would be in the area of a 1.10 a/r… but I could be totally wrong.

This is a pretty good Holset info site:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm


es3: (2006-07-25 06:13:50)

Just thought I'd look up some prices on ebay for fun. I actually couldn't find any hx-35's, however I did find an hx-35W. I kinda assume they are the same thing. Would I be correct in this assumption?


roastin300: (2006-07-29 23:43:19)

actually you want to get a HX35W to be more specific. The "W" stands for "Internal Wastegate". Like the HX40 i have, its really a HX40W and has an internal gate on that big ass thing. But you can just get a HX40 that uses an external gate instead, just like you can on alot of the H1C's and H1E's. I know the HY35 ALWAYS comes with an internal gate and i thought all the HX35's did too. Forget what the poeple selling them say, look at the pictures and determine if it has an internal wastegate or not.


ZDaddy: (2006-08-23 20:29:32)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I'm just starting to learn how to read compression maps…but I was wondering if the HX30 is good too?

I heard the HX25 flows as much as the T3.

I'm starting to wonder about other turbos now too.

What other turbos besides garrett and Holset are great?

Whats with this SCHWITZER turbo…I think they came off MACK trucks?

I'm curious because it took this long for Holsets to catch on and now I'm

curious if there are others like it out there.


roastin300: (2006-08-24 01:37:51)

Im sure there are other brands that would work with our cars. Thing is about holset is its actually a T3 flange, has an internal gate and has appropriate size turbine housing wheel and A/R and ideal compressor flow ability. Most turbos on turbo diesels are improperly sized for an engine like ours. Most are huge ass 1.00+ A/R turbines and have compressors that flow even less. Very unideal. The HX30 i wouldnt even deal with. I dont know much about it but im sure it flows quite a bit less than the HX35. If your going with an aftermarket fuel system i would never use anything less than a HX35. I personally think the HY35 turbine side is too small for our engine, but obviously better than stock so.....depends on what your going for.


ZDaddy: (2006-08-24 04:46:54)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

really the HY35 is not bad. The max choke load limit or whatever it is called is 29 compared to the HX35's 32. It's really not that much difference. Who's gonna run beyond 29psi anyways? The HY35 just spools up a bit faster because the HY was designed for the autos(for better stop and go). It has the same flow ratings as the HX35 and can make the same HP gains and you'd need the same fuel upgrades as if you were going HX35. Both compressor housings and compressor wheels are exactly the same(except for the HY's extra elbow). In fact I would prefer the HY because its faster spool up makes it close to the T3 spool up. It's crazy man. I'm thoroughly convince that Holsets ARE the shit. HY just has a bad rap…and are cheaper because of it. Even so, I'd still like to know everything that is out there. I hear ya on other Diesel Turbos though…


G-E: (2006-08-24 07:47:26)

I was just thinking, you could machine a spacer plate with a conical section attached that slips into the turbine housing making the entry narrower for higher velocity

you could do this to any large turbine and very likely get quicker spool by cheating it into behaving like a smaller a/r


ZDaddy: (2006-08-24 13:37:59)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Holset beat you to it

http://www.holset.co.uk/files/2_5_1_5-VGT.php

They actually had one on ebay that no one bought for $50.

I was tempted to get it but I wouldnt know what to do with it since it

is computer controlled with all kinds of sensors.

EDIT: I found another one on ebay but this one has some people's attention.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-H…QQcmdZViewItem


cheezmonta: (2006-08-24 13:45:14)

If it's anything like the VGT turbos on the Ford Powerstroke's then it just has a simple .5-5v control silonoid that could easily be controlled by something like a standalone or AVCR.

Also I just have to whore a pic of my new toy :P

Holset HY35. $404 shipped NEW in box! Ebay rocks!!!


ZDaddy: (2006-08-24 14:08:10)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

z

Thats nice!

I'm keeping an eye out for holsets. I want to get a rebuildable core for cheap.

But they are getting more and more expensive. So far I'm seeing holsets that are completely

screwed…the wheels are chipped/broken and have hit the compressor wall gouging it…or the shafts

are broken or there are missing parts or the compressor housing is cracked or bashed or twisted all

going for an average of $200 on ebay. It's pretty crazy.

I couple days ago some dude listed a BRAND NEW HX35 on ebay. Strangely it was a 1 day listing and

when I found it the bid was at $87. I freaked. I knew it was worth atleast $900 but all I could possibly afford

was $200 so I bid that. I was on top until literally the last minute. When for $350 and something like 13 people bid within that last minute. It was still cheap though.

I'm trying not to get desperate but I need a Holset turbo for my 88T motor :cry:

I like your turbo though, mnakes me drool


roastin300: (2006-08-25 02:42:23)

Babydude, I understand the differences, if you didnt read this thread which is my FAQ, it states the differences between the HY35 HX35 HX40 H1C and H1E. I am well aware of the differences. Yes the compressor flows the same between the HX35 and HY35 however it doesnt matter how much the compressor flows if the turbine housing cant support it. You can make more power on the HX35 than the HY35 PERIOD because of a slightly larger turbine. I was just not impressed with the HY35 dyno i saw, 328RWHP on 16psi. My HX35 would hopefully do close to or more than 400RWHP on the same boost level on a stock longblock. The HY35 is a fricken sweet turbo for the street im not going to lie. The hx35 only spools a little slower and has more room for top end flow and better power on higher boost. And what i have noticed is the HY35 is more popular than the HX35 because it does have a smaller turbine making it very popular for 4 cylinder guys. I see HY35's go for $400 used alot, its crazy. I think a Holset is worth $400 compared to a garrett $600-800 turbo. Its funny though, only a year ago they were like $125 and 2-3 years ago they were going for $60-80 on ebay in GOOD shape, i cant believe how they have gone up so much in price!!! I got my HX35 you see in the pics in great shape for $230 shipped on ebay less than a year ago....


ZDaddy: (2006-08-25 13:49:30)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Yes they are definately worth it! Only problem is I'm so freakin' poor man. I wish they had these in the JY because they'd go for $40-$60 ea. Then I'd rebuild them for myself.

As far as the prices now…yeah people are catching on thanks to people like you telling everyone :lol: j/k.

If it werent for you I'd be investing in a stock T3 for my 88T motor so thanks for write ups like this.

I guess it would be worth it to get one of these so I can go back and get some HX35's for $60-$80!

Maybe I'll play some lotto numbers while I'm there....hmmm I guess I would be rich then. Which means I wouldnt need the fluxcapacitor to go back in time for cheaper turbos....which means I never would have played the winning numbers which means I wouldnt be rich which means I would still need to go back in time for cheap turbos.... :? someone help me


roastin300: (2006-09-30 20:42:00)

Anyone else done this yet? I would be curious to see everyone elses results....please add on if you have pics!! [archived image: smile.png]


e36'n: (2006-10-02 19:17:37)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

That's the HE351 I believe. Great turbo as it's slightly more efficient than the HY35.

Does anyone know what I need to feed oil into a HY35? I just bought a used a new one.

Great thread btw.


roastin300: (2006-10-03 00:17:17)

get an adaptor to fit the holset threads on the center section with a -4AN fitting on the other end. Connect that to stainless steel line, and connect that to fitting thats a -4AN on one side and the stock nissan oil feed threads on the block which is like 10 or 12 X 1.5. I still need to figure these threads out for everyone, i already run this setup, purely sweet! about $40 for everything locally!


roastin300: (2006-10-04 20:37:22)

the stock oil return outlet flange works perfect, bolts right onto the center section and lines up with the oil pan, at least my HX35 did!


e36'n: (2006-10-04 21:53:38)

[quote]Lance wrote:

{{#if:e36'n|e36'n wrote:|Quote:}}

Sorry for the wrong info. It is 12x1.5.


Lance: (2006-10-08 01:56:15)

I checked the threads for our oil feed line, the banjo bolt is 12x1.25


ZDaddy: (2006-11-08 16:19:56)

For all you holset guys…hows the space between the compressor housing and the frame?

Are there any signs that there is rubbing going on down there?

It looks really really close…like a hairline space.


JK: (2006-11-08 18:26:59)

Yes it fits, you have to clock the turbo so the center cartridge has the oil drain and the inlet on a vertical axis. The oil is drained by gravity mostly so it it important to have the line pointing directly down. If your turbo is used, it is a good idea to gently separate the turbine from the center cartridge and clean it so it will turn easily when put together and then tighten the clamp. Also the compressor has a large spring clip to hold it to the center cartridge. It might be easier to go to a garage that has a large clip remover. This spring can be a bear, especially if you don't have the right tool.


ZDaddy: (2006-11-13 16:22:32)

[quote]Jason84NA2T wrote:

{{#if:babydude|babydude wrote:|Quote:}}

Looks dangerously close No? Has anyone seen signs of it rubbing/hitting at some point due to engine movement?

That's no closer than mine is. If you're concerned about the movement, get some poly engine isolators in there. They redcued engine movement by a measured factor of three on one modified car.

Yea I think I will be purchasing some when I install mine one day :wink:


zmech: (2006-11-20 19:56:32)

H1C

0


zmech: (2006-11-22 04:03:21)

Re: H1C

0


ZDaddy: (2007-01-06 22:08:55)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I say that looks about right. But the interesting thing is on Holset's website they have a mini map of the HX35 and HX40, and it shows the HX35 going up to 4 on the Pressure Ratio…this one shows it only going up to just past 3.

But the lbs/min limits are the same as on holset's website.

None of the maps are showing what we really would like to see…the efficiency islands! Thats where holset, in my opinion, is superior to any other turbo. I believe their effeciency islands on the HX series are very wide! But theres no way to prove it without the proper map.

I would like to make a page with all the Holset maps floating around the web. You'd be surprised what I found.


MachZ: (2007-01-10 03:20:12)

Here's an interesting compressor map by a company that modifies the HX35. This particular map is for a HX35 with an HX40 compressor setup. They avoid using the HX40 itself as it has a smaller shaft (HX35 is actually stronger than the HX40… interesting in itself. Dodge guys are saying the same thing as well on their forums.)

Here's the info and the map is in the Technical Info tab. http://www.citydiesel.net/dodgezilla-tu … h=22_27_50

May not help much but… maybe it will. :lol:


ZDaddy: (2007-01-28 19:41:30)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I dont know about that. The HX and H1C are of different design and technology all together. Smaller housing means it will flow less…and the H1C already flows less compared the the HX35, and will max out much quicker with a smaller turbine housing. Atleast thats the extent of my understanding.


davisranso: (2007-02-13 17:29:24)

Still in the process of shopping for a new turbo, I found this info about the Holset Hx-35/40 hybrid( I also found compressor maps for the Hx-40's if anyone's interested)…

Compressor

2.362 inducer

3.328 exducer

Turbine

2.753 inducer

2.364 exducer

Here is the specs on a straight Hx-40…

HX-40

Compressor

2.362 inducer

3.328 exducer

Turbine

2.995 inducer

2.480 exducer

Here are some specs from a Precision Sc6152 rated at 630hp…

Compressor

2.416"ind.

3.227"exd.

T350 Turbine (Stg 5)

2.920"ind.

2.420"exd.

Basically, the compressor is slightly bigger than a 60-1 but slightly smaller than the 61mm (gt35,t-61,sc61 etc.) but of course includes the Map width enhancement grooves in the compressor wheel supposedly making it about 10% more efficient than a compressor of similiar size. The Hx-35 turbine wheel is bigger than a stg 3 wheel but smaller than a stg 5, I guess a perfect stg "4" if there ever was such. The Hx-40 turbine wheel is bigger than a stg 5, and also slightly bigger than a p-trim.

