Z31 Library - User contributions [en]

Main Page

2026-05-17T04:23:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Condense static archives to dedicated page link

{| style="width:100%; border:0;"
| style="vertical-align:top; padding:0 12px 0 0;" |
'''Welcome to the Z31 Library''' — a community-maintained reference for the Nissan 300ZX (Z31, 1984–1989).
|}

== Z31 quick reference ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine specs
|-
! Engine !! Displacement !! Power (US) !! Torque (US)
|-
| VG30E (N/A) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 160 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 174 lb·ft @ 4,000 rpm
|-
| VG30ET (turbo) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 200 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 227 lb·ft @ 3,600 rpm
|}

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine internal specs
|-
! Engine !! Bore × Stroke !! Compression !! Configuration
|-
| VG30E || 87 mm × 83 mm || 9.0:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve
|-
| VG30ET || 87 mm × 83 mm || 7.8:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + IHI turbo
|-
| VG30ET (W series) || 87 mm × 83 mm || 8.3:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + T25 watercooled turbo
|}

=== Oil change ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! Filter !! Capacity (w/ filter) !! Recommended viscosity
|-
| VG30E || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|-
| VG30ET || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|}

* Change interval: every 3,000 mi (conventional) or 5,000 mi (synthetic)
* Drain plug torque: 22–29 lb·ft (29–39 N·m)

=== Transmission fluid ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Trans !! Type !! Capacity
|-
| FS5W71C (5-speed MT) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90 or 80W-90) || 2.5 qt (2.4 L)
|-
| RS5F50A (5-speed MT, 1988–89 N/A) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90) || 2.4 qt (2.3 L)
|-
| RE4W03A (4-speed AT) || Dexron II/III ATF || 7.4 qt total (3.2 qt service fill)
|}

=== Coolant ===

* System capacity: ~8.5 qt (8.1 L)
* Factory spec: 50/50 green ethylene-glycol coolant
* Thermostat opens: 82 °C (180 °F)

=== Spark plugs ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! OEM plug !! Gap
|-
| VG30E || NGK BKR5E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P15 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|-
| VG30ET || NGK BKR6E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P16 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|}

=== Timing belt ===

* Replacement interval: 60,000 mi (96,000 km)
* See [[Z31/timingbelt|Timing belt replacement]] for full procedure

=== Tire sizes (stock) ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Year !! Front !! Rear
|-
| 1984–1985 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1986–1989 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1987–1989 2+2 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|}

* Factory rim: 15 × 6.5 JJ (front), 15 × 7.0 JJ (rear)

== Z31 reference ==

* [[Z31]] — Z31 hub page
* [[Z31/reference|Z31 reference index]] — full XenonZcar Z31 reference
* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]] · [[Z31/issues|Common issues & fixes]] · [[Z31/mods|Modifications]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Factory Service Manuals (FSM)]] · [[Z31/z31ownersmanuals_php|Owner's manuals]]
* [[Z31/Nuts_and_Bolts|Nuts & bolts — thread pitch, torque specs]]
* [[Z31/Models|3D / STL / 2D models — printable parts & fabrication files]]
* [[:Category:Imported from Xenonzcar|Browse all imported XenonZcar pages]]

== Related Z-car content ==

* [[S30]] — 240Z / 260Z / 280Z (1970–1978)
* [[S130]] — 280ZX (1979–1983), predecessor
* [[Z32]] — 300ZX (1990–2000), successor

== Forums ==

* [[Forums/Z31P|z31performance.com archive]] — Sept 2024 import, ~2762 threads organized by category
* [[Forums|Forums landing]] — all forum archives

== Static site archives ==

[[Static Archives]] — 15 preserved sites including z31.com, thumper300zx, xenonzcar, zhome, robrobinette, msextra, nistune, and more.

== Getting started ==

* [[Special:RecentChanges|Recent changes]] · [[Special:AllPages|All pages]] · [[Special:Categories|Categories]]

Static Archives

2026-05-17T04:22:49Z

XenonzcarImporter: Create Static Archives index page with all 15 preserved sites

= Z31 Library — Static Site Archives =

Untouched HTML mirrors of Z31 and Z-car reference sites, preserved here as-is.
All content belongs to the original authors. External links within archived pages are not guaranteed to work.

== Z31 technical reference ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
|-
! Site !! Archive !! Contents !! Files
|-
| [http://www.z31.com z31.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/z31com_archive/ z31com_archive] || Repair guides (brakes, timing belt, overheating, suspension, injectors, etc.), mods (turbo, intake, exhaust, coilovers), FAQs || ~169
|-
| [http://www.thumper300zx.com thumper300zx.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.thumper300zx.com/ extras_archive/thumper] || Z31 repair guides: overheating FAQ, valve covers, crossmember bushings, slave cylinder, cruise control, engine project, cluster cleanup || ~396
|-
| [http://www.xenonzcar.com xenonzcar.com (Z31 section)] || [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31.html xenonzcar_archive] || Full XenonZcar Z31 reference: FSMs, FICHE viewer, specs, how-to pages, parts diagrams || ~2,464
|-
| [https://www.robrobinette.com robrobinette.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/robrobinette.com/ extras_archive/robrobinette] || Anti-roll bars, suspension, alarm/turbo timer wiring, Android car calculator, Suspension Spreadsheet || ~299
|-
| [https://nissannut.com nissannut.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/nissannut.com/ extras_archive/nissannut] || Z31 FSM directory, maintenance guides, parts/tools links || ~43
|}

== Z-car general reference ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
|-
! Site !! Archive !! Contents !! Files
|-
| [http://www.zhome.com zhome.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.zhome.com/ extras_archive/zhome] || IZCC (International Z Car Club), buying guides for all Z generations, Z history, VIN registers, club directory || ~389
|-
| [https://z31world.wordpress.com z31world.wordpress.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/z31world_archive/ z31world_archive] || Z31 build blog: NA→turbo conversion, intake manifold deletes, harmonic balancer, photo build logs || ~232
|-
| [http://www.z31club.com z31club.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.z31club.com/ extras_archive/z31club] || Z31 Club: maintenance archive, news, events, members || ~407
|-
| [http://z31.com z31.info] || [https://dev.z31library.com/z31info_archive/ z31info_archive] || z31.info home page (SPA — full content available as [[Z31info|imported wiki pages]]) || ~92
|}

== ECU & engine management ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
|-
! Site !! Archive !! Contents !! Files
|-
| [https://www.msextra.com msextra.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/msextra_archive/ msextra_archive] || MegaSquirt MS1/MS2/MS3 manuals, schematics, wiring diagrams, forum-info, suppliers || ~220
|-
| [https://www.nistune.com nistune.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.nistune.com/ extras_archive/nistune] || NisTune ECU tuning for Nissan Z-cars: instructions, diagrams, product docs || ~219
|}

== Community & clubs ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
|-
! Site !! Archive !! Contents !! Files
|-
| [https://forums.hybridz.org forums.hybridz.org] || [https://dev.z31library.com/hybridz_archive/ hybridz_archive] || HybridZ forum: Z31/Z32/S30 engine swap builds, tech Q&A — ''thread-level crawl in progress'' || ~89+
|-
| [https://www.ziptied.com ziptied.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/ziptied_archive/ ziptied_archive] || ZipTied Z-car forum — ''crawl in progress'' || ~10+
|-
| [http://garymolitor.com garymolitor.com] || [https://dev.z31library.com/garymolitor_archive/ garymolitor_archive] || Gary Molitor's Z31 clay sculpture, photography, and 3D art || ~237
|}

== Original forum archives ==

* [https://dev.z31library.com/Z31performance_archive/ z31performance.com forum] — vBulletin archive, ~2,762 threads (Sept 2024 import; also available as [[Forums/Z31P|wiki pages]])

== Extras (miscellaneous archived sites) ==

The following are available under [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/ /extras_archive/] but not individually listed above:

* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.frozenboost.com/ frozenboost.com] — Turbo silicone hoses & piping reference
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.thezenthusiast.com/ thezenthusiast.com] — Z enthusiast events and show coverage
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/japanesenostalgiccar.com/ japanesenostalgiccar.com] — JNC articles featuring Z-cars
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.mygen.com/ mygen.com] — Z-car community content
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/rbryant.freeshell.org/ rbryant.freeshell.org] — Z-car technical pages

== Notes ==

* ''Crawl in progress'' — these archives are being built out with thread-level content and will grow over time.
* Archives preserve the original HTML as mirrored; converted links point to local copies where resolved.
* File counts are approximate and reflect the state at the time of last crawl.

[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Z31]]

Main Page

2026-05-17T04:06:32Z

XenonzcarImporter: Add 7 new mirrored sites to static archives list

{| style="width:100%; border:0;"
| style="vertical-align:top; padding:0 12px 0 0;" |
'''Welcome to the Z31 Library''' — a community-maintained reference for the Nissan 300ZX (Z31, 1984–1989).
|}

== Z31 quick reference ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine specs
|-
! Engine !! Displacement !! Power (US) !! Torque (US)
|-
| VG30E (N/A) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 160 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 174 lb·ft @ 4,000 rpm
|-
| VG30ET (turbo) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 200 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 227 lb·ft @ 3,600 rpm
|}

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine internal specs
|-
! Engine !! Bore × Stroke !! Compression !! Configuration
|-
| VG30E || 87 mm × 83 mm || 9.0:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve
|-
| VG30ET || 87 mm × 83 mm || 7.8:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + IHI turbo
|-
| VG30ET (W series) || 87 mm × 83 mm || 8.3:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + T25 watercooled turbo
|}

=== Oil change ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! Filter !! Capacity (w/ filter) !! Recommended viscosity
|-
| VG30E || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|-
| VG30ET || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|}

* Change interval: every 3,000 mi (conventional) or 5,000 mi (synthetic)
* Drain plug torque: 22–29 lb·ft (29–39 N·m)

=== Transmission fluid ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Trans !! Type !! Capacity
|-
| FS5W71C (5-speed MT) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90 or 80W-90) || 2.5 qt (2.4 L)
|-
| RS5F50A (5-speed MT, 1988–89 N/A) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90) || 2.4 qt (2.3 L)
|-
| RE4W03A (4-speed AT) || Dexron II/III ATF || 7.4 qt total (3.2 qt service fill)
|}

=== Coolant ===

* System capacity: ~8.5 qt (8.1 L)
* Factory spec: 50/50 green ethylene-glycol coolant
* Thermostat opens: 82 °C (180 °F)

=== Spark plugs ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! OEM plug !! Gap
|-
| VG30E || NGK BKR5E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P15 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|-
| VG30ET || NGK BKR6E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P16 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|}

=== Timing belt ===

* Replacement interval: 60,000 mi (96,000 km)
* See [[Z31/timingbelt|Timing belt replacement]] for full procedure

=== Tire sizes (stock) ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Year !! Front !! Rear
|-
| 1984–1985 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1986–1989 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1987–1989 2+2 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|}

* Factory rim: 15 × 6.5 JJ (front), 15 × 7.0 JJ (rear)

== Z31 reference ==

* [[Z31]] — Z31 hub page
* [[Z31/reference|Z31 reference index]] — full XenonZcar Z31 reference
* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]] · [[Z31/issues|Common issues & fixes]] · [[Z31/mods|Modifications]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Factory Service Manuals (FSM)]] · [[Z31/z31ownersmanuals_php|Owner's manuals]]
* [[Z31/Nuts_and_Bolts|Nuts & bolts — thread pitch, torque specs]]
* [[Z31/Models|3D / STL / 2D models — printable parts & fabrication files]]
* [[:Category:Imported from Xenonzcar|Browse all imported XenonZcar pages]]

== Related Z-car content ==

* [[S30]] — 240Z / 260Z / 280Z (1970–1978)
* [[S130]] — 280ZX (1979–1983), predecessor
* [[Z32]] — 300ZX (1990–2000), successor

== Forums ==

* [[Forums/Z31P|z31performance.com archive]] — Sept 2024 import, ~2762 threads organized by category
* [[Forums|Forums landing]] — all forum archives

== Static site archives ==

Browse the original sites as they appeared (untouched HTML mirrors):

* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31.html xenonzcar.com] — XenonZcar Z31 reference section
* [https://dev.z31library.com/z31info_archive/ z31.info] — Z31.info home (SPA; see [[Z31info|imported content]])
* [https://dev.z31library.com/Z31performance_archive/ z31performance.com] — vBulletin forum archive
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/ extras archive] — miscellaneous mirrored sites
* [https://dev.z31library.com/garymolitor_archive/ garymolitor.com] — Gary Molitor's Z31 art & reference
* [https://dev.z31library.com/z31com_archive/ z31.com] — z31.com reference
* [https://dev.z31library.com/z31world_archive/ z31world.wordpress.com] — Z31 World blog
* [https://dev.z31library.com/msextra_archive/ msextra.com] — MegaSquirt ECU reference (MS1/MS2/MS3)
* [https://dev.z31library.com/hybridz_archive/ forums.hybridz.org] — HybridZ forum (Z31/Z32 engine swaps)
* [https://dev.z31library.com/ziptied_archive/ ziptied.com] — Z-car technical guides

== Getting started ==

* [[Special:RecentChanges|Recent changes]] · [[Special:AllPages|All pages]] · [[Special:Categories|Categories]]

Main Page

2026-05-17T04:00:24Z

XenonzcarImporter: Add Z31/Models link to main nav

{| style="width:100%; border:0;"
| style="vertical-align:top; padding:0 12px 0 0;" |
'''Welcome to the Z31 Library''' — a community-maintained reference for the Nissan 300ZX (Z31, 1984–1989).
|}

== Z31 quick reference ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine specs
|-
! Engine !! Displacement !! Power (US) !! Torque (US)
|-
| VG30E (N/A) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 160 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 174 lb·ft @ 4,000 rpm
|-
| VG30ET (turbo) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 200 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 227 lb·ft @ 3,600 rpm
|}

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine internal specs
|-
! Engine !! Bore × Stroke !! Compression !! Configuration
|-
| VG30E || 87 mm × 83 mm || 9.0:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve
|-
| VG30ET || 87 mm × 83 mm || 7.8:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + IHI turbo
|-
| VG30ET (W series) || 87 mm × 83 mm || 8.3:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + T25 watercooled turbo
|}

=== Oil change ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! Filter !! Capacity (w/ filter) !! Recommended viscosity
|-
| VG30E || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|-
| VG30ET || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|}

* Change interval: every 3,000 mi (conventional) or 5,000 mi (synthetic)
* Drain plug torque: 22–29 lb·ft (29–39 N·m)

=== Transmission fluid ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Trans !! Type !! Capacity
|-
| FS5W71C (5-speed MT) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90 or 80W-90) || 2.5 qt (2.4 L)
|-
| RS5F50A (5-speed MT, 1988–89 N/A) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90) || 2.4 qt (2.3 L)
|-
| RE4W03A (4-speed AT) || Dexron II/III ATF || 7.4 qt total (3.2 qt service fill)
|}

=== Coolant ===

* System capacity: ~8.5 qt (8.1 L)
* Factory spec: 50/50 green ethylene-glycol coolant
* Thermostat opens: 82 °C (180 °F)

=== Spark plugs ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! OEM plug !! Gap
|-
| VG30E || NGK BKR5E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P15 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|-
| VG30ET || NGK BKR6E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P16 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|}

=== Timing belt ===

* Replacement interval: 60,000 mi (96,000 km)
* See [[Z31/timingbelt|Timing belt replacement]] for full procedure

=== Tire sizes (stock) ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Year !! Front !! Rear
|-
| 1984–1985 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1986–1989 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1987–1989 2+2 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|}

* Factory rim: 15 × 6.5 JJ (front), 15 × 7.0 JJ (rear)

== Z31 reference ==

* [[Z31]] — Z31 hub page
* [[Z31/reference|Z31 reference index]] — full XenonZcar Z31 reference
* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]] · [[Z31/issues|Common issues & fixes]] · [[Z31/mods|Modifications]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Factory Service Manuals (FSM)]] · [[Z31/z31ownersmanuals_php|Owner's manuals]]
* [[Z31/Nuts_and_Bolts|Nuts & bolts — thread pitch, torque specs]]
* [[Z31/Models|3D / STL / 2D models — printable parts & fabrication files]]
* [[:Category:Imported from Xenonzcar|Browse all imported XenonZcar pages]]

== Related Z-car content ==

* [[S30]] — 240Z / 260Z / 280Z (1970–1978)
* [[S130]] — 280ZX (1979–1983), predecessor
* [[Z32]] — 300ZX (1990–2000), successor

== Forums ==

* [[Forums/Z31P|z31performance.com archive]] — Sept 2024 import, ~2762 threads organized by category
* [[Forums|Forums landing]] — all forum archives

== Static site archives ==

Browse the original sites as they appeared (untouched HTML mirrors):

* [https://dev.z31library.com/Z31performance_archive/ z31performance.com forum]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31.html xenonzcar.com (Z31 section)]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/z31info_archive/ z31.info (home only — see [[Z31info|imported content]])]

== Getting started ==

* [[Special:RecentChanges|Recent changes]] · [[Special:AllPages|All pages]] · [[Special:Categories|Categories]]

Z31/Models

2026-05-17T02:51:37Z

XenonzcarImporter: Remove CategoryTree dependency; use static category links

= Z31 Models — 3D, 2D & STL =

Community-submitted printable and fabrication models for the Nissan Z31 (1984–1989 300ZX).
All models are free to use for personal, non-commercial purposes unless otherwise noted by the uploader.

== How to submit a model ==

# Upload your file via [[Special:Upload]] (supported formats: STL, OBJ, STEP/STP, 3MF, DXF, SVG, FreeCAD .FCStd, Blender .blend; max 50 MB).
# In the '''File description''' box, include:
#* <code><nowiki>{{ModelPending}}</nowiki></code> — marks it for admin review
#* '''Part name''' — what it is
#* '''Car area''' — one of: engine bay, interior front, interior rear, doors/body, suspension, electrical, misc
#* '''Software''' — FreeCAD, Fusion 360, SolidWorks, Blender, OpenSCAD, etc.
#* '''Print settings''' (if STL) — material, infill %, layer height
#* '''Notes''' — fitment, version, license
# An admin will review and either approve (swaps tag to <code><nowiki>{{ModelApproved}}</nowiki></code>) or contact you with questions.

== Browse by area ==

=== Engine bay ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Engine bay|Browse engine bay models]]

=== Interior — front ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Interior front|Browse interior-front models]]

=== Interior — rear ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Interior rear|Browse interior-rear models]]

=== Doors & body ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Body|Browse body/door models]]

=== Suspension & drivetrain ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Suspension|Browse suspension models]]

=== Electrical & trim ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Electrical|Browse electrical/trim models]]

=== Miscellaneous ===
[[:Category:3D Models/Misc|Browse miscellaneous models]]

=== All approved models ===
[[:Category:3D Models|All approved models (combined)]]

== Pending review ==

Files awaiting admin approval: [[:Category:Models pending review|Pending review queue]]

== Admin workflow ==

To '''approve''' a submitted file:
# Open the file description page.
# Replace <code><nowiki>{{ModelPending}}</nowiki></code> with <code><nowiki>{{ModelApproved}}</nowiki></code>.
# Add the area sub-category, e.g. <code><nowiki>[[Category:3D Models/Engine bay]]</nowiki></code>.
# Save.

To '''reject''': delete the file via [[Special:DeletePage]] and leave a note on the uploader's talk page explaining why.

== See also ==

* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]]
* [[Z31/Nuts_and_Bolts|Nuts & bolts — torque specs]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Factory Service Manuals]]

[[Category:Z31]]
[[Category:Reference]]

Z31/Models

2026-05-17T02:40:02Z

XenonzcarImporter: Create Z31 Models hub with upload instructions and area categories

= Z31 Models — 3D, 2D & STL =

Community-submitted printable and fabrication models for the Nissan Z31 (1984–1989 300ZX).
All models are free to use for personal, non-commercial purposes unless otherwise noted by the uploader.

== How to submit a model ==

# Upload your file via [[Special:Upload]] (supported formats: STL, OBJ, STEP/STP, 3MF, DXF, SVG, FreeCAD .FCStd, Blender .blend; max 50 MB).
# In the file description box, include the template <code><nowiki>{{ModelPending}}</nowiki></code> and fill in:
#* '''Part name''' — what it is
#* '''Car area''' — see categories below
#* '''Software''' — what you used (FreeCAD, Fusion 360, SolidWorks, Blender, etc.)
#* '''Print settings''' (if STL) — recommended material, infill, layer height
#* '''Notes''' — fitment notes, version, license
# An admin will review and approve the file. Approved files appear below automatically via their <code><nowiki>{{ModelApproved}}</nowiki></code> tag.

== Categories ==

=== Engine bay ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Engine bay|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No approved engine bay models yet — [[Special:Upload|be the first to upload]].''

=== Interior — front ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Interior front|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No approved interior-front models yet.''

=== Interior — rear ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Interior rear|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No approved interior-rear models yet.''

=== Doors & body ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Body|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No approved body/door models yet.''

=== Suspension & drivetrain ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Suspension|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No approved suspension models yet.''

=== Electrical & trim ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Electrical|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No approved electrical/trim models yet.''

=== Miscellaneous ===

{{#categorytree:3D Models/Misc|mode=pages|hideroot=on}}

''No miscellaneous models yet.''

== Pending review ==

The following files have been submitted and are awaiting admin approval:

[[:Category:Models pending review|View all pending models]]

== Admin notes ==

To approve a submitted file:
# Open the file's description page.
# Replace <code><nowiki>{{ModelPending}}</nowiki></code> with <code><nowiki>{{ModelApproved}}</nowiki></code>.
# Add the appropriate area sub-category, e.g. <code><nowiki>[[Category:3D Models/Engine bay]]</nowiki></code>.
# Save — the file will now appear in the relevant section above.

To reject a file: delete the file page via [[Special:DeletePage]] and leave a note on the uploader's talk page explaining why.

== See also ==

* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]]
* [[Z31/Nuts_and_Bolts|Nuts & bolts — torque specs]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Factory Service Manuals]]

[[Category:Z31]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:3D Models]]

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<div style="background:#d4edda; border-left:4px solid #28a745; padding:8px 12px; margin:4px 0; font-size:90%;">
'''Approved''' — this model has been reviewed and is listed in the [[Z31/Models|Models index]].
</div>[[Category:3D Models]]

Template:ModelPending

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<div style="background:#fff3cd; border-left:4px solid #ffc107; padding:8px 12px; margin:4px 0; font-size:90%;">
'''Pending review''' — this model has been submitted and is awaiting admin approval before it is listed in the [[Z31/Models|Models index]].
</div>[[Category:Models pending review]]

Z31/Nuts and Bolts

2026-05-17T02:38:04Z

XenonzcarImporter: Create Z31 nuts and bolts: thread pitch and torque spec tables

= Z31 Nuts & Bolts — Thread Pitch and Torque Specs =

Reference tables for Z31 (1984–1989 Nissan 300ZX) fastener specifications.
All torque values are for clean, dry threads unless noted. N/A = not applicable or spec not established.

