Editing Forums/Z31P/z31-performance-upgrade-forums engine-management/HPX wiring

{{ForumImport
|op_user=300zxturboftw
|op_date=2014-09-14 19:23:52
|post_count=21
|archive_url=/Z31performance_archive/forum/z31-performance-upgrade-forums/engine-management/24301-hpx-wiring.html
}}

'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-14 19:23:52)</small>

So I'm using a HPX blow through MAF and can't figure out the wiring. The connector is from an 05 ford cobra Pigtail. Colors are Red,Black,Brown,Light Blue, Grey, Grey. AZ bum posted this and I tried wiring it that way (colors are slightly different) but it's still on limp mode. Anyone know how to wire this sucker up>?

Ford-Cobra-MFA-wiring.jpg

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'''nismopu:''' <small>(2014-09-14 19:40:39)</small>

Lemme go take a pic of mine but just quickly looking at zbums, it seems right.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-15 04:05:06)</small>

A pic would be great

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'''G-E:''' <small>(2014-09-15 12:08:59)</small>

Isn't the HPX 3-wire like the Q45 ?

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'''707Redz31:''' <small>(2014-09-15 13:15:01)</small>

My cobra connector was 3 wire. And grounds should be crossed…

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'''jaqattack02:''' <small>(2014-09-15 13:58:07)</small>

There's info on the wiring on the Nistune site too.

https://dev.z31library.com/external_images/nistune.com/docs/MAF_and_Consult_pinouts.pdf

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-15 17:01:38)</small>

This is what I got

[http://www.ebay.com/itm/281418552406 http://www.ebay.com/itm/281418552406]

The Pigtail is a 2005 mustang pigtail:

[archived image: 60_12.jpg]

Mustang Pigtail to Z31 connector

Red - Black/White (power)

Black - Black (ground)

brown - black (ground)

blue - shielded black (output)

grey - not connected

grey - not connected

^Above set-up is not working. Should I be connecting the red or yellow wire from the Z31. One is the self cleaning which I know I don't need, but the other?

Z31 VG30 (2 - 7 volt)

Pin A = Calibration pos (variable resistor)

Pin B = output voltage (black shielded 2-7 volts)

Pin C = ground (black - chassis)

Pin D = ground (black - ECCS)

Pin E = battery source (12V black striped)

Pin F = self cleaning mechanism (not used with Z32 MAF)

I can always hook NIStune up and log until I have a signal from the MAF, but any direction first would be a lot easier if someone has had experience.

Edit:

seems that both wires are NOT grounds on mustang MAF. This is the issue. AZ's diagram is wrong:

[archived image: 2012-05-07_125306_a1.jpg]

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'''jaqattack02:''' <small>(2014-09-16 04:22:26)</small>

Looks to me like Pin 3 from the Mustang harness needs to go to what was connected to Pin B on the Z31.

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'''shromy:''' <small>(2014-09-18 19:39:11)</small>

^agreed. your ecu has had the maf mods done as well i suspect.

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'''Axel kain:''' <small>(2014-09-18 19:58:02)</small>

I hope you have modded the ECU board for running 0-5V instead of the factory 2-7V setup… I have the exact same setup on a friends car, with the HPX calibrated for Z32 spec.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-18 20:00:54)</small>

Uhhhh.....noooo. This is new info to me. Someone spoon feed me the link to the ECU mod for MAF please.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-18 20:04:38)</small>

This?

The hardware changes required to run a different MAF are simple, and as you have probably already socked your ECU, disconnecting these resistors should be cake (the two parallel ones and r201, I removed R201 and just cut the other two):[archived image: resistormod.jpg]

What did you do to keep limp mode? what new resistor/potentiometer do you place where the old resisters were? Sorry this is not my specialty.

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'''Axel kain:''' <small>(2014-09-19 12:16:28)</small>

^the procedure is different, depending on which ECU range youre working with.

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'''shromy:''' <small>(2014-09-19 13:47:21)</small>

the one you posted is for 88-89 iirc, may include 87 but, that is the procedure. lip mode would stay in theory, never had a maf failure after the mod or even tested it to see.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-19 13:54:15)</small>

Yeah I have an 87 NA board. I'll break it down on sunday to see and clip the 2 resistors. How do you remove 201? I'm terrible with electronic boards…never really done any work on one before.

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'''Axel kain:''' <small>(2014-09-19 14:48:12)</small>

nistune's instructions are pretty clear on how to do the mod to the different boards.

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'''shromy:''' <small>(2014-09-19 15:05:47)</small>

For the 201 use a soldering iron and pick. once you heat the solder on both sides sufficiently it will come right off.

It appears from the nistune doc that the mods are the same for an 87 as well.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-09-19 15:17:47)</small>

Appreciate the help guys. Got a tune in October so I'm scurrying to get this sucker together quickly. Being 2 hours away from the car now doesn't help.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-10-06 14:14:45)</small>

Got everything working last night.

Cobra to Z31:

Blue goes to shielded black.

Brown goes to ground (black)

black goes to ground (black)

red goes to power (black/white)

Had to make ECU modification before anything worked too. Worked fine once I took out pin 13 in my ecu.

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'''Axel kain:''' <small>(2014-10-06 17:39:50)</small>

^^ ** brown to small black, and black to bigger black. the smaller black is the ECU routed ground.

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'''300zxturboftw:''' <small>(2014-10-06 18:18:01)</small>

{{Quote|user=Axel kain|^^ ** brown to small black, and black to bigger black. the smaller black is the ECU routed ground.}}

Precisely. Brown/Tan is MAF return ground.

Black to big black is chassis ground.