Basically with all this being known, I would say the Hx-35/40 is a very attractive alternative to the 60-1, gt35 family, or anything else that uses the 61mm compressor. I would probably rate it's max potential between 620-660hp. The Hx-40 on the other hand I'm now thoroughly convinced it CAN achieve up to 700hp, but nothing more.

Basically…I've pretty much made up my mind that an Hx-35/40 hybrid is going to be my next turbo Pretty sweet considering they go for $799 brand new.

Oh yeah…I hope this actually potentially helped somebody


davisranso: (2007-02-13 17:41:42)

The Hx-40 maps I found were in a thread on the dsmtuner forum. I tried saving them but for some reason they got cut in half…so I'll just post the direct link.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthr … 083&page=5

Just look towards the bottom half of the page, there's 3 of them there. One is the 58mm 8 bladed compressor, another is the 7 bladed 60mm, and the other is the 6 bladed 60mm which is the highest flowing wheel.

Of course, another reason why Holsets are good choices for our cars is the divided turbine housings they have, which of course we have divided manifolds. A natural fit obviously, but that's one reason why they spool so fast. That's another reason why I'm starting to believe the Hx-35/40 hyrbid is one of the best turbos for our car period. It's just almost the perfect street/medium power turbo with the 12cm housing.

Based on the research I've done, (I hope I'm not sounding too fanboyish) but I think it's superior in every way to the 60-1 and the 61mm family.

Also, Hx-35's come in two different compressor trims…a 54mm wheel, and a larger 56mm. So some ARE better than others.


cheezmonta: (2007-02-13 18:01:29)

If a mod could attach these pics to the forum or something so they don't disapear if/when I clean out my photobucket in the future.


davisranso: (2007-02-13 18:14:16)

Also while on the topic, Hx-35's have two different compressor wheels…a 54mm and a 56mm. The smaller of the two probably flows slightly less than a 60-1 but the 56mm is either on par or slightly more efficient than the 60-1. The turbine wheels are all the same size, which is again roughly about a stg "4" i guess we could say. Pretty much this just reaffirms the fact that Hx-35's in either trim are cheaper and better alternatives to 60-1's.

As far as H1e's and WH1e's go…like the Hx40's that came after them, they also used the 58mm 8 bladed wheel, and the 60mm 7 bladed wheel. The H1e family also used the same turbines as the Hx-40, but also used many more sizes as well, plus they had many different turbine housing configurations. The most notable difference between the H1e family and the Hx-40's is the H1e's lack of map width enhancement, supposedly making them about 10% less efficient. The easiest way to look at an H1e is like a full T4 60-1. They all are t4 flanged with relatively large turbine housings and turbines, and run compressors very similiar to 60-1's. Your average H1e has a smaller, less efficient compressor than an Hx-40, but in most cases a larger turbine and turbine housing.

Another thing I've discovered is that it's not too hard to make a holset hybrid. Pretty much most Holsets from the H1c's and up have a 4 bolt pattern that connects from the turbine housing to the center section, meaning it's cake to swap to another (ie smaller) turbine housing. Also, after speaking with a few reputable diesel shops, most of the turbine wheels are very to swap onto other turbos. Why nobody has really explored making hybrids out of Holsets is weird, but it's not as hard as others have made it out to be. Pretty much any turbine and turbine housing from the H1c's to the H1e's and Hx35's to the Hx-40's can be interchanged. As far as the larger framed Holsets like the Hx-50's and up, I'm not sure on those yet…but everything else goes.


davisranso: (2007-02-16 00:32:58)

More info…

Model Compressor Turbine

Holset H1D 1.85 2.165

Holset H1D 1.969 2.165

Holset H1D/E 1.969 2.165

Holset H1D/E 2.047 2.165

Holset H1D/E 2.126 2.165

Holset H1C/E 2.126 2.244

Holset H1C/E 2.283 2.244

Holset H1C/E 2.126 2.362

Holset H1E 2.205 2.362

Holset H1E 2.283 2.362

TS04 2.300 3.304

60-1 2.324 3.000

Holset H1E 2.362 2.559

Holset HX40 2.362 2.559

T-61 2.382 3.544

62-1 2.441 3.000

Holset HX50 2.48 2.835

T-64 2.490 3.670

T-66 2.580 3.584

Holset HX50 2.638 3.031

Holset HX55 2.638 3.031

T-70 2.720 3.850

Holset HX55 2.835 3.031

T-72 2.840 4.030

T-76 3.020 4.030

Turbo CFM Racing HP Daily HP

HX35 600 420 330

HX40 800 560 440

T66 800 560 440

B1 900 630 495

H2E 1000 700 550

HX50 1000 700 550

HX55 1050 735 578

HT3B 1100 770 605

T76 1350 945 743

HT60 1400 980 770

B2 1500 1050 825

HX60 1550 1085 853

T88 1450-1750 1015-1225 798-963

HT4B 1800 1260 990

Big Brother 1900 1330 1045

T91 2000 1400 1100

HC5A/HX82 2450 1715 1348

T100 2600 1820 1430

T105 2900 2030 1595


wilson101: (2007-04-13 15:09:02)

Adding to davisranso info i found a website that sells compressor wheels to upgrade the hx35 to a 60mm wheel and hx35/40 turbo hybrids straight up.They even sell regular vband exhaust housing so u dont have to fab up your own flange.(Im not sure if im suppose to post merchant websites just tring to contribute)

http://www.htturbo.com/dodge.htm


Chris86NA2T: (2007-05-03 18:15:33)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

http://www.amstreetrod.com/991953ASR.php4 use this with a -6 to -4 reducer


cheezmonta: (2007-05-09 07:38:01)

Not sure exactly but I think the Hy/Hx are found on pretty much all 01 and newer Dodge Cummins turbo trucks.


davisranso: (2007-05-09 15:10:46)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

96+ have the Hx's; 2001's and up have Hy's.


cheezmonta: (2007-05-15 08:58:12)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/34MM-WAS … 0075576420

Came across this while looking for an acceptable actuator in a lower PSI than the stock 18psi Holset actuator. The stock valve flapper is about 31mm and you can get one of those replacements in up to 35mm. It would be a tight fit but I think it could be made to fit.

A bigger wastegate port would definatly help with the boost creep issues people seem to run into with these things when trying to run a lower pressure and keep the internal gate.


MachZ: (2007-05-22 00:01:49)

Re:

[quote]davisranso wrote:

{{#if:cheezmonta|cheezmonta wrote:|Quote:}}

Not sure exactly but I think the Hy/Hx are found on pretty much all 01 and newer Dodge Cummins turbo trucks.

96+ have the Hx's; 2001's and up have Hy's.

I believe only the auto's have the HY35's, even in the newer models.


RobP3ZXT: (2007-07-26 22:31:49)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

well, lets see I've got a bit of info

Effezi on NismoKC a fairly local nissan site, ran an 14cm H1C on his KA24de, he hit 15 psi at 3500 rpms and did a whopping 410whp, seems to me if that little motor can spool it up, we could easily.

also another KA friend of mine painstakingly got some maps out of them, so lets see if i can upload some.

edit: Oh god they're massive....editing…

edit2: fixed.


RobP3ZXT: (2007-07-26 22:41:28)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

one more:

h1e

DODGE 250 (deisle truck) 89-94.5 ---------------------HOL H1C

DODGE 2500 (deisle truck) 94.5-00 --------------------HOL HY35

DODGE 2500 (deisle truck) 00+ manual trans ---------HOL HY35


ZDaddy: (2007-07-27 20:03:17)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Thats an interesting HX30E map, it is slightly different than the one circulating the internet as the HX30W map. To me it just proves it was an experimental turbo....Please becareful with that map, it is not for any holset turbos on the market. Have you seen this thread?

http://vgpowered.informe.com/posting.ph … uote&p=784


RobP3ZXT: (2007-07-28 09:00:09)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

hm, after further looking into the matter, the only way my friend got that map out of holset is he was talking to a guy who was willing to pull maps for him as long as he sourced the serial, and that's one he gave to him, according to him, he's never seen the turbo sold or available in any way, so I expect it was a turbo used for development on another turbo, which would make sense that it's more hush hush.

also a bit more good information on what's on the diesels stock incase you want to go locate it yourself.

pulled from: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm


MachZ: (2007-08-14 18:47:28)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Turbine housing displacement… I wanted to compare the Holset turbine housing to some others I had laying around to see exactly how its size compared to regular Garrett styles. I compared it to a stock Z31 T3 and an old T4 I had laying that, I believe, is somewhere in the lower 1.xx a/r range. I need to find out exactly sometime so that the comparison gives a better idea of the difference but anyway… here are some pictures:

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp1.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp2.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp3.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp4.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp5.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp6.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp7.jpg

http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp8.jpg


roastin300: (2008-02-27 00:41:36)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I was asked a question on where i clocked the compressor to, my answer is this:

Outside of the car i made sure the compressor housing could rotate, then i just estimated roughly where it needed to be and installed the turbo. Then in the car i just used a pry bar and stuck it in the compressor housing outlet and pryed on it and clocked it to the position i wanted. Its just a big clip that holds it on so it does move when on there, just got to give it a little muscle. Hope this helps.


eat.sleep.blink: (2008-03-07 05:53:05)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I looked through all of this and I couldn't find out how to clock the exhaust side. I already know how to clock the compressor side but Im not sure about the hot side…There are 4 bolts on the hot side on the hx35 turbo, do I remove them? Because 2 of the bolts will get stuck on the oil entrance and exit. I want to know this because they are not vertical…More like diagonally flowing down like it should. Could I still run like this or is it best to clock the hot side and how? Thank you for your time.


gixxer750kid: (2008-03-07 17:37:19)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

It's BEST if you get it as straight up and down as possible from what I understand, but I CAN'T get my hotside to budge so I'm going to run it diagonally, it should be fine but to clock the hot side you should loosen or remove the 4 bolts holding down the 2 plates on the hotside and then your going to need to break it loose if it's rusted together like mine if not it should come up vertically.

BTW for the HC1 I had to cut a small chunk off the hot side for it to fit past the support beam in the engine bay.


MachZ: (2008-03-07 19:10:50)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

PB Blaster, heat, and some light tapping with a hammer should get it loose. I'd personally try taking the housings off, clean them up and lube them a bit, then clock them as needed. Will make your life so much easier.


roastin300: (2008-03-11 21:42:13)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

The hotside can be an A**hole i wont lie. Best thing to do is remove the 4 bolts, and spray PB blaster on it as much as possible over a couple days, then try to tap it off. If it wont budge then heat the turbine housing up, not the center section and it should come off with some force. When its off i suggest wire wheeling the seat on the center section and on the inside lip of the turbine housing to get it all cleaned up to fit on each other nicely. New bolts there are always a good idea as well. Additionally antiseize on these bolts and on the turbine outlet is a good idea as well, the heat likes to make these bolts seize very quickly for the next time you take the turbine housing or outlet off of it.


eat.sleep.blink: (2008-03-12 18:10:16)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I just wanted to say thank you for your list of parts haha. I have been trying to figure out what I need exactly but it has been taking me a while. Thank you!


eat.sleep.blink: (2008-03-13 16:40:29)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Well I finally got my hot side to move. So I would post what I did..Basically drench the place where they connect with PB blaster for about 5days. Heat it up for a little bit, buy a rubber mallet and go to town on it. It broke loose and it was so easy to turn..later last night I connected it up to my motor to see where the cool side needed to be clocked to and I took it off and re-clocked it..about my 3rd time so I can do it pretty quickly haha. Anyways just posting my results.