== Engine ==

=== VG30E/ET block ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m) !! Notes
|-
| Main bearing cap bolts || M11 × 1.25 || 36–43 || 49–59 || 2-stage; final 90° torque-angle optional
|-
| Rod bearing cap bolts || M9 × 1.25 || 22–27 || 30–36 ||
|-
| Cylinder head bolts || M11 × 1.25 || 62–68 || 84–93 || Cold; retorque after warmup
|-
| Camshaft bearing cap bolts || M8 × 1.25 || 13–15 || 18–20 ||
|-
| Rocker cover (valve cover) bolts || M6 × 1.0 || 2.9–3.6 || 4–5 ||
|-
| Oil pan bolts (to block) || M6 × 1.0 || 5–6 || 7–8 ||
|-
| Oil drain plug || M14 × 1.5 || 22–29 || 29–39 ||
|-
| Oil filter adapter || M20 × 1.5 || 12–15 || 16–20 ||
|-
| Spark plugs || M14 × 1.25 || 14–22 || 20–30 ||
|-
| Crankshaft pulley bolt || M24 × 1.5 || 159–174 || 216–235 ||
|-
| Flywheel / driveplate bolts || M10 × 1.25 || 61–69 || 83–93 ||
|-
| Timing belt tensioner || M8 × 1.25 || 12–15 || 16–21 ||
|-
| Thermostat housing || M6 × 1.0 || 5–8 || 7–11 ||
|-
| Intake manifold bolts || M8 × 1.25 || 13–15 || 18–20 ||
|-
| Exhaust manifold nuts || M10 × 1.25 || 27–35 || 37–47 ||
|-
| Turbo-to-manifold nuts (ET) || M10 × 1.25 || 27–35 || 37–47 ||
|-
| Turbo oil feed banjo bolt (ET) || M12 × 1.25 || 12–15 || 16–21 ||
|}

=== Lubrication ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m)
|-
| Oil pump bolts || M6 × 1.0 || 5–6 || 7–8
|-
| Oil pressure sender || M16 × 1.5 || 11–18 || 15–25
|}

== Transmission ==

=== Manual (FS5W71C / RS5F50A) ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m)
|-
| Trans-to-engine bolts || M12 × 1.25 || 29–36 || 39–49
|-
| Drain / fill plugs || M24 × 1.5 || 22–36 || 29–49
|-
| Rear mount-to-crossmember || M10 × 1.25 || 22–29 || 30–39
|-
| Shift lever retainer bolts || M8 × 1.25 || 9–12 || 12–16
|}

=== Automatic (RE4W03A) ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m)
|-
| Trans-to-engine bolts || M12 × 1.25 || 29–36 || 39–49
|-
| Torque converter-to-flexplate || M10 × 1.25 || 33–40 || 44–54
|-
| Trans oil pan bolts || M6 × 1.0 || 3.6–5 || 5–7
|-
| Trans drain plug || M18 × 1.5 || 22–29 || 29–39
|}

== Driveline ==

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m) !! Notes
|-
| Driveshaft-to-diff flange bolts || M10 × 1.25 || 29–36 || 39–49 ||
|-
| Driveshaft center bearing bracket || M8 × 1.25 || 9–14 || 12–19 ||
|-
| Differential mounting bolts || M12 × 1.25 || 40–47 || 54–64 ||
|-
| Axle/stub shaft nut (rear) || M24 × 1.5 || 152–203 || 206–275 || Stake after tightening
|-
| Half-shaft-to-diff bolts || M8 × 1.25 || 25–33 || 34–44 ||
|}

== Brakes ==

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m) !! Notes
|-
| Brake caliper slide pins || M8 × 1.25 || 16–23 || 22–31 ||
|-
| Caliper bracket bolts (front) || M12 × 1.25 || 53–72 || 72–97 ||
|-
| Caliper bracket bolts (rear) || M10 × 1.25 || 28–38 || 38–52 ||
|-
| Brake rotor screws || M6 × 1.0 || 4–7 || 5–9 ||
|-
| Master cylinder to booster || M10 × 1.25 || 7–12 || 9–16 ||
|-
| Brake line fittings (metric) || M10 × 1.0 || 10–13 || 14–18 ||
|-
| Wheel lug nuts || M12 × 1.25 || 58–72 || 79–98 || Conical seat
|}

== Suspension & steering ==

=== Front ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m) !! Notes
|-
| Strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt || M12 × 1.25 || 58–72 || 79–98 ||
|-
| Strut top mount nuts || M10 × 1.25 || 22–30 || 30–40 ||
|-
| Lower control arm pivot bolt || M14 × 1.5 || 69–83 || 94–113 || Tighten at ride height
|-
| Lower ball joint nut || M12 × 1.25 || 52–64 || 70–87 || Cotter pin
|-
| Sway bar end link nuts || M8 × 1.25 || 12–16 || 16–21 ||
|-
| Sway bar clamp bolts || M8 × 1.25 || 9–12 || 12–16 ||
|-
| Steering rack mount bolts || M10 × 1.25 || 29–36 || 39–49 ||
|-
| Tie rod end nut || M12 × 1.25 || 22–29 || 30–39 || Cotter pin
|-
| Tie rod jam nut || M14 × 1.5 || 58–72 || 79–98 ||
|}

=== Rear ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m) !! Notes
|-
| Strut-to-knuckle bolt || M12 × 1.25 || 58–72 || 79–98 ||
|-
| Strut top mount nuts || M10 × 1.25 || 22–30 || 30–40 ||
|-
| Rear lower arm pivot bolts || M14 × 1.5 || 69–83 || 94–113 || Tighten at ride height
|-
| Rear upper arm pivot bolts || M12 × 1.25 || 47–58 || 64–78 ||
|-
| Rear toe arm bolts || M14 × 1.5 || 69–83 || 94–113 ||
|-
| Rear sway bar end links || M8 × 1.25 || 12–16 || 16–21 ||
|-
| Rear crossmember bolts || M12 × 1.25 || 40–47 || 54–64 ||
|}

== Body & misc. ==

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Location !! Thread !! Torque (lb·ft) !! Torque (N·m)
|-
| Hood hinge bolts || M8 × 1.25 || 9–14 || 12–19
|-
| Seat belt anchor bolts || M12 × 1.25 || 22–29 || 30–39
|-
| Battery terminal bolts (side post) || M5 × 0.8 || 3–4 || 4–5
|}

== Notes ==

* All values from the Z31 FSM (Factory Service Manual) unless otherwise noted.
* Torque specs assume clean, dry threads. Add ~10% for oiled threads, or consult the FSM.
* Suspension fasteners marked "tighten at ride height" must be torqued with the suspension at normal ride height (car on ground or on a lift with suspension loaded), not with wheels hanging.
* "Stake" means deform the nut flange into the shaft groove after torquing to prevent loosening.

== See also ==

* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Z31 Factory Service Manuals]] — full FSM PDFs
* [[Z31/timingbelt|Timing belt replacement]]
* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]]

[[Category:Z31]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Main Page

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XenonzcarImporter: Add Z31 quick-reference specs (oil, engine, transmission, tires)

{| style="width:100%; border:0;"
| style="vertical-align:top; padding:0 12px 0 0;" |
'''Welcome to the Z31 Library''' — a community-maintained reference for the Nissan 300ZX (Z31, 1984–1989).
|}

== Z31 quick reference ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine specs
|-
! Engine !! Displacement !! Power (US) !! Torque (US)
|-
| VG30E (N/A) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 160 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 174 lb·ft @ 4,000 rpm
|-
| VG30ET (turbo) || 2,960 cc (3.0 L) || 200 hp @ 5,200 rpm || 227 lb·ft @ 3,600 rpm
|}

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! colspan="4" | Engine internal specs
|-
! Engine !! Bore × Stroke !! Compression !! Configuration
|-
| VG30E || 87 mm × 83 mm || 9.0:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve
|-
| VG30ET || 87 mm × 83 mm || 7.8:1 || V6 SOHC 12-valve + IHI turbo
|}

=== Oil change ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! Filter !! Capacity (w/ filter) !! Recommended viscosity
|-
| VG30E || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|-
| VG30ET || Nissan 15208-43G00 (or equivalent) || 3.75 qt (3.6 L) || 10W-30 (factory) · 5W-30 acceptable
|}

* Change interval: every 3,000 mi (conventional) or 5,000 mi (synthetic)
* Drain plug torque: 22–29 lb·ft (29–39 N·m)

=== Transmission fluid ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Trans !! Type !! Capacity
|-
| FS5W71C (5-speed MT) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90 or 80W-90) || 2.5 qt (2.4 L)
|-
| RS5F50A (5-speed MT, 1988–89 N/A) || GL-4 MTF (75W-90) || 2.4 qt (2.3 L)
|-
| RE4W03A (4-speed AT) || Dexron II/III ATF || 7.4 qt total (3.2 qt service fill)
|}

=== Coolant ===

* System capacity: ~8.5 qt (8.1 L)
* Factory spec: 50/50 green ethylene-glycol coolant
* Thermostat opens: 82 °C (180 °F)

=== Spark plugs ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Engine !! OEM plug !! Gap
|-
| VG30E || NGK BKR5E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P15 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|-
| VG30ET || NGK BKR6E-11 / Nissan 22401-01P16 || 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
|}

=== Timing belt ===

* Replacement interval: 60,000 mi (96,000 km)
* See [[Z31/timingbelt|Timing belt replacement]] for full procedure

=== Tire sizes (stock) ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Year !! Front !! Rear
|-
| 1984–1985 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1986–1989 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|-
| 1987–1989 2+2 || 205/60R15 || 225/50R15
|}

* Factory rim: 15 × 6.5 JJ (front), 15 × 7.0 JJ (rear)

== Z31 reference ==

* [[Z31]] — Z31 hub page
* [[Z31/reference|Z31 reference index]] — full XenonZcar Z31 reference
* [[Z31/basics|Z31 basics]] · [[Z31/issues|Common issues & fixes]] · [[Z31/mods|Modifications]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm_php|Factory Service Manuals (FSM)]] · [[Z31/z31ownersmanuals_php|Owner's manuals]]
* [[Z31/Nuts and Bolts|Nuts & bolts — thread pitch, torque specs]]
* [[:Category:Imported from Xenonzcar|Browse all imported XenonZcar pages]]

== Related Z-car content ==

* [[S30]] — 240Z / 260Z / 280Z (1970–1978)
* [[S130]] — 280ZX (1979–1983), predecessor
* [[Z32]] — 300ZX (1990–2000), successor

== Forums ==

* [[Forums/Z31P|z31performance.com archive]] — Sept 2024 import, ~2762 threads organized by category
* [[Forums|Forums landing]] — all forum archives

== Static site archives ==

Browse the original sites as they appeared (untouched HTML mirrors):

* [https://dev.z31library.com/Z31performance_archive/ z31performance.com forum]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31.html xenonzcar.com (Z31 section)]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/z31info_archive/ z31.info (home only — see [[Z31info|imported content]])]

== Getting started ==

* [[Special:RecentChanges|Recent changes]] · [[Special:AllPages|All pages]] · [[Special:Categories|Categories]]

Template:Search

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[[Special:Search/{{{1|}}}|{{{1|}}}]]<noinclude>
Inline search link. Usage: {{Search|query term}}
[[Category:Templates]]
</noinclude>

Template:ForumImport

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<div style="border:1px solid #b0c4b0; background:#f0f4f0; padding:6px 10px; margin-bottom:8px; font-size:90%;">
'''Imported from Z31Performance.com Forums'''{{#if:{{{op_user|}}}| — original post by '''[https://www.z31performance.com/ {{{op_user}}}]'''}}{{#if:{{{op_date|}}}|, posted {{{op_date|}}}}}{{#if:{{{post_count|}}}| · {{{post_count}}} post{{#ifeq:{{{post_count}}}|1||s}}}}{{#if:{{{archive_url|}}}|<br>Local archive: [https://dev.z31library.com{{{archive_url}}} view archived thread on dev.z31library.com]}}
</div><noinclude>
Forum thread import attribution banner. Usage:
<pre>{{ForumImport|op_user=USERNAME|op_date=YYYY-MM-DD|post_count=N|archive_url=/Z31performance_archive/...}}</pre>
[[Category:Templates]]
</noinclude>

Template:Quote

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<div style="border-left:3px solid #aaa; background:#f8f8f8; padding:6px 12px; margin:4px 0 8px 20px;">
<div style="font-size:85%; color:#555; margin-bottom:2px;">'''{{#if:{{{user|}}}|{{{user}}} wrote:|Quote:}}'''</div>
{{{1|}}}
</div><noinclude>
Forum quote attribution block. Usage: {{Quote|user=USERNAME|Body text here.}}
[[Category:Templates]]
</noinclude>

Z32

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{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=The 1990-1999 Nissan Fairlady Z Z32|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

In 1989 Nissan replaced the Z31 chassis with the Z32. Production of the naturally aspirated versions began in the Spring, followed by the twin-turbo in the Fall. The Z32 was also titled 300ZX because engine displacement remained unchanged. However, since the engine had dual overhead cams, the engine code was revised to VG30DE. The twin-turbo model had the VG30DETT engine.

=== Style and Evolution ===

The Z32 chassis would likewise undergo several changes throughout its production run between 1989 and 2000. Among the milestone safety additions are the inclusion of standard driver and passenger-side airbags and true pillar-mount seat belts. The Z32's extended model year sales in 1990 reached 39,290 units.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32/images/cutawayred.jpg

=== Z32 Basics ===

Here you will find the most basic of Z32 information

* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32/basicterms.html Basic Terms used for the Z32]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32/buyerguide.html 300ZX Buyer’s Guide]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32/colorchart.html Color Chart]
* Deciphering your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)and other Model ID Plates - Coming soon
* Differential Specifications and Variations- Coming soon
* Drive Shaft Specifications and Differences
* ECU Differences - Coming soon
* Fuse and Relay Locations - Coming soon
* General Z32 Specifications< - Coming soon/li>
* General Z32 History - Coming soon
* Interior Differences - Coming soon
* Light Bulb Replacement Guide - Coming soon
* Model Variations - Coming soon
* Sensor Information - Coming soon
* Transmission Specs and General info - Coming soon
* Engine Specifications - Coming soon
* Wheel Specifications - Coming soon

* Bleeding Your Brakes - Coming soon
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z32/ATcodes.php Checking Automatic Transmission Fault Codes]
* Checking ECU Fault Codes - Coming soon
* Dashboard Removal - Coming soon
* Leather Seat Softening/Cleaning - Coming soon
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/Plugs.html Reading Your Spark Plugs]
* Replacing Your Fuel Filter - Coming soon
* Strut Replacement and Front Suspension Overhaul - Coming soon
* Testing the Automatic Climate Control Unit - Coming soon
* Wheel Stud Replacement - Coming soon

=== Modifications ===

=== Reference ===

[[Z32/fsm php|Factory Service Manuals]]
* Nissan Product Bulletins - Coming Soon

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/wheelstudreplacement php

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{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Wheel Stud Replacement|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/wheelstudreplacement.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/wheelstudreplacement.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Wheel Stud Replacement ==

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheelstudreplacement/step1.jpg

So, you go to take off your wheel to rotate your tires or change your brakes. You start to loosen the lug nuts and you hear SNAP and the lugnut falls off. You look and the wheel stud just broke off. Here is how you fix this.

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Items Needed ===

=== Parts & Tools Needed ===

-
Front Wheel Stud for 1984-1986 Non-turbo and turbo
(
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/page_product/searchbyname?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1988&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( Nissan part # 40222-Z31001]&keywords=40222-Z31001)) -
Front Wheel Stud for 1987-1989 Non-Turbo
(
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/page_product/searchbyname?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1988&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( Nissan part # 43222-Z31001]&keywords=43222-Z31001)) -
Front Wheel Stud for 1987-1989 Turbo
(
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/page_product/searchbyname?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1988&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( Nissan part # 43222-Z31005]&keywords=43222-Z31005)) -
Rear Wheel Stud
(
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/page_product/searchbyname?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1988&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( Nissan part # 43222-Z31006]&keywords=43222-Z31006)) - Lug wrench
* Jack
* Jackstands
* Ratchet set
* A few washers
-
Open ended Lug nut
(
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/page_product/searchbyname?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1988&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( Nissan Part # 40224-Z31001]&keywords=40224-Z31001)) - PB Blaster
* Hammer
* Punch

=== Rear Replacement ===

* Loosen the wheel lugs. Do not take them off yet.
* Jack the car up at the correct jacking point and secure the car on jackstands.
-
Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.

* Remove the 17mm bolts from the rear brake caliper and hang the caliper with a rope or wire, keeping the weight off the rubber brake line.
-
Pull off the rear brake rotor. If it is stuck, tap it loose with a rubber mallet.

-
Using a hammer and punch, knock the broken stud out of the stub axle from the front to rear.

-
Install the new stud from the rear of the stub axle. Use a nut to pull the stud into the stub axle to the correct location.

* Reinstall the wheel and lower the car.

=== Front Replacement ===

The front studs are also fairly easy to replace. To replace them, follow the following steps.

* Loosen the wheel lugs. Do not take them off yet.
* Jack the car up at the correct jacking point and secure the car on jackstands.
* Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
-
Remove the 17mm bolts from the brake caliper and hang the caliper with a rope or wire, keeping the weight off the rubber brake line.

-
Remove the hub dust cap, cotter pin, and then remove the hub spindle nut.

-
Remove the hub assembly and take it to a workbench.

-
Using a hammer and punch, knock the broken stud out of the hub from the front to rear.

1984-1986 style front hub shown
* Install the new stud from the rear of the hub. Use a nut to pull the stud into the hub to the correct location.
* Check your bearings while you have the hub off and repack with grease if needed.
* Reinstall the hub onto the spindle and torque the hub nut to 18 to 22 ft-lbs.
* Reinstall the wheel and lower the car.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Write up by: Redare

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/warninglamps php

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{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Dash Warning Lamps|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/warninglamps.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/warninglamps.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Dash Warning Lamps ==

Here you will find information on the Dash Warning Lamps and what they mean.

=== Lamp Chart ===

| Image | Lamp Name | Description |
|---|---|---|

Charging System | This light usually means the alternator is not charging correctly. When this happens a few of the other lights come on at the same time. Simply replace the alternator. Be sure you have the auto parts store test the old alternator first and the new one before you leave the store as many are DOA. The voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. |

Brake System | When this light is on, the fluid level in the master cylinder is low. This usually happens around the time you need new brake pads... [rest of description as in your text] |

Cooling System | When this light is on the Coolant level in the overflow bottle is low. Fill the overflow bottle with coolant. If you have coolant in the bottle, the switch is stuck. Remove the whole overflow bottle and clean with some CLR (calcium, lime, rust) remover. |

Door Warning | When this light is on one of the doors is open. It could be either driver or passenger door or the rear hatch. If all are closed the door switch may be broken. |

O2 sensor | This Lamp comes on every 30,000 miles. Check and replace (if needed) the oxygen sensor. Then reset the sensor light.
To reset: Drop the glovebox door by pressing in the sides, remove screws, and locate the relay above the glovebox frame. Press the rubber-covered button to reset. After 90,000 miles, disconnect the sensor light wire below the steering wheel.
|

Fuel Warning | When this lamp is on the fuel level is low. This light usually comes on with about 3 to 5 gallons of gas left in the 19 gallon tank. |

Lighting System 86+ | When this light is on, one of either Head lamps, Brake lamps, or Tail lamps are out. Replace burnt out lamp. If all are functioning, check tail light/headlamp sensors. |

Head Lamp 84-85 | When this light is on, one of the Head lamps is out, Replace lamp. If both head lights are functioning, check the head light sensor. |

Tail Lamp 84-85 | When this light is on, one of the Tail lamps or brake lamps is out, Replace lamp. If all are functioning, check the tail light sensor. |

Oil Pressure | When this lamp is on, the oil pressure is reading low. This can happen if oil level is low or the Oil pressure sending unit harness gets disconnected. The sending unit is also known to go bad, giving false readings. |

Seatbelt Warning | This flashes for a few seconds when you first turn the car on to remind you to fasten your seat belt. |

Washer Level | When this lamp is on, the windshield washer fluid is low. If the fluid is full the sensor can be stuck. Clean again with CLR. |

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31ownersmanuals php|1984-1989 Nissan Owners manuals]]
* Lamp Images by: Paul Hillman (AZ-ZBUM)

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/voicewarningsystem php

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{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Voice Warning System|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/voicewarningsystem.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/voicewarningsystem.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Voice Warning System ==

In 1983, the Nissan 200ZG and 300ZX models received a voice warning system, which ran through the 1986 model year. In the US market, it was available only in 1984–1986 GL and GLL models. SF models in Canada and all 1987–1989 Z31s did not have the voice warning system.

The system works by stopping the signal going to the front left speaker(s) and replacing it with a signal of its own. As long as the stock wiring to the front speakers is still connected, the voice warning system will function. It does not use the amp or head unit for power. The voice warning unit is located above and behind the ECU in the passenger kick panel, hidden by insulation.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/TCU/TCUDiagram.jpg

=== USDM Voice Warning Messages ===

The voice warning system has five (5) different messages. They are as follows:

| Message | Reason For Warning |
|---|---|
| Left door is open |
This message will play when you are moving more than 3mph and the left door is open. This message will also play when the trunk lock sensor has come loose or fallen off. |
| Right door is open | This message will play when you are moving more than 3mph and the right door is open. |
| Lights are on | This message will play when the car is off, the marker lights are on, and the left door is open. |
| Fuel level is low | This message is played if the low fuel light has been on for about 30 seconds. It is repeated two or three times and then no longer sounds until the car has been restarted or the light has been off for more than a few seconds. |
| Parking brake is on | This message will play if the parking brake has been pulled up enough to turn on the instrument cluster warning light and the car is moving more than a few miles per hour. This message will continue to play until the parking brake has been pushed all the way down and the light has turned off. It will not play if the warning light comes on because of low brake fluid in the master cylinder. |

=== Common Repairs ===

The only real problem people run into with this system is when it says the left door is open and it clearly is not. First, ensure the left door light is not on and none of the dome or floor lights are on.

* Remove spare tire cover via the two plastic screws.
* Remove tail light cover via the four plastic retainers (1/4 turn each).
* Look for the lock cylinder sensor (see fig.1).
* Reattach it to the lock cylinder (see fig.2).
* If the warning system still won't be quiet, unplug the unit to test (see fig.3).

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Written by: Paul Hillman (AZ-ZBUM)
* Video by:
[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEYkrd9E80mUlvA8Fzr7lXg VICNASTY1989]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/vlsdInstall php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Hybrid VLSD Install|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/vlsdInstall.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/vlsdInstall.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Hybrid VLSD Install ==

Here is the write-up for equipping your Z31 with a Viscous Limited Slip Differential using hybrid half shafts written by Z31performance forum member Mike_Gruizinga. This write-up describes five ways for the budget-minded DIY’er to build hybrid half shafts to fit the Z31. The write-up consists of two basic parts. One part gives information on swapping the VLSD carrier into the R200 Long-Nose differential housing. The other part gives information on assembling the hybrid half shafts needed to complete the installation. I recommend reading the entire write-up before even thinking about starting this swap.

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Addendums ===

* If the hybrid axles are made using methods 1, 4, or 5, they will be a bit longer than the original Z31 axles and a very tight fit. This is due to the additional length from the inner CV joints and VLSD input shafts. There are a couple ways to help fix this problem. The first two options are good, but I highly suggest the third option if you want the job done right.
* If you are using T-T axles, cut down the positioning springs at the ends of the joints.
* If you are using BDO axles, turn the outer races of the CV joint around.
-
Using either CV joint, bring the inner race (BDO) or spider assembly (T-T) about
'''1.5 inches closer'''to the center of the shaft and weld it into place, making 100% sure that the moved item is centered on the shaft.

It is a good idea to chamfer the welding areas to get deep, strong, and clean welds. Cut the remaining shaft material from the end.

This will require delicate grinding and welding, but it can be done correctly and effectively. I did mine with an angle grinder and a MIG welder.

=== PART I ===

Since most R200V differentials are short-nosed (unless you have the '88SS R200V), you will need to swap their internals into your Z31 long-nose housing.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/casedifferencefull.png

The process of swapping the VLSD carrier into the Z31 housing is simple and has been outlined before. Bemis’ webpage has some excellent information on this swap:
[http://www.zrelated.com/VLSD.htm zrelated.com/VLSD.htm]

Follow your FSM for removal and installation procedures. The swap consists of installing your Z31 ring gear onto the VLSD carrier and then installing the VLSD carrier into your differential housing. Be sure to get the differential shimmed correctly—getting it wrong means noise and excessive wear. If you don’t know what you’re doing, take the differential to a qualified driveline shop.

I decided to disassemble everything and clean before reassembly. New gaskets and seals were installed where necessary. Here are a few pictures of the process:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Shortcaseinsidefull.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Ringoutfull.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Internalsfull.png

=== Assembling the Differential ===

I decided to shim my VLSD while I had it apart. I installed one extra standard ('''0.80mm''') size shim.
Here is a list of the available shim sizes. Each costs about $6.00:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Shims.png

There are several (about 10) large bolts holding the crown wheel on. To remove these I'd recommend a decent vice and large prybar, or an air gun will work as well.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/ringremoval.png

Once the crownwheel is off, you will see two large Phillips head screws. Remove these and off comes the viscous center.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Philips.png

Pry the two pieces apart (where you have unscrewed) and you'll end up with this:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/gears.png

Now pull apart and you will see a washer sitting on a flat surface. That's your original preload shim. See below for a rough indication of what it looks like in new form.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/oldshim.png

See below for a rough indication of what it looks like in new form.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/newone.png

The original plan was to double the shim thickness and put more load on the viscous center, 'reviving' it to how an LSD should be. If you're like me, 1 extra shim just isn't enough for drifting (it is great for everyday driving, however). So go on, be a devil and add 2 extra ones if it's mainly for drifting.

* Add 1 new shim to the existing one (total of 2) for a decent, predictable LSD for driving that spins up both wheels with ease—comparable to a brand new viscous diff.
* Add 2 extra preload shims to the existing one (total of 3) for a very solid diff that's very tight but not quite locked (comparable to a Kaaz 1.5 way mechanical LSD).

This splines the two different splined parts of the diff center together so that when you go to insert the diff stubs at the end, they'll actually fit (easiest way to explain it).

Also, pour new diff oil back in before you put the backing plate on. Hopefully the gasket is still good—if not, use some high temp silicone to seal it before you bolt it up so it doesn't leak everywhere.

More info on how that turned out at the end of this write-up.

=== PART II ===

=== Assembling Hybrid Half Shafts ===

Let’s start with some basic information.

Z31 NA cars came with Tripod-Tripod half shafts, 6-bolt axle stub companion flanges, and an open differential with either a 3.7:1 ratio (’84–’87) or a 3.9:1 ratio (’88–’89).

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/tripodtripod.png

Z31 Turbo cars came equipped with Birfield-Double Offset (BDO) half shafts, 4-bolt axle stub companion flanges, and either:

* Open differential (’84–’86) with 3.54:1 ratio
* Clutch type LSD with 3.7:1 ratio (’87–’89)
* Viscous type LSD with 3.7:1 ratio (’88SS edition)

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/BDO.png

’92 to Early ’94 J30s: Birfield-Double Offset (BDO) half shafts, 5-bolt flanges, and VLSD with a 3.916 ratio.

Late ’94 to ’96 J30s: Tripod-Tripod half shafts, 6-bolt flanges, and VLSD with a 3.916 ratio.

The R200V (VLSD) can also be found in NA Z32s, ’97–’01 Q45s, and some 240SXs. (Half shafts and ratios for these applications can be found in their respective FSMs.)

There are several ways to make your own hybrid VLSD half shafts. Due to time and cost constraints, I could only attempt one way. Lucky for you, fellow Z31performance members 88SinZ and Bemis shared information on their methods. A big thank you to 88SinZ for Method 1, and to Bemis for Methods 2–4.

=== Method 1 ===

The first way is to combine the Z31 NA half shafts and the Late '94–'96 J30 half shafts. The diff side CV is removed from the J30 half shaft and installed onto the diff side of the Z31 half shaft. Both Bemis and 88SinZ have completed this method. While 88SinZ has successfully installed these into his '88 NA rear end, he suggests using ’84–’86 companion flanges (10mm shorter) for a bit of additional room.

==== J30 Tripod Shaft Disassembly ====

* Remove retaining covers — save cap and spring(s).
* Remove C-clip from passenger side of J30 shaft (the right tool really helps).
* Remove spider assembly (wrap a hammer in a towel or use a rubber mallet).
* Remove diff side boots and housing sub-assemblies.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/J30Tripodsetup3.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/J30Tripodsetup.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/J30Tripodsetup2.jpg

==== Z31 Tripod Shafts ====

* Snip & remove diff side CV boot.
* Slide the sub-assembly away from the spider assembly.
* Remove C-clip from diff side of shaft.
* Remove spider assembly.

==== The Tripod Hybrid – Reassembly ====

* Slide J30's diff side sub-assembly onto the Z31 shaft.
* Reconnect boot, reclamp.
* Re-install spider assembly.
* Re-install C-clip.
* Pack with grease.
* Re-install cap and spring.
* Enjoy your LSD!

