Editing S130/frontstrutreplacement php (section)

=== Bushings, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods ===

* Remove tension rod to front mount nut (bushing nut) and withdraw tension rod from the front mount.
* Separate tie rod ends from steering knuckle.
* Remove tie rod ends from steering rack, holding the threaded part so it does not turn (use an open-end or adjustable wrench on the flats). Count the turns required to remove the outer tie rod end. Swap grease fittings to new tie rod ends, or preferably use new fittings.
* Install new tie rod ends onto steering rack, turning them the same number of turns as removal.
* Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Incrementally torque the castle nut, checking alignment with the cotter pin hole. Install new cotter pin and tighten tie rod adjustment lock nuts, again holding the flats on the threaded part.
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Remove steering knuckle-to-strut bolts.
Issue: On the right side, one bolt was so tight that I broke the drive square on a ½" to ⅜" socket adapter. Fix: Used a 6-point Craftsman box wrench, sat on the asphalt, and pushed with my foot. Took three 60° pushes before loosening enough to turn by hand. Threads were fine, so I reused it.

* Remove strut mounting insulator nuts (three nuts securing the strut mount to the hoodledge —
'''NOT'''the strut piston nut). -
Remove strut and spring assembly and set aside for rebuild.
Use a large screwdriver to pry the strut loose from the steering knuckle, then pry down on the control arm/knuckle/ball joint enough to remove the strut.
The strut assembly is heavy (~50 lbs), so maintain a stable squatting or kneeling position and keep a firm grip.

* Remove cotter pin and castle nut from lower ball joint. Keep ball joint/tension rod bolts in place during removal to avoid deforming the control arm.
* Separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle.
* Remove lower ball joint mounting bolts and remove lower joint. Swap grease fittings to the new ball joint or use new ones.
* Install new lower ball joint to control arm, but only install the inner (short) bolt for now.
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While tension rod bolts are out, install new tension rod bushings with new self-locking nuts.
Tip: With the struts out, lay the control arm end of the tension rods on top of the control arm so the rod is nearly orthogonal to its front mount. Clean rust and rubber from the bushing caps and frame to allow enough thread engagement for the nuts to start by hand.

* Install tension rod mounting bolts (thread through the lower ball joint via the control arm).
* Install stabilizer bar end link and mounting bushings. Remove the front lower shield under the engine to access stabilizer mounting brackets. Torque all stabilizer nuts and bolts to spec, then reinstall the lower front shield.
* Install lower ball joint into steering knuckle.
* Incrementally torque the ball joint castle nut, checking alignment with the cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin when torque is correct and the hole aligns with a nut slot.
* With struts out, the stabilizer bar can hold control arms so that tension rods are nearly orthogonal to their mounts. Since a torque wrench with 17mm socket wouldn’t fit inside the mount, I used a 17mm open-end wrench to snug the nuts until they bottomed against the bushing spacer. (Not factory procedure, but it worked in my case.)