Also I searched the forum and I couldn't find anything about removing the silencer ring. Any easy way to do it? Or just leave it on?


MachZ: (2008-03-13 16:49:09)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Gently with a screw driver, just kind of pry the clip out and the ring will come right out. I'd personally recommend doing it as that ring would essentially disable the anti-surge part of the compressor.


eat.sleep.blink: (2008-03-28 01:26:55)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I have another question…How did you guys have the outlet facing? Like did you have it pointed up or do you have it pointing down kinda towards the oil pan and ran a 90 off of it? I am just asking so It doesn't kick me in the ass again when I drop it back in haha.. Thank you!


13PsiPlease: (2008-03-28 04:41:49)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

it all really depend on how you want to run your intercooler piping but i dont think there is any room to go down with it. I put my compressor housing in the same orentation as the stock t3 so i wouldnt have to make new intercooler piping.


Evil Z31: (2008-04-07 16:41:27)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I just bought a somewhat new and modified H1C for $300. It has the 14cm turbine housing, so it should fit a lot better than the 21 or whatever huge housing they came with.

I think I'll make this my "streetable turbo". :lol:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … e15d_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … db1b_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … ed43_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … e7d7_1.jpg

Now, I have a question for your Holset guys. It has a T3 exhaust, but what kind of 4-bolt flange should I look for? 2.5" or 3"? If you've got a link, that would help.

Everyone keeps telling me, "oh, it's a standard 4-bolt flange!"

Ummm, if it was "standard", then how come I've found about 5 different variations? :-?


Evil Z31: (2008-04-14 15:42:46)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Isn't this the fitting that everyone has been looking for to thread into the block?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai … toview=sku

It's a 12mm x 1.25 to 4an for the block.

So you need that one for the block, and this one for the turbo:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai … 9919BFGERL

Then run a 4an line to both.

Unless I misread something...........maybe put that part # in the first post too.


88zxtbuildup: (2008-04-28 18:32:26)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

EAR-849092ERL

Fitting, Hose End, Swivel Seal, 90 Degree, -4 AN Hose to Male 12mm x 1.5, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $31.39

This part is actually a -6 AN hose connector part. Summit could not find a -4 AN 90 with the correct threading for the Holset.

So I went ahead and got that part Evil Z31 found and ordered another -4AN Summit hose connector for it. It'll be straight into the top of the turbo, and should clear the strut tower.


Evil Z31: (2008-04-29 00:23:40)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Both fittings I mentioned will screw directly into the turbo and the block. Then you only need to run a straight 4an line between them. Only 3 parts needed. None of that conversion stacking nonsense.

However, you're gonna have to find a way to insert an oil restrictor.


roastin300: (2008-05-13 01:13:50)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

These Holset Downpipe adaptors now available if enough people want them, PM me for more details or better yet post in the thread under Engine Mechanical called "OK, Holset Downpipe Adaptors" We need a few more people and i will make a batch of them, but will be nicer then the one in this FAQ i built.


roastin300: (2008-06-25 18:37:38)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Stainless Steel Oil feed line kits available as well. See the new thread about it. It will include:

Adaptor fitting at block

Adaptor fitting at Holset turbo

20" stainless steel braided line with -4AN fittings on it

PM me if ya want one


wheelhop: (2008-11-07 21:31:03)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

What are your goals?

The wh1c and early 8blade compressor hx35 is good for 52lb/min based on the map, dyno, and trap speed results.

The later 7blade compressor hx35 is good for 60ish lb/min based on the map and airflow logs.

The wh1e and 8blade compressor hx40 (58mm inducer) is good for 60lb/min and a better flowing turbine will allow more flow (power) per psi. This will give you a little more lag but better pump gas possibilities.

The hx40 with the 60mm compressor inducer is good for 68lb/min :twisted: based on the map and dyno results.

The hx52 is good for 87 lb/min. And will take alot of wisdom to exploit and contain :baton

. . .As for the h1c. There are 2 common versions. The 'baby' h1c with a 50mm 7blade inducer; and the 'big' h1c with a 54mm 8blade inducer. Yes, that may be a large difference in inducer diameter. But, considering the cavitation effect of a high number of blades, loosing a blade really does alot to increase flow when the compressor has over 7 blades. the wh1c flows a little more than the big h1c and the small h1c has made 411 whp maxed out on efeezi's ka24 setup. I and another 4g63 guy have already seen 40-42lb/min at 25ish psi with a conservative, lower flowing 2.0liter build (remember, you all have 2 more cylinders and 50% more volume). So I can see the big h1c flowing around 48-50 lb/min. About where a 20g or 50-trim compressor is. . . But there are no maps!!!! I need the h1c maps!!!! :[archived image: tongue.png]lease Are they gone forever? Holset won't help.


Evil Z31: (2008-11-12 00:29:51)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I just went out to measure my H1C. Strange you say there's only those two sizes you mentioned because mine has a 52mm inducer and 82mm exducer. I know mine has been modified by the previous owner, but he said that he only got the 14cm turbine housing upgrade. Strange that the compr. is an irregular size also. :-?


wheelhop: (2008-11-12 14:22:25)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Are you sure your measuring tool as accurate? The exducer for most of the pickup truck h1c turbos is 84mm not 82mm. Could your instrument be off by 2mm? The big h1c has a a 54mm/84mm wheel the Wh1c has a 56mm/84mm wheel. I've seen baby h1c turbos with a 45mm inducer.

Do you have Map width enhamcement webbing, does it look like you have anti-surge ports but there's no groove actually cut through the housing? Do you have a vband attached compressor wheel? The big h1c (54mm inducer) has these features. What is the assembly number? How many blades are in the inducer? 7 or 8.


Evil Z31: (2008-11-13 14:13:48)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Digital Caliper. It's accurate.

8 blades

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … e15d_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … db1b_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … e7d7_1.jpg

Says "H1C" right on the tag. I can get the assy. # later.


wheelhop: (2008-11-13 17:59:07)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Mine measures 54mm with my digital calipers. Holset h1c from a 1992 cummins diesel intercooled pickup. Assembly #3531456. Your's does not have the MWE webbing. This is not the Big h1c from the intercooled pickups. There is a Wh1c which has the MWE webbing and the groove all the way through the housing to make the MWE functional. I guess there are several wheels. I'd like to know which vehicle it came from. Mine flows a little less than the 8blade wh1c/hx35 (56mm inducer). Giving it 4lb/min less flow per 2mm, I say mine flows around the same as a 50-trim or about 49lb/min, since the the 8blade hx35/wh1c has a 52 lb/min compressor map. Yours probably flows about as much air as an 18g or 54-trim or 57-trim. Of course this is bench racing, but what can you do if you don't even have a compressor map [archived image: smile.png]


Kennedy: (2008-12-24 21:17:13)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

Fixed img links

roastin300 wrote: The Holset Turbocharger FAQ

By: Roastin300

This FAQ is provided to help with the installation of a Holset turbocharger from the Dodge Cummins turbo diesel trucks. While each turbocharger can be fitted, this particular install is an HX35 model turbo from the 5 speed Cummins.

Why choose a Holset turbo you say? Well, there are many good reasons. Some include their very low cost used, comparable specs to the Garrett aftermarket high performance turbos (in fact, Holset started out making outright Garrett knock-offs), they are easy to come by online used and still in good working condition, most have T3-compatible turbine housing flanges, and some have internal wastegates.

First, lets take a look at some of the different models of Holset turbochargers that can be obtained, and their specs in comparison to a Garrett turbo:

HY35 – Came on the Automatic 5.9L Dodge Cummins. Turbine housing roughly has a .55 A/R and a T3 stage 3 turbine wheel. The compressor housing is about .60 A/R and the compressor wheel flow is .46 kg/s, which converts to 60.8 lbs/min.

HX35 – Came in the 5 speed 5.9L Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel. Very similar to the HY35, has the same turbine and compressor wheels but utilizes roughly a .80 A/R turbine housing and a .70 A/R Compressor housing. Also flows 60.8 lbs/min.

HX40 – Came in the 8.3L Dodge Turbo Diesel motors. Everything on this turbo is much larger, the turbine housing is a 1.00 A/R+ and the turbine wheel is approximately a P trim in garret specs. The compressor housing is approximately a .70 A/R and the compressor wheel flows .53 kg/s, which converts to 70.1 lbs/min.

HX50/55 – Enormous, never seen one in person but the compressor wheel flows .75 kg/s which converts to 99 lb/min.

H1C – Came on the much older Dodge Cummins. Very similar to the HX35 but flows slightly less and is said to spool a little slower due to older and less efficient technology.

H1E – Comparable to the HX40 specs, but the older version just like the H1C is to the HX35.

This information I have given is not exact, however, it is composed of good approximations from my research I have done along with a margin of error for unit conversion.

Choosing Your Holset:

Selecting the “right” model from these turbos to fit on a Z31 300ZX’s VG30ET engine is fairly simple.The HY35 will support about 400RWHP, will spool very fast, nearly as fast as a stock T3. I am currently running the HX35 and it will support roughly 450RWHP, and my spool time is around 3600-3800 full 18lbs boost. This is comparable to the spool you would expect from a Garrett “stage 3” turbine and a large T4 compressor, and the same performance, but at a fraction of the cost. I used to run a HX40 in the past, but I didn’t get full 18lbs of boost until around 4300RPM, making for a very short power-band. Because of its larger sized turbine and housing, the HX40 should support 550RWHP+.

I don’t recommend the H1C or H1E because they are outdated and harder to find anyway; the HX50/55 is just stupid-huge for our 3.0 Liter V6 and would be a very poor investment (unless you plan to spool it with gobs of nitrous).

Installation:

To fit a HX35 into a Z31 300ZX, a few relatively minor modifications must be done to the turbo and oil delivery system. Let’s look at the mechanical side of it:

The compressor housing needs modification. You need to grind down the V-band outlet on the 2.5” compressor outlet. This needs to be done so a normal 2.5” silicone coupling can be slid over it and clamped. This picture kind of shows it, you will fully understand what I mean when it comes time and you have the turbo in front of you.

Some Holset models have two studs and four holes for the turbine housing inlet flange, instead of the “usual” 4 holes with 4 studs on the manifold. You can simply drill the studs out of the turbine housing with a clearance hole large enough for the studs on your manifold to clear.

Next is the wastegate actuator. The stock Holset wastegate actuator should not be used as it is designed to run a lot more boost and will probably not fit well if at all with the turbocharger mounted. Almost any internal wastegate actuator from another car can be used because they all work in the same way. I chose to use a Ford 2.3 Liter turbo actuator diaphragm. I cut the rod and welded in an adjustable end to adjust my preload on the actuator’s internal spring. It will also need a new bracket to hold the actuator itself physically to the compressor housing. I was able to cut, bend and drill the stock Ford bracket to work. As you can see the actuator rod is pretty short and I bolted it to one of the threaded holes on the turbine housing that the original unit bolted to.