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/J30Tripodsetup4.jpg

=== Method 2 ===

The second way to make hybrid axles is to use the 1988 SS VLSD axle rebuild kits offered from Nissan. There are two rebuild axles, one for each side. These are no longer available (NLA) from Nissan, but that doesn't mean they aren't sitting in some warehouse collecting dust.

These hybrid axles are made by using Z31 turbo BDO axles. All you need to do is remove the existing outer CV joint on the original axle and fit it onto the 1988 SS rebuild axles. Now you have VLSD axles.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/VLSD1.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/VLSD2.png

=== Method 3 ===

The third way to make hybrid VLSD axles for the Z31 is to purchase the original VLSD axle with the longer spline design, then have an original Z31 turbo axle machined to match the shorter spline design.
It has to be done this way because you can always take away metal, but you can’t add it.
The original SS axles are no longer available ('''NLA''') from Nissan, so good hunting!

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method-3part1.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method-3part2.png

=== Method 4 ===

The fourth way to make hybrid VLSD axles—this being the most determined and bold method—is to once again use Z31 and J30 axles.

Let’s say you have an original NA Z31 (with T-T axles and 3x2 bolt hub companion flanges), and you get a J30 VLSD with BDO axles. Technically, to make this work, you’d need Z31 turbo half shafts and 4-bolt hub companion flanges. But, if you can’t find any 4-bolt hub flanges locally and don’t want to swap, you can marry the two axles together:

Remove the inner CV joint from the Z31 NA half shaft and join the inner J30 CV joint on the axle—by welding the inner race onto the shaft. Move the inner race about 1.5 inches closer to the center of the shaft to compensate for the length added by the J30 input shaft.

Now you have a VLSD hybrid axle that bolts up to the Z31 NA hub companion flange and connects to the 5-bolt input shaft of the J30 VLSD.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method4-part-1.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method4-part-2.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method4-part-3.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method4-part-4.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/Method4-part-5.png

=== Method 5 ===

The fifth way is to combine the Z31 Turbo half shafts (BDO type) and the '92–early '94 J30 half shafts (BDO type). Once again, the diff side CV is removed from the J30 half shaft, and installed onto the diff side of the Z31 half shaft.

This is the method I chose for my hybrid half shaft assembly. My VLSD was pulled from a '93 J30, but I have an '87 NA2T, meaning I needed Z31 Turbo half shafts and 4-bolt axle stub companion flanges. Note: it would have been easier to use the late '94–96 J30 half shafts and follow method 1, but I made do with what I could get.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/1.jpg

==== Parts List (for my application) ====

* 1993 J30 Differential
* 1993 J30 Half shafts
* 1984 300ZX Turbo half shafts
* 1984 300ZX Turbo Companion flanges
* CV boots (Z31 and J30)
* CV clamps
* Valvoline Synthetic CV grease
* VLSD Shim /
[http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/washer-thrustside-gear-p-352347.html Part #38424-40F60](.80mm) - 1987 300ZX Differential seals (all seals/gaskets)

==== Specialty Tools ====

* Big 3/4” impact + Air
* Slide hammer / axle stub puller
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/3.jpg Stop ring pliers]
* Dial Indicator
* Vernier Calipers

=== The Process ===

Here’s a look at the types of retaining rings you’ll run into with BDO half shafts:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/2.jpg

On the left is a stop ring (retains the inner race from sliding inward, best removed with stop ring pliers). The big ring in the middle retains the slide joint housing. The small middle ring is a compression ring (retains the stock Z31 turbo inner CV). The ring on the right is a snap ring (retains the Z31 turbo outer CV and the J30 inner CV from sliding off the half shaft; best removed with snap ring pliers).

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/3.jpg

'''Disassemble the diff side CV of the Z31 half shaft:''' BDO half shafts are simple. First remove the CV boot and clean off all the grease. The diff side CV is held on by a compression style ring. Knock the CV solidly on its inner race with a big hammer. This compresses the ring and allows the CV to slide off the shaft’s splines.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/4.jpg

'''While you’re at it:''' Remove the wheel side CV for cleaning and greasing. In the end, you’ll need to turn the cage around to shorten the shaft—this is shown later.

'''J30 diff side:''' Remove the CV boot and clean the grease. Remove the big snap ring from the slide joint housing with a screwdriver, slide the slide joint housing off, and then remove the snap ring from the splined shaft with snap ring pliers. Slide the cage/ball/race assembly off. Remove the stop ring with the correct pliers.

'''Assembly:''' Slide the J30 diff side cage/ball/race assembly onto the diff side of the Z31 half shaft and reassemble everything. BUT WAIT! The outer snap ring groove will not be visible!

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/5.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/6.jpg

'''Solution:''' Mill new snap ring grooves into your Z31 half shaft (anyone with a 3 jaw lathe can do this). My neighbor helped. The stock shaft is on top; the newly milled shaft is on the bottom:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/7.jpg

'''Once machining is done:''' Install the J30 boot, stop ring, cage, inner race, and snap ring onto your newly milled shaft (diff side).

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/8.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/9.jpg

'''Pack with grease:''' The Z31 housing (right) takes 4–6 oz; the J30 housing (left) takes 6–8 oz. A Dixie cup holds 5 oz. Test fit axles before filling with grease!

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/12.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/10.jpg

'''Assemble both CV joints onto the half shaft.''' (The pictures below show the cage in the OEM position.)

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/14.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/15.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/16.jpg

'''Install the half shafts into the rear subframe assembly.''' This may take a few tries to figure out what works. Besides turning the cages around, note the difference in companion flange lengths:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/18.jpg

As you can see, 87–89 companion flanges are 10mm longer than 84–86 flanges. I used the 84–86 flanges for my setup to provide the needed room for the hybrid half shafts. Even with the extra 10mm, the shafts were a tight fit!

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/VLSDinstall/17.jpg

=== Results ===

After a few weeks of testing this setup, I am very happy with the results. Having a limited slip differential makes the car a whole different machine. It’s much more predictable in hard cornering situations and hooks up much better under hard acceleration.

-
Differential noise: Between 45 and 55 MPH a howling sound resonates through the cabin. I attribute this to my backlash setting between the pinion and ring gears. I set the backlash to
'''.009”'''(FSM recommends .005”–.007”). New polyurethane crossmember bushings and diff mount may also contribute. After some break-in, the diff has quieted down a bit. - Shimmed viscous unit: I installed an extra standard-sized (.80mm) shim. At first, the diff was very tight—wheel hop and clunking on sharp corners. After some drag strip runs and more abuse, it loosened up. No more hop/clunks and it remains quick to lock up—actually very predictable.

Overall, I am very happy with the results of this swap.

I believe these methods are among the cheapest and best for attaining LSD capabilities in a Z31. By using junkyard parts, I performed this swap for less than $125.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Provided by: Mike Gruizinga
* Method 1 images by: 88sinZ
* Bemis Provided the information and images for the VLSD shim install, and the pictures and description for methods 2-4. He also wrote the addendums section.

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/turboswap

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 2 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=XenonZcar.com - Z31 VG30E to VG30ET swap list|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/turboswap.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/turboswap.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

'''XenonZcar.com - Z31 VG30E to VG30ET swap list'''

This question comes up so many times every week we might as well address it here. "I bought a Non turbo Z and I want to go faster. How can I make it faster for cheap?" Well By doing a turbo swap or adding a turbo to your Non turbo engine is the quickest and cheapest way to make power. A setup using the stock Z31 components with a boost controller can net you 300hp plus.

To begin with you should have already located a parts car or all the parts for a turbo conversion, this alone can be a challenge. Needed for converting an N/A car to turbo are the following parts from an 84-87 turbo Z31 if using a t3 turbo or 88-89 when using the t25 turbo

== Main Parts List ==

[Drivers side exhaust manifold](images/Turbo sw/maniflds.jpg)- Down pipe
[Front cross member](images/Turbo sw/xmembers.jpg)[Drivers side engine mount bracket (bolts to block)](images/Turbo sw/Driverssidemount.jpg)[All intake piping (from Airflow meter to Throttle body](images/Turbo sw/intake.gif))[Turbo](images/Turbo sw/T3andT25.jpg)- Oil pan - Turbo Pan as a bung for the turbo oil return
* Turbo oil lines (and water lines if applicable) - 84 turbos did not have water cooling
[Fuel injectors](images/Fuel Injectors/SideFeed.jpg)(260cc/min instead of 180cc/min)- Two styles depending on Lower Intake manifold- Correct ECU to match the injectors and O2 Sensor you are going to run
* All applicable gaskets and Fasteners. You will likely break some and likely it will be the exhaust manifold studs. They are 8mm x 1.25 pitch in size and you can get Replacements from Dorman

Note: If you are turbo charging a 84-86 non turbo you will also need the Alternator mount, tensioner (and longer belt for application because the alternator mounts on pass. side instead of drivers side)

Note II: If using a [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.z31online.com/ Pucker Factory Turbo Relocation Pipe] you will not need the Crossmember or the intake piping as you will need to plumb the turbo with custom pipes. You also will lose the Air Conditioner Compressor.

It is recommended to remove your engine to do this swap as the Crossmember and driver side exhaust manifold need to be swapped. This is not easily done inside the engine bay but can be done with alot of effort.

== Fuel System and ECU ==

''''''''Warning No not try to run a turbo on a Non turbo fuel system as the Fuel maps and injector sizing are configured way too lean for a turbocharged application''''''''

First thing you need to do is to relive fuel pressure from the fuel system. easiest way is to disconnect the connector under the hatch carpet to the fuel pump and then crank the car until it does not fire.

You can now remove the full air Intake from your Z from the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor to the lower intake manifold. This includes the upper intake plenum and throttle body. Make sure you are careful when removing the upper plenum as there are two coolant lines that attach from the lower intake to the upper plenum. One on the Right (US Passenger) side near the rear of the intake and the other to the throttle body.

Being careful, disconnect all the wiring harnesses from the different sensors on the plenum (IAC, EGR solenoid, TPS, AAC, etc). Mark and label the connectors and vacuum lines as you go.

You will likely need to remove the EGR valve from the intake plenum as it is likely the EGR tube will be frozen and not want to budge. Heating it may help break it free if you do plan on disconnecting the tube from the EGR valve or exhaust manifold.

The upper plenum is held to the lower manifold by 5 hex head bolts under the plenum cover.

Once you have the upper plenum out of the way you can see the fuel injectors. Before doing anything take some rags or tape and fill or cover the intake manifold openings to protect it from collecting anything. Now you can Unclip the fuel injector clips with a pick and pull the connectors off each injector. **Note: Now would be a good time to [[Z31/Rewirefuelinjectors php|rewire the injector harness to factory specs]] as you will notice the injectors all piggy back off one lead per side.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Turbo%20sw/injectorsmanifold.jpg

Now that the wiring is out of the way you can remove the Fuel lines from the fuel rail and the FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator and unbolt the two 10mm bolts that hold the regulator onto the lower intake manifold. With this disconnected you can remove the phillips screws that hold the injector hold downs to the manifold and carefully lift the whole rail off the lower intake manifold.

Installation of the turbo injectors are the reverse of removal.

Since you upgraded the injectors to turbo 260cc units you now need to swap the ECU out as well so the fuel injectors and fuel maps match. This is easily done just by swapping the ECU behind right (US Passenger) side kick panel. It is held in by a few 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and disconnect the connectors. Installation of the Turbo ECU is reverse of removal.

== Making room For the Turbo - Crossmember replacement ==

Replacement of the Front Crossmember is needed if you are not planning on using a turbo Relocation pipe listed above as the turbo sits where the Non turbo left motor mount is located. This is easily done by jacking the car up along the frame rails with the engine removed and then supporting it with jack stands. Next you can remove the four(4) 10mm bolts that hold the power steering and AC lines to the crossmember.

Once these are removed you can disconnect the control arms by removing the 22mm nut and bolt holding them to the crossmember. These could be tight or seized in the control arm bushing so you make need to use some penetrating oil on them.

Now that the control arms are disconnected you can disconnect the steering rack mounts by removing the four(4) 14mm Bolts holding the straps to the crossmember. Make sure you do not mix up the sides as they are different for the shape of the rack bushings.

Finally secure the steering rack on a jack stand so it does not move and then remove the four(4) 17mm nuts holding the crossmember to the chassis of the Z31.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Turbo%20sw/crossmemberbolts.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Turbo%20sw/crossmembers.jpg

== Oil Pan and Oil Feed ==

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Turbo%20sw/oilpan.jpg

You will need to swap over to a Turbo Oil pan or add a bung on the side of the non turbo oil pan for the turbo oil return. To remove the oil pan, With the engine supported on an engine hoist or stand, Remove the Dip Stick and drain all oil from the engine and then remove the 10mm bolts on the outside edge of the pan. Once all bolts are removed you can use a flat screw driver to break the gasket seal and the pan should come off easily. Just replace with the turbo or modified Oil pan using a new Gasket. Please remember, 08/84-01/87 models use a full oil pan gasket and the later 87 and up models us a 2 piece gasket and black RTV sealant to seal the pan to the engine.

''''''''WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL THE DIP STICK BEFORE INSTALLING THE OIL PAN''''''''

The Z31 oil pan has a guide built in for the dip stick to guide it to the correct location in the sump. If you do not remove the Dip stick before installing the oil pan you will bend the dip stick and it will chewed up by the crankshaft counterweights. This is not good as you will have shards of metal in your oil and it can and will damage your engine.

Now you can remove the plug in the lower front on the drivers side of the engine block. This is where your turbo oil supply line is attached using two crush washers and a banjo bolt. the oil feed line will then bolt right up to the block with the bracket.

You can now also move the driver side engine mount to the turbo location at the front of the left (US Driver) Side Block. You will see two holes just above the oil feed hole you unplugged.

== Exhaust Manifolds ==

Now lets move onto the exhaust manifold as this is the second most needed item to complete the turbo swap. The best thing to do is to use penetrating oil on each Left (US Driver) Side manifold stud and nut to break the bond the rust has on the nut. This Also applies to the two bolts and one stud on the crossover pipe. I know alot of times some of the studs are broken and you will have to remove the broken stud from the head. If this is the case I have had good luck using a reverse drillbit or easy out kit. I usually end up replacing all the studs anyway with the larger 10mm x 1.25 studs by drilling and tapping the heads for the larger studs used on the VG33E Engines Nissan produced.

Once you have the Non Turbo Manifold removed you will notice is the Non turbo placement of Manifold studs differs from the turbo version. Good thing Nissan did drill and tap the heads for the turbo exhaust manifold as well. All you need to do is remove and swap the studs into the correct location.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Turbo%20sw/manifoldstuds.jpg

I recommend using a Victor/Raines brand Exhaust manifold gasket as they are Mult-ilayer steel units. They will hold up better than the fiber type gasket.

So now you have the exhaust manifold installed you can then bolt on the turbo to the manifold. This is also the time you want to install the turbo oil drain as it's easier as you are installing the turbocharger to the manifold. Once the turbo is mounted go and connect the oil feed line on the top of the turbo housing and finally if you are using a water cooled turbo you can attach those lines and plumb them up to the locations at the throttle body and manifold.

== Engine Installation and Finishing ==

Go ahead now and install the engine using an engine lift and bolt the mounts into the new locations on the crossmember. You can then start reconnecting all the wiring, Coolant lines, Heater lines, then install the upper plenum. At this point you have some choices to make like if you are going to run the stock Intake pipes or fabricate an intercooler setup. Also you will need to choose how to complete your exhaust as now the exhaust ends at the turbo elbow. As for exhaust You can contact [https://cmperformanceexhaust.com/ CM Performance Exhaust] and order a kit that bolts right in or fabricate, or even take the car to a local exhaust shop to make a system for you.

Now Fill the engine with fluids (Oil, Coolant) and you should be able to fire it up. You also may need to Make a small change in the [[Z31/IACwiring php|idle control wiring]] if you have issues with idle.

== Final Information ==

There are always a few things that usually are asked when doing this type of swap, I will try to answer them here.

* Will This hurt my Non turbo Motor? Short answer No, as long as you keep boost to reasonable levels with the setup you do you should not have any issues.
* How much horsepower will I make? This will all vary on how you complete the installation. Stock turbo cars made "200hp" at the crank but with the added compression of the NA motor you will likely see more gains especially in the lower RPM band.
* How much boost can I run? Again this will depend on your setup. If you use all the stock plumbing and no intercooler I would not run more than the stock boost level of 8psi on the T3 turbo as this is where the stock wastegate is sprung for. Adding a boost controller is not recommended unless you add an intercooler and then 15psi would be about max on the stock T3 unit.
* Will My Car be legal? As long as you build the car to meet your local emissions laws you wouldn't have any issues with being legal. Remember these cars all fall under the classic car status so many places do not require emissions any more.
* Can I run AC and install a intercooler? this all depends on if you can fabricate. If so you can route the plumbing out of the way of the AC compressor and have the best of both worlds Like the Spearco Intercooler system was designed.

== Sources used on this page: ==

* Written By: Joseph Melnick (XenonZcar)
* Manifold Stud Image from: Redz31.net

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/transmissions php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Transmission Specifications and Variations|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/transmissions.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/transmissions.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Transmission Specifications and Variations ==

The Z31 came with three different manual 5 speed transmissions and 2 different Automatics.

=== Manual Transmission Specifications ===

The Z31 came with three different manual 5 speed transmissions. All manual non-turbos used a 5 speed Nissan transmission (FS5W71C) which is quite reliable. The 84-86 manual turbos used a Borg-Warner T-5 5 speed (FS5R90A). The 87-89 manual turbo transmissions are a Nissan made (FS5R30A) model. Internally, they are the same as the Nissan transmission found in z32 turbos, trucks, pathfinders, etc. The 1987 model FS5R30A has a little different gear set than the 1988 and 1989.'''Non-turbo (All Years):'''FS5W71C (Nissan 5-speed, highly reliable)'''Turbo 1984-1986:'''FS5R90A (Borg-Warner T-5 5-speed)'''Turbo 1987-1989:'''FS5R30A (Nissan 5-speed, shared with Z32 turbos, trucks, Pathfinders, etc.)- 1987 model has a unique gear set
* 1988–1989 models use a different ratio

All Z31 manual transmissions have synchros on every forward gear. Change your gear oil regularly, and these boxes will last for years without trouble!

=== Manual Transmission Gear Ratios ===

| 1984-1989 Non Turbo FS5W71C |
1984-1986 Turbo FS5R90A |
1987 Turbo FS5R30A |
1988-1989 Turbo FS5R30A |
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
1st Gear |
3.321 | 3.350 | 3.324 | 3.324 |
2nd Gear |
1.902 | 2.056 | 2.077 | 2.077 |
3rd Gear |
1.308 | 1.376 | 1.360 | 1.360 |
4th Gear |
1.000 | 1.000 | 1.000 | 1.000 |
5th Gear |
0.759 | 0.752 | 0.751 | 0.711 |
Reverse |
3.636 | 3.153 | 3.382 | 3.382 |

=== Manual Transmission Fluids and Levels ===

| Transmission Model | Model Z31 | Fluid Capacity | Fluid Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| FS5W71C | 1984 - 1989 Non Turbo | 4-1/4 pt | API GL-4 |
| FS5R90A | 1984 - 1986 Turbo | 4 pt |
API GL-4 (SAE 80W-90) or type DEXRON |
| FS5R30A | 1987 - 1989 Turbo | 5-1/8 pt | API GL-4 |

=== Manual Transmission Weight ===

| 1986-1989 Non Turbo FS5W71C |
1984-1986 Turbo T-5 FS5R90A |
1987-1989 Turbo FS5R30A |
|---|---|---|
| 94 lbs (No fluid, clutch fork, throwout bearing, or shifter) | 102.2 lbs (with throwout bearing & all switches; shifter removed) | Unknown |

=== Automatic Specifications ===

The Z31 was offered with 4 different Jatco automatic transmissions. All are the '''4N71B''' model. 1985-1989 models feature an electronic lockup function and these car called the E4N71B. The main difference between all these models are with the number of clutches depending on the use with Turbo models having more clutches in them for higher power holding.

These transmissions are based on the light-duty L4N71B model previously used in the Datsun 810. The E4N71B allows lockup in all forward gears, using a microprocessor to electronically control the torque converter lockup.

The overdrive switch in these automatics includes a temperature sensor, preventing the transmission from shifting into overdrive until the fluid is sufficiently warmed up. This helps to avoid possible damage from cold shifts.

[http://www.levelten.com Level 10] used to make an upgrade kit for these transmissions that could handle 500+ hp, but it is no longer available.

=== Automatic Gear Ratios ===

| 4N71B | E4N71B | |
|---|---|---|
1st Gear |
2.458 | 2.458 |
2nd Gear |
1.458 | 1.458 |
3rd Gear |
1.000 | 1.000 |
4th Gear |
0.686 | 0.686 |
Reverse |
2.182 | 2.400 |

=== Automatic Transmission Fluids and Levels ===

| E4N71B | 4N71B | |
|---|---|---|
| Fluid Type | Auto Trans DEXRON | Auto Trans DEXRON |
| Capacity | 7-3/8 qt | 7-3/8 qt |

=== Specifications And Adjustments ===

| Transmission Model Code | X8075 | X8006 |
|---|---|---|
| Stamp Mark on Torque Converter | GK | GC |
| Direct Clutch Specs | ||
| Number Of Drive Plates | 2 | 3 |
| Number Of Driven Plates | 2 | 3 |
| Clearance mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 1.6 - 1.8 (0.063 - 0.071) | |
| Allowable Limit | 2.0 (0.079) | 2.2 (0.087) |
| Drive Plate Thickness mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 1.50 - 1.65 (0.0591 - 0.0650) | |
| Allowable Limit | 1.4 (0.055) |

| Thickness of Retaining Plates |
X8075 | X8006 | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thickness mm (in) | Part Number | Thickness mm (in) | Part Number | |
| 5.6 (0.220) | 31567-X2903 | 5.8 (0.220) | 31567-X2904 | |
| 5.8 (0.220) | 31567-X2904 | 6.0 (0.220) | 31567-X2905 | |
| 6.0 (0.220) | 31567-X2905 | 6.2 (0.220) | 31567-X2906 | |
| 6.2 (0.220) | 31567-X2906 | 6.4 (0.220) | 31507-X8600 | |
| 6.4 (0.220) | 31507-X8600 | 6.6 (0.220) | 31507-X8601 | |
| 6.6 (0.220) | 31507-X8601 | 6.8 (0.220) | 31537-X2800 | |
| 6.8 (0.220) | 31537-X2800 | 7.0 (0.220) | 31537-X2801 | |
| 7.0 (0.220) | 31537-X2801 | 7.2 (0.283) | 31537-X0900 | |
| 7.4 (0.291) | 31537-X0901 |

| High Reverse Clutch (Front) | ||
|---|---|---|
| Number Of Drive Plates | 3 | 4 |
| Number Of Driven Plates | 5 | 5 |
| Clearance mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 1.6 - 1.8 (0.063 - 0.071) | |
| Allowable Limit | 2.2 (0.087) | 2.4 (0.094) |
| Drive Plate Thickness mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 1.50 - 1.65 (0.0591 - 0.0650) | |
| Allowable Limit | 1.4 (0.055) |

| Thickness of Retaining Plates | X8075 | X8006 | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thickness mm (in) | Part Number | Thickness mm (in) | Part Number | |
| 5.0 (0.197) | 31567-X2900 | 5.0 (0.197) | 31567-X2900 | |
| 5.2 (0.205) | 31567-X2901 | 5.2 (0.205) | 31567-X2901 | |
| 5.4 (0.213) | 31567-X2902 | 5.4 (0.213) | 31567-X2902 | |
| 5.6 (0.220) | 31567-X2903 | 5.6 (0.220) | 31567-X2903 | |
| 5.8 (0.228) | 31567-X2904 | 5.8 (0.228) | 31567-X2904 | |
| 6.0 (0.236) | 31567-X2905 | 6.0 (0.236) | 31567-X2905 | |
| 6.2 (0.244) | 31567-X2906 |

| Forward Clutch (Rear) | X8075 | X8006 |
|---|---|---|
| Number of Drive Plates | 6 | 6 |
| Number of Driven Plates | 6 | 6 |
| Clearance mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 0.8 - 1.5 (0.031 - 0.059) | |
| Allowable Limit | 2.0 (0.079) | |
| Drive Plate Thickness mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 1.50 - 1.65 (0.0591 - 0.0650) | |
| Allowable Thickness | 1.4 (0.055) | |
| Thickness Of Retaining Plate | Thickness mm (in) | Part Number |
| 4.8 (0.189) | 31567-X0300 |

| Low & Reverse Brake | X8075 | X8006 |
|---|---|---|
| Number Of Drive Plates | 6 | 7 |
| Number Of Driven Plates | 6 | 7 |
| Clearance mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 0.80 - 1.05 (0.0315 - 0.0413) | |
| Allowable Limit | 2.0 (0.079) | 2.2 (0.087) |
| Drive Plate Thickness mm (in) | ||
| Standard | 1.90 - 2.05 (0.0748 - 0.0807) | |
| Allowable Limit | 1.8 (0.071) |

| Thickness Of Retaining Plate |
X8075 | X8006 | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thickness mm (in) | Part Number | Thickness mm (in) | Part Number | |
| 11.8 (0.465) | 31667-X0300 | 7.8 (0.307) | 31667-X0500 | |
| 12.0 (0.472) | 31667-X0301 | 8.0 (0.315) | 31667-X0501 | |
| 12.2 (0.480) | 31667-X0302 | 8.2 (0.323) | 31667-X0502 | |
| 12.4 (0.488) | 31667-X0303 | 8.4 (0.331) | 31667-X0503 | |
| 12.6 (0.496) | 31667-X0304 | 8.6 (0.339) | 31667-X0504 | |
| 12.8 (0.504) | 31667-X0305 | 8.8 (0.346) | 31667-X0505 |

| 2nd Brake Band Piston Size mm (in) | X8075 | X8006 |
|---|---|---|
| Big Diameter | 64 (2.52) | 80 (3.15) |
| Small Diameter | 40 (1.57) | 50 (1.97) |
| O.D. Brake band Piston Size mm (in) | ||
| Big Diameter | 60 (2.36) | 64 (2.52) |
| Small Diameter | 36 (1.42) | 36 (1.46) |
| Front End Play mm (in) | ||
| 0.5 - 0.8 (0.020 - 0.031) | ||
| Thickness of High-reverse Clutch (front) thrust Washer | Thickness mm (in) | Part number |
| 1.3 (0.051) | 31528-X0107 | |
| 1.5 (0.059) | 31528-X0106 | |
| 1.7 (0.067) | 31528-X0105 | |
| 1.9 (0.075) | 31528-X0100 | |
| 2.1 (0.083) | 31528-X0101 | |
| 2.3 (0.091) | 31528-X0102 | |
| 2.5 (0.098) | 31528-X0103 | |
| 2.7 (0.106) | 31528-X0104 | |
| Total End Play mm (in) | ||
| 0.25 - 0.50 (0.0098 - 0.0197) | ||
| Thickness of oil pump Cover Bearing Race | Thickness mm (in) | Part number |
| 1.2 (0.047) | 31556-X0100 | |
| 1.4 (0.055) | 31556-X0101 | |
| 1.6 (0.063) | 31556-X0102 | |
| 1.8 (0.071) | 31556-X0103 | |
| 2.0 (0.079) | 31556-X0104 | |
| 2.2 (0.087) | 31556-X0105 | |
| O.D. Pack End Play mm (in) | ||
| 0.5 - 0.8 (0.020 - 0.031) | ||
| Thickness Of O.D. Thrust Washer | Thickness mm (in) | Part number |
| 1.5 (0.059) | 31528-X0106 | |
| 1.7 (0.067) | 31528-X0105 | |
| 1.9 (0.075) | 31528-X0100 | |
| 2.1 (0.083) | 31528-X0101 | |
| 2.3 (0.091) | 31528-X0102 | |
| 2.5 (0.098) | 31528-X0103 | |
| 2.7 (0.106) | 31528-X0104 | |
| O.D Total End Play | ||
| 0.25 - 0.50 (0.0098 - 0.0197) | ||
| Thickness Of O.D. Bearing Race | Thickness mm (in) | Part number |
| 1.2 (0.047) | 31556-X0100 | |
| 1.4 (0.055) | 31556-X0101 | |
| 1.6 (0.063) | 31556-X0102 | |
| 1.8 (0.071) | 31556-X0103 | |
| 2.0 (0.079) | 31556-X0104 | |
| 2.2 (0.087) | 31556-X0105 |

| Oil Pump Clearance mm (in) | |
|---|---|
| Outer Gear-pump Housing | |
| Standard | 0.05 - 0.20 (0.0020 - 0.0079) |
| Allowable Limit | 0.25 (0.0098) |
| Outer Gear Crescent | |
| Standard | 0.14 - 0.21 (0.0055 - 0.0083) |
| Allowable Limit | 0.25 (0.0098) |
| Gear-pump Cover | |
| Standard | 0.02 - 0.04 (0.0008 - 0.0016) |
| Allowable Limit | 0.08 (0.0031) |

| Drum Support | |
|---|---|
| Seal Ring-ring Groove | |
| Standard | 0.05 - 0.20 (0.0020 - 0.0079) |
| Allowable Limit | 0.20 (0.0079) |

| Oil Distributor | |
|---|---|
| Seal Ring-ring Groove | |
| Standard | 0.04 - 0.16 (0.0016 - 0.0063) |
| Allowable Limit | 0.16 (0.0063) |

| Planetary Carrier | |
|---|---|
| Clearance Between Pinion Washer and Planetary Carrier | |
| Standard | 0.20 - 0.70 (0.0079 - 0.0276) |
| Allowable Limit | 0.80 (0.0315) |

| Run-out of oil pump cover to housing mm (in) | Less Than 0.07 (0.0028) |
| Run-out of Drum support to O.D. case mm (in) | Less Than 0.05 (0.0020) |

| Stall Revolution Specs | |
|---|---|
| VG30E non-turbo | 2,150 - 2,450 RPM |
| VG30ET Turbo | 2,500 - 2,800 RPM |

=== Interchange ===

All Z31 transmissions are completely interchangeable with the correct parts. They have no problems bolting up to the motor. One problem is they don't always mount to the body correctly. You may have to drill and tap new holes for the transmission mount.

Pro Tip: Driveshaft Sizing

Each transmission has its own output shaft size and overall length. If you have a two-seater Z31, just match your new transmission with a driveshaft from another two-seater with the same transmission. Four-seater owners, especially those converting to turbo or manual, may need to have a driveshaft lengthened—these are much harder to find. Plenty of FS5W71C 2+2 driveshafts exist, so that's your easiest route for 2+2 5-speed swaps.

Pro Tip: Z32 Manual Transmissions

Want to run a Z32 manual transmission in your Z31? You'll need an '89–'91 Maxima SE flywheel, and you'll have to modify both the stock shifter and transmission mount. [http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2536 Read more about this swap here.]

Pro Tip: Automatic Swaps & Flexplates

If you're swapping one automatic for another, make sure you're matching the same transmission type—Non-Turbo for Non-Turbo, Electronic for Electronic, etc. If the torque converter doesn't line up properly with the flexplate (either too tight or too far away), you likely have mismatched parts. Turbo and Non-Turbo automatics use different torque converters and flexplates. Always match the converter and flexplate to your transmission to avoid pump drive damage!

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/automatic-flex1.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/automatic-flex2.jpg

=== Sources Used ===

* [[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* [http://www.az-zbum.com/information.transmission.shtml AZ-Zbum]
* [http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2536 Z31performance.com]
* FS5W71C Transmission Weight posted by: Cuda of
[http://www.z31.com Z31.com]
* T-5 FS5R90A Transmission Weight posted by: Matico40 of
[http://www.z31.com Z31.com]
* FS5R30A Transmission weight posted by: Grendel9 of
[http://www.z31.com Z31.com]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/timingbelt php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 VG30E(t) Timing Belt Replacement and 60K Maintainance|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/timingbelt.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/timingbelt.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 VG30E(t) Timing Belt Replacement and 60K Maintainance ==

Replacing the Z31 timing belt is one of the most important maintenance items for your Z31. The VG30E and VG30ET motors are interference engines, meaning the valves and pistons share a common space. If your timing belt fails, the valves will stop opening and closing but the pistons will keep moving, causing severe engine damage.

When the piston moves down, the intake valve opens to let air in, then closes for the compression stroke. At top dead center, the spark plug fires and the explosion pushes the piston down. At bottom dead center, the exhaust valve opens to let exhaust out and closes before the piston comes back up—preventing contact.

If your timing belt fails,
the pistons will hit the valves, causing at least two bent or broken valves in the engine.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Timing%20Belt%20Replacement/87300ZXNA005.jpg Damaged Z31 Valves]

Note the tops of the valves laying on the pistons.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Timing%20Belt%20Replacement/87300ZXNA019.jpg Broken Valve Tops]

Note the missing valve tops—these were broken off when the pistons hit them.

=== Parts Needed ===

| Part | 1984-86 NA Part # |
1984-86 Turbo Part # |
1987-89 NA Part # |
1987-89 Turbo Part # |
Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Belt - Timing |
|

* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=02117-00003&Category_Code= 11920-7B405]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11720-00002&Category_Code= 11720-V5302TM]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=02117-00001&Category_Code= 02117-44523TM]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=02117-00001&Category_Code= 02117-44523TM]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A192M-00003&Category_Code= A192M-F61SMVW]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=02117-00002&Category_Code= 02117-04023TM]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=02117-00002&Category_Code= 02117-04023TM]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A195M-00002&Category_Code= A195M-F61SAVW]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13070-00002&Category_Code= 13070-42L00]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=VG-TNSTD&Category_Code= 13073-V5001]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13072-00003&Category_Code= 13072-V5210]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/washer-lock-p-248418.html 13074-V5000]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/unknown-check-back-later-p-237575.html 09340-0014P]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/unknown-check-back-later-p-237121.html 08911-2401A]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13042-0B001&Category_Code= 13042-0B001]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13510-88G10&Category_Code= 13510-88G00]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=22630-VG30&Category_Code= 22630-01P01]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/harness-assy-egi-sub-p-296295.html 24079-01P00]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13023-00001&Category_Code= 13023-V5000]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13022-Z31CP&Category_Code= 13022-V5001]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13021-VG30&Category_Code= 13021-V5001]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/hose-water-p-252191.html 14055-01P00]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/hose-radiatorlower-p-274886.html 21503-01P61]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/hose-radiatorupper-p-274872.html 21502-01P25]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/hose-radiator-upperrear-p-274710.html 21501-01P26]| Part | A/B Series Engine # |
W-Series Engine # |
Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waterpump |
|

* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=21010-00002&Category_Code= 21010-02P85]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=21014-00001&Category_Code= 21014-V5002]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=21200-00003&Category_Code= 21200-42L01]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/thermostat-assy-p-273179.html 21200-V5010]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=13050-00001&Category_Code= 13050-V5011]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=00926-51600&Category_Code= 00926-51600]
* [http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=00926-51600&Category_Code= 00926-51600]'''Quick Option:'''You can purchase the Timing Belt Kit, part number

[http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=Z31-TBKITA1 Z31-TBKITA1]from Courtesy Nissan.

Note: This kit does

'''not'''include everything listed in the full parts chart above.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Timing%20Belt%20Replacement/tbeltparts1.jpg Z31 Timing Belt Kit Parts]

=== Tools Needed ===

| Tool | Notes |
|---|---|
| Pulley puller | |
| Seal puller | Not necessary |
| Allen wrench set | |
| White paint pen | |
| Pry bar | |
| Air impact wrench & impact sockets | Makes some steps much simpler; a must for automatic |
| 27 mm socket | |
| Torque wrench | |
| RTV silicone | |
| Various metric sockets | |
| Ratchet | |
| Extensions |

=== The Tear Down and Installation ===

* Remove lower engine shield (usually missing from most Z31s).
-
Next is the cooling fan. Remove the four nuts holding it to the water pump pulley. Be careful not to drop them.

-
Remove the fan shroud and all engine belts.

* Remove the crankshaft pulley (23mm bolt). For manuals, put the car in 5th gear and set the parking brake, then break the bolt loose. For automatics, use an air impact gun. Reinstall the bolt (without the pulley) so you can rotate the motor to align timing marks.
* Remove the A/C idler pulley (held on by bolts at each end).
-
Remove the timing belt covers. Start with the upper one (many 8mm bolts), then the lower one.

* Optional: Remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the motor for aligning timing marks.
-
Align the motor and mark the location on the old belt and pulleys.

-
Remove the old thermostat and water pump and replace them. Do this with the old belt in place to avoid coolant spilling on the new belt.

* Decide if you will be replacing the oil seals.
-
If replacing the oil seals, hold the cam sprockets and unbolt them, remove the sprockets, and replace the cam seals.

* Replace the sprockets and torque to spec. Use the old belt for holding pulleys if needed. For automatics or engines out of the car, use air tools or a chain wrench with the old belt.
-
There are no lips behind the cam seals—tap carefully!

-
Loosen the crank pulley bolt (1 x 27mm) using a real penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster). Remove the crank sprocket gently; do not pry or you may damage the oil pump housing.

Pro tip: Drill/tap two holes in the crankshaft sprocket to use a wheel puller for easy removal.

-
Relieve tension on the timing belt tensioner, then remove the old belt. Replace the tensioner and tensioner stud.

-
Install the new belt with the marks lined up on the pulleys. Be absolutely sure it’s correct!

* Turn the engine over by hand a few times to ensure nothing interferes. (Note: The marks on belt/pulleys only line up again after many revolutions; do not worry if you are confident in your timing.)
* Adjust belt tension according to the shop manual. This may take a few tries—correct tension is crucial for belt life. Torque the lock nut to spec.
* Replace all removed items and start the engine. (Tip: Replace the 2-inch water hose between the thermostat housing and metal coolant pipe now, as these often leak.)

=== Torque Specs ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Timing%20Belt%20Replacement/torquespecs.jpg

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]- 1984 - 1989 Nissan 300zx Haynes Manual
* Nissan Parts Image from: Stu85na
* Tensioner Stud Image from: travbabble
* Write up from:
[http://www.sadik.net http://www.sadik.net]Modified by XenonXIII for z31 - Parts List By: AZ-Zbum

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/stockspoilerinstall php

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XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Stock Spoiler install on a car that was not equipped with a spoiler|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/stockspoilerinstall.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/stockspoilerinstall.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Stock Spoiler install on a car that was not equipped with a spoiler ==

If you have a 1984-1985 or 1987-1989 Non-Turbo 300ZX, you know that a rear spoiler was not available from the factory. A great upgrade for these models is to add the Turbo spoiler for a more aggressive look and improved style.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0272.jpg Turbo Spoiler on Z31]

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Tools and Parts Needed ===

* Spoiler
* 5/8" drill bit
* Drill
* Tape
* Spoiler gasket

=== Installation/h2> ===
The first thing you may want to do is clean up your spoiler. If you have a '''1984-1985''' spoiler, it is made of foam rubber with a metal supporting structure. The '''1986''' model is fiberglass and has a 3rd brake light built in, so wiring will be needed. The '''1987-1989''' model spoilers are also fiberglass but do not have the brake light.

The only 2+2 with a spoiler in the US was the 1986 model. However, they will fit all other year 2+2 cars.

To locate the holes to drill, roll small pieces of duct tape on each stud of the spoiler.

Doing this will transfer the tape onto the hatch lid, leaving small circle indentations showing exactly where to drill the holes.

Carefully center punch the location and then drill the holes.

On the underside of the hatch, you will also need to drill two 5/8" holes to access the two inner studs.

Tighten the spoiler down and enjoy!

The first thing you may want to do is clean up your spoiler. If you have a '''1984-1985''' spoiler, it is made of foam rubber with a metal supporting structure. The '''1986''' model is fiberglass and has a 3rd brake light built in, so wiring will be needed. The '''1987-1989''' model spoilers are also fiberglass but do not have the brake light.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0261.jpg Spoiler Types]

The only 2+2 with a spoiler in the US was the 1986 model. However, they will fit all other year 2+2 cars.

To locate the holes to drill, roll small pieces of duct tape on each stud of the spoiler.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0264.jpg Tape on Spoiler Studs]

Doing this will transfer the tape onto the hatch lid, leaving small circle indentations showing exactly where to drill the holes.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0267.jpg Tape Marked Drill Spots]

Carefully center punch the location and then drill the holes.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0268.jpg Drill the Holes]

On the underside of the hatch, you will also need to drill two 5/8" holes to access the two inner studs.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0269.jpg Underside Drill Access]

Tighten the spoiler down and enjoy!

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Spolier%20install/DSCF0271.jpg Finished Install]

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Images and Write-up By : Amreboot

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/stereoinstall php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Replacing your stock Z31 Radio with an Aftermarket head unit|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/stereoinstall.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/stereoinstall.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Replacing your stock Z31 Radio with an Aftermarket head unit ==

So you got your Z and want to listen to some tunes but your stock head unit is just not cutting it anymore. Upgrading your Z31 tunes isn’t a hard job, but will take some work to do it correctly.

Back in the 80s, Nissan was one of the companies that decided to show what they could do with technology, and the 300ZX is a fine example of top-of-the-line 80s tech. The audio system in the 300ZX had many advanced features for its time. Some of these include digital tuning, external amplifier (depending on model), 4 or 6 speakers (depending on model), voice warning system (“Bitchin Betty”), antenna half-mast operation, steering wheel controls, and diversity tuning. I’ll explain what all this means below.

Because of the advanced features found in the 300ZX, installing your aftermarket head unit will require more work than just buying a mount kit and harness connector. Here are some of the things you run into when tackling this upgrade.

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Items Needed ===

=== What You’ll Need ===

* Head Unit
* Mounting Kit (part# METRA 99-7411)
* 16awg or 14awg double strand speaker wire
* Electrical tape
* Crimp connectors or soldering iron
* Wire cutters
* Wire taps

=== Removal of Factory Head Unit ===

* Disconnect the (-) battery cable from the battery. This keeps you from shorting out the circuit and blowing fuses.
* Place the hand brake on and move your shifter to the rearmost position.
* Pull the ash tray out with a firm tug to reveal the two screws that hold the lower part of the bezel. Using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, remove these two screws.
* Remove the two uppermost screws hidden under the lip of the top of the trim bezel with the same screwdriver.
* With the bezel loose, carefully pull it out to access the connectors for the lighter and its light. Unplug these and set the bezel in a safe place.
* Now you have access to the radio and climate control bracket. It’s held in with four 10mm bolts: two on top and two under the head unit.
* With these bolts removed, pull the radio and climate control out to access the electrical plugs. Carefully disconnect all plugs and remove the mount, being careful not to hit your shifter.
* With the mount removed, you’ll see screws holding the stock head unit. Remove all four screws and the stock unit should slide out, including the trim panel.

=== Wiring Harness Color Chart ===

Now that you have the unit out, you will see the wiring harness for the stock head unit. Depending on your model (GL or GLL) you will need to wire your new head unit to this. Tap connectors come in handy to avoid cutting your stock harness. Below are the wires to look for and what they need to connect to on your new aftermarket harness.

| Wire Use | Stock Color | Aftermarket Color |
|---|---|---|
| 12V+ Switched power | Yellow with Green Trace | Red |
| 12V+ Constant (memory) | Blue with Red Trace | Yellow |
| Ground | None in harness | Black (Ground to chassis) |
| Antenna | Green with black trace | Blue with white trace (Check your Manual) |
| Illumination | Red with Green trace | Orange (Check your Manual) |
| Right Front (+) | Red with White trace | Grey |
| Right Front (-) | Red Solid'' | Grey with Black trace See '' |
| Left Front (+) | Blue with White trace | White |
| Left Front (-) | Blue Solid'' | White with Black trace See '' |
| Right Rear (+) | Red w/ Black trace (GL) Red w/ Green trace (GLL) |
Purple |
| Right Rear (-) | Red Solid (GL)* Red w/ Yellow trace (GLL) |
Purple with Black trace See * |
| Left Rear (+) | Blue w/ Black trace (GL) Light Green w/ White trace (GLL) |
Green |
| Left Rear (-) | Blue Solid (GL)* Light Green w/ Black trace (GLL) |
Green with Black trace See * |

==== *Common Ground ====

The GL models use a common ground system for the speakers. This means a common ground is shared between more than one speaker. The Z31 has this type of wiring from the factory—left side shares a ground and right side shares a ground. To wire your aftermarket head unit, you’ll need to split this out so each speaker has its own ground to the head unit.

An easy solution is to run new speaker wires to either the front or rear speakers and use the stock wiring for the other set. For example, you can keep the stock harness for the front speakers and run new wiring to the rear, which also keeps the Voice Warning System intact.

=== Voice Warning System ===

The 300ZX came with a Voice Warning System, nicknamed "Bitchin Betty". This system provides warnings for five conditions:

* Left door is open
* Right door is open
* Lights are on
* Fuel level is low
* Parking brake is on

The Voice Warning System was only available in the 1984–1986 GL and GLL models. Base (SF) models and all 1987–1989 Z31s did not have this feature.

The system works by interrupting the signal going to the front left speaker and replacing it with the voice warning. The signal is generated by the Voice Warning Module located above and behind the ECU in the passenger kick panel (often covered by insulation).

The system uses only the left front speaker, and no amplifier or radio is required for it to function. Most people lose this function after rewiring the front speakers for a new head unit.

=== Half Mast Antenna Function ===

In the 1984 to 1986 models Nissan installed an antenna switch for full height/half mast operation. This feature was not very useful but was one of those 80s cool things. Having the antenna at half mast height reduced the reception performance. If you wish to keep this function, you can easily move the switch to the new stereo plate and plug it in. The switch is just a single pole single throw switch if you need to replace it. If you don't care about it, you need to connect the two wires that were plugged into the antenna switch so the mast operates at full mast.

=== Steering Wheel Controls ===

On GLL models, steering wheel controls were available for basic head unit functions, including:

* Power on/off
* Tape selector
* Tuner band
* Scan
* Volume control wheel

These controls operate using an LED built into both the steering wheel and steering column. The sending unit (in the wheel) transmits a signal to the receiver unit in the column. This receiver then relays the signal wirelessly to a separate receiver box, typically located under the rear compartment (2-seater) or rear seats (2+2).

Note: Removal of the receiver box will disable cruise control functionality. Most aftermarket head units can use the steering wheel controls with an adapter such as the PAC SWI-X converter.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Based On Paul Hillman's Write-up on Stereo installation

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/steeringwheelglltogl php

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XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 GLL to GL Steering Wheel Conversion|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/steeringwheelglltogl.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/steeringwheelglltogl.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 GLL to GL Steering Wheel Conversion ==

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/MichaleP%20GLLtoGLwheel/wheels.jpg

One of the best things you can do to a GLL's interior (IMO) is to get rid of that ugly steering wheel. I chose to go with a GL steering wheel. The process I used involves cutting a wire that is necessary to use have the horn work on the GLL steering wheel, if you EVER think you may want to go back to the GLL wheel, DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY! I'll tell/show here the procedure to install it if you do not wish to keep the cruise. I had removed the cruise from my car. If you wish to keep the cruise and use this steering wheel, you'll need the cruise switches from a GL car, and to figure out how to install that stuff on your own with help of the FSM found here.
''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Tools Needed ===

* Phillips head screw driver
* 10mm socket /w ratchet
* 19mm socket /w ratchet
* Steering wheel puller
* Wire cutters / crimpers
* Knife
* Soldering Iron

=== Parts Needed ===

* GL Steering wheel
* GL combination switch assembly (light switch, wiper switch, and cruise switch)
* GL column plastics (cannot reuse GLL, screw locations are different and is not cut out for cruise switch)
* Cruise switch harness (car end. Can be cut, just save enough wire to solder new wire to). This is optional, makes for quick removal of combination switch in the future.
* 2 1N4001 diode diodes
* Wire (enough to extend each wire from cruise switch (5 in total) to ASCD controller in driver’s kick panel)
* Solder
* Electrical tape / Heat shrink
* Blue female connector (you can buy a ton of them at a parts store for a few bucks)

=== The Process ===

* I recommend you disconnect your battery, because you'll be dealing with electrical components.
* First you want to remove the steering wheel column covers. To do this, there are 4 Phillips head screws that hold this all together. The outer two hold the halves together and the inner two hold the cover to the combo switch. Now remove the key light connector and the cover will be free. Be careful not to crack the cover when pulling the lower half over the cruise control switch on GL models.
* Now you can pry the horn cover off the steering wheel with your hands. To do this, start at the top and pull. You will now see the 19mm nut that holds the wheel to the shaft. Remove this nut and use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Another way to remove this without the puller is to loosen this nut but leave it on about 3 turns. Now shake the wheel side to side and top to bottom. It will come loose and the nut is still there to keep the wheel from hitting yourself in the face with it.
* Now that the steering wheel is removed, you'll see the slip ring on the GLL model. Unplug the connector from it, then it should just slide off the steering column. The GL does not have this.
* With the slip ring removed, you should see the Switch Mount that the turn signal switches and wiper switches screw onto. You'll need to remove the 4 screws (2 per switch). With the screws removed, the switches should slide right out the side without needing to unplug them.
-
Loosen the clamp on the back side of the switch mount and slide it off the steering shaft.

* With that one out, you can now proceed to get the one from the GL. Don't be like me and drop it, because it does not like 3 foot falls...luckily, mine didn't break anywhere important, so I could still install it properly. Slide it onto the steering column, and MAKE SURE the clip goes into the hole in the column. If it doesn't, you WILL push it too far, and your horn won't work.
* Tighten the clamp on the back of the switch mount and Re-install the switches into the side of the GL switch mount. Don’t forget to install the 4 screws for the switches.
-
Now you'll need to wire up the horn. Remember that plug you unplugged from the slip ring? Cut the SOLID black wire, and strip the end. Now install the Female Spade connector.

-
Plug the connector into the back side of the switch mount, onto the male plug for the horn button.

* Next, remove the ASCD controller. It is tightly tucked away just above the fuse panel. Have a look at the FSM if you are having trouble finding it.
* Now you can extend each of the cruise switch wires down to the ASCD controller. Splice each of your wires into the controller wiring as shown in the diagram below. You can cut the wires (except for the stop lamp wire and pin 14 wire) and connect them directly to the cruise switch if you wish. I chose to splice just in case I decided to go back to the GLL wheel in the future. All changes to the wiring are shown in red:
* Normally, in a GL, the cancel wire would be connected to pin 11 on the ASCD controller. The pin is there on the GLL but there is no wire in the harness, so I chose to use the stop lamp wire instead. The diodes are added so that, when using the cancel button, the brake lights will not come on and to prevent power from the brake lights from feeding back into the ASCD controller.
* Finally, you need to ground pin 5 of the steering wheel receiver. Refer to your FSM for receiver location; it is under the luggage box in 2 seater models but I am unsure of the location in a 2+2. Pin 5 needs to be grounded so that the cruise pilot light and relay will stay on when activated.
-
Install the GL steering wheel. Simply slide it over the steering column (CENTERED) and onto the spline, then re-install the 19mm nut. Torque specs for this is 36 to 43 ft lbs.

* Hook up the battery, and test the horn. If you did everything properly, it should work.
* Reinstall the steering column covers and clean your interior and you are done.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Write-up based on Information provided by MichaelP and JBMartin87

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/springs php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Suspension Spring Differences|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/springs.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/springs.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Suspension Spring Differences ==

Looking to upgrade the handling or stance of your Z31? If your rear is sagging or you want a firmer ride, this guide covers everything you need to know about Z31 (1984-1989 300ZX) springs—stock, aftermarket, and interchangeable options.

'''Pro Tip:'''All Z31 springs are interchangeable across all years and models—2-seater, 2+2, Turbo, and Non-Turbo. No fitment issues!

==== Swapping Factory Springs ====

'''Spring swaps between years/models:'''Any Z31 spring fits any Z31. You may see minor changes in ride height or stiffness depending on which model's springs you use.'''Factory Performance:'''1987–1989 Turbo models have stiffer springs than Non-Turbo models.'''Stiffest Stock Option:'''The 1988 Shiro Special Edition springs are the firmest you can get from the factory.