The next part is much harder and requires some real fabrication skills. You need to make either a downpipe adaptor to the stock downpipe or aftermarket exhaust made to fit the stock turbo exhaust elbow’s 3-bolt flange. Another solution is to make a completely new custom downpipe. I chose to make an adaptor; here are a few pictures of it. First I made the flange to fit the turbine outlet.

Then I used the 3” mandrel bent pipe I purchased online to mate up with my 3” downpipe. I bought a 3 bolt universal 3” flange and welded it at the bottom to bolt to the downpipe. You can also see that I took the extra time to weld in a smoother transition for the wastegate opening rather than going straight into the flange and intersecting with the turbine exhaust flow. In theory this should give slightly better flow and more precise boost control.

Here are the pictures with the turbo installed:

Now as far as the oil system, the stock oil return works perfectly on the HX35. Mine is different because I have a N/A oil pan with a fitting welded on it. But I know it will work for a fact because I had this setup with a stock turbo, and when I swapped my HX35 in the oil return lined up and sealed perfectly.

The oil feed line must be swapped as the oil inlet on the Holset turbos are threaded and need a fitting. I purchased a stainless steel –4 AN line with an adaptor fitting to go from the block to the line, and bought a fitting that screwed into the holset turbo inlet and had the –4 AN fitting on the other end, presto, a great oil feed setup! The fitting size for the holset's oil inlet is 12mmx1.5, the oil feed hole from the vg30 block is 12mmx1.25

For the intake before the compressor you can go many routes from a pipe motor mount setup, a new motor mount to route big 4” piping to it, the sky is the limit. If you have a MAP sensor with a speed-density system like myself, I run a little butterfly filter right on the compressor inlet with no extra piping to deal with!

You will need to rotate the center section and compressor housing as needed to fit right in the vehicle to line up the compressor outlet, oil feed and oil return. This is called “clocking” the turbo and is fairly easy to do with it test-fitted in place.

That’s it; happy hunting for a used Holset!


nismopu: (2009-03-30 12:49:33)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I am having some clearance issues with my he351 holset, anybody know if the hy35 turbine housing will work with the he351? Right now I am going to have to get pretty creative with the downpipe if i cant find a different housing. Also would anyone know the physical outside dimensions of the hy35 or hx35 compressor housing? I need to see if its the thicker exhaust flange that is causing my compressor housing to hit the steering rack. peace.


nismopu: (2009-03-31 06:11:22)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

well it looks like I have figured out how to get around the clearance issues. I have started clearancing the stock HE351 DP to clear the steering shaft, the compressor housing now clears the power steering rack lines, and I have come up with a new mounting setup for the wastegate actuator. I have pics posted over at 88hybrid http://www.88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10586 lemme know what you guys think. peace.


88sinZ: (2009-05-06 01:35:55)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

I don't think this was covered in the thread so far. The Z31 T3 oil outlet fits nicely on the HX35, and even lines up great with the Z31T oil pan when the HX35 CHRA is clocked correctly. The only issue is a turbine clamp bolt gets right under the oil inlet flange, this is easily overcome by setting the CHRA loosely into the turbine housing and rotate it out of the way, begin threading your bolts down, then clock to your marked positions and tighten.

required gasket nissan PN 15196-P7600

[archived image: holsetclock003.jpg]

[archived image: holsetclock011.jpg]

bitch bolt below

[archived image: holsetclock004.jpg]


gardner86zx: (2009-06-17 17:50:20)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

There is not much on here about the he351cw. I am working on putting on on my z and have some info to share with anyone looking at this turbo. From what i have found over the last year of research is the he351cw looks the same as the hy35 but has a better flowing exhaust housing and a compressor wheel that is 2mm bigger than the hx35. I have seen a couple threads on a dodge diesel forum about them using these turbos as upgrades to the hx35. I am going to be using a satan manifold with this turbo because of how tight it fits in the stock location. The only problem i have run into so far is the he351cw uses a odd size v band. A 4 inch flange is to big and wont clamp to the turbo. I have heard of people grinding them down but they still have sealing problems with it. I sent my exhaust housing to a machine shop and had a mild steel flange made that clamps perfectly to the turbo and has a ridge that excepts a 4inch exhaust pipe. If anyone needs one of these i can get more. Here are some pics

on the left is the standard 4 inch flange, on the right is the holset flange

[archived image: SSPX0073.jpg]

[archived image: SSPX0070.jpg]

[archived image: SSPX0071.jpg]


nismopu: (2009-07-07 16:18:26)

Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

That turned out really nice gardner! Yeah I think there's only two other guys running these on vg's. Mine spools a little later than I would like but its ok 3500rpms seems to be where it comes on. Also, I am running a stock t3 actuator with the holset wastegate flapper and have had zero boost creep issues. Anyone looking at this turbo or any of the later designed holsets should really consider them. I can't wait to get nistune and my m30 ecu going with this setup. Another thing I would like to mention is this turbo is relatively quiet compared to the old t3 and other holset setups. I do have the silencer ring removed as well. Peace.


n1zmo: (2009-11-18 16:29:32)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

so this is the part I dont get. do holsets have two intakes?what does it mean by mount the pipe to a motor mount??about what is an equal comparison to a HT3B?


nismopu: (2009-11-18 18:11:37)

Its easier IMO to just use a turbo relocation pipe like what SATAN sells.

Roastin is talking about intake setups like what Jason has pictured on his site where the intake tube is actually used as a motor mount. If your adventurous and don't want to do a blow through MAF setup, leave the holset in the stock location, and don't want to buy a relocation pipe then you will have to route the intake this way.

I have no clue what turbo that is or what its equivalent too. My suggestion is type it into google with a search for compressor maps. Most likel a million DSM sites will come up or diesel truck forums.


n1zmo: (2009-11-19 14:49:06)

oh, so If I dont want to get a relocation pipe then I have to use the intake as a motor mount because otherwise the stock one gets in the way? I got the turbo. That sob is huge. But I read a forum where a ka-t guy had it on his 240sx and got 9psi at 4200. but we should get the equivalent at probably about 3500-3700 right? I might go with a hx35 trubine side eventually if the lag is too bad.


n1zmo: (2009-11-19 15:28:20)

H1C/WH1C:

In 1994, there was the Wh1c which has pretty much the identical compressor as the hx35 but with a Vband compressor cover. The turbine wheel is the same. It will bolt into the BEP bolton hx35 turbine housing. It has 4 bolts at the housing instead of 6. So you will need to buy 2 more bolts and use 6 washers cut to make a flat side. Honestly, I just used bolts that were cut a little short and the bolt head was wide enough to pull the chra to the turbine housing. No sealing issues. Since the Wh1c is for all practical purposes an 8blade hx35 the spool and flow is the same too.

I have the big h1c. It comes on the INTERCOOLED 1991-1993 cummins pickups. It has the webbing for MWE but no groove cut like the hx35/wh1c has. This turbo I term the big h1c because it has a 54mm compressor inducer and same exducer than the 8blade hx35/Wh1c. The other h1c is the small h1c found on the NON-intercooled cummins pickups. This has a 50mm inducer but only 7blades and has no webbing for MWE. Less blades helps flow, but so does a larger inducer diameter. The most whp ever recorded on a gas 4cylinder with the small h1c was done on a KA24 nissan: 411whp. Since the big h1c has a 4mm larger inducer and the same turbine wheel as the hx35, it is safe to say that it flows enough for between 411whp and 500whp. The diesel sources state that it flows SLIGHTLY less than the early hx35. So 4lb/min less than the 8blade hx35 puts the flow of the big h1c at 48-49lb/min right where a 50-trim or 20g is. The small bep housing is all that's needed to get the most from the compressor and the spool speed is 20+psi by 3500rpms.I got this off another forum, I know there is not much on here about the h1c so…


nismopu: (2009-11-19 15:42:05)

Good info indeed! Makes me wonder about some of the wh1's I passed up in the J-yards.


n1zmo: (2009-11-19 16:57:50)

i have one, just stole it from a dude yesterday for 100 bucks


nismopu: (2009-11-19 18:00:42)

Well I would look through all the different setups people have ran and figure out which is best for you. I run the stock location with my Holset and a blow through setup. It was easy for me since the engine was out.


n1zmo: (2009-11-19 18:53:15)

I want to do blow through, what maf did you use?and I am pulling the motor out anyway because I gotta change my pressure plate/clutch. I am definately considering of going topmount because of its ease of access and the high rate this would allow oil to return with. I dont think my turbo is internally wastegated though. is there any way to tell without taking it apart?


nismopu: (2009-11-19 20:19:14)

Until you get some sort of tuning capability I would stick with the stock MAF for now on a blow through setup. A number of guys on this board including myself run it this way. Don't bother with the internal gate setups on Holsets, it will just linearly rise with rpm(boost creep). It will rise until you run out of fuel and your engine gives up.

So, stick with the relocation idea and external gate.


n1zmo: (2009-11-19 20:42:30)

yea somebody posted it on here that they used their stock wastegate actuator to control the holsets internal wg. but I dont see a place for mine so it must be external.


Blown-N-Boosted: (2009-11-19 20:49:54)

Dpes the ID plate read hx35 or hx35w?


n1zmo: (2009-11-19 21:06:56)

h1c, i didnt check for a w, i will when i get home


n1zmo: (2009-11-20 16:03:02)

nope it just says H1c. and there is no internal wastegate. which means I have to research how exactly to hook up an external wastegate.


nismopu: (2009-11-21 02:09:03)

when you get a relocation pipe make sure it has the provisions for an external gate.

Hey gardner, I found this place called www.vulcanperformance.com and they carry the correct size flange and v-band. Their prices arent to bad and their local to me; check em out for your custom holset needs! peace.


Matt89: (2009-12-11 04:01:13)

I haven't checked this thread in a while. I didnt know anyone else on here was using a vgt on their z31. Nismopu, what are you using to control the vgt vanes? I will be removing the stock electronics and using a waste actuator to control mine. Have you seen this site yet? lots of good vgt info. http://www.turbotalk.org/bb/index.php

I got a BRAND NEW he351ve for the cost of shipping. I have a good friend who works for a metal yard in dallas. The dodge dealership dropped off a load of scrap metal along with the he351 still wrapped in plastic. 8)


gardner86zx: (2009-12-11 06:26:35)

Nismopu's turbo is an he351cw just like mine. It looks like the hy35. It is not the ve version like yours.


nismopu: (2009-12-12 06:22:37)

I think Machz on here and Ptowns both have one but I don't know how their progress has been going. I would like to try one of these though because from some youtube vids it looks like people are making headway on controlling these things.

these are the guys to call i think [http://[video=youtube_share;ntGDWAtN9jM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntGDWAtN9jM&NR=1[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]]

One more thing I noticed that even the cummins boys have a problem with is boost spiking. So, you still need to run an external gate with this sucker IMO.


Matt89: (2009-12-12 08:23:14)

The easiest way to control the vgt is with a wastegate actuator. At low boost the vgt vanes stay closed to around .55 AR. As soon as boost reaches that of the wastegate spring the vgt opens and increases the AR to somewhere right under 2.00. Yes of course you have to run an external wastegate. VGT has nothing to do with regular wastegate function.


nismopu: (2009-12-12 17:41:07)

Actually it does because the garret VNT's don't use a wastegate flapper. Check out some of the turbo diesel forums for like mercedes and vw's. One vw diesel site I found had a crazy amount of info on how to build your own VNT controller to replace the CAN bus style one on the he351ve. The guy was saying it would cost 30 bucks in materials but it looked quite complicated to build. He would build one he said for 300bucks.