==== Aftermarket Spring Options ====

'''Popular brands:'''Eibach, Tokico, and more are available for the Z31.'''Progressive Rate (Variable) Springs:'''Eibach springs, for example, are variable rate. They offer a smooth ride in normal driving and stiffen up during hard cornering for better handling.'''How to identify:'''Progressive springs have one end with tighter coils—these compress first for comfort, while the rest engage for performance as you push harder.

'''Note:'''All factory Z31 springs are color-coded for easy identification based on their application.

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Spring Lookup Tool ===

Use the charts below to identify the model and specs of your Z31 springs. Clean your spring and look for the color code—it will be two dots painted on the spring coils. The color combination identifies the spring model, and you can check the rates listed in the tool below.

=== Front Springs ===

| Spring # | Color Code (Top / Bottom) |
Wire Diameter (mm/in) |
Coil Diameter (mm/in) |
Free Length (mm/in) |
Spring Rate Constant (N/mm / kg/mm / lb/in) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | red / white | 13.5 (0.531) | 170 (6.69) | 293.5 (11.56) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 2 | white / white | 13.5 (0.531) | 170 (6.69) | 306.0 (12.05) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 3 | yellow / white | 13.5 (0.531) | 170 (6.69) | 300.0 (11.81) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 4 | white / white | 13.8 (0.543) | 170 (6.69) | 306.0 (12.05) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 5 | yellow / white | 14.0 (0.551) | 170 (6.69) | 300.0 (11.81) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 6 | blue / white | 13.8 (0.543) | 170 (6.69) | 312.5 (12.30) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 7 | yellow / white | 13.8 (0.543) | 170 (6.69) | 294.5 (11.59) | 25.5 (2.6) (146) |
| 8 | yellow / orange | 14.8 (0.583) | 170 (6.69) | 268.5 (10.57) | 34.3 (3.5) (196) |
| 9 | blue / orange | 13.9 (0.547) | 170 (6.69) | 318.5 (12.54) | 23.83 (2.43) (136.1) |
| 10 | orange / pink | 14.5 (0.571) | 170 (6.69) | 263.0 (10.35) | 36.3 (3.7) (207) |

The table above shows the color codes and specs for all factory Z31 front springs. The chart below shows which models came with each type of spring from the factory.

| Spring Code | Year | Seats | Model | Roof | Engine |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1984 | 2 | SF/GL | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 1 | 1984 | 2 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Turbo |
| 2 | 1984 | 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 3 | 1984 | 2 | GLL | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 3 | 1984 | 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Turbo |
| 4 | 1985-1986 | 2 | GLL | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 4 | 1985 | 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Turbo |
| 5 | 1985 | 2 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Turbo |
| 5 | 1985-1986 | 2 | SF/GL | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 6 | 1987-1989 | 2 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 6 | 1985-1986 | 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 7 | 1984 | 2 | 50th AE | T-Top | Turbo |
| 7 | 1986 | 2 and 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Turbo |
| 8 | 1987-1989 | 2 and 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Turbo |
| 9 | 1987-1989 | 4 | All Trims | All Roof Type | Non-Turbo |
| 10 | 1988 | 2 | Shiro | T-Top | Turbo |

=== Rear Springs ===

![Z31 Rear Springs](images/Rear_Suspension/rear_springs.jpg)

Here you will find the Color Codes and rates for the Stock Rear Springs installed in the Z31 Chassis.

| # | Color Code (Top / Bottom) |
Wire Dia. (mm/in) |
Coil Dia. (mm/in) |
Free Length (mm/in) |
Spring Rate N/mm (kg/mm) [lb/in] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 Red / 2 Yellow | 12.8 / 0.504 | 110 / 4.33 | 364 / 14.33 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 2 | 1 Yellow / 2 Yellow | 13.0 / 0.512 | 110 / 4.33 | 370 / 14.57 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 3 | 1 White / 2 White | 13.0 / 0.512 | 110 / 4.33 | 376 / 14.80 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 4 | 1 Red / 2 White | 13.2 / 0.520 | 110 / 4.33 | 382 / 15.04 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 5 | 1 Red / 2 White | 13.2 / 0.520 | 111.2 / 4.38 | 382 / 15.04 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 6 | 1 White / 2 Yellow | 13.0 / 0.512 | 110 / 4.33 | 376 / 14.80 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 7 | 1 White / 2 Yellow | 13.2 / 0.520 | 110 / 4.33 | 376 / 14.80 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 8 | 1 Purple / 2 Yellow | 13.8 / 0.543 | 110 / 4.33 | 336.5 / 13.25 | 33.0 (3.36) [188.2] |
| 9 | 1 White / 2 Yellow | 13.0 / 0.512 | 111.0 / 4.37 | 376 / 14.80 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 10 | 1 Purple / 2 Yellow | 13.8 / 0.543 | 111.8 / 4.40 | 336.5 / 13.25 | 33.0 (3.36) [188.2] |
| 11 | 1 Green / 2 Yellow | 13.3 / 0.524 | 111.3 / 4.38 | 388 / 15.28 | 24.5 (2.5) [140] |
| 12 | 1 Pink / 2 White | 13.8 / 0.543 | 111.8 / 4.40 | 341.0 / 13.43 | 33.0 (3.36) [188.2] |
| 13 | 1 White / 1 Purple | 13.5 / 0.531 | 110.0 / 4.33 | 317.0 / 12.48 | 39.2 (4.0) [224] |

Standard spring rates are '''24.5 N/mm (2.5 kg/mm or 140 lb/in)''' unless noted. Shorter/stronger springs are for sportier applications.

Color codes are marked on the coil (top / bottom).

The below table will show you what models had what rear springs installed from the factory.

| Spring Code | Year | Number of Seats | Model Trim | Roof Type | Engine |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1984 | 2 | GL | Hard Top | Non - Turbo |
| 1 | 1984 | All | GL | All | Turbo |
| 2 | 1984 | 2 | GL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 2 | 1984 | 4 | GL | All | Non - Turbo |
| 2 | 1984 | All | GLL | All | Turbo |
| 3 | 1984 | 4 | GLL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 4 | 1985 | 4 | GLL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 4 | 1985 - 1986 | 2 | GLL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 5 | 1987 - 1989 | All | GL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 6 | 1985 | All | GLL | All | Turbo |
| 6 | 1985 - 1986 | All | GL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 6 | 1986 | 2 | GL | Hardtop | Non - Turbo |
| 7 | 1986 | 4 | GLL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 8 | 1984 | 2 | 50th AE | T-Top | Turbo |
| 8 | 1986 | All | All | All | Turbo |
| 9 | 1987 - 1989 | 2 | GL | Hardtop | Non - Turbo |
| 10 | 1987 - 1989 | All | GL | All | Turbo |
| 11 | 1987 - 1989 | All | GLL | T-Top | Non - Turbo |
| 12 | 1987 - 1989 | All | GLL | All | Turbo |
| 13 | 1988 | 2 | Shiro | T-Top | Turbo |

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Information on Spring rates and color coding by - Paul "Az-zbum" Hillman

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/reartailconversion php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Replacing Your Z31 Power Window Motor|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/reartailconversion.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/reartailconversion.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Replacing Your Z31 Power Window Motor ==

With the rounded '87 style front end and a cleaner appearance thanks to the lack of bulky side molding, the '84-'86 rear started to look dated and out of place. So, why not update it? After considering several options, I decided the most appropriate (for a 200ZR-II replica) would be to swap to the more modern '87+ rear panel. When looking at both cars side by side, the challenge—and the payoff—of this project becomes clear.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/85rear.png 1985 Z31 Rear]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/87-89rear.png 1987-89 Z31 Rear]

=== Items Needed ===

If you plan to install an '87 panel onto your pre-'87 ZX, you’ll need to acquire the rear panel. You can order it new from Nissan (part number [https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-panel-assy-rear~79110-21p50.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1984&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( 79110-21P50])), or have a local salvage yard cut one from an existing '87-'89 chassis. For my conversion, Cuda from [http://www.z31.com Z31.com] sent me a rear panel from his '87 parts car, saving time and money. The following approach uses a rear-panel cut.

=== Procedure ===

==== The Process ====

Start by welding in a stabilizer bar in the rear hatch area, just behind the quarter windows. This keeps the chassis from flexing outward after the original rear panel is removed.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion1.jpg Stabilizer Bar Welded]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion2.jpg Rear Panel Prep]

The rear panel is held with a series of spot welds. Begin by drilling out the welds on the upper edge (where the hatch closes). The '84 latch and structure will be reused, so drill out its welds as well. Use a 3/8" cobalt bit and only drill through the first layer.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion3.jpg Drilling Spot Welds]

'''Note:''' Mark weld locations with paint before drilling for easier removal.

Once the spot welds are drilled, separate the panels using a screwdriver. Don’t worry about damaging the panel you’re removing.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion4.jpg Panel Separation]

Continue drilling and separating spot welds on the outer edges and license plate panel.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion5.jpg Outer Edge Welds]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion6.jpg License Panel Removal]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion7.jpg License Panel Welds]

For the lower edge, cut the panel approximately 2" above the factory seam.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion10.jpg Lower Edge Cut]

At the quarter panels, cut about an inch from the edge, leaving all quarter-panel to tail-lamp mounts intact. Remove the panel from the vehicle.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion11.jpg Quarter Panel Cuts]

Here’s a comparison of the original (removed) panel and the '87 panel.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion13.jpg Old vs New Rear Panel]

To install the '87 panel, trim the quarter panel areas to fit the '84 section. Trim a little at a time and test fit until perfect. Below are examples of what I trimmed:

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion8.jpg Driver Side Trim]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion9.jpg Passenger Side Trim]

Remove inside support structures and the latch (spot-welded in place). Drill out spot welds just as before.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion12.jpg Support Structure Removal]

Prep the panel by carefully fitting and trimming until the new panel fits perfectly.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion20.jpg Test Fit 1]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion21.jpg Test Fit 2]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion23.jpg Test Fit 3]

Before welding, test fit the taillamps to ensure even spacing.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/rearconversion24.jpg Test Fit Taillamps]

Once satisfied, weld the panel in place. Plug weld to the upper reinforcement and latch using the drilled holes, and run continuous welds at the quarter panels and along the bottom. The '84 lower inside edge may need to be bent to fit the '87 panel.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress1.jpg Welded Panel]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress3.jpg Weld Progress]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress4.jpg Panel Welded]

Grind welds smooth and shape the area with high-quality filler. There is a continuous stitch weld along the bottom. (Note: Filler in the quarter panel here was for accident repair, not tail conversion.)

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress20.jpg Filler Applied]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress30.jpg Filler Sanded]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress40.jpg Panel Shaped]

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/tailprogress50.jpg Panel Sanded]

Finally, prime and paint the rear section. Apply 3M's Brushable Seam Sealer to all welds inside and out before priming. Ensure all interior seams are coated to prevent moisture intrusion. Mask the body to prevent paint from getting inside.

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/maskedforbed.jpg Masked for Painting]

Prime with a high-build surfacer and sand to 600 grit (or as instructed by the primer manufacturer).

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/finalsand4.jpg Final Sanding]

Finish with your chosen paint, install lights, hatch seal, and closers. If desired, add the '87 rear emblem (I chose the graphite "300zx Turbo" — [http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/label-rear-p-506830.html part number 99099-21P11]).

![https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Rear%20Conversion/102803_3.jpg Finished Rear Conversion]

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Images and write-up By: Redare

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/prw2 php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/prw2.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/prw2.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade ==

This is a pretty simple modification for a more reliable spark for your Z31. This upgrade can also be used on the S130 by following the method with the 2-wire unit.

=== What is a PRW-2 ===

This PRW-2 install guide pertains to the following item, which goes by several names:

* Power Transistor Unit
* Ignition Control Module
* Ignitor Chip
* Ignition Transistor

This is the transistor that charges and discharges the ignition coil. It can be found on a number of distributor-equipped Nissans.

=== Interchange ===

==== Where to Find a PRW-2 Unit ====

You can get a PRW-2 unit from any of the following models:

* INFINITI M30 (1990 – 1991)
* NISSAN ALTIMA (1993 – 1997) — Located under the airbox
* NISSAN AXXESS (1990 – 1992)
* NISSAN D21 PICKUP (1990 – 1994)
* NISSAN MAXIMA (1989 – 1994) — Located near the distributor on a bracket
* NISSAN NX (1991 – 1993)
* NISSAN PATHFINDER (1987 – 1995)
* NISSAN PICKUP (1995 – 1996)
* NISSAN PULSAR NX (1989 – 1990)
* NISSAN SENTRA (1989 – 1994)
* NISSAN STANZA (1990 – 1992)

The unit you’ll be sourcing looks like this (PRW-2, but there is also a similar-looking PRW-1A):

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/prw2.jpg

PRW-2 ignitor module (some units may be labeled PRW-1A but look nearly identical)

=== PRW-2 Install: Pin Swap & Mounting ===

On the Z31 harness, located on your driver-side strut tower behind the headlight (where the main ignition components are), you will find your current PTU.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/powertrans.png

The PRW-2 is not exactly plug and play, but it’s close. The issue with the newer PRW-2 is that two wires have been flipped, or two contacts need to be swapped on the Z31 harness. The procedure is simple and is outlined below.

-
'''Remove the black housing clip'''on the back of the Z31 harness gray connector to expose the seals on the back of the wires.- You do not interact with or poke the seals.
* This step just allows you to pull the wires out.

-
'''Swap the black wire with the green/white wire.'''This is the only change needed to the harness.

Pinout:- Blue – Signal to Coil and Tach
* Green – Signal from ECU and CAS
* Black – Ground

Note for early '84 models: If you had the 2-pin Power Transistor, you’ll need to swap over the later style connector. The wires are the same, but you are missing the black ground in your harness—so you must add a chassis ground to the black lead after swapping the pins.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/early.jpg

==== How to Remove Pins ====

Insert a safety pin into the small rectangular hole just above the head of each contact pin from the inside of the connector. Lay the pin flat on top of the connector contact and slide it in gently until it stops.

Do not force it—gently pry downwards to move the retainer inside the connector up and away from the pin, while gently tugging the back of the wire.

Do not use generic pin removal tools; they are usually too large, too thick, or not long enough.

![Pin Removal Animation](images/prw2/2Pctu.gif)

==== Final Installation ====

Once you’ve swapped the wires, you can then plug and play. Just find a good mounting location in the same area, ensuring you have solid metal-to-metal contact for proper heat sinking.

![Completed PRW-2 Install](images/prw2/complete.jpg)

=== Benefits ===

The benefits of this modification include a smoother idle and quicker throttle response, as the PRW-2 uses a newer and faster transistor. As our cars get older and parts become more scarce, this upgrade will likely become even more common. Even aftermarket companies are beginning to replace the old part with the PRW-2, often including a small sub-harness to handle the wire swap for you.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Modification found by:
[https://www.facebook.com/michael.palladino.79 Michael Palladino]
* Images by Careless, Z_Karma, TearingRave,
[http://www.rockauto.com Rockauto.com]
* Early transistor image by: Carrick Kendrick Video from The Z Garage

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/nistune php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Nistune ECU Tuning|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/nistune.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/nistune.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Nistune ECU Tuning ==

=== Question, What is Nistune? ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/nistune/logo.png

NIStune RealTime boards provide a way to make your factory Engine Control Unit (ECU) fully reprogramable similar to aftermarket Engine Control units for a fraction of the price. They use the latest technologies available on the market today to keep the size of the board small and cost lower.

Having your factory ECU reprogrammable means that either yourself or a knowledgeable tuner can quickly and easily retune your factory ECU with minimal installation and setup. They are tuned using the NIStune software.

Unlike any other type of daughterboards available for Nissan vehicles on the market, NIStune boards are the only real-time tuning solution available on a single small standalone board.

Once initially programmed, the NIStune board is permanently installed in the owners ECU (engine control unit). The ECU can then be tuned on a dyno via either the USB connector for Type 1 boards

The Z31 will use the type 1 board from Nistune shown below

![](images/nistune/type1-01-large.jpg)

=== Installing the NISTUNE board ===

I installed my own NISTUNE board into my ecu myself and it wasn't that hard to do with basic soldering knowledge.

First start by removing the 4 screws on both the front and back cover of the ECU being careful as they can strip the heads if the ECU was exposed to the elements.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/nistune/ecucover.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/nistune/ecucover.jpg

Next you will need to clean everything that you will be soldering/un-soldering with acetone as the factory covers everything in a lacquer to protect it from the elements.

=== Z31 ECU ROM Tuning Reference ===

The list below shows which ROM set to use as a base when tuning your Z31.

| Nissan ECU Number | BIN to Start With | Nistune Board Model |
|---|---|---|
| 23710-87EXX | J30_VG30E | Type 1 |
| 23710-98EXX | J30_VG30E | Type 1 |
| 23710-01PXX | Z31_EARLY_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-06PXX | Z31_EARLY_VG30 or Z31_LATE_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-10PXX | Z31_EARLY_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-02PXX | Z31_EARLY_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-25PXX | Z31_LATE_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-545XX | Z31_LATE_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-21PXX | Z31_LATE_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-26PXX | Z31_LATE_VG30 | Type 1 |
| 23710-18PXX | Z31_MID_VG30 | Type 1 |

=== Bin File Database ===

The links below will allow you to download Non OEM Bin files and also allow you to upload your own tune to share with Others.

=== Nistune Dealers and Tuners ===

Below is a curated list of authorized '''Nistune Dealers''', '''Installers''', and '''Tuners'''.
If you would like to be added to this directory, please contact us via email:

=== Nistune Dealers, Installers, and Tuners ===

If you wish to be added to this list, please contact us at
[
sales@xenonzcar.com
](mailto:sales@xenonzcar.com?subject=Nistune Dealer, Tuner, Installer)

| Shop Name | Location | Services Offered |
|---|---|---|
|
|

* [https://www.facebook.com/tricountyautogarage Tri-County Auto Garage]
* [http://www.jeimportperformance.com/JE/dyno-tuning/ JE Import Performance]Baltimore, MD 21237

=== Sources Used ===

* [[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.nistune.com/ Nistune.com]
* Kvalue Data written by: Jason84NA2T Jason Butts

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/mods

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 38 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Modifications|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/mods.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/mods.html|fetched=2026-05-16}}

'''Z31 Modifications'''

== Z31 Modifications ==

'''Standard Disclaimer:'''Modification of your car involves risks and may void your warranty. I can not be held responsible for the modifications you consciously decide to undertake nor for the results of doing so.

[[Z31/lateanalogupgrade php|1987 - 1989 Z31 Instrument Cluster Upgrade (Lighting and Needles)]]

[[Z31/aftermarketgauges php|After market Gauge Installation]]

[[Z31/stereoinstall php|After market Stereo Installation]]

[[Z31/boostcontroler php|Boost Controller Installation]]

[[Z31/coilovers php|Coilover Suspension Information]]

[[Z31/digitaldashcolorchange php|Changing Your Digital Dashboard Lighting Color]]

[[Z31/digitaltoanalog php|Digital to Analog Conversion]]

[[Z31/frontclearlenses php|Clear Front Turn Signals]]

[[Z31/speedlimiter php|Disable the Turbo Speed Limiter]]

[[Z31/doubledin php|Double DIN Head Unit Installation]]

[[Z31/EGRdelete php|Emission Delete - EGR, Idle Air Control, Air Regluator]]

[[Z31/Electricfaninstall php|Electric Cooling Fan Installation]]

[[Z31/electricz31steering php|Electric Power Steering Swap]]

[[Z31/frontcontrolarms php|Front Control arm replacement and Bushing upgrade]]

[[Z31/foglightmod php|Fog Lights on with marker lights]]

[[Z31/fuelpumpupgrade php|Fuel Pump upgrade and replacement]]

[[Z31/headlampdownmod php|Head Light Down Mod (Sleepy Eyes)]]

[[Z31/hoodscoop php|Hood Scoop Install]]

[[Z31/IACwiring php|Idle control wiring for Non turbo to turbo swap]]

[[Z31/Illuminated300zxbar php|Illuminated 300ZX bar on 84-86]]

[[Z31/steeringwheelglltogl php|Installing a GL Steering Wheel on a GLL Car]].

[[Z31/droppingresistors|Installing Dropping Resistors to use low-Impedance injectors with 88-89 ECU]]

[[Z31/Z32brakeupgrade|Installing Z32 Front brake calipers and rotors on your Z31]]

[[Z31/vlsdInstall php|Installing VLSD and making Hybrid Half-shafts]]

[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/comingsoon.html Intercooler Information]

[[Z31/maximaalt php|Maxima Alternator Swap]]

[[Z31/motorswap php|Motor Swaps]]

[[Z31/nistune php|Nistune information and Rom database for Z31 cars]]

[[Z31/prw2 php|PRW-2 Ignition Control Module Upgrade]]

[[Z31/rearsuspensionbushings php|Rear control arm Bushing upgrade]]

[[Z31/recoverwheel php|Recovering your Steering Wheel]]

[[Z31/stockspoilerinstall php|Rear Spoiler Installation]]

[Spearco Intercooler Instructions](/xenonzcar_archive/z31/files/Spearco Intercooler Instructions full.pdf)

[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/tensionrods.php Tension Rod changes - 84-87 to 88-89 style]

[[Z31/Frontsuspensionreconditioning php|Tokico Illumina Front Strut Installation]]

[[Z31/reartokico php|Tokico Illumina Rear Shock Installation]]

[[Z31/autotomanualswap php|Transmission Swap Automatic to Manual]]

[[Z31/Frontendconversion php|Front End Conversion from 1984-86 to 1987-89]]

[[Z31/reartailconversion php|Rear End Conversion from 1984-86 to 1987-89 (Includes Taillights)]]

[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/shifter.html Reducing the Height of Your Stock Shifter (hack Job)]

[[Z31/sidemoldingremoval php|Removing the Rubber Side molding]]

[[Z31/Rewirefuelinjectors php|Rewiring Your Fuel Injectors to Factory Stock]]

[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/doorlense.html Ztek Door Lenses Install and Modification]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/lateanalogupgrade php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 2 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=1987 - 1989 Z31 Instrument Cluster Upgrade (Lighting and Needles)|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/lateanalogupgrade.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/lateanalogupgrade.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== 1987 - 1989 Z31 Instrument Cluster Upgrade (Lighting and Needles) ==

The reason I did this to my Instrument cluster was to update it a bit, give myself a more visible red needles at night and more brightness.

I started this project was because my Instrument cluster was dim and with LED's being the craze and my job being based on LED's (Fiber Optic Lasers) I figured oh, Why not.

=== Comparison ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/lateanalogupgradeznivo/stockneedles.png

Stock

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/lateanalogupgradeznivo/redneedlesdone.png

Red Needles

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/lateanalogupgradeznivo/final.png

Final Product

==== Items Needed ====

-
3x
[http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4835706/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481 Mini SMT LED bulbs for the #158](Amber) -
1x
[http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4481016/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481 2722 T1.5](Amber) -
6x
[http://autolumination.com/74.htm T1.5/Neo Wedge/12mm Base bulbs](Red) - Testors Model Master Paint Flat White - FS37875
* Testors Model Master Paint Fluorescent Red - FS28915
* Testors Model Master Paint Insignia Red - FS31136
* Phillips screwdriver
* Flat Head Screwdriver
* Ratchet
* Assorted sockets

==== Bulb Chart ====

| Nissan Part Number | Common Part Number | Volts / Watts | Description | Quantity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| (24855C) - 24860-21P01 | 158 | 12V/3.4W | T3-1/4 | 3 |
| (24855C) - 24860-21P02 | 2722 | 12V/2.0W | T1.5 | 1 |
| (24855B) - 24860-21P00 | 39320 | 12V/2.0W | T1.5/Neo Wedge/12mm Base | 6 |
Notes: #158 bulbs can be replaced with #194 types. #2722 bulbs can be replaced with #74 types.
|

==== The Process ====

* Remove the lower steering column plastic trim. Use a Phillips screwdriver for the 3 screws.
* Remove the trim around the steering wheel (plastic casing just behind the wheel). There are 4 screws, 2 per side. Take off the top portion.
-
Remove switch pods on each side of the instrument cluster.
See:
[[Z31/Switchpodbulbs|Switchpod bulb replacement]]
* Drop the steering column by loosening the 2 golden bolts underneath (but don’t remove them). This helps you get the cluster out without removing the steering wheel.

-
Remove the 2 Phillips screws from the instrument cluster bezel.

* Carefully remove the bezel from the instrument cluster area.
-
Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the left and right of the cluster to free the unit.

* Slowly pull the cluster forward to access the rear.
* Press the top and bottom tabs on each connector to unplug from the cluster.
* Carefully sneak the cluster out between the steering wheel and dash.
* Now, we’ll upgrade to LED bulbs. Some modifications are needed.
-
Remove the Gauge Face Lighting bar on top of the cluster (3 small Phillips screws on the bar, plus 2 auxiliary bulbs).

-
Carefully remove the 3 PCBs (lighting bar and auxiliary bulbs).

-
Remove the front gauge lighting bar to reveal the white lighting diffusers.

-
About diffusers: Keep them for incandescent or LED bulbs. Remove only if using UV bulbs in the 365-390nm range (most LEDs are not true UV).

* Remove the acrylic plastic cover (4 screws front, 5 rear). Gently undo 4 rear and 2 front tabs.
-
Carefully separate and lift the cover.

* LED Directionality: LEDs are directional, unlike incandescent bulbs, so add reflectors for better luminance.
* Red LED note: Red LEDs are focused and near infrared—consider reflectors or paint for better needle illumination.
-
Mix premium white enamel paint well for reflectors (Testors Model Master recommended).

-
Paint the underside of the front lighting bar flat white, as well as the PCB spots for temp/fuel bulbs.

-
Paint the inside of the trough where bulbs rest; stir well and apply several coats. This boosts needle lighting with red LEDs.

* Review: Additional pictures of the cluster and bulbs.
-
This cluster uses an acrylic diffuser for even illumination.

-
The gauge faceplate is lexan, with two squares for temp/fuel gauges.