I agree the easiest way to control it would be with a wastegate actuator or even a dual actuator setup might be cool for different load/driving situations.


Matt89: (2009-12-12 19:38:31)

By wastegate function i mean diversion of exhaust gas around the turbo, which the vgt's do not do. They control boost by lowering the aspect ratio of the hotside. This is fine for a diesel but on most gasoline motors the lowest boost people can get them to hold on the he351ve by just closing the vanes was around 25psi. On most gasoline motors, the vgt works best when used be to gain faster spool instead of boost control. This makes it necessary to add an external gate.


K_Scheeringa: (2009-12-16 16:38:20)

I'm not sure if anybody has posted this as of yet, but i cam across it doing some searching…

http://www.siipicossu.com/manuaaleja…2035%2040W.pdf

http://www.myholsetturbo.com/index.html

And a very similar write up as at the beginning of this thread, but also including compressor maps..

http://www.d-series.org/forums/force…-h1e-wh1e.html


MachZ: (2010-03-16 19:09:57)

I contacted Fleece. They are making a complete standalone controller using analog inputs and it will be out soon. I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for that as that will likely be the best way to control the Holset VGT.


Beezee: (2010-03-24 21:18:09)

I found this very interesting and helpful.

Guide to Dodge Cummins Holset Turbochargers


Kas-Z: (2010-03-25 18:49:10)

Just making sure anyone that reads this knows that there is a thread on the group buys page for a new run of Roastin's custom downpipes. Check it out if you are interested.


Kas-Z: (2010-04-05 16:57:43)

To anyone thinking about doing this build:

We have a group buy that is just about done for the Roastin downpipe. Only need one more before we have them made. Anyone interested should jump on the opportunity!


roastin300: (2010-04-17 00:10:04)

I found a resource with some maps and measurements of wheels and housings. And even shows a watercooled HX35! 8) But its a nice resource, figured i would add it to the thread.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb…&articleid=122

I have not done much research on the HE351 until recently. Besides the tiny turbine housing, it looks as if the compressor wheel is the biggest of them all between the HX35, HY35, HE341/351, WH1C. I forget if anyone has really pushed one to its limits or not? Anyone out there running a HE351 on a Z31?


gardner86zx: (2010-04-17 00:53:23)

i Should have mine going next weekend.


nismopu: (2010-04-17 01:13:42)

I have gone through a couple engines but I have one running, lol


gardner86zx: (2010-05-03 15:45:09)

I now have my z31 running with the he351cw. Right now i am only running 4 psi but the whistle from it is a lot louder than the stock t3 at 10psi.


nismopu: (2010-05-03 16:53:41)

Yeah, its pretty noisy once spooled. When can we get some pics and vids of your car man?


gardner86zx: (2010-05-03 17:48:48)

soon. I am still sorting out some issues with the new setup.


vince: (2010-05-10 19:41:54)

i found out today cant remember where but that holset made a hx35g that is water cooled. Not sure if anyone new about it but they seem to be at a good price via ebay- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HX35G-35 … ccessories


MachZ: (2010-05-10 20:05:36)

That looks like a Chinese knock off. Hard to tell from the pictures but I don't see any Holset tags on it and the auction doesn't even say its a genuine Holset. I wouldn't buy that one without confirmation that its a true Holset… but I highly doubt it is.


Kas-Z: (2010-05-12 03:17:11)

just a reminder to everyone that we still have a group buy for the downpipes going on… need 2 more to get them made! PM me, respond on this thread, or go to the group buy page and jump on the thread there! Come on guys!!!


roastin300: (2010-07-19 01:49:07)

Did some research on the HE351VE VGT Turbo. Is there ANYONE who has run one? They seem like a sweet idea and im thinking about trying one ith a custom manifold to move it up front since its so dam big! I would control it with a mechanical wastegate actuator and make it adjustable for more preload, and probably build an adjuster to limit the minimum closure size so that its not too restrictive while cruising around town, and a adjuster on the other end to limit the maximum opening size so that i can acheive high boost levels wthout boost falling off when it opens to a huge 22cm^2 size turbine housing. Check this site out, these turbos are awesome and a few people have fabbed them up and controlled the VGT with wastegate actuators. One guy on there ran a 123mph trap on like 9lbs on a 3.8 liter swapped fiero, and that was before the VGT was controlled. He said he had to tune the VGT to operate right because it would spool too fast if he didnt adjust it larger to begin with.

http://www.turbotalk.org/bb/viewforu…ab62ddd8c1f59f

Im positive these turbos wont fit in stock location. 1) They are HUGE 2) I read somewhere they are not a T3 or T4 flange but its own flange. I will ask again, has ANYONE had some experience with these turbo's? Whether its a Z31 or any car… Keep the contribution to the thread coming!


hypcodiiihop: (2010-07-19 01:59:57)

I made a thread about these back like a year or 2 ago, there was some good info posted in there. It should come up in a search for holset VGT

I was really thinking about making one work on my car but ditched the idea since im not that concerned with spool time.


roastin300: (2010-10-01 06:36:40)

Check out the HX52, huge turbo but many people run them with good results, look at dynos online. I am HIGHLY considering this with a quick spool valve instead of a precision 6262…


roastin300: (2010-10-02 23:27:36)

Measurements of HX40 wheels below.

Compressor:

Inducer - 59.84mm

Exducer - 81.76mm

Turbine:

Inducer - 76mm

Exducer - 64.14mm

Note this is the 8 blade compressor wheel. There is a 6, 7, and 8 Blade compressor wheel in the HX40 platforms. The 6 blade flows the most, then 7 blade, then 8 blade flowing the least. I have compressor maps for all 3. Just need to find a place to host them so I can show you guys


nismopu: (2010-10-03 01:58:29)

What size is the compressor housing on the 40? I've been thinking of ditching my he 351 for one. This ones compressor contacts my lines on the steering rack and that's with the engine lifted a lil higher than stock.


nismopu: (2010-10-04 17:15:12)

No idea?


roastin300: (2010-10-08 05:17:03)

Patience young grasshopper. I dont know the size. I believe its a standard size of around .70 A/R for the compressor housing on the HX40. Housing size does not mean much. The difference between a .60 and .70 A/R is negligable, however, the compressor wheel makes a much bigger difference.

Oh and to answer your question…NO you cannot swap a HE351 compressor housing onto a HX35. They do not just bolt on, they are different…

A. Probably attach differently

B. Different size compressor housing backplate

C. Different size compressor wheel inducer

D. Different size compressor wheel exducer

It will not swap


nismopu: (2010-10-08 13:15:08)

Yeah, I wasn't wanting to swap compressor housings. I just wanted to know how big the hx40 physically was compared to my HE because I know physically that the HE is bigger than your hx. So, if they made the hx40 and HE compressor size the same when I go to a 40 I wont have to modify too much more. Thats all, lol! I know they wont swap that much research I have done, I am pretty much stuck with the wheels and housings that come on my turbo.


DMANN: (2010-10-12 21:20:38)

Far as the compressor housing there is not much size difference between the 35 and 40 the turbine is a bit larger. If I can find some time I'll get the outside dimensions. I'm experimenting between the 35, 35/40, and the 40…the 50 is seized and it is silly to use for my power goals.


project84zx: (2010-12-06 16:48:26)

Dunno if anyone has posted this yet but here is a picture of just how big an HX55 is....Yeah pretty monstrous…I overheard a guy talking about putting one on his Common Rail Cummins and the specs are just stupid. "T6 footprint, 25cm^2 exhaust housing. 65mm inducer and 100mm exducer on the compressor" I have hard of people running this turbo on DSM's but the supporting mods required would just be mind boggling.


akurtzer57: (2010-12-07 07:09:24)

Anyone know specs on the small H1C

Ive had a few hx55s. Im currently looking for a hx52 or 55 for compound setup.


Careless: (2011-02-17 10:04:13)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Careless: (2011-02-17 10:19:18)

Does anyone know if the HE351 or HE341 compressor housing fits the HX35W compressor backplate and wheel?

This would make routing piping for me a ton easier.


gardner86zx: (2011-02-17 15:16:24)

No it does not. I have an he351cw and the compressor wheel is bigger than an hx35


solost: (2011-02-17 17:45:56)

My Hx35 came with a v-band outlet but it's 2.5". Does anyone know where the 3" v-band adapters are sold? Apparently they used to be more common before. I was also thinking of opening up the current adapter/flange and have a 3" tube welded to it but I was told steel can't be welded to iron? Or that it was difficult to do?


nismopu: (2011-02-17 19:15:35)

They make rod for dissimalr metals, I had to cut a notch through my iron DP for my steering shaft to clear. I brazed in a piece of chromoly steel pipe and never had a problem with it.


Careless: (2011-02-17 19:23:38)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Do you know if the later HY35 compressor housings with the 90* outlet fits? The wheels are the same size, no?


nismopu: (2011-02-17 20:46:11)

The compressor wheel on the he351 is the size of the hx40......


Careless: (2011-02-17 21:28:30)

yeah i'm axxin' boot the HY35 now. some of the came with the 90* housing. same wheel size as the HX35…

just peeped my engine bay… looks like if I can get a 90* outlet housing, the short-pipe intercooler setup will be as close to how I invisioned it without moving to a forward-mounted turbo (will do later).

total piping would be about 48 inches. 1.5 feet on the pre-cooled side, and 2.5 feet after the intercooler.

Once I get the front facing plenum, total piping will be 2.5 feet or less.


88sinZ: (2011-02-18 02:51:27)

[quote]Careless wrote:

{{#if:gardner86zx|gardner86zx wrote:|Quote:}}

No it does not. I have an he351cw and the compressor wheel is bigger than an hx35

Do you know if the later HY35 compressor housings with the 90* outlet fits? The wheels are the same size, no?

see HERE, if thats the same style.. than the answer is yes. It even had a nice metric port to put a boost controller [archived image: smile.png]

Not a HY but an HX


Careless: (2011-02-18 05:40:05)

I was thinking of buying that piece, but it puts the pipe too far up for me. I want to take the HX35… and bolt on this HY35 housing here, which has the same wheel size:

[attachment=0[archived image: tongue.png]xtyfw26]Click image for larger versionName14BvsHolset.jpgViews28391Size38.jpg[/attachment[archived image: tongue.png]xtyfw26]

I would eventually grind away the wastegate boss and polish the shit.

I don't care if the compressor housing is a little worse in sizing, it will make my install much cleaner and I'm jsut trying to make it look good while replacing my current turbo with one that actually makes boost… I likes da cleanstuffs moar.


Careless: (2011-02-18 23:01:40)

looks like the HY35 backing plate and the compressor cover need to both be swapped, so the wheel needs removed and then reinstalled.

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm…


Careless: (2011-02-23 11:53:57)

Been reading that the HE341, 351, and 431 are supposed to have Cast Titanium compressor wheels.

just thought I'd put it here.


Matt89: (2011-02-24 04:22:40)

HE351VE

[archived image: shoppics008.jpg]

[archived image: shoppics001.jpg]

[archived image: shoppics002.jpg]

[archived image: shoppics007.jpg]

[archived image: shoppics009.jpg]


Careless: (2011-02-24 04:35:32)

that's what I just bought (entire cold side).

how do you think it will fare?

it's essentially a hx40 hybrid. I'm on the fence about actually modifying the turbo i have now… not sure if HX40/351 will be too big for my goals. (350 - 400whp)


DeleriousZ: (2011-02-24 04:59:26)

Careless, be sure to take the turbo to someone to get it rebalanced with the new wheel. The whole rotating assembly (turbine wheel/shaft, thrust collar and wheel etc) is balanced together and will hurt performance/reliability if you just slap a new wheel on your existing shaft.