* The faceplate is orange lexan, screen printed and dotted with white paint on back for even light.
-
Factory odometer/trip bulb: 2722 bulb, can be replaced with #74. Note acrylic diffuser.

-
Center bulb/diffuser: can use #194 bulb.

-
Bulb behind temp gauge: can use #194 bulb.

-
Bulb behind fuel gauge: can use #194 bulb.

-
Comparison: 11 Mini SMT LEDs vs factory #158 bulb. These are the tallest that fit.

* Z31 needles: poly with a weight. Painted fluorescent red for effect.
-
Fluorescent red = orange/red, glows under blacklight. Blend with insignia red for deeper color.

-
Result: Paint matches tachometer, looks more red.

* This method is great for stock, LED, or black light bulbs—needles look red day/night and glow under UV.
-
Needles now glow red, even under black light.

-
Red needles under black light.

* Reinstall needles, clean acrylic cover, button up screws.
* Test the cluster and gauges in car. If all works, tighten all remaining screws.
* View: With regular light and UV (no backlighting yet).
-
Goal: Red needles achieved!

* Slide the cluster in, plug in illumination connector (behind tach). Turn on parking lights, check LED polarity (+/–). LEDs won’t work if reversed!
* Photos show: stock white needles, red colored needles, and finished cluster.
-
Key point: All needles glow red; fuel/temp gauges have red effect.

* Optionally use UV light for fluorescent glow!
* Result: Cooler-running, longer-lasting LEDs, and red illumination for needles and gauges.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Writeup by: Nivo88T

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/issues

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 37 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Common Issues|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/issues.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/issues.html|fetched=2026-05-16}}

'''Z31 Common Issues'''

== Z31 Common Issues ==

Here is a listing of common issues and fixes for the Z31 cars.

* [[Z31/Stuckthrottle php|Accelerator Sticks]]
* [[Z31/AFMCalibration php|Air Flow Meter Adjustment]]
* [[Z31/Alarmsystem php|Alarm System]]
* [[Z31/Brakebleeding|Bleeding Your Brakes]]
* [[Z31/Brakelampsstuck php|Brake Lights Stuck On]]
* [[Z31/Rearwheelbearingreplacement php|Changing Rear Wheel Bearings]]
* [[Z31/ECUcodes php|Checking ECU Fault Codes]]
* [[Z31/Cruisecontrolrepairs php|Cruise Control Repair]]
* [[Z31/DashboardRemoval php|Dashboard Removal]]
* [[Z31/Clutchfan php|Defective Fan Clutch]]
* [[Z31/clutchhydrepairs php|Clutch hydraulic system repairs- Pedal Stuck]]
* [[Z31/CompassCalibration php|Digital Compass Issues]]
* [[Z31/DigitalDashRepair php|Digital Dash Problems]]
* [[Z31/Enginecomponentreconditioning php|Engine Component Refinishing]]
* [[Z31/fuelsendermod|Fuel Level Sender Repairt]]
* [[Z31/Underhoodcleanup php|General Under Hood Cleanup]]
* [[Z31/hatchseal php|Hatch seal Leaking]]
* [[Z31/Headlamps php|Headlight Problems]]
* [[Z31/hotairfromac php|Hot Air From A/C]]
* [[Z31/HVACReconditioning php|HVAC Component Restoration]]
* [[Z31/Cadpaint php|Imitating Cadmium Plating]]
* [[Z31/INSIDEHANDLE php|Inside Door Handle Does Not Work]]
* [[Z31/LeatherCare php|Leather Seat Softening/Cleaning]]
* [[Z31/Overheating php|Overheating]]
* [[Z31/Powerwindowmotors php|Power Window Motor Replacement]]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/Plugs.html Reading Your Spark Plugs]
* [[Z31/crossmemberbushings php|Rear End Clunk - Subframe Bushing Replacement]]
* [[Z31/RebuildingLifters php|Rebuilding Hydraulic Lifters]]
* [[Z31/Windowtrim php|Refinishing Window Trim]]
* [[Z31/Fuelfilter php|Replacing Your Fuel Filter]]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/heatercorereplacment.html Replacing Your Heater Core]
* [[Z31/Switchpodbulbs|Replacing Your Switch Pod Bulbs]]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/t-topsealreplacement.html Replacing Your T-Top Seals]
* [[Z31/Windowseals php|Re-sealing Quarter Windows and Tail Lamps]]
* [[Z31/Frontsuspensionreconditioning php|Strut Replacement and Front Suspension Overhaul]]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Rustrepair.html Surface and Perforated Rust Repair]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Swaybarreconditioning.html Swaybar Reconditioning and Bushing Replacement]
* [[Z31/TCU php|TCU (Timer Control Unit) Repair and replacement]]
* [[Z31/Automaticclimatecontroldiag php|Testing the Automatic Climate Control Unit]]
* [[Z31/timingbelt php|Timing Belt Replacement 60k Maintance]]
* [[Z31/voicewarningsystem php|Voice Warning System (Bitching Betty)]]
* [[Z31/wheelstudreplacement php|Wheel Stud Replacement]]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/hotairfromac php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Getting Hot Air From AC even when set to cold temps|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/hotairfromac.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/hotairfromac.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Getting Hot Air From AC even when set to cold temps ==

On the Z31 300ZX there were two different designs of the Air Conditioning system: a manual system (used on GL models with slider controls for adjustment), and an automatic digital climate control system (offered on GLL models as well as the 50th Anniversary Edition). The digital system uses sensors to monitor and automatically adjust temperature and air flow.

This page discusses common problems and fixes for both systems.

==== Hot Air From A/C Vents ====

Commonly, air flow or temperature control issues are vacuum-related without a single universal cause or fix.

* Any leak in the vacuum system can cause not only heating and air conditioning issues, but also engine performance problems.
* Check the two vacuum lines at the firewall on the passenger side for cracks and leaks. One line goes through the firewall to supply vacuum to the climate control solenoid array, while the other controls the water cock.

There are also three vacuum lines that run back along the fender well to the
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/AC%20repair/vacuumcanister.jpg vacuum canister]. Inspect all of these lines for cracks and leaks. Replace any that feel hard or brittle.
Most lines are color coded: at the canister there is a blue, a white, and a red striped line.
Once identified, run new lines and remove the old ones.

* White: Connects the manifold vacuum source to port M on the vacuum tank (should have a built-in one-way valve).
* Blue: Runs between the water cock and the magnet valve on the vacuum tank.
* Red: Goes between the interior door controls and a live feed from the tank, sometimes labeled as "F".

==== Defrost Vents are the only ones getting any air and it is hot ====

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/actuatorschematic1.png

This issue is becoming more common as these cars age past 40 years. The main causes are vacuum lines running to the actuators that have perished or cracked, or failure of the actuators themselves. The most common actuators to fail are the blend door actuator and the defrost actuator.

Unfortunately, these are also the most difficult to access, as they're mounted on the back of the heater box, buried deep in the dash. This means the entire dash and heater core need to be removed for replacement. From experience, the smaller actuator on the back (blend door actuator) is especially hard to source.

However, you can use aftermarket actuators as replacements with the help of 3D printing for brackets or adapters. Thanks to Nick Sturgis for developing a process that makes this possible.

=== Parts Needed ===

* Dorman OE Solutions 604-922 — Vacuum Style Air Actuator
* Dorman 604-933 — Vacuum Style Air Door Actuator
* Dorman 604-934 — Vacuum Style Air Door Actuator
-
[Full Actuator Mounting Kit (3d Printed)](
https://www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/YZ8CYFUEYN7GU?fbclid=IwY2xjawL3UNFleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFFOVp4dm9Yb0hycjVwY0IyAR7r7CpfocT8rSkMVSrdLmkrka1-m30PuD6JQumS7N47xK6oAx0pByPrQNy2XQ_aem_yLR3qDqiK2_WAE05vr3ibA
)

==== Intake Actuator ====

Actuator: Dorman 604-934

3D Printed Mount:
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/actuator%20mount%201.stl Dorman 604-934 Actuator Mount]

This is the easiest to use and mount—no need to modify the linkage. Simply remove the e-clip from the original actuator and swap it over. The Dorman 604-934 is a 2-stage actuator just like the original. The angle of the door may differ slightly but it should function properly.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/Dorman604-934.jpg

==== Power Servo 1 ====

Actuator: Dorman 604-922

3D Printed Mount:
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/actuator%20mount%202.stl Dorman 604-922 Actuator Mount]

For installation, saw off the last 2 inches of the actuator, then put a right angle in the bracket and use the existing hole to butt against the hardware. Use the actuator's mounting slots to attach the 3D printed mount.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/Dorman604-922-1CUT.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/Dorman604-922-bracket.jpg

==== Power Servo 2 ====

Actuator: Dorman 604-933

3D Printed Mount:
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/actuator%20mount%203.stl Dorman 604-933 Actuator Mount]

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/2025siteimages/Dorman604-933Mods.png

For this actuator, trim off the plastic mounting features and saw off the end of the linkage. The Dorman 604-933 has more travel than the OEM actuator, so the first half-inch of travel does nothing; the next inch actuates the assembly. Refer to the images below for modifications and mounting.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Vacuum Line section Written by: Frank Zemaitis,
* Water Cock Image by: PulseCode of Z31performance.com
* Vent Control Door Repair Written by: Nick Sturgis

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/hoodscoop php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Hood Scoop Install|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/hoodscoop.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/hoodscoop.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Hood Scoop Install ==

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/northeastzmeet1/NortheastZmeet_21.jpg

If you have a non-turbo or a 1986–1989 300ZX that did not come with a stock hood scoop and would like to add the 1984–85 turbo scoop, or if you have a 1987–1989 and want to add the sleek 200ZR scoop to your car, the following write-ups will help you do the install correctly.

==== 1984-1986 300zx Turbo Scoop ====

==== Tools Needed ====

* Measuring Tape
* Permanent Marker
* 10mm Socket
* 12mm Socket
* Ratchet
* Drill
* Drill Bit
* Body saw / Cutoff wheel
* Brush-on Primer

==== Action Needed ====

* First, start off by removing your hood. Have a helper hold the hood while removing the hood shock mounts. There are 2 styles: one is a bolt-on with a 10mm bolt on each mount; the other has a ball stud. To remove these, unclip the hood strut and pull off the ball stud. At this point, you can then remove the four (4) 12mm bolts at the hood-to-hood hinge.
* Next, set your hood on a level surface. Use a set of body/fender stands to hold it, as foam padding will prevent scratching the paint.
-
Now lay out your holes and cutting marks as shown below.

* Once cut, seal the bare metal with a brush-on primer to protect the hood from rust.
* Now mount the scoop to the hood.
* Install your hood back on your car. Installation is reverse of removal.

==== 1987-1989 200zr Scoop Install ====

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/installed.png

In 1987 the Z31 had many small body changes, becoming more rounded and less sharp. One of the nicer updates was the Japanese 200ZR hood scoop, redesigned to be smaller and more blended into the hood compared to earlier models. Many people like this look and add the scoop even if they don't have a 200ZR. Here is how it can be done.

=== Items Needed ===

* Measuring Tape
* Permanent Marker
* 10mm Socket
* 12mm Socket
* Ratchet
* Drill
* Drill Bit
* Body saw / Cutoff wheel
* Brush-on Primer
* 1 paper hood hole template
* 4 rubber mounting washers
* 4 flange nuts
* 1 × 44" x 1/8" rubber gasket
* 2 × 2" x 1/2" rubber strips
* 2 × 1/2" x 8" rubber strips

=== Marking the First Hole Location ===

It is best if you remove the hood from the car. Place the hood on two saw horses or a stable surface. Measure across the top of the hood starting 5.5" below the corner. The hood should measure 52 7/8" wide. Mark the midpoint at 26 7/16" using masking tape. At the front, between the headlights, measure 30" wide and mark at 15". Stretch tape from your top center mark to the front mark—this defines the hood center line. Double-check your measurements at several points. The first hole drilled will be used to locate the template.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/marking1.png

The above picture shows where to drill this hole: 9" down and 2" in from the center. Center punch this spot and drill a pilot hole using a sharp 1/8" bit.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/firsthole.png

=== Locating the Template ===

There are two ways to attach the template for cutting: Use 3M contact aerosol spray (light coat on both surfaces) for easy removal, or use double-face tape. Place the template by aligning the 1/8" pilot hole in the hood to the corresponding hole on the template. Align the template’s left edge parallel to the center line tape. Double-check the placement before cutting.

=== Cutting the Hood and Drilling the Holes ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/templateunderside.png

Drill holes as indicated on the template, avoiding the underside bracing (the 87–89 hood was designed to accommodate the 200ZR scoop). If you hit a brace, re-drill in a new spot. The images show placement as if viewed from the underside. Note the notch Nissan placed in the brace for the scoop mounting.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/bracelocation.png

Using a hand jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade or a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, cut along the inside of the template line (remove the crosshatched area). Do not cut bracing. You should end up with a hole as seen below.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/tabscut.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/cutdone.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/tabs.png

Test fit the scoop to check alignment. If necessary, widen the bolt holes for proper fit.

=== Installing the Scoop ===

After painting the scoop, apply the 1/8" by 4' rubber gasket to the groove on the underside. Place the round washers on the mounting studs. Apply the 8" × 3/8" strips to the bracket top surface where it meets the hood to strengthen and prevent vibration. The 2.5" × 1" strips wrap around the odd-shaped "W" areas as shown:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/hoodscoop/200zr/rubber.png

=== Instruction Document ===

Though he is no longer producing these scoops, Gary Molitor has given us permission to provide his install document for assistance in installing stock or other manufacturers' scoops. The document is a PDF file.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]- 300zx turbo scoop Images by onefast87
* 200ZR scoop instructions and template provided by: Gary Molitor

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/history php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 300ZX Evolution|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/history.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/history.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 300ZX Evolution ==

![1984-1986 Z31 Emblem](images/Emblums/emblem84-86.jpg)

The Nissan 300ZX came about as an evolution in the line of Z-Cars, started in 1970 by Nissan under the brand Datsun in the USA with the introduction of the 240Z. The 240Z and the rest of the Z-Cars were designed with a simple concept: To make an inexpensive and dependable, yet sporty and enjoyable car. There were many cars that came along with offers of many option packages and attractive gimmicks; however, with these gimmicks came a major increase in price and a decrease in fundamental areas, such as agility and value. Who in their right mind is going to pay tens of thousands of dollars for a sports car so loaded to the brim with pointless extras that nothing else on the car is worth anything? It should not be at all surprising that many lines of sports cars have gone by the wayside because they were not profitable. The Z-Cars, however, enjoyed a long run, starting in 1970 with the 240Z and evolving as necessary in order to remain successful.

It should be noted that in 1984, having encountered a negative association with the brand name Datsun due to their participation in World War II, the company officially dropped the brand Datsun and used their name Nissan. And in that same year, gave birth to the 300ZX.

The Z31 was the first Z to stray away from the straight six motor. It was offered with many different engine options. In the US market it was offered with the VG30E and VG30ET 3.0 L V6. In the JDM market, the Z31 also came with a 2.0 liter motor. The 200Z, 200ZG, and 200ZS used the VG20ET motor while the 200ZR had the RB20DET. Other than the 300ZX, the only other factory Z31 variant to use the VG30DE engine is the 300ZR.

The Japanese 300ZX Turbo was not subject to the tough emissions regulations found in the US, allowing it to produce 230 hp (172 kW), outperforming not only its North American counterpart, but the 2.0 liter Z31s as well—their engines only made 170-180 hp. This was to "make the most of the local taxation laws."

==== Timeline: ====

==== 1984: ====

-
First year of production,
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Carz/1984_Datsun_300ZX_Turbo.jpg special 50th anniversary edition released]. In the USDM market the Anniversary edition had badges on front fenders, different side skirts,[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/84ae.jpg 16-inch wheels with gold accents]instead of[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/1984-1985%20turbo.jpg 15-inch standard wheels.]In[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/84%20AE/aus%2084ae.jpg Australia, the 50th AE]was also offered with the same silver over black with gold pinstripe like the American version but was offered in only a 2+2 non-turbo version. It had the rear spoiler with digital dash and cloth seats. It had the 50th AE badge on the car but it is located just behind the driver's door on the pillar. -
All euro market Z31 cars have half clear / half amber front turn / parking lights (part numbers 26120-07P00 and 26125-07P00). Also, the headlights are
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/200zr/headlights.jpg one large headlight]rather than a headlight and small fog light used in the USDM markets. The JDM front turn signals also were dual bulb units but the lenses were all amber.

==== 1985: ====

* Coolant line added to turbos, increasing reliability
-
Body stayed the same with the exception of
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Carz/85rear.JPG smoked tail lights]on turbo models - Datsun Badge was dropped from hatch

==== 1986: ====

* Hood scoop discontinued
* Power seats now standard on turbo models, optional on non-turbo models
-
All models got new
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/86non-turbo.jpg 5 lug wheels]and hubs, turbo models received[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/86turbo.jpg 16-inch wheels]with the same design as the 84AE. -
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/MysilverZ/7.jpg Fenders were flared and side skirts added in the US market]. Other markets kept the early fenders. -
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/MysilverZ/4.jpg Wing added standard on all models, included third brake light in the US market]

==== 1987: ====

-
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Carz/300_Front.jpg Nose takes on a more rounded shape]
* Hood design was changed to conform with new nose shape
* Composite headlights were introduced, fog lamps relocated to lower bumper
-
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Carz/87rear.JPG Rear taillights are also redesigned]into a single bar across the rear and license plate is moved to the rear bumper. - Turbo models receive a new limited-slip differential late in the year
* Turbo wheels are a
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/87turbo.jpg charcoal color]whereas the non-turbo are silver - Vented rear brake rotors added on all models

==== 1988: ====

-
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Carz/88ss.jpg Special SS (Shiro) Edition]released; only 1000 made, making it one of the rarest Z-cars ever; Featured a special pearl-white code #234 paint, special[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Seats/SSseat.jpg Recaro racing-style bucket seats], analog dash, matching[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/shirowheel.JPG white turbo wheels], Exclusive[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Carz/88SSlip.jpg “European” Front Air Dam]. Adjustable suspension and most power options removed for weight reduction. - HP numbers in both non-turbo and turbo cars increased 5 HP as the W-series motors with floating wrist pins and extra cooling passages were introduced.

==== 1989: ====

* Minor trim changes made
* Two new colors were made available; one of these is the pearl white offered on the 88 Shiro model.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Images provided by: Redare and Chris86NA2T
* Other Items List By: kregel of
[http://www.z31.com Z31.com]
* Video By:
[https://www.youtube.com/@makenmodel Make + Model]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/heatercorereplacement php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 2 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Heater Core Replacement|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/heatercorereplacement.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/heatercorereplacement.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Heater Core Replacement ==

Ok, here is the deal. You come out to start your car and you find a puddle on your passenger floor board. Your windows are full of condensation and you smell anti-freeze. Well your heater core just bit the dust. This is not a hard thing to fix but a time consuming item to fix. I replaced my leaking core in about 5 hours.

==== Items you will need ====

'''#2 Phillips screwdriver''''''#3 Phillips screwdriver''''''3/8" ratchet''''''2 small flat head screwdrivers''''''10mm socket''''''13mm socket''''''19mm socket''''''3" long extension''''''Steering wheel puller (Optional)'''-
'''Heater Core'''-
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Heatercore/Nissan%20core.jpg Nissan Part #27140-01P00] - Autozone Part #399386

-
'''High temperature foam weather stripping''''''High temperature silicon sealant''''''OE firewall gasket'''(If needed) (Nissan Part# 92565-01P00)

==== Other Items You may want to replace ====

* Actuator 1 (mixing box) – Nissan Part #27731-01P10
* Actuator 2 (mixing box) – Nissan Part #27731-01P10
* Actuator 3 (near fan housing) – Nissan Part #27730-01P00
* Water Hose 1 – Nissan Part #92410-01P00
* Water Hose 2 – Nissan Part #92400-01P02
* Water Hose 3 – Nissan Part #92406-01P04
* Water Hose 4 – Nissan Part #27144-01P00
* Water Hose 5 – Nissan Part #27146-01P00
* 6 Clamps – Nissan Part #08723-12800

There may be other items but this is the basics.

==== Removal of the Heater Core ====

The first thing to do is to remove the
[[Z31/DashboardRemoval php|steering wheel and dashboard]].
Now start by removing the vent tubes, starting with the defroster venting at the top of the dash. There are 2 screws holding it in on the driver side door vent.

Next, move to the lower driver side vents. There is one 10mm nut holding these two vents to the dash support. Undo this and then remove the one screw holding the door vent tube together to the door vent and pull them out.

Now on to the passenger side floor vent. Remove the one screw that holds the two-part vent together and pull out.

Next is the passenger side face vent. There will be a 10mm bolt that holds this in on a bracket. Remove the bolt and remove the vent tube from the car.

The next vent to remove is the center manifold. There is a Phillips screw that holds this to the heater core box. It is on the underside near one of the vacuum actuators. Remove the screw and pull the manifold far enough to get to the actuator and remove the screws to it. Now pull the vent out of the car from the top.

All this is just to see the heater core.

Now that we can see the heater core box, we need to make room to pull it out from the car. First is to remove the dashboard supports at the center of the car. There are two bolts and two nuts per side, all 10mm. Remove these and set aside.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Heatercore/Centerbracketssmall.png

Next we need to drop the steering column. Remove the two 13mm bolts. These are hard to see as they are recessed into the dash support. Use a small socket on a wobble and a short extension to get these out.

Once the steering column is dropped, remove the wiring harness mounting clips and unplug the harness at both edges of the cross member. Next, remove the harness.

Now you can remove the remaining 3 bolts on each side of the dashboard support and pull the support out of the car.

On the heater core box, you will see a few vacuum lines coming to it. Unplug them and mark so you know where each came from. One is from the vacuum canister under the hood and the other is from the floor vent switch on the driver side kick panel.

The heater core box is held in by two 10mm bolts and two Phillips head screws. The screws are very hard to remove as they are hard to get to with enough force to break them loose. The bolts are much easier. Remove all 4 of these, then undo the clamp screw that holds the core box to the AC box. Once this is done, move under the hood to disconnect the coolant lines.

The last thing for removal is to disconnect the coolant lines. Once these are disconnected, pull the heater core box out of the car and set it on a workbench.

==== Installing the New Core ====

OE heater cores are expensive and becoming difficult to get a hold of. I used an aftermarket Autozone heater core (part #399386). The heater core is held into the heater core box by a small plastic bracket with two screws in it. Remove these screws and pull out your old core. Be careful, as some coolant may still be in the core.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Heatercore/hc6s.jpg

As you may notice, the two cores may not be exactly the same size. This is because the aftermarket cores are designed to fit other vehicles as well as the Z31.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Heatercore/hc2s.jpg

When installing the new core into the heater core box, you will want to apply some high temperature foam weather stripping to make the core fit correctly.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Heatercore/hc3s.jpg

Here’s a view of the assembled box. I installed new hoses and clamps. Additionally, the OE firewall gasket was replaced prior to installation.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Heatercore/hc7s.jpg

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Images provided by: Redare and Chris86NA2T
* Video By: XenonZcar

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/frontcontrolarms php

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XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Front Control Arm Replacement and Bushing Upgrade|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/frontcontrolarms.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/frontcontrolarms.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Front Control Arm Replacement and Bushing Upgrade ==

Want to firm up the front suspension and get rid of those rubber bushings? You can easily upgrade to polyurethane bushings, which are available through many aftermarket suppliers.

There are other changes you can do while working with front control arms, as there were two versions of the front control arms. The 1987-1989 300ZX models came from the factory with longer front control arms, adding an extra 10mm for a wider track width. You can use this extra width on earlier models (1984-1986) to add about -5 degrees of negative camber to the wheels, helping with turn-in grip.

You can also achieve the same by swapping the early strut housing for the later 87-89 models and gain camber this way—without the expense of camber plates. Below is a picture of the early (top) control arm versus the late (bottom) control arm:

=== Parts Needed ===

It is reccomeneded to replace all your suspension bushings for the best results. You can do so using the total kit below, Or if you want to replace just the control arm bushings the part numbers are listed below:## Tools Needed

* 13mm Wrench
* 14mm Wrench
* 17mm Wrench
* 19mm Wrench
* 12mm Socket
* 13mm Socket
* 14mm Socket
* 15mm Socket
* 17mm Socket
* 22mm Socket
* Ratchet
* Prybar
* Press or Vice
* Dead Blow Hammer
* Jack and Jackstands
* Torch

=== Control Arm Removal ===

-
Start by jacking the front of the car up using the lifting points and then securing it with jack stands. Remove the front wheels and then the calipers, wiring them up out of the way. Be careful not to damage the hoses. -
Begin removing the control arms. First, remove the sway-bar end-link from the arm (14mm nut and bolt). -
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the 19mm crown nut on the tie rod end. Once loosened, give it a good crack with a dead blow hammer to knock it from the steering knuckle. Once loose, remove the crown nut and the tie rod from the knuckle. -
Next, remove the tension rod nuts on the bottom of the arm (17mm). -
Remove the two 17mm bolts on the bottom of the strut that attach the strut to the steering knuckle. You will then need to remove the knuckle from the bottom of the strut by hitting it with a hammer sharply. It will pop free. PB blaster or another type of penetrating oil will help with this. -
Finally, remove the 22mm bolt holding the arm to the crossmember. Once this bolt is out, the control arm will be free to come out completely.

=== Bushing Removal and Replacement ===

* With the control arms out of the car, it’s time to remove the bushings. The best way is to use a torch to burn the rubber out of the control arm, which will leave the outer sleeve needed for the new bushings.
* Once the rubber is burned out, clean up the outer sleeve. A Dremel with a flap wheel works quickly, but you can also use sandpaper and a scotch brite pad.
* Using the supplied grease, lubricate the sleeve in the control arm and press in the new bushings.

=== Reassemble ===

Reassemble the front suspension the same as it came apart using the Torque specs listed below.### Torque Specs (Ft-lb)

| Component | Torque Spec (Ft-lb) |
|---|---|
| Control arm to cross member bolt | 69 – 83 |
| Tension rod nuts | 65 – 80 |
| Steering knuckle to strut housing | 53 – 72 |
| Sway bar end link | 12 – 16 |
| Caliper slide pins | 16 – 23 |
| Caliper bracket | 53 – 72 |

=== Sources Used ===

* Written by: XenonZcar
[[Z31/z31fsm php|Torque Specs from: 1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/engines php

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{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Engine Information and Specifications|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/engines.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/engines.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Engine Information and Specifications ==

![Title](images/Engine/Title.jpg)

The 1984-1989 Z31 came with five different engine packages. In the North America market the Z31 only came with the VG30E and VG30ET motors.

In the Domestic market (Japan), the Z31 was offered with the following motors: VG30DE, VG30ET, VG20ET, and RB20DET.

The Euro market also only was offered the VG30E and VG30ET motors, but they did offer a higher lift cam known in the US market as the Nismo cam.

=== VG30 Series Specifications ===

![VG30E cutaway](images/Engine/VG30E_cut_away.jpg)

==== USDM United States Domestic Market ====

===== VG30E Specs: =====

| Spec | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Displacement | 2960 cc (181 cu. in) | |
| Bore and Stroke | 87.0 X 83.0 | Can be bored to 90mm safely. Breakthrough at 3.78" (per defrag010 of Z31performance.com) |
| Compression Ratio | 9.0:1 | |
| Horsepower | 160hp at 5200 rpm | 165hp at 5200 rpm on late W-series (1988-1989) |
| Torque | 24.0 kg-m (173ft-lbs) at 4000 rpm |

===== Early 1984 to 5/1987 VG30ET USDM Specs: =====

1984-1987 turbo cars came with a Nissan made [http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html Garrett T3 Turbocharger].

The engine was either type A or type B (1984 to April 1987), with press fit wrist pins.

| Spec | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Displacement | 2960 cc (181 cu. in) | |
| Bore and Stroke | 87.0 X 83.0 | |
| Compression Ratio | 7.8:1 | Pre W-series |
| Horsepower | 200hp at 5200 rpm | |
| Torque | 1.4 kg-m (227ft-lbs) at 3600 rpm |

===== Late 5/1987-1989 VG30ET USDM Specs: =====

1988+ turbo cars came with a Nissan made [http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html Garrett T25 Turbocharger].

The W-series engines featured redesigned water jackets, fully floating piston wrist pins, and more power.

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Displacement | 2960 cc (181 cu. in) |
| Bore and Stroke | 87.0 X 83.0 |
| Compression Ratio | 8.3:1 |
| Horsepower | 205 hp at 5200 rpm |
| Torque | 1.4 kg-m (227ft-lbs) at 3600 rpm |

==== JDM Japanese Domestic Market ====

===== VG30ET Specs: =====

The VG30ET was the same as the USDM motors but made about 5 less horsepower due to emission standards.

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Displacement | 2960 cc (181 cu. in) |
| Bore and Stroke | 87.0 X 83.0 |
| Compression Ratio | 7.8:1 |
| Horsepower | 195 hp at 5200 rpm |
| Torque | 31.5 kg-m (227 ft-lbs) at 3600 rpm |

==== European Market ====

===== VG30ET Specs: =====

The European models made 230 hp (170 kW) in turbo form due to a better [[Z31/camspecs|camshaft profile]] (Nismo camshafts). Some models were also equipped without catalytic converters.

=== VG20ET Series Specifications ===

![VG20ET engine](images/Engine/VG20ET.jpg)

The VG20ET offered in the Japanese 200Z, 200ZG, and 200ZS was basically a VG30ET with the bore and stroke decreased. The turbo had two different settings: closed at low speeds (improving response), open at high speeds (improving flow), with a maximum angle of 27-degrees and A/R ranging from 0.21 to 0.77.

Though the intake and exhaust manifolds look similar to the VG30ET units, they do not interchange due to the smaller deck height of the VG20.

===== VG20ET Specs: =====

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Displacement | 1998 cc (122 cu. in) |
| Bore and Stroke | 78.0 X 69.7 |
| Compression Ratio | 8.0:1 |
| Horsepower | 170 hp at 6000 rpm |
| Torque | 22.0 kg-m (159 ft-lbs) at 4000 rpm |

=== VG30DE Series Specifications ===

![VG30DE engine](images/Engine/300zrvg30de.jpg)

The VG30DE was an early version of the motor used in the later 90+ 300ZX. It featured a slightly different block, dual overhead cam heads, and 24 valves with Nissan's own variable valve timing (NVCV) for increased high RPM efficiency. The production blocks and heads were used successfully in Nissan GTP ZX-Turbo and NPT-90 race cars (IMSA GT Champions 3 years).

The easiest way to spot a VG30DE block is there are only 8 head bolts vs the VG30E(T) having 13.

===== VG30DE Specs: =====

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Displacement | 2960 cc (181 cu. in) |
| Bore and Stroke | 87.0 X 83.0 |
| Compression Ratio | 10.0:1 |
| Horsepower | 190 hp at 6000 rpm |
| Torque | 25.0 kg-m (181 ft-lbs) at 4400 rpm |

=== RB20DET Series Specifications ===

![RB20DET engine](images/Engine/RB20DET.jpg)

The 200ZR had the last straight six offered in a Z, the RB20DET. These early twin-cam RBs (identified by their red ribbed cam cover) run a relatively low 8.5:1 static compression ratio, 24 valve DOHC, and a ceramic wheeled turbocharger with an air-to-air intercooler fed by the 200ZR’s hood scoop. It also used a NICS dual-stage twin-runner ignition system, a hot-wire airflow meter, and direct-fire ignition.

The RB20DET has a cast iron block and aluminum head. All RB engines have belt-driven camshafts and all cam lobes move only one valve.

===== RB20DET Specs: =====

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Displacement | 1998 cc (122 cu. in) |
| Bore and Stroke | 78.0 X 69.7 |
| Compression Ratio | 8.5:1 |
| Horsepower | 180 hp at 6400 rpm |
| Torque | 23.0 kg-m (174 ft-lbs) at 3600 rpm |

===== RB20DET Camshaft Specs: =====

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Duration Intake | 248° |
| Duration Exhaust | 240° |
| Lift Intake | 7.8mm |
| Lift Exhaust | 7.8mm |

=== Sources Used ===

* 1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual
* VG30DE Image is from RichZilla,
[https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.z31club.com/ https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.z31club.com/]
* RB20DET information from 1986 JDM Dealer Brochure
* VG20ET information from 1984 JDM Dealer Brochure

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/droppingresistors php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 3 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Dropping Resistor Install|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/droppingresistors.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/droppingresistors.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Dropping Resistor Install ==

This is by no means a perfect solution to adapting an ECU with injector drivers designed for high-impedance injectors (88-89) to run low-impedance injectors (84-87). However, it appears to work well for everyone nonetheless. By now you should have already figured out which ''WARNING'' - Do this diagnosis/mods at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.[[Z31/ECUdifferences|ECU and injectors as well as oxygen sensor]] you are using as well as [[Z31/Rewirefuelinjectors php|re-wired your injectors to factory specs]].

=== Tools and Items Needed ===

=== Process ===

Disconnect the battery and remove the ECU from the passenger side kick-panel and remove the connectors.
Pins '''101–106''' lead to the injector wires; you need to solder resistors in line on each one of these wires.
The bottom connector (as the ECU sits in the car) contains pins 101–106 on the end of the connector opposite the locking tab.
Notice the wires here, they are green in my harness (and most likely yours also).

Your resistors will probably look something like this:

Wrap some tape around the resistor itself and bend the leads around 180 degrees. Tin the leads and secure them to the resistor in the middle using a zip tie and/or electrical tape. I soldered little sections of wire onto mine to make the installation/removal process easier. Do it however you see fit, just make sure you don't have any chance of a short:

Locate the 12-prong plug at the ECU and clip the green wires a couple inches from the connector, tin the wires (notice where mine were clipped and re-soldered):

Solder the resistors inline, heat shrink the ends and then wrap with electrical tape:

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Writen by: Jason Butts -AKA- Jason84NA2T

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/droppingresistors

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 2 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Dropping Resistor Install to run an 88-89 ECU with low-Impedance injectors|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/droppingresistors.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/droppingresistors.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

This is by no means a perfect solution to adapting an ECU with injector drivers designed for high-impedance injectors (88-89) to run low-impedance injectors (84-87). However, it appears to work well for everyone nonetheless. By now you should have already figured out which [[Z31/ECUdifferences|ECU and injectors as well as oxygen sensor]] you are using as well as [[Z31/Rewirefuelinjectors php|re-wired your injectors to factory specs]].

'''Parts and tools needed:'''

* Wire strippers
* Six 10W 6-10ohm wire wound resistors (available from
[http://www.digikey.com Digi-key],[http://www.jimwolftechnology.com JWT], among others) - Electrical tape
* Heat-shrink tubing
* Soldering iron and 60/40 rosin core solder

'''Process:'''

Disconnect the battery and remove the ECU from the passenger side kick-panel and remove the connectors. Pins 101-106 lead to the injector wires; you need to solder resistors in line on each one of these wires. The bottom connector (as the ECU sits in the car) contains pins 101-106 on the end of the connector opposite the locking tab. Notice the wires here, they are green in my harness (and most likely yours also).

Your resistors will probably look something like this:

Wrap some tape around the resistor itself and bend the leads around 180 degrees. Tin the leads and secure them to the resistor in the middle using a zip tie and/or electrical tape. I soldered little sections of wire onto mine to make the installation/removal process easier. Do it however you see fit, just make sure you don't have any chance of a short:

Locate the 12 prong plug at the ECCU and Clip the Green wires a couple inches from the connector, tin the wires (notice where mine were clipped and re-soldered):

Solder the resistors inline, heat shrink the ends and then wrap with electrical tape:

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/digitaltoanalog php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 3 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Digital to Analog Conversion|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/digitaltoanalog.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/digitaltoanalog.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Digital to Analog Conversion ==

Many Z31 owners experience problems with their digital instrument cluster. Common issues include bad transistors, faulty solder joints, and poor connections. Even after repairs, these clusters often fail again.

One of the biggest drawbacks of the digital cluster is visibility. When driving in bright sunlight, especially with T-tops off, the display can be nearly impossible to read. Living in Arizona, this became a major issue for me, so I decided to swap to an analog instrument cluster.

This isn’t a particularly complex job, but it does require time and patience. The example here covers installing an '''84–86 analog cluster''' into a '''50th AE'''. Installing an '''87–89 cluster''' follows a similar process.

Note:

* You will lose the digital compass and accelerometer functions.
* The automatic climate control system is separate and requires significantly more work to swap.

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Tools Needed ===

* 10mm socket
* 12mm socket
* 14mm socket
* socket wrench
* various length extensions
* #2 Phillips screwdriver
* #3 Phillips screwdriver
* Small flathead screwdriver
* Steering wheel puller

=== Parts Needed ===

* Main Instrument cluster assembly (speed-o, tach, fuel, temp and warning lights)
* Center pod cluster assembly (Z31 fiche page 3-L3)
* Cluster/dash wiring harness (24013-01P05)
* Speedometer cable (25050-01P03)
* Analog fuel level sending unit.
* Zip Ties
* Cluster rear trim (25031 = 24812-01P03)
* Clear plastic cover (25010M = 25813-01P00)
* Cluster front trim (25010 = 25811-01P00)
* Analog Oil Pressure Sender

=== Process ===

[[Z31/DashboardRemoval php|Remove the dashboard]].- Remove the lower ducting on the driver's side. This is the large duct that feeds the left face vent.
-
Remove the
[[Z31/Switchpodbulbs|side combo switches]]by removing the 10mm nut on the back and bottom of each side. Carefully pry the top down and out. - Remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard.
* Remove the passenger side ducting from the dashboard.
* Remove the wiring harness from the dashboard. Try to save the retaining clips if possible.
* Install the new wiring harness. If retaining clips broke, zip ties can be used as substitutes.
* Reinstall the passenger side ducting.
* From inside the car, feed the speedometer cable through the dash support brace and out through the firewall hole. Ensure the seal is good.
* Connect the cable to the original pinion assembly at the transmission.
* Install the new instrument cluster and cluster switches in the dashboard.
* Reinstall the dashboard, leaving off the lower driver's side, the column switches, and the steering wheel for now.
* Reach up from below the dash and connect the speedometer cable to the instrument cluster.
-
Test the cluster:
* Turn the key to the
'''ON'''position and check that all warning lights illuminate. - Start the car and verify the tachometer works.

* Turn the key to the
* Reinstall the driver’s air duct and finish the lower dash installation.
* Reinstall the combo switches and steering wheel.

'''Tip:''' Labeling connectors and taking reference photos during disassembly makes reassembly much easier.

=== Sources Used ===

* [[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1989 Nissan 300ZX USDM Factory Service Manual]]
* [https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/ Nissan Parts Deal]
* Written by: Paul Hillman (AZ-Zbum)

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/differentialinfo php

2026-05-17T01:59:28Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 2 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Differential Specifications and Variations|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/differentialinfo.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/differentialinfo.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Differential Specifications and Variations ==

There were '''11 different differentials''' offered in the Z31. They are all '''R200 models''' made by Hitachi (most likely). The differences are as follows:

=== Gear Sets Offered ===

| Model | Type | Ratio | Ring Gear / Pinion | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| USDM 300ZX 84-87 NA | R200 Open | 3.700:1 | 37T / 10T | |
| USDM 300ZX 88-89 NA | R200 Open | 3.900:1 | 39T / 10T | |
| USDM 300ZX 84-86 T & JDM 84-89 T | R200 Open | 3.545:1 | 39T / 11T | |
| USDM 300ZX 87-89 T | R200 Clutch LSD* | 3.700:1 | 37T / 10T | |
| USDM 300ZX 88SS | R200 Viscous LSD** | 3.700:1 | 37T / 10T | |
| EURO 300ZX Turbo (Europe) | R200 Open | 3.364:1 | 37T / 11T | 4 spider gears |
| EURO 300ZX Non-Turbo (Europe) | R200 Open | 3.700:1 | 37T / 10T | 2 spider gears |
| EURO 300ZX Turbo (Europe) | R200 Open | 3.545:1 | 39T / 11T | 4 spider gears |
| EURO 300ZX Turbo (Middle East) | R200 Open | 3.545:1 | 39T / 11T | 4 spider gears |
| EURO 300ZX Non-Turbo (Middle East) | R200 Open | 3.700:1 | 37T / 10T | 4 spider gears |
| EURO 300ZX Turbo (Elsewhere) | R200 Open | 3.545:1 | 39T / 11T | 2 spider gears |
| EURO 300ZX Non-Turbo (Elsewhere) | R200 Open | 3.700:1 | 37T / 10T | 4 spider gears |
| JDM 300ZX Manual | R200 Open | 3.545:1 | 39T / 11T | 2 spider gears |
| JDM 200Z ZS ZG Manual & Auto | R200 Open | 4.111:1 | 37T / 9T | 2 spider gears |
| JDM 200ZR Manual | R200 Viscous LSD | 4.375:1 | 35T / 8T | 4 spider gears |
| JDM 200ZR Auto | R200 Viscous LSD | 4.625:1 | 37T / 8T | 4 spider gears |
| JDM 300ZR Manual & Auto | R200 Clutch LSD | 4.111:1 | 37T / 9T | 4 spider gears |

* Clutch LSD | ** Viscous LSD

==== Additional Notes ====

'''USDM Cars Only:'''Only 87 Turbo cars produced after 04/87 were equipped with LSD. Earlier models had open differentials. Canada did not receive LSD until the 1988 model year.'''USDM Cars Only:'''The 1988 Shiro Special was the only model to feature the viscous LSD from factory.'''LSD Identification:'''Factory-equipped LSD units typically came with a finned rear differential cover, making it an easy visual identifier on USDM Z31s.'''EURO Market Models:'''European-market cars came with an external differential oil cooler from the factory. This system included an electric pump, oil cooler, fluid lines, and a temperature switch.

=== Driveshaft/Differential Yoke/Flange Differences ===

There were two different yokes used on the Z31 models depending on the production year:

'''Early Models:'''Featured a rectangular flange and bolt pattern.'''Late Models:'''Came with a circular flange and square bolt pattern.

![Z31 Differential Yoke Flanges](images/Differential/Diff-flanges.jpg)

=== Diff Fluid Recommendations (USDM) ===

'''R200 Capacity:'''3-7/8 pt.'''Open Diff:'''API GL-5'''Clutch LSD:'''API GL-5, SAE 80W-90 approved for Nissan LSD'''Viscous LSD:'''API GL-5, SAE 80W-90

=== Diff Fluid Recommendations (EURO) ===

| Location of Sale | Oil Capacity (Liters / IMP PT) | Oil Type |
|---|---|---|
| Europe | 2.1 (3 3/4) | API GL-5 |
| Middle East | 1.8 (3 1/8) | API GL-5 |
| Other | 1.3 (2 1/4) | API GL-5 |

=== Sources Used ===

* [[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1989 Nissan 300ZX USDM Factory Service Manual]]
* [[Z31/z31fsm php|EURO Market Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]- 1984 Nissan Fairlady Z Product Brochure
* 1987 Nissan Fairlady Z Product Brochure

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/crossmemberbushings php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=XenonZcar|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/crossmemberbushings.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/crossmemberbushings.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Rear Cross Member Bushing Replacement Clunk from Rear ==

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Rear%20Crossmember%20bushings/badbushing%20RED300Z.jpg

A common problem found on the Z31 is a Clunk from the rear end of the car when shifting gears or accelerating/decelerating. This is usually caused by worn sub frame bushings and/or differential mount.

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

== Parts Needed ==

You can choose to replace the parts with stock rubber or upgrade to the polyurethane replacements. Note: The polyurethane replacements are less expensive and will last longer.

=== Stock Rubber Parts ===

-
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insul-diff-mtg~55476-01p10.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1984&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( 1984-1986 Nissan Part # 55476-01P10 - Insulator, Differential Mounting (No Longer Available)]) -
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insulator-diffe~55476-01p20.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1984&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( 1987-1989 Nissan Part # 55476-01P20 - Insulator, Differential Mounting (No Longer Available)]) -
[https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insulatr-membr~55466-01p10.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&year=1984&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( (x2) Nissan Part # 55466-01P10 - Insulator, Member Mounting])

=== Polyurethane Parts ===

-
[https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/14101?srsltid=AfmBOornW9AWvRnkdq-KVb0idVt36mAnoVRyafqmF4UlYjOlQK8CcqTz Prothane Polyurethane Rear Cross Member Bushings Part Number:14101]– $65.54 from[https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com Prothane Suspension Parts] -
[https://apexengineered.com/shop/z31-300zx/differential-mount-bushing/ Differential Mount Bushing Z31 300ZX]– $195.00 – $215.00 from[https://apexengineered.com/shop/ Apex Engineered]

=== Tools Needed ===

* Floor Jack
* Jack Stands
* Breaker Bar
* Various Metric Sockets
* Ratchet
* Hacksaw
* Press
* Paint Pen

== Procedure ==

* Jack the car up and secure on jack stands.
* Pull the wheels off the rear.
* Place a floor jack under the differential housing to support it.
* Remove the two nuts securing the differential mount to the rear housing.
* Remove the two bolts and two nuts holding the differential mount to the body. The mount should now be free.
* Replace the old mount with the new one and tighten:
* Mount-to-body bolts:
'''22–29 ft-lbs''' - Mount-to-body nuts:
'''43–58 ft-lbs''' - Mount-to-differential carrier nuts:
'''43–58 ft-lbs'''

* Mount-to-body bolts:
* Remove the rear cross member by disconnecting the rear control arms. This is the hardest part.
* Remove the rear sway bar (4 bolts). If bushings are worn, replace them now.
* Disconnect the emergency brake cables from the calipers and main cable.
* Remove the rear control arms from the cross member:
* Each side has one regular bolt/nut and one eccentric bolt/nut.
* Mark the eccentric bolt position with a paint pen before removal for alignment.
* Torque spec:
'''72–87 ft-lbs'''

* Support the differential and remove the 4 bolts/nuts holding it to the cross member.
* Remove the 2 nuts holding the cross member to the body (torque spec:
'''58–80 ft-lbs'''). - Remove the 4 nuts holding the cross member stays. The cross member can now be removed.
-

* Press out old bushings and install new ones.

This is what they usually look like when removed.

* Use a cold chisel to punch out the metal sleeve of the bushing.

* Clean everything thoroughly.

'''Assembly is reverse of disassembly.'''

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Bad Bushing picture by: RED300Z
* All other pictures by: Neil86T

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/clutchhydrepairs php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=XenonZcar|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/clutchhydrepairs.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/clutchhydrepairs.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Clutch System Issues ==

![](images/clutchsystem/clutchsystem.jpg)

=== Inspecting the Clutch Hydraulic System ===

The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Start with the '''clutch master cylinder''', which is mounted next to the brake master cylinder on the firewall. It's smaller, but operates in a similar way.
Check around the firewall and also inside the driver’s footwell—worn internal seals may leak into one or both areas.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/clutchsystem/Master.jpg

The second place to check is the '''slave cylinder''', located under the car on the passenger side of the transmission. Inspect the small rubber boot for moisture—if it’s wet with fluid, the slave cylinder needs to be replaced.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/clutchsystem/slave.jpg

When one cylinder fails, the other often isn’t far behind. It's strongly recommended to '''replace both the master and slave cylinders as a pair''' to avoid future issues.

One more component to be aware of: Nissan installed a '''clutch fluid dampener''' between the master and slave cylinders. This was designed to soften clutch engagement feel.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/clutchsystem/dampener.jpg

Many Z31 owners choose to remove the dampener for improved clutch pedal feel. A popular mod is to replace the dampener with a '''rear outer brake line from a 1982 280ZX (S130)'''. This not only eliminates the dampener but also simplifies the bleeding process by reducing components.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/clutchsystem/hose.jpg

1982 280ZX Rear Outer Brake Line – Replaces Clutch Dampener

== Bleeding Process ==

=== Items Needed ===

* DOT 3 Brake Fluid
* 10mm Box or Line Wrench
* DORMAN H380147 Rear Outer Brake Line (280ZX)
* A Friend

=== Process ===

* Top off the clutch master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid.
* Connect a clear hose to the bleeder nipple on the clutch dampener (if equipped), and submerge the other end in a container filled with brake fluid.
* Have your friend pump the clutch pedal several times and then hold it down.
* With the clutch pedal held, crack open the bleeder valve to release pressure and fluid.
* Close the bleeder valve.
* Repeat steps 3–5 until no more air bubbles are seen in the fluid exiting the hose.
* Once the dampener is bled, repeat the entire process at the slave cylinder bleeder valve.

Hope this helps with getting your Clutch feeling good on your Z31

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Clutch slave cylinder Picture by -
[http://www.rockauto.com Rockauto.com] - 280zx brake hose Picture by -
[http://www.rockauto.com Rockauto.com]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/basics

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 27 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Basic Information|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/basics.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/basics.html|fetched=2026-05-16}}

'''Z31 Basic Information'''

Here you will find the most basic of Z31 information

* [[Z31/50thae php|1984 50th Anniversary Edition]]
* [[Z31/shiro|1988 300zx Shiro Special]]
* [[Z31/buyerguide php|300ZX Buyer's Guide]]
* [[Z31/Swaybarinfo|Anti-Sway Bar Differences]]
* [[Z31/camspecs|Camshaft Specs]]
* [[Z31/colorchart php|Color Code and Trim Chart]]
* [[Z31/computerpinout|Computer Pin-out]]
* [[Z31/Crankpulleydifferences|Crank Shaft Pulley Differences]]
* [[Z31/Vininfo php|Deciphering your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)and other Model ID Plates]]
* [[Z31/differentialinfo|Differential Specifications and Variations]]
* [[Z31/Driveshaftinfo php|Drive Shaft Specifications and Differences]]
* [[Z31/ECUdifferences|Fuel Injector Differences, ECU and O2 sensor and Interchange Information]]
* [[Z31/Relayandfuses php|Fuse and Relay Locations]]
* ''General Z31 Specifications'' (no archive)
* [[Z31/history php|General Z-car History]]
* [https://dev.z31library.com/extras_archive/www.thezenthusiast.com/wheelshow.html Inqui-Z-tor's Wheel Show (Visual Guide to Z31-compatible Wheels)]
* Interior Differences (Coming Soon)
* [[Z31/Lampreplacement php|Light Bulb Replacement Guide]]
* [[Z31/Parts php|List of Commonly Requested Parts]]
* List of Nuts and Bolts (Coming Soon)
* [[Z31/louvers php|The Definitive Guide To z31 Louvers]]
* [[Z31/modeldifferences php|Model Variations of the Z31]]
* [[Z31/straman php|R. Straman 300ZX]]
* [[Z31/sensors php|Sensor Information]]
* [[Z31/springs php|Suspension Spring Information]]
* [[Z31/transmissions|Transmission Specs and General info]]
* [[Z31/engines php|Engine Specifications]]
* [[Z31/FISC php|Voluntary Service Campaign Information regarding the VG30E and VG30ET fuel injectors]]
* [[Z31/Wseriesmain php|W-Series Engine Differences]]
* [[Z31/warninglamps php|Warning Lamps]]
* [[Z31/Wheels|Wheel Specifications]]

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/autotomanualswap php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 3 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/autotomanualswap.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/autotomanualswap.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap ==

These instructions are based on swapping the A/T from an 89T for a 5-spd from an 88T. It will work very well for pre 87 cars except for the electronics. Some of the stuff is for turbo cars only and I'm sure you'll find out as you do the swap.

''WARNING'' - Do this diagnosis/mods at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Transmission Specs ===

| Category | Model / Notes |
|---|---|
| Manual Transmissions | |
| 84–89 Z31 NA | FS5W71C — Nissan 5spd (medium) |
| 84–86 Z31 Turbo | FS5R90A — Borg Warner T-5 5spd (weakest) |
| 87–89 Z31 Turbo | FS5R30A — Nissan Turbo 5spd (strongest) |
| Automatic Transmissions | |
| 1984 only | 4N71B |
| 1986–89 | E4N71B |
| A/T Model Code Number | |
| N/A | X8203 |
| Turbo | X8206 |
| Torque Converter Assembly | |
| N/A | GXA |
| Turbo | G |

=== Advice Before Starting ===

-
Download and read the AT and MT sections of the
[[Z31/z31fsm php|Factory Service Manual]]. -
Make every attempt to get a transmission from the same model car, otherwise you will have to modify the drive shaft flange for it to fit correctly as the early 1984-1986 cars have a different Differential Flange then the 1987-1989 years. More infomation about the
[[Z31/differentialinfo|Differentials]]and[[Z31/Driveshaftinfo php|Driveshafts]]can be found by clicking the links. - Whenever you take a part out, reinsert the retaining bolts whenever possible so you know where everything goes during reassembly.
* If you have a friend who is willing to help, get them. The job is much easier and faster with two sets of muscles in place.