Careless: (2011-02-24 05:22:41)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

already called Cherry Turbo.

The best in Ontario. Learned my lesson after the last turbo rebuilder. Just too many issues with the stock turbo to try and find that guy again.

fanks brah.

honestly not too sure if i should hold out and just put the hx35w on without the larger compressor cover/wheel for now.


Careless: (2011-02-24 05:28:48)

this belongs in this thread: HE351VE cold side parts.


solost: (2011-02-27 01:05:35)

Just thought I'd share.

My Hx35 came with an odd sized v-band flange outlet.Went this route because it was the cheapest. If the 3" outlet plates ever pop up again on ebay at a reasonable price, then I'll upgrade. Not sure how much of a difference there is though. So this is the $20 3" v-band kit solution that has been posted on other forums. I grinded down the original flange just a bit, put the 3" v-band flange over it until it was starting to go in, and then smacked it down with a rubber mallet for a tight fit.


Careless: (2011-03-01 03:04:11)

just a good comparison of an 300zx 84T turbo and an HX35W

comparison shots of the HE351 to come:


Careless: (2011-03-03 10:38:25)

NEW SHIT! (long read, but it contains most info. pics to come if it happens soon)

ok so I took the compressor cover off the HX35W, and i took the He351ve comp cover out of the box it came to me in.

Here is what I noticed.

1) HX35W has a CHRA integral backplate- meaning the backplate does not "bolt on", it is rather machined into the CHRA.

2) the HE351 series has a backplate that is held on with 3 screws. The HE351 also has the same part number as the HX40 wheel in most applications- and all wheel sizes are the same (so that means I can upgrade to an HX40 PRO billet wheel later). So that means the wheel radius, inducer/exducer are the same as the HE351- this is good news!

3) There are those who put HX40 wheels on HX35's. It requires a simple widening of the wheel cavity that the comp wheel floats within that is ground into the backplate. Solution for HX40 ppl is to have the HX35 wheel cavity machined to 1mm or so over the diam of the HX40 wheel. The underside wheel tulip shape is roughly the same and requires little to no modification to the HX35 CHRA/"Backplate" area. So widening is all that's required.

here is a picture of what's involved.

This is the HX35 wheel in a machined cavity to accept the HX40 wheel. You can see the area around the HX35 wheel that is to be machined- and has been on this photo.

[archived image: kp2z0.jpg]

4) The integral CHRA backplate on the HX35 is THICK. thick enough that the cover has a lip around the outside of the CHRA that is where the HX35 cover/housing seals. The HE351's seal is made up of an o-ring that sits alongside a removable backplate (i.e. - not ground into the CHRA, it floats above).

so what does one do with all these parts?

Well lets look at some things mentioned.

HX35 has an integral backplate with no step, but it's very thick.

HE351 has a removable backplate that CREATES a step for an o-ring to sit alongside, and the HE351 cover slides over that and is clamped around the perimeter using a v-band type R.G.Ray clamp from factory.

HX40 wheels fit HX35 CHRA with machining of the wheel step. No tulip/wheel backside machining involved.

Here's where it gets interesting (and potentially in my favor).

The CHRA integral backplate of the HX35W has a step around the perimeter as mentioned prior, and it is what the HX35W seals against. It is the EXACT SAME DIAMETER as the v-band lip on the HE351 cover. Making sense so far?

The extra material that goes beyond this step need be machined off the housing. Easy as there's no obstruction for the machine to have to overcome when machining that. It just needs to be ground off so you no longer have a "step" for the HX35W housing c-clip to brace the HX35W housing against.

So now I have an HX35W with a VERY thick backplate, as the step is now removed. And now the HE351 vband clamp slips over this, and it's the same diameter as the HE351 vband lip. But now the cover sits way too far above the HX40 wheel in the HE351 housing. So this becomes an issue, both with centering the HE351 cover and bolting it on, as the clamp cannot grip to this, and it has no where to seal.

Easy again. measure the backplate thickness and the HX40 wheel height. Measure the HE351 wheel gap and bring it back into spec. in other words, Machine the THICK lip that is left over from cutting off the old lip back into spec by machining a new step on the perimeter of the HX35W integral backplate, and make it the same height as the HE351 backplate, leaving enough clearance for the HE351 o-ring to seal against.

slide that over the wheel, check the clearance, and slide the v-band over the newly created harmony of v-band lippage… Bolt down with the RG Ray clamp.

Done.

I am going to send off the turbo to be rebuilt as it looks like there was some oil leaking into the compressor housing of the HX35W… i am going to ask Herman @ Cherry Turbo to take a look at what I'm illustrating and ask him if it's something he can do (which I'm sure he can).

If possible, I will have- as someone pointed out… the WHOLE SET turbo… an HX35/40/351 hybrid.

If hermans says it's too much work or the cost is sky-high (he's making 3 cuts, big deal), then I will run the HX35W housing and cry that my setup is not as clean as I wanted it to be- because I wanted to eventually unbolt the HE351 housing (which would be fucking eassssssssy!) and give it to someone to clean up and polish.


DMANN: (2011-03-03 12:53:51)

You could also just buy the HX40 housing for $125.00 and not worry about machining?


Careless: (2011-03-03 13:50:59)

It's the 90 degree bend that I want. And the unit is coming apart anyways to get rebuilt.

I know like 99% of you guys are calling me crazy for doing it this way (or stupid)…

but what have I done that was within the norm anyways?

VG33 long block from a quest, I was called stupid because I didn't use the Z31 crank… ? it worked.

V-mount setup was called a fad… ? seems to have worked (need the thicker version of my current rad- bolts in the same)…

Clean, short, and shiney pipe routing for the turbo which was the basis of the v-mount setup… ? i will make it work.

Come on guys, this may be unnecessary modifications to make this sort of power- or unnecessary money spent… but this is hot-rodding and this is fabrication. Let's not frown upon it. Z31's need this kind of unnecessary love. That's what makes people look at a Z31 and say "really clean setup. I like that".

Who cares if it's not practical or can be done cheaper? How many people have stuffed V8's in their datsun and don't drag or auto-cross?

Anyways… I will provide pics and diagrams for anyone who wants to do the "WHOLE SET" (courtesy: MrFishHat) turbo since I will be sending detailed measurements and pictures to Herman @ Cherry Turbo. He has all incarnations of these turbos and has machined some pretty good stuff and does it all in house from what I've heard. Apparently he's the best in Ontario- probably the entire east side of the country.

Put things into perspective here. Essentially he is making 3 cuts.

1) one for the wheel cavity

2) one to hack off the current seal step for the inside of the hx35w cover

3) one to re-step the backplate to accept the v-band and reseal the he351 cover.

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Just to add one more point. If I do this upgrade.

I sell my HX35W cover and 7 blade assembly to a local board member for a good price to cover machining, and that makes it worth it to me.

If I don't go this route, I sell the HE351 to another board member who told me he might need it.

So really, not a lose-lose by any means.


Careless: (2011-03-12 08:00:59)

So… I'm looking at my HX35… and I realize… I have a billet compressor wheel- which came on some HX40's, and is very rare for an HX35.

It seems to have these grooves on the wheel, whereas my HE351 does not.

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Careless: (2011-03-15 10:19:46)

This is what's happening.

None of this "so much work for nothing" bullshit.

Save it for someone who doesn't care about modding shit to make it fit how they want it, and not how everyone else has done it.

just putting this info here so you guys know what I am doing / did / am having done.

Here's a pictoral of the dimensions I took. All roughly done using a tape measure and one hand.

[archived image: ClmR4.jpg]

[archived image: GQU9j.jpg]

[archived image: ng3j7.jpg]

[archived image: vtOxG.jpg]

[archived image: miT9v.jpg]

Here's a pictoral of the 3 SIMPLE MACHINING OPERATIONS that need to be done to have this work. It's really nothing crazy.

[archived image: 0H9fA.jpg]

[archived image: tRP1a.jpg]

[archived image: IuzPg.jpg]

using this housing on the turbo I have will give me twin-scroll capability with the option of reducing my TOTAL INTERCOOLER PIPING to 2.5 feet or less, MAF and BOV included- when I upgrade my manifolds (both intake, and exhaust).


The Real Zed: (2011-03-15 10:28:50)

This is a very good informative post! :idea:


Careless: (2011-03-15 19:32:43)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

shipping it out this weekend. pics upon return.


Careless: (2011-03-25 04:07:31)

Long post warning (in case you're scroll handicapped).

Didn't bother shipping the turbo. I drove 250km today to meet with Herman @ Cherry Turbo. Have to say he is one of the coolest and most honest people in any sort of engine/mechanical field that I've had the pleasure of meeting. His shop is a small operation but he does big things for big name companies from what I'm told.

A little background, he's been around since 1992, and he has rebuilt over 2800+ turbos, and has only had 9 fail. That is a 0.321% failure rate on his work. Those include precision turbos that he got brand new that had the thrust clearances setup incorrectly or had fluttering and boost issues out of the box. He is a fan of holset turbos and is looking for cores- so contact me if you have something he can use.

As for the turbo, he says 10 hours of @ a reasonable rate, puts this entire turbo at the price of what a precision, comp, or a turbonetics turbo might cost used. However, he will be porting the wastegate flapper, radiusing the gasket surface on the twin entry T3 flange to remove the reversion dam on the gasket mating surface, rebuilding the internals, balancing every component individually using a harmonic balancing machine- not a regular VSR machine that is commonly used, and possibly drilling a through the scroll dam to make both scrolls vent, as he said once the turbo is spooled the twin scroll makes little difference as it has to bypass the wheel to relieve itself anyways. This would let the wastegate do its job as done on a gasoline engine application (not a "boost control" gate as it's used on diesel engines it comes on).

However, through some bargaining- I've managed to make this turbo a reality for "free" so to speak [archived image: smile.png]

Herman was keen to work on the turbo and said "I want to build this for you, because I think it would be an awesome combination and something that I've not seen done before"

Also, discussing my intercooler piping with Herman he was amazed at the fact that I could have the entire turbo intercooled setup with a total of less than 2 feet of piping when I relocate the turbo, using either a satan manifold or my own in the future. He said with this turbo and with my super short intercooler piping and large intercooler, I should have extremely quick throttle response, even off boost if the engine management system is of a certain type… MAP or MAF, but we didn't get into that.

Should be done in 1 week, but i told him 2 weeks is ok by me so he can do whatever else he has laying around.

All in all, I'm glad I got to meet him and discuss this hybrid HX351W.


slammedfc: (2011-03-25 09:04:29)

I'm sure i'm going to feel like a dumbass asking this but before i even knew about z31 performance or even knew what a vg30et was, holsets have always been my turbo of choice when it comes to cheap, reliable power.

Well i got a vg, then i got an hx35 (external, v band downpipe) as a core but it has ZERO damage or shaft play and only cost me a bank breaking $268 shipped. mint turbo, ready to go. Sweet.