=== Parts You Need ===

Many parts can be salvaged from a junkyard, but some should be purchased new for safety and reliability.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/trannyswapparts.jpg

==== Essential Tools & Supplies ====

| Item | Notes |
|---|---|
| Basic tool set | Wrenches, sockets, large wrenches |
| Flare nut wrench | For brake/clutch lines |
| Transmission fluid | Correct type for Z31 manual |
| Brake fluid | For clutch hydraulics |
| Clutch alignment tool | Required for install |
| Transmission jack | Rentable, safer than floor jack |
| Jack stands | Raise car safely |
| FSM pages / fiche | Critical reference |
| Transmission rear oil seal | New recommended |
| Engine rear oil seal | Replace while accessible |
| Moly grease | For seal installation |
| PB Blaster or WD-40 | For rusted bolts |
| Anti-seize compound | Thread treatment |
| Thread locker (medium) | Torque-critical bolts |

==== Parts from Donor 5-Speed Z31 ====

| Component | Notes |
|---|---|
| 5-speed Transmission (complete) | Include all switches, shifter, bolts |
| Dust plates (2) | Attach to engine/trans |
| 5-spd driveshaft | Must match transmission and Differential |
| Flywheel + bolts | Check wear; resurface or replace |
| Speedometer cable | Depends on analog/digital dash |
| Speedometer pinion O-ring | Replace with new |
| Transmission mount & crossmember | Inspect rubber |
| Clutch + brake pedal assemblies | Swap both |
| Clutch master & slave cylinders | Buy new |
| Clutch dampener & hydraulic line | From donor |
| Front down pipe (5spd) | Donor pipe preferred fit |
| 5-spd ECCS (ECU) | Ensure proper engine map though you can use the Automatic ECU with the Manual transmission the idle may need adjusted |
| Clutch pressure plate | Buy new preferred |
| Clutch pilot bushing | Press in new |
| Throw-out bearing | New recommended |
| Misc. bolts, clips, washers | Take everything from donor |

=== Before you start ===

If you are using a parts car Flywheel, You should Have a shop resurface the flywheel if needed.

You will also want to Verify all needed parts and supplies before you get started. Either way you will likely need to get other items that you either forgot to get or lost/broke while doing the swap.

You should also Clean the 5-spd unit as best as you can.

* Drain all oil out of the transmission.
* Replace the rear transmission oil seal.
* Replace the throw-out bearing.
* Apply grease to the clutch fork.
* Inspect the rubber boot; replace if worn or damaged.
* Check neutral and reverse light switch wires for damage; replace switches if wires are frayed.
* Inspect the transmission mount and cross member. If the rubber is cracked or worn, replace both.

=== Begin Work ===

The first thing to do is to Disconnect the battery and move it out of the way. You will need this to access wiring later on.

=== Take out the center console ===

See fiche section 7E12: or Section 11 Sub Section 21 of the Haynes manual.

There are a couple of bolts behind the "300ZX" plate on the center console and a few more in the console box.

=== Take out the A/T shifter ===

See fiche section 4J08:

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/Shifter2.jpg

Remove the 2 screws on the back of the shifter

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/Shifter3.jpg

Now remove the 3 screws holding the cover to the shifter plate

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/Shifter4.jpg

Disconnect the two harnesses that are sometimes deep into the driver side Transmission well carpet.

You'll also need to disconnect the shift link mechanism from under the car. I did this later when I jacked up the car.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/Shifter5.jpg

=== Install the brake pedal ===

I started with the most difficult step - replacing the brake pedal ([see fiche Section 4L05](4L05.html)).

* Disassemble your A/T brake pedal only from it's mounting by removing Brake Booster rod and the piviot Pin from the assembly
* Disassemble the 5-spd pedal from its plate (keep spring/shaft)
* Start putting the pedal in. A royal PITA to align the pedal shaft while trying to maintain the spring in position in order to bolt her in place -you'll see what I mean when you get there. PATIENCE, A LOT OF IT, and it'll eventually get in. I used a rope to pull the spring compressed, then with a guide pin at the other end of the bore for the brake pedal shaft (item #46582), I was able to get it in. Torque tightening bolt to 22-30ft-lb

=== Install the clutch pedal assembly ===

The clutch pedal assembly includes the pedal itself, its mounting bracket and the clutch master cylinder.

* If using the old master cylinder, make sure to clean it thoroughly.
* Take out the windshield washer fluid reservoir and on the firewall you'll see a plate bolted where the clutch pedal shaft will go through.
https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/Clutch-master-locastion.jpg

* Take that plate out
* Install the clutch pedal and master cylinder
* Torques: Clutch master cylinder securing plate: 5.8-8.7ft-lb; Clutch pedal push rod: 5.8-8.0ft-lb; Clutch pedal lock nut:12-16ft-lb.
* Don't install the clutch hydraulic line at this point as there is not enough room yet.

=== Automatic Transmission Removal ===

=== Geting the Car Preped ===

Raise the car up as high and as safely as possible and USE JACK STANDS to support the car. You have to raise it high otherwise the Transmission dip stick tube will not clear frame when time comes to remove transmission.

From here on, we'll start taking out bolts. You will break some (especially those in the exhaust area) so be prepared to purchase new ones.
Disconnect the drive shaft at the differential side. Rotate the wheels to access all bolts easily.
'''NOTICE!''' Never work under car without properly securing jack stands under the vehicle.
=== Transmission Preparation & Exhaust Removal ===

=== Preparation Steps ===

=== Exhaust Component Removal ===

'''Tip:''' Spray all exhaust bolts with solvent (PB Blaster, WD-40, etc.) and let soak overnight. These bolts often break, so prep well!

=== Remove Drive Shaft & Transmission ===

=== Replacing Rear Oil Seal, Flywheel, and Clutch Assembly ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/Flywheel.jpg

Once the A/T is removed, you'll see a flex plate and a steel ring where the converter sat. Removing this ring is the next challenge (second only to the brake pedal). Options:

* Use a puller (AutoZone or Harbor Freight rent them)
* Use a wrench to pop it loose
* Socket + grease pressure method
* A blind side puller also works well

* Remove the small circular drive plate and flex plate.
* Replace the rear oil seal on the engine. This is likely your only opportunity—don’t skip it.
* Install the clutch hydraulic tube, slave cylinder, and damper. Use a flare nut wrench and follow torque specs precisely.
-
'''Torque Specs:'''- Damper bolts: 5.8–8.0 ft-lb
* Slave cylinder bolts: 22–30 ft-lb

* Press the brass pilot bushing gently into place. Leave clearance to allow future removal; don’t bottom it out.
-
Insert the dust plates:
* Small one first (toward engine)
* Full one next
* Align with dowel pins; can be reinserted later if needed

* Install the resurfaced 5-speed flywheel. Bolt the Flywheel to the crankshaft using blue Lock-tight on the bolts (Torque: 72–80 ft-lb).
-
Bolt the clutch plate assembly in this order:
* Clutch pressure plate (next to flywheel)
* Clutch disk
* Use a clutch alignment tool for accuracy
* Torque the flywheel bolts: 16–22 ft-lb again with blue Lock-tight on them

=== Installing 5-Speed Transmission ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/ManualTransjack.jpg

You've cleaned and prepped the 5-speed transmission. Place it on the transmission jack and slide it under the car. Follow these steps carefully:

* Align the transmission input shaft to the driveshaft. It may connect easily or take hours. Be patient and do not force it.
-
Once aligned, bolt the transmission to the engine.
* Bolts below the starter:
'''22–29 ft-lb''' - Top bolts:
'''29–30 ft-lb''' - Don't forget to reinstall dust plates and follow earlier alignment tips

* Bolts below the starter:
-
While the jacks are still supporting the engine and transmission, install the crossmember and transmission bushing.
Torque:
'''33–44 ft-lb'''(based on engine mount specs) - Reconnect the oil temperature sensor harness.
* Reinstall the starter and reconnect the negative battery terminal.
* Reinstall the driveshaft using correct torque specifications.
* Reinstall the exhaust components. Note: If using a turbo front tube, modify heat shield with a wooden mallet to clear the mount.
* Install the original speedometer pinion with a new O-ring.
* Torque the 5-speed driveshaft to
'''29–33 ft-lb'''. -
Final exhaust torque specs:
* Front tube to engine:
'''34–45 ft-lb''' - Front tube to catalytic converter:
'''23–32 ft-lb''' - Cat to mid tube:
'''31–42 ft-lb'''

* Front tube to engine:
-
Adjust the emergency brake.
Torque:
'''2.3–3.2 ft-lb'''. Aim for 8–10 notches before full engagement.

=== Fill Her Up With Oil ===

There are several ways to fill the transmission with oil. One common method is threading a plastic tube from the engine bay to the transmission oil inlet, then pouring in:
'''5-1/8 qt of Redline MT-90 synthetic''' (or '''4-1/4 qt for N/A'''). You'll know it's full when oil starts to drip out of the fill port.

-
Fill the clutch master cylinder with
'''DOT-3 brake fluid'''and bleed the system. Start with the damper, then the slave cylinder. A friend helps a lot here! - Adjust free play in the brake and clutch pedals as precisely as possible.

=== Electronics ===

Now that the hard part is done, wiring is next:

* Reinstall the front tires.
* Don’t lower the car just yet—you may need to go underneath again.
* You'll need to work with the
'''inhibitor switch'''(8-pin connector) from the transmission that leads into the battery area. You should've disconnected and noted this earlier.

==== Refer to the following for 1987–1989 cars only: ====

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Auto2manualswap/87-89AUTOSWAPWIRES.png

* Looking at the inhibitor switch
'''from the transmission side'''(not engine side). - To enable starting, jump the
`Black/Blue (B/BL)`

wire with the`Black/Red (B/R)`

wire. - For clutch-start and cruise control functionality, make this jump at the clutch switch. You may need a universal clutch switch.
* For reverse lights, connect the blue wire from the reverse light switch to the
`B/W`

wire and the black wire (ground) to the`B/R`

wire on the inhibitor switch.

==== Refer to the following for 1985–1986 cars only: ====

* Find the 8-pin connector near the battery. You only need:
`Red/Black`

,`Black/Yellow`

, and`Black/White`

. - Ground the
`Black/Yellow`

wire by connecting it to`Red/Black`

. Note: grounding this disables cruise control unless routed through the neutral switch. - To preserve cruise and proper start logic, connect both to the neutral switch on the 5-speed transmission.
* For reverse lights, connect
`B/R`

and`B/W`

wires to the reverse switch. - Hook up the clutch pedal’s switch to the unused clutch harness to ensure cruise disengagement works properly. Check nylon bumpers!
* If no neutral switch: install a hidden switch in the center console (e.g. a turbo washer switch) and manually toggle to start. Bonus: theft deterrent!

==== Refer to the following for 1984 cars only: ====

For 1984T models with the 4N71B automatic and a 4-pin inhibitor switch:

With the locking tab on top and wires facing away from you:

Top-left: Pin 1

Bottom-left: Pin 2

Top-right: Pin 3

Bottom-right: Pin 4

* Connect pins 1 and 2 to the
'''neutral switch'''. - Connect pins 3 and 4 to the
'''reverse switch'''.

=== Start Your Engine ===

* Congratulations! You did it. Lower the car carefully and fire up the engine. You might hear some unfamiliar sounds—use your instincts to distinguish between normal break-in noise and real issues.
* Visit your trusted mechanic for final pedal adjustments and proper clutch bleeding.
* A slight whine when releasing the clutch at first is normal. Allow some time for the clutch hardware to wear in.

=== Required Adjustments ===

You'll probably notice that your idle is approximately 1000 rpm higher!!! It needs to be adjusted if you want to pass emissions. For the N/A cars, use the idle adjusting screw by the throttle body. For the turbo, you'll need the 5-spd ECCS for idle adjustment.

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/Z32brakeupgrade

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 to Z32 Front Brake Swap|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Z32brakeupgrade.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Z32brakeupgrade.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/title.jpg

You can increase the stopping power of your front brakes by using the front rotors and calipers from the later 1990-1996 300zx.

== Tools Needed ==

* Jack
* Jackstands
* Line Wrench
* Ratchet
* 17mm Socket
* Cutoff wheel or Hacksaw
* Punch
* Hammer
* Breaker Bar
* 30mm Axle nut socket

== Parts used for install ==

* 1990 26mm Non turbo front calipers

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/Brake%20Upgrade%20Parts%20004.jpg

* 1987 - 1989 Turbo front Hubs
* 1990 - 280mm x 26mm Front rotors
* 0.170" Spacer

== Installation ==

* Jack the front of the car up and secure on jackstands.
* Remove the front wheels.
* Remove brake caliper and line from the car.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/old%20setup.jpg

* On models other than 87+ turbo, Remove the front hub assembly and replace with the 87+ turbo front hub.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/Brake%20Upgrade%20Parts%20006.jpg

* The Z32 Caliper is much longer than the Z31 caliper. By Cutting an inch or so off the dust shield the caliper will now fit without rubbing.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/Dust%20sheild%20modification.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/Dust%20sheild%20clearance1.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/Dust%20sheild%20clearance%202.jpg

* Install the Z32 Front Rotor by slipping it on the wheel studs.
* Next install the Spacer so the Caliper will be centered.
* Now to modify the caliper so the Z31 Brake lines will work.
* First separate the two halfs of the caliper.
* Then remove the piston in front of the Fluid inlet.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/brakeline%20fitting%20hole.jpg

* Once piston is removed this is what youll see.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/inside%20caliper.jpg

* Just take a punch or similar and tap the orifice out from inside out.
* I found it nessassary to stick a phillips in the front of the inlet and turn the orifice to "break"it loose.
* This is what you are removing.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Brakes/Z32%20upgrade/Restrictor.jpg

* Install the caliper and
[[Z31/Brakebleeding|bleed the brakes]]. - Install the wheels and lower the car.

== Other Information on this swap ==

This swap is known to work with the 87-89 turbo and non turbo wheels. 1986 Non turbo wheels rub the caliper slightly at the bottom face caused by the hub section of the wheel. At this time it is unknown if the 84-85 Turbo and non turbo and the 1986 turbo wheels will work without rubbing the new caliper.

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/Wseriesmain php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 W-series Engine (or W-series Components)|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Wseriesmain.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Wseriesmain.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 W-series Engine (or W-series Components) ==

In late 1987, Nissan changed the design of the VG30 engine, slightly, to provide a decrease in noise levels and an increase in power output. There is a lot of confusion as to what changes were actually made. This is a comprehensive listing of changes that were made to the VG30 engine.

=== Changes to the VG30 Engine (to create the W-series engine) ===

The major engine components that have been changed to create the "W" engine are shown below. In addition, a summary of changes is provided for each component.

=== W Series Block Information ===

Six new water galleries were added at the exhaust side of the cylinders. NOTE: The "W" engine bare block will NOT be stamped with a "W". Check for additional water galleries to identify a modified bare block.

In addition, the oil pan bolt holes have been altered in the modified cylinder block. The holes have been chamfered to allow usage of a liquid oil pan gasket. These chamfered bolt holes are also helpful in identifying the modified bare block.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges1.png

=== W- series Crankshaft, Pulley, Bolt & Washer Differences ===

On the W-series motors, the crankshaft front tip was lengthened by 18.7 mm (0.736 in.) (see illustration '''*1''').
The crankshaft pulley width was also increased by 13.6 mm (0.535 in.) (see '''*2''').

The pulley bolt was changed from M12 to M14, and the washer inner and outer diameters were increased. (See illustration.)

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges4.png

You can use a non W-series pulley on the W-series crank, but a spacer must be used.
[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Crankpulley/adapter1.jpg Nissan part # 12308-V5321]
was designed just for this purpose.

=== W-series Cylinder Head and Cylinder Head gasket Differences ===

On the new W-series motors, three (3) new water galleries were added to each cylinder head (at the exhaust side). These match the new galleries in the block. (see below)

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges5.png

=== Cylinder Head Gasket ===

Three new holes were added to the gasket on the exhaust side, and the six holes in the intake side of the gasket were decreased in size.

The tab shape can be used to identify the modified gasket from the non-modified gasket. (See illustration below.)

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges6.png

=== W-series Connecting Rod Differences ===

The modified connecting rod has been increased in weight, along with an increase in small end internal bore. It can be identified by a 'W' stamped in the side of the rod shaft as shown in the illustration below. NOTE: A "W" connecting rod requires a "W" piston, new style Fully Floating wrist pin, and modified crankshaft.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Wserieschanges3.jpg

=== W-series Piston and Piston Pin Differences ===

In the W-series motors, the piston and piston pin have been changed to a full-floating type, with two snap rings to locate the piston pin. The piston pin outer diameter has also been decreased. The modified piston can be identified by a 'W' mark on the piston skirt (see image below). NOTE: A "W" piston requires a modified connecting rod, wrist pin, and piston rings.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/Wserieschanges2.jpg

=== Interchange ===

In certain combinations, some MODIFIED engine components can be installed on NON-MODIFIED VG30 ENGINES (production prior to April, 1987) as shown in the following chart. However, NON-MODIFIED ENGINE COMPONENTS CANNOT BE INSTALLED ON MODIFIED VG30 ENGINES (production starting April, 1987).

Use the chart below to determine proper component combinations.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges7.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges8.png

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Engine/w-series/Wserieschanges9.png

* Refer to Parts Microfiche for complete application information.
-
Modified short engine can be used in place of non-modified short engine in conjunction with the cylinder head/head gasket combinations shown as acceptable in chart on page 4/6.
Also, the crank pulley must be changed as indicated below:
* Truck, Pathfinder, 200SX, Maxima, and 300ZX (except 300ZX prior to 9/86 production), must use the modified crankshaft pulley, bolt and washer shown in the chart on page 6/6.
-
'''300ZX Non-Turbo prior to 9/86 production'''requires crankshaft pulley (P/N 12303-12G01), bolt (P/N 12309-16V00) and washer (P/N 12308-77A00). -
'''300ZX Turbo prior to 9/86 production'''requires crankshaft pulley (P/N 12303 5320), spacer (P/N 12308-V5321), bolt (P/N 12309-16V00) and washer (P/N 12308-77A00).

* Modified parts can be used in place of non-modified parts in combinations shown as acceptable in chart on page 4/6.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Write up by: Redare

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/Windowtrim php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 300zx Refinishing Painted Window Trim|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Windowtrim.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Windowtrim.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 300zx Refinishing Painted Window Trim ==

The big problem with the blacked-out trim on the turbo models is that, after many years of service, the original coating has a tendency to chip or flake off, showing the stainless steel below. Although this doesn't affect the function of the vehicle, it can really hurt the appearance.

As part of reassembly, I am refinishing the window trim on the '84.

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Raredare1/trim/newquarterwindow1.jpg

''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Process ===

* Remove the trim from the vehicle (this is not absolutely necessary, but will definitely improve the quality of the job). Wet sand the original finish with 320 grit wet-or-dry paper to smooth the paint edges. Apply an adhesion promoter to the freshly sanded surface. Both etching primer and Bond Aid work, but Bond Aid is better and doesn’t leave a green color behind if scratched.
-
Allow fifteen minutes for the promoter to cure. Apply a single coat of Duplicolor’s Trim paint (this closely matches the original sheen and color). Let this coat cure 20 minutes, then apply a second, slightly heavier coat to achieve the factory texture.

-
Let the trim cure overnight in at least 70°F before installing. When replacing, use silicone sealant on the screw threads to prevent rust/corrosion. The finished trim should look like this:

* To prevent flaking damage, avoid spraying the trim with high-pressure water. If flaking occurs, repeat this process to restore the appearance. If it becomes a big problem, you can use automotive grade black vinyl as an alternative.

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Write up by: Redare

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/Windowseals php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Resealing Quarter Windows and Tail Lamps|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Windowseals.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Windowseals.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Resealing Quarter Windows and Tail Lamps ==

A major cause of rust in the hatch area of many 300zx's is leaky quarter windows and taillamps. The telltale sign of seal failure in these areas is water and or rust under the hatch carpeting, namely in the spare tire well and under the tool kit. This is the approach I used to remedy these leaks.
''WARNING'' - Do this modification at your own risk. We Are not responsable for any issues of your own doing.

=== Items Needed ===

=== Parts & Tools Needed ===

* 2x 3/8" Butyl Ribbon Sealant
* ZEP ZUCIT32CA 32 Oz Degreaser Citrus Scent
* Plastic Scrapers
* Heat Gun
* Gloves (Rubber and Padded)
* #2 Phillips Screw Driver
* 10mm Socket and ratchet
* Trim Clip Removal tool

=== Checking for leaks ===

To verify that either the quarter windows or the taillamps are the culprit, remove all rear interior plastics and lay in the back of the hatch area. Have someone spray the quarter windows and taillamps, near their top surfaces. If you observe any water leaking into the car, mop it up and replace the failed seal.

=== Removing the Windows ===

* Park the car in direct sunlight until it is hot to the touch. This softens the butyl rope sealant.
* Remove the upper plastic interior hatch trim (quarter window trim). Be careful, as the top clips like to break.
* Locate the two nuts securing the quarter windows in place. Use a 10 mm wrench to remove the nuts.
* Gently push out on the window from inside to break the butyl seal. From outside, carefully pull the window away from the car and set it aside.
* Use mineral spirits to remove the butyl sealant from the quarter panel and quarter window.

==== Removing Taillamps ====

* Remove the rear trim plastic and locate the taillamp mounting nuts.
* Remove these nuts and carefully push the taillamp outward. Each taillamp is sealed in the same manner as the quarter windows.
* Carefully clean all butyl from the taillamps and chassis using mineral spirits.

![Tail lamp removal](images/Raredare1/Sealing%20windows/Taillights.png)

Note: If you use a scraper to help remove the butyl, be careful not to scratch the surface. Scratches will lead to rust and eventually, to leaks.

=== Replacement ===

-
Go to your local auto parts store and purchase 2 packages of Butyl Ribbon Sealant.

-
Carefully measure the amount of butyl rope needed and cut it to length. Press it into the quarter window channel on the car and knead the ends together to form a continuous bead.

-
Reinstall the window and gently tighten the nuts. Do not overtighten the nuts as you could damage the trim pieces.

* Taillamp resealing should be done in the same manner as the quarter windows.

==== Video of the Process ====

Provided By:

[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9aHaXFAtuKKo91fhesQi7A Turbocharged Creations]## Sources Used

[[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
* Write up by: Redare
* Video By: Turbocharged Creations

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Z31/Wheels php

2026-05-17T01:59:27Z

XenonzcarImporter: Rewrite 1 archive URL(s) to internal wikilinks

{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Wheel Specifications|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Wheels.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/Wheels.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}

== Z31 Wheel Specifications ==

The Z31 was offered with many different size and designed wheels through out the years. Here I will try to show the differences

=== Basic Wheel Information ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/fitment.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/LUGPATTERN.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/offset.jpg

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/identify.jpg

=== Stock Wheel Specifications ===

| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| 4 Lug Bolt Pattern | 4x4.5" (4x114.3mm) |
| 5 Lug Bolt Pattern | 5x4.5" (5x114.3mm) |
| Stud Size | M12 x 1.25 |
| Center Bore | 66.1mm |

=== Stock Tire Size ===

| Wheel Size | Factory Tire Size |
|---|---|
| 15x6.5 | 215/60R15 |
| 16x7.0 | 225/50R16 |

=== How to read your tire size ===

https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/Wheels/tire.jpg

=== Wheel Chart ===

The 300zx from 1984-1989 came with 12 different wheel configurations. The following chart details what models got what wheels.

| Year & Model | Part Number | Wheel Specifications | Lug Nut Type | Offset | Image |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1984 Non Turbo | 40300-04P25 | 6.5x15" 4 lug | Shank style 12mmx1.25 | +30mm | |
| 1984 Turbo | 40300-04P27 | 6.5x15" 5 lug | Shank style 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1984 50th AE Turbo | 40300-05P25 | 7.0x16" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +20mm |
| 1985 Non Turbo | 40300-04P25 | 6.5x15" 4 lug | Shank style 12mmx1.25 | +30mm | |
| 1985 Turbo | 40300-04P27 | 6.5x15" 5 lug | Shank style 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1986 Non Turbo | 40300-19P25 | 6.5x15" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +10mm |
| 1986 Turbo | 40300-19P27 | 7.0x16" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +20mm |
| 1987 Non Turbo | 40300-21P85 | 6.5x15" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +20mm | |
| 1987 Turbo | 40300-21P26 | 7.0x16" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1988 Non Turbo | 40300-21P27 | 6.5x15" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +20mm | |
| 1988 Turbo | 40300-21P87 | 7.0x16" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1988 Turbo SS | 40300-26P25 | 7.0x16" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1989 Non Turbo | 40300-21P27 | 6.5x15" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +20mm | |
| 1989 Turbo | 40300-21P87 | 7.0x16" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1984-1985 Turbo Euro Spec | 40300-07P00 | 7.0x16" | Shank style 12mmx1.25 | +30mm |
| 1984-1989 SF Steel | 40300-01P00 | 5.5x14" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +30mm | N/A |
| 1987-1989 Winter Steel | 40300-21P10 | 6x15" | Acorn 12mmx1.25 | +30mm | N/A |
| 1984-1989 Steel Wheel Cover | 40315-01P00 | Wheel Cover Only | N/A |

=== Sources Used ===

[[Z31/z31ownersmanuals php|1984-1989 Nissan Owners manuals]]
* Nissan Z31 Parts Fiche Sections (4G12, 4K12, 4M12, 4N12)

[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]