Anyway i'm having a hard time choosing a wastegate. Some of you guys are running the stock flapper on the "w" models, slightly ported and with a different actuator diaphram and whatnot. I was wondering if i went with a single tial 38mm if i'd run into creep or if it would be all the wastegate i'd ever need with my hx35?

Thanks guys. If my post is stupid or doesn't belong here, feel free to inform me and take appropriate action.


Careless: (2011-03-25 14:02:04)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

just go with a 44 or 50mm to be sure that the valve size won't be a hindrance at all.


gardner86zx: (2011-03-25 17:13:59)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I run a 40mm on mine and was able to control boost down to 4psi with no creep at all


slammedfc: (2011-03-26 05:51:33)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I was wanting to run low boost at 7 pounds until i can get my hands on a stronger gearbox. They seem to lay down the fire just fine at that pressure.

[http://[video=youtube_share;iXI-vFI-E3U http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXI-vFI-E3U&feature=related[/video]] [archived image: yt_logo_rgb_light.png]

… re=related]

Careless: (2011-05-13 01:07:16)



Chrisw_2003: (2011-05-13 01:25:27)

thats pretty sick man


Careless: (2011-05-13 08:54:49)

[archived image: smile.png]

he forgot to widen the internal WG hole, so I'm going to call him tomorrow and ask him what's the best way I can do that.

Or I could ship it back to him and get him to do it… we'll see.


Rustspecs13: (2011-05-17 00:30:57)

Nice work careless! Not many people mix up turbo parts like that!

I'm considering using my HX30 on my VG. I bought it to use on my RB20, but I sold that and now am either going to sell it or put it on one of my cars (the other being a KA S13).

I've been trying to find the compressor size of a stock Z31 t3, but I can't find it.

I know my rb20 is a 42mm inducer and 59mm exducer, with a 42mm/50mm exhaust wheel.

The holset is 44mm inducer, and a 72mm exducer. I didn't measure the exhaust wheel, and I have found various maps saying it can do 30-40lb/min but I'm not exactly sure.

My reasoning is the holset will far out spool the stock turbo, and I have 450cc rx7 injectors that it wont max out. And I have it, and all I need is nistune to put it together. My only issue is if it spools too fast and surges which can of course damage turbo's and engines.

My real goal is to get a VGT holset and make an equal length exhaust manifold. I'm not sure a VGT will fit between the frame and stock exhaust manifold they are quite large lol.

Thoughts any one? Oh and as for my HP goal? engine destroying rofl. I want 400-500whp and I don't care if I blow a few engines in the process, there's always more at picknpull for $150ish. :lol:

~Alex


Careless: (2011-05-17 01:46:33)

i have hx35 bits here that may fit on your hx30 chra.

they are reserved for someone else at the moment but if that falls through I can send them to you for what i paid for my he351 parts (100 bux).

you need to do your research on whether it will work or not though.

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

SATAN: (2011-10-29 21:35:20)

Figured I would post this even though it's a year old tomorrow.

jusmx141 on dsmtuners.com

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Careless: (2011-10-30 04:26:23)

any mention of turbine housing? dsm guys are saying the limiting factor are a collection of things with holset turbos.

apparently the hx35 shafts are larger than the hx40 shafts on the turbine… but the wheel is larger on the hx40 and will allow the turbo to flow better at high pressure… but the shafts have a habit of snapping (as some people have reported, especially high pressure diesel setups)- so hx35 ends up being the better bet… However, I've seen some cumminsdiesel forum posts showing the shafts as being the exact same diam.

the hx35 6 or 7 blade can flow nearly 60lb/min, so he must be maxing that turbo out at 33psi making 63lb/min.

the super40 wheel flows roughly 70lb/min, but is limited by the turbine housing and wheel used to make the 35 hybrid. so anyone looking for that type of flow should run a 16cm2 turbine housing and a clipped holset turbine wheel, or just move up to a 40 altogether.

nice post, either way… what do you think of the results, SATAN? in comparison to other 60mm turbos, specifically.


SATAN: (2011-11-01 03:33:01)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Are you kidding? Holsets are fairly old school, yet they made a 60mm capable of making over 600whp a while ago. That's phenomenal!


Black 89Turbo: (2011-11-01 04:19:06)

Ugh..i know 2 cars with 35's that went faster..but thats beside the point.The potential holsets bring is amazing for there time period. Its hard to beat the quality for the price.


Careless: (2011-11-01 04:28:54)

[quote]SATAN wrote:

{{#if:Careless|Careless wrote:|Quote:}}

what do you think of the results, SATAN? in comparison to other 60mm turbos, specifically.

Are you kidding? Holsets are fairly old school, yet they made a 60mm capable of making over 600whp a while ago. That's phenomenal!

i shall never ask you a legit question again. :-(

so the turbo I have should be capable of more power at slightly less boost, and should be able to take advantage of the twin scroll housing as well as the improved MWE compressor housing… :-D if I can flow 45-50 lb/min at 20-25psi, I'll be happy.


SATAN: (2011-11-01 04:46:54)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Well, again, that was a year ago that was posted on DSMtuners. I'm sure a lot has happened since then. I was just searching google and that's what I found, so… yeah.


Careless: (2011-11-01 04:58:23)

Batmowheel, available for he351 and hx40!

http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/ … aishe.html


DMANN: (2011-11-01 20:06:38)

Remember, that there is ALOT of different sized hx35, and Hx 40's out there, and a lot of them did not come on cars and trucks!


SATAN: (2011-11-02 17:46:30)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I'm glad that the introduction of China turbo chargers (that appear to be doing the same job of the old turbo chargers), has come about. This is now FORCING American companies to get off of their asses to actually start to improve their designs and making better products.


Careless: (2011-12-25 09:13:31)

For holset guys looking for a smaller turbine housing than what's available (12cm is .89 A/R), you can go this route, which is close to the BEP .70 housing which does not share a T3 flange that we utilize on our OEM manifolds:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX35-Tur … 696wt_1396


Careless: (2011-12-25 09:33:49)

Chevy ran a holset in indy. Also one of the most powerful indy engines, to boot.

[archived image: 3uGnI.png]


nismopu: (2011-12-25 09:45:33)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

I just picked up an hx40 for cheaps, I may have to order this!


Careless: (2011-12-25 09:48:17)

imho, it's not worth the extra money considering the idea of holsets is to get them cheap. I would only do so if it needed a rebuild!

EDIT: woops, though you quoted the batmowheel. Nevermind. Def worth!


nismopu: (2011-12-28 14:24:51)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-s … -pics.html Probably been posted here and it seems the guy has dropped the ball on the project but its a neat physical comparo.


cdiver666: (2011-12-30 04:30:38)

Bought a Holset recently, and received it today. Thought I'd show a comparison picture since the one earlier in this thread no longer exists:

It is a HX35W.


Careless: (2012-01-02 09:31:56)

This car is in Ontario somewhere.

[youtube:22q2yx13]y_ImDsveHpE[/youtube:22q2yx13]

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Aside from the HX40s larger turbine, and the obvious difference in RB25 vs. VG33, My engine is equally modified, or will be. So it could be a good comparison once I put the 635cc's on there.

I'd say 400whp-450whp from the Careless Holset hybrid doohicky at 20 psi is not going to be hard to come by.


Careless: (2012-01-03 12:55:58)

Talked with Tim @ Tim's Turbos:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX35-Tur … 696wt_1396

He has given me the following information:

Stock Holset 12cm^2 is close to .78 - .80 A/R

HE351 has an HX40 comp wheel and a turbine wheel that is smaller than an HX35 wheel and in a smaller 9cm^2 housing. Essentially an HX40/35 hybrid, but smaller on the hotside.

Seems like a knowledgeable fellow, and perhaps anyone looking for Holset turbos or upgrades can msg him for some info/stock.


Augustus Maximus: (2012-01-18 17:37:54)

This might be redundant but here are some repair manuals on PDF

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/turbos/ … =HX#holset


Careless: (2012-01-18 18:26:40)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

these PDF's can also be opened in illustrator to "use" the vector images of the turbos and components too :-)


88sinZ: (2012-01-20 01:02:55)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Nice find!

lecture

Careless: (2012-03-03 11:19:38)

Holset HX52 in a boat… on a what?!

[youtube:2wguw01o]p1LCQhqobM0[/youtube:2wguw01o]

bawwwwwse 8)


shromy: (2012-03-04 02:58:15)

[youtube:2gyji89v]k8F3UE9qFsg[/youtube:2gyji89v]


shromy: (2012-03-04 02:59:43)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Rb swap on a boat say whaaaaaaa


Careless: (2012-03-04 08:17:26)

Started the car today. RedDemon was my witness… this hx351w hybrid turbo thing makes 6 psi in neutral :-/

not sure if that's a good thing.

car pulls 21 inches on cold start and 18in on 800rpm idle.

revving/jabbing the throttle in neutral to 3500 rpm brings the boost to 4 to 6psi under no load.


shromy: (2012-03-04 08:24:59)

gi t er done


Careless: (2012-03-04 08:37:33)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

holset has been done for a while.


shromy: (2012-03-04 08:39:33)

I knows? Why yes I do.


trivialxhatred: (2012-04-05 06:13:53)

I was just wondering if I'd need nistune and injectors to run a hy35 sorry if this subject has been beaten to death I've read this thread a few times over and probably misread or over looked it


Careless: (2012-04-05 07:03:28)

would be your best bet.

i can tell i'm running out of fuel or my fuel pump is dying, because at 3000rpm i hit about 10psi and the car starts to sputter and backfire. either it's spark blowout from weak ignition/high resistance, or i'm running out of fuel.

builds boost pretty fast, considering.

i would have minimum:

- adjustable 1:1 fuel pressure regulator

- upgrade fuel injectors and rails if required.

- nistune

- wideband 02

- high flow fuel pump


trivialxhatred: (2012-04-05 07:12:52)

Thnx for the info cuz my stock t3 blew an I'm just trying to find a Turbo that will run with stock components until I wanna turn up the boost and I'd rather have my z


Careless: (2012-04-05 07:32:45)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

post in the WTB section. there are people who have conjured up some hybrid turbo setups that are near bolt in and will get you a good bump in horsepower. holset is not a stock turbo upgrade. it will take some fab work and requires other accessories to work. it may sound cheap at first, but to do any turbo system right with all new parts (turbo not included) would cost about 700 or more. Then you add the turbo…


Careless: (2012-05-25 05:39:39)

http://www.shredmotorsport.co.nz/technical/race-fuel/

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

that's 590 hp.


Careless: (2012-05-25 05:47:39)

HX30

- The Holset HX30 is suitable for engines of up to 5 litres capacity requiring up to 0.35kg/s of air at 3.1.

- Aimed at medium duty applications, the Holset HX30 is a well proven turbocharger on many 4 cylinder automotive, bus, agricultural and industrial applications.

Standard Features:

- Choice of turbine housing materials to cover a wide range of temperatures.

- Compressor and turbine wheels selected for optimum airflow, efficiency and pressure ratio.

- Fully adjustable compressor and turbine housing orientation.

- Fully-floating twin hydrodynamic journal bearings.

- High efficiency compressors with broad operating ranges.

- High pressure ratio capability.

- Superback compressor wheels for extended life and durability at high turbo speeds.

- Symmetrical twin flow turbine housings.

- Variety of compressor and turbine housing flanges available.

Optional Features:

- MWETM (Map Width Enhancement) compressor inlet.

- Sound suppression baffles.

- Watercooled bearing housings.

Holset HX30

For Engine Capacity (litres) = Up to 5

Output Range (hp) = 90-240

Airflow (kg/s) = 0.35

DIMENSIONS:

Length (mm) = 222

Width (mm) = 217

Height (mm) = 154

Smallest Mass (kg) = 8

Largest Mass (kg) = 10

OPTIONS:

Wastegate

Watercooled B/H or T/H

Holset HX35

- Designed primarily for 6 cylinder engines of 5.0 to 6.5 litre capacity, the Holset HX35 turbocharger has higher flow aerodynamics capable of providing up to 0.46 kg/s at 3.0:1 pressure ratio.

- A number of compressor and turbine options are available all featuring excellent map width, pressure ratio and efficiency.

- Enhanced durability compressors are available.

Standard Features:

- Choice of turbine housing materials to cover a wide range of temperatures.

- Compressor and turbine wheels selected for optimum airflow, efficiency and pressure ratio.

- Fully adjustable compressor and turbine housing orientation.

- Fully-floating twin hydrodynamic journal bearings.

- High efficiency compressors with broad operating ranges.

- High pressure ratio capability.

- Superback compressor wheels for extended life and durability at high turbo speeds.

- Symmetrical twin flow turbine housings.

- Variety of compressor and turbine housing flanges available.

Optional Features:

- CNG Engine version.

- MWETM (Map Width Enhancement)compressor inlet.

- Sound suppression baffles.

- Watercooled bearing housings.

Holset HX35

For Engine Capacity (litres) = 5.0 - 6.5

Output Range (hp) = 100-280

Airflow (kg/s) = 0.46

DIMENSIONS:

Length (mm) = 224

Width (mm) = 250

Height (mm) = 169

Smallest Mass (kg) = 9

Largest Mass (kg) = 11

OPTIONS:

Wastegate

Watercooled B/H or T/H B/H

Ti Impeller

MFS Impeller

CNG Version

^- the HY35W uses the same/similar compressor to the HX35.

Holset HX40

- Developed for 7 to 10 litre engines operating in the medium/light heavy automotive sector this Holset turbocharger has many of the features found in the Holset heavy-duty range of products.

- Generously sized bearings with watercooled housing options for applications with highly cyclic operations support a recently upgraded set of aerodynamic components.

- Popular in a wide range of automotive and bus applications the Holset HX40 is widely used in European and North American applications.

Standard Features:

- Choice of turbine housing materials to cover a wide range of temperatures.

- Compressor and turbine wheels selected for optimum airflow, efficiency and pressure ratio.

- Fully adjustable compressor and turbine housing orientation.

- Fully-floating twin hydrodynamic journal bearings.

- High efficiency compressors with broad operating ranges.

- High pressure ratio capability.

- Superback compressor wheels for extended life and durability at high turbo speeds.

- Symmetrical twin flow turbine housings.

- Variety of compressor and turbine housing flanges available.

Optional Features:

- High durability impellers available.

- Command valve boost control.

- MWETM (Map Width Enhancement) compressor inlet.

- EWM (Exhaust Waste Management) turbine exducer.

- Sound suppression baffles.

- Watercooled bearing housings.

Holset HX40

For Engine Capacity (litres) = 7 – 10

Output Range (hp) = 175-350

Airflow (kg/s) = 0.53

DIMENSIONS:

Length (mm) = 231

Width (mm) = 250

Height (mm) = 169

Smallest Mass (kg) = 11

Largest Mass (kg) = 14

OPTIONS:

Wastegate

Watercooled B/H or T/H B/H

MFS Impeller


Kstout24: (2012-06-24 13:54:11)

so im going to turbo my 86 with a holset i picked up for free, it just needs a rebuild. my question is how do i know which holset turbo it is? as in which model? this will be my first turbo build so i just want to make sure everything gos smooth.


Careless: (2012-06-24 14:40:46)

nothing personal, but if you don't know how to identify the turbo by searching and comparing on various websites, how do you expect this to go smooth? you have a lot of work to do.

start looking at the ID tags, typing in any numbers, and looking up pictures of holsets. You can even take the compressor and turbine covers off and measure the wheels and compare to other sites.


Kstout24: (2012-06-27 03:31:03)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

thats the thing, i looked for any sort of numbers or anything else along those lines to ID it and couldnt come up with anything. most pictures i look up are all the same. but its all good i just took it to a buddy who works in a import perfomance shop who has a 85 z31 and hes doing everything for me.


Careless: (2012-06-27 04:03:13)

that means its not a real holset or the tag has been taken off. you need to measure the wheels.


gardner86zx: (2012-06-27 06:46:35)

The he351 tag is on the wastegate actuator.


Careless: (2012-06-27 07:00:17)

posting pictures to the boards will just solve the issues. it's probably identifiable with a couple of good shots.


MADMIKE: (2012-07-17 04:20:29)

Anybody running a hx35g round these parts?


DMANN: (2012-08-04 13:34:56)

All the holsets I have the tags are all on the compressor housing.

I just took the numbers into a local cummins/ diesel place and they looked it all up!

Even was able to give what year and size of the bus they came off of.

Heck they even used the Hx 25 and 30 on tomato pickers.


Careless: (2012-08-04 17:44:54)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

if they have the 10cm^2 HX30 turbine housing with internal gate, I'd love to get my hands on one.


MADMIKE: (2012-08-13 05:04:45)

While we are on the subject I was looking into housings for my hx35/40 hybrid. What is a good A/R to shoot for with a vg33?


G-E: (2012-08-13 05:21:22)

That will depend on how soon you want to hit boost and how high you want to go… probably .82 range


Careless: (2012-08-13 07:41:20)

there is no .82 A/R housing for holset HX series.

10cm2 = .73 A/R

12cm2 = .89 A/R


MADMIKE: (2012-08-13 16:05:26)

Would the 10cm choke out to early, and please forgive my lack of knowledge what would be a rough ceiling between the two, hp & rpm wise


shromy: (2012-08-13 16:10:23)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

For what hp? Should provide quick spooling and 400 hp.


Careless: (2012-08-13 16:35:54)

spool on the .89 is good for not losing traction at lower PSI like my current setting (8 to 10), but I'd like to have a bit better spool so if you're looking for response… I'd go with the 10cm2 housing on a holset. It would transform it into something more like a GT3071/76 rather than a GT3582, which is more like what the holset HX40/35 hybrids are closer too.


MADMIKE: (2012-08-13 18:07:23)

Thanks for the info. I am not the super Revvy type, and I would prefer the better response. I just wasn't sure if it would fall on it's face at 5500 rpms with a 10cm housing. I hear these are a little hard to come buy though.

10cm ? does this housing come with twin scroll and vband outlet?


shromy: (2012-08-13 18:11:03)

Cams are what's going to cause the powerband to fall off.


MADMIKE: (2012-08-13 18:32:14)

well that and the heads not breathing past what ever that wall was. 7.5-8k?


shromy: (2012-08-13 19:13:56)

I meant at 5.5k. Stock cams are to blame for that. Turbo wont change that.


MADMIKE: (2012-08-13 19:27:47)

I have a set of ISKY for now, but I may go JWT not really sure what I want to do with that yet


Careless: (2012-08-13 19:34:20)

10cm is found on the HX30, which makes it much more rare than the HX35/W's 12cm housing.

10cm is twin scroll, and I believe it's available in both v-band and key-hole flange type. If it's keyhole flange, you can just get a flange with V-band on it, or weld one to the flanges that the guy in the For Sale section is offering for a great price.


DMANN: (2012-08-13 22:24:34)

A Hx 35/40 combo is nice really nice…

Hx 35, have revved passed 7000rpms more than once, and it still pulls.


G-E: (2012-08-14 05:44:08)

I think the bigger issue is running out of useable rpm before things start breaking, not so much running out of turbo capacity


slammedcoupe: (2012-12-18 19:19:32)

any one know where to get specs on a said holset when i have the numbers off the data plate?

also, i have an h1c. would it be better to weld a flange to the stock mani or crossover pipe and run a 38mm external wastegate or switch exhaust housings to an hx35 internal wastegate?

going to be running in stock turbo location.

thanks,

Chris


supertoad120: (2013-09-20 22:59:29)

http://www.turbointernational.com/ If you search the turbo p/n it will give you a list of the components. You can click on most of them which will give you some specs and dimensions.


Kennedy: (2013-11-08 18:38:27)

Has anyone used HX35Super or HX40Super?


New2Zs: (2013-11-14 19:36:37)

I was looking at the holset hx series the other day using a factory catalog that gave specs and etc. Of every hx series turbo and what they came on and didn't see any type of hxsuper


Kennedy: (2013-11-15 06:45:12)

I can't find english pages. Keeps showing too many local language pages.

http://www.kkdmotorsport.com/kauppa....0&k=1270835105

http://www.kkdmotorsport.com/kauppa....6&k=1270835105


jaqattack02: (2013-11-15 15:33:51)

That's probably not a real Holset. A lot of knock offs have started showing up lately. Either that or it's some kind of custom deal that company came up with. If you want a "better" Holset, you'd be better off getting a real one, a Bullseye Power exhaust housing and a Batmowheel.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod…at=1758&page=1

http://www.bullseyepower.com/wheels-bmwhe351.asp


Kennedy: (2013-11-17 19:59:08)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

It is real and pretty much every single turbo dealer in here sells them. Knock off are illegal and customs will take them.

http://www.myholsetturbo.com/40appnotes.html - maybe this is HX40Super that they sell in here.


Tempast: (2013-11-17 21:47:07)

How would they know it's a knock off…


jaqattack02: (2013-11-18 14:00:44)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

If that is a legit Holset site, then it looks like the Super 40 exists, but I don't see anything there about a Super 35. The fact that that one is shown with the Holset ID and serial tag removed makes me think it's not a genuine Holset product and is just something that site puts together using Holset housings. All I can find about legit upgraded Holsets is info on a Super 40 and a Pro 52.


Kennedy: (2013-11-19 10:09:26)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

It's Customs job to know genuine and counterfeit.


Silli: (2013-11-21 14:35:49)

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Lol, I can come up with some local shops selling chinacopy turbo as many as they can here in finland. [archived image: rolleyes.png]


Kennedy: (2013-11-22 07:34:02)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

And they sell those chinacopys as Holset etc.?

China crap they sell, but not as original.

Mutta kerro ihmessä mikä firma myy kiinapaskaa aitoina holsetteina vaikkapas.


Silli: (2013-11-22 10:10:23)

{{#if:| wrote:|Quote:}}

Well, we where talking slightly diffrent things here. I meant xspower etc as chinacopys not at they claim they are real holsets but copy ones..I think missing manufacturer plate from compressor housing doesnt alway mean copy but missing the place for plate woud mean [archived image: rolleyes.png] [/end of bs]


jaqattack02: (2013-11-22 13:35:01)

I wasn't saying missing the plate made it a copy, I was saying missing the plate may indicate it's not original, as in the internal components have been changed. Whether that's for better or worse, I couldn't say.


Silli: (2014-07-30 19:52:24)

Holset can be misleading in some of their products. One example is under prod.code 4038471. Its sold as HX35W stamped in plates/docs but what you really get is 54/60 mm wheels in H1C CHRA. Surprice if ya wanted watercooled chra. That was found accidently while ago. After gooping some more into this, We found other similarities in these according information from official importer. Holset uses parts from different generations sometimes. So if you really want some specific, better see it before